Rockfax Description
A reasonable route on pockety rock, although tricky for shorties. Start just down from the high point of the grass rake at a step. Climb up to a small tree, thread. Move diagonally up rightwards to another thread, before climbing the slab direct to the overlap. Move over this to easier climbing above. © Rockfax

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List.

Hidden 13/Jul/17 Lead O/S
Rollo 17/Aug/16 2nd dog

Seconded Michael, got to the jug but had to rest!

mikeyjbs 17/Aug/16 Lead dog
with Rollo
Adam Booth 17/Aug/16 2nd O/S
Ed Booth 16/Aug/16 Lead rpt
Misha 23/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Decent route, wouldn't seek this out but well worth doing if in the area. Threads are ok but could do with replacing - didn't have any tat unfortunately. Short and sharp - probably only one 6a move but a fair bit of 5c. I'd say Peak E3 6a! No chalk on this except at the start made it feel quite adventurous! Set up an ab off the ledge to strip so Eve could lead as well, then seconded it to get her gear out as needed to top out for her to dismantle the belay on the ledge.

with Eve
eel 23/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Misha
Dave Lyon 07/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with Brian Seery
Hidden ??/2016 -
wi11 09/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Derw
Hidden 09/Aug/14 Lead β
Ed morris 28/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Jerry Handren
Russell Blackaller 24/Jul/14 Lead dog

Too hard for a warm up. Two rests after the 2nd thread, not to mention the tree bar.

with Justin
AndrewJamesCherry 06/Jul/14 Lead O/S

A steep wet start and then a good long rest by the tree - I tend to agree with the general consensus of E3/4 assuming the threads are good - but are they? Perhaps only E5 if you were placing the threads yourself on lead.

shed_hed 06/Jul/14 2nd rpt

Didn't get as pumped this time.

wolf.leeb 02/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Fun clip up..

with nic
mynyddresident 02/Jul/14 2nd rpt
with wolf
AlexD 29/Jun/14 Lead dnf

got too pumped. only just made it seconding.

with Ed
Ed Babs 29/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Gotta trust those threads, but I thought this was E3?

with AlexD
AlexD 29/Jun/14 2nd
with Ed
Hidden 23/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Rachel Slater 23/Jun/14 Lead β

Felt about the same grade as Weasels, just a different style of climbing.

with Anna Gilyeat
Hidden 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S
nathanlee 20/Jun/14 Lead

funny story

wi11 19/Jun/14 Lead dnf
with Will S
Rob Pitt 17/May/14 2nd
with Nick B
oliverpcain ??/2014 Lead O/S
tim newton 03/Sep/13 2nd O/S
with gwen lancashire
Duncan Campbell 26/Jul/13 2nd

More like hard E3?? hard moves protected by threads?

The old James turnbull 25/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with duncan
Hidden 22/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Justin T 20/Jul/13 Lead O/S

E4 in Ground Up, didn't feel E5.

dan gibson 17/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with sam read
dswansonlow 15/Jul/13 2nd rpt
shed_hed 15/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Felt steep and like a scary sport route to me. Didn't hang around too long before committing which I'm glad of. But even so, I've not done much steep stuff recently so still got a bit pumped. Not E5.

redjerry 13/Jul/13 TR O/S
Hidden 12/Jul/13 Lead O/S
dswansonlow 12/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Oli
Hidden 11/Jul/13 Lead RP
ksjs 10/Jul/13 Lead β

I replaced the threads today. Either a retro flash or ground up with 1 fall (the fall taking place 3 years ago). I really enjoyed this but it isn't even E4 let alone E5 - it's a few moves between threads (Fr 6b/+). For me there is no way this is harder than Stroll On, Foil or Pulsar for example all of which are E3. Worth taking a medium cam (not essential) on this for the break where the wall becomes a slab. There's an abseil station up and right from where you top out.

with Rich
smallerrich 04/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Started off what became a team smash of a fairly bouldery trad route!

LRob ??/2013 Lead O/S
Ewan Russell 28/May/12 Lead dnf

clipped second thread and was pumped out of my mind. Couldnt get the sapling out of mind was convinced was going to land in it.

with Connor
Hidden 28/May/12 Lead β
willoates 24/May/12 Lead β

flashed on Jo's gear, would have been able to find and place it all. quite a good route with some proper pulling involved. not E5

soph 24/May/12 Lead O/S
with Dave Evans
mynyddresident 13/Jul/11 Lead β

Seconded a while ago, good moves. E3 assuming the threads are good?

with Dan ukc
dan ely 13/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with nick
Ed Booth 04/May/11 Lead O/S
with Marshy, Ben Alsford
al99 30/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Ben Jones
lukehodson 30/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Not E5. E3 or E4 depending on how good the threads are? Really enjoyed this nonetheless

with Ben Jones
Owain Llewelyn 19/Apr/11 Lead
with Gareth E
Hidden ??/2011 -
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden 27/Jun/10 Lead O/S
pete johnson 27/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Lun
ewen 24/Jun/10 2nd
with neil stabbs
Hidden 20/Jun/10 Lead O/S
barni 15/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Nic cot
mynyddresident 15/Jun/10 2nd
nige ?/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with mark hounslea
Hidden 28/May/10 Lead O/S
farmus21 28/May/10 Lead

Great climb, interesting features. Had a fanny wobble at the 2nd thread. Gets easier with height.

with Ben Allsford
ksjs 24/May/10 Lead dnf

cheeky! 5th route of the day so bit tired, also bit sweaty in evening sun and slightly algae-tainted. those are probably all just excuses: i thought this was going to be 'connect the jugs' climbing but it isnt and i was caught out. up and down about 5 times before thoughts of the sapling/tree, increasing pump and the wrong approach got the better of me. fell onto the 1st thread from just below 2nd and ended up quite far down. not sure how this can be E4 given the threads, style and length but i didnt do it so cant really comment. never E5 though. next time...

with pete
farmus21 24/May/10 2nd

Really cool pocket pulling, though not as positive as I expected. Quite steep.

Rich Kirby 23/May/10 Lead O/S

No way E5. Good.

with Ewan
Luke Brooks 23/May/10 Lead O/S
with John Orr
halfmanhalfbiscuit ?/May/10 Lead O/S

E3 6a (hard)

zero six ?/May/10 Lead O/S
miastacey 31/May/09 2nd
with Bob Smith
mattyork2 30/May/09 2nd dog

Horrible route and too hard for me.

with Andy Reeve and Robin
Adam Lincoln ??/2009 Lead O/S
Steve Crowe 17/Apr/03 Lead O/S
with KM
sadams 05/Jun/98 Lead O/S
with Andy Bowie
duncan 09/Aug/97 2nd
with Hugo Glover
Hidden ??/1986 Lead O/S
2 users have this on their wishlist
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 27
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 28
Votes cast 26
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set