Restricted Access
Bearacleave Wood is owned by the National Trust and contains some fantastic quality bouldering with something for everyone. Access problems have arisen recently at this and other bouldering areas on Dartmoor due mainly to excessive cleaning of boulders, but also some other issues. Please follow the Respect the Rock code as well as the following site specific access code of conduct:
-
No new development - there are in excess of 700 exisiting lines across Bovey Woods as a whole and further development would mean more cleaning and removal of important mosses and lichens. This is a real concern to the landowners and continued development and new cleaning could result in loss of access.
-
Keep cleaning to a minimum. A completely clean boulder might look good to a climber, but to the landowner it looks a lot like environmental damage. Keep individual holds clean, don't strip entire faces of vegetation.
-
Chalk really stands out in the environment, so remove as much as possible from the rock before leaving a problem.
-
Please don't use this area for lantern sessions (night bouldering) - this has been a contributing factor in the developing access concerns of the landowner.
-
Take your litter home with you as well as any other litter in the area. This includes things like pieces of finger tape which can be easily forgotten.
Rockfax Description
The second half of the classic traverse Bend It Like Beckham. Start from a blocky jug on the arete, traverse left across blocky holds to finish up the left side of the short left arete. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Right-to-left traverse from the arête to top out around left-hand arête (the steep section of Bend it Like Beckham). Make sure you round the far arete to finish!
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| jake7 | 12 Sep, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Flat low hold towards the end is also wobbly | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Flat low hold towards the end is also wobbly |
||||
| jake7 | 21 Jul, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: As previously mentioned jug very wobbly - probably should try and avoid as the problem is easily done without | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: As previously mentioned jug very wobbly - probably should try and avoid as the problem is easily done without |
||||
| broc | 8 Jul, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Large wobbly jug mid way along traverse. Will be a shock for someone when it detaches! The hold is easily avoided and when it comes off the problem won't be affected too much. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Large wobbly jug mid way along traverse. Will be a shock for someone when it detaches! The hold is easily avoided and when it comes off the problem won't be affected too much. |
||||
Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Bovey Woods
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Gully Wall Original
Grade: f6A ***
(Chudleigh Rocks - South Face)