A superb route in a stunning setting. The start is somewhat of a "waker-upper" hand traverse (an initial belay is advisable) but a confident approach is quickly rewarded. Can be done in two pitches or three - either way be sure to back up the belay pegs with natural gear.

At the top there is a belay peg (probably intended for CTA etc) hidden down a rock step on the right (well back) as well as the more obvious gear.

Probably the best descent (unless you have a penchant for vertical grass scrambling where a slip would be fatal) is to ab off the iron stake just past said peg (check it first and take great care as it would be easy to to accidentally flick the rope off it at the start) which takes you down into the basin of LQP.

Ticklists

West Country Climbs

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Lee_Meaden 14 Jun AltLd O/S Lead P2
Lead P2
kennythescot 14 Jun AltLd O/S
96izzi 28 May 2nd
NinaR 22 Apr AltLd O/S Led P2.
Led P2.
Mike Roger ?? -
PaulTanton 28 Oct, 2018 Lead O/S
with Bruce Woodley
with Bruce Woodley
Flavio 27 Oct, 2018 AltLd O/S
JendeHoxar 27 Oct, 2018 AltLd O/S
stuartf 7 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S Great route. Bold steep start. Top crack is outstanding
Great route. Bold steep start. Top crack is outstanding
timreynolds 7 Sep, 2016 2nd
with stuartf
with stuartf
Hidden 31 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
Stroppy 28 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S Cracking line, proper adventure
Cracking line, proper adventure
Hidden 28 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
JackM92 31 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S found it pretty tough, more pumped than on E2's at Sharpnose...defo give this E1, it's exposed and committing.
with Nick Nixon
found it pretty tough, more pumped than on E2's at Sharpnose...defo give this E1, it's exposed and committing.
with Nick Nixon
Hidden 16 Jul, 2016 2nd
AlexD 18 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Ed Babs
with Ed Babs
Ed Babs 18 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S P2
with AlexD
P2
with AlexD
Phil79 29 Mar, 2016 AltLd O/S Intimidating but great. Found top overhanging corner hard work.
Intimidating but great. Found top overhanging corner hard work.
Samuel Wainwright 8 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S Easily as good as Moonraker! http://wainwrightclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2015/08/sacrosanct.html
Easily as good as Moonraker! http://wainwrightclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2015/08/sacrosanct.html
Hidden 8 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden 7 Dec, 2014 AltLd O/S
nickstephens 6 Dec, 2014 AltLd O/S
with Jay Jackson
with Jay Jackson
mick1jones 31 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S Led first pitch - scary 'til I worked out moves
with Rich Rogers
Led first pitch - scary 'til I worked out moves
with Rich Rogers
NancyJones 30 Aug, 2014 AltLd dog
Russell Blackaller 5 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S Really good! 1st pitch probably warrants E1. I lead second pitch. Ace route.
Really good! 1st pitch probably warrants E1. I lead second pitch. Ace route.
Mr Tickle 5 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S Led P1.
Led P1.
alice fuller 3 May, 2014 AltLd O/S I led the top pitch.
I led the top pitch.
msoldn 1 Mar, 2014 AltLd O/S bit committing at start, but the jugs are huge
with Mark
bit committing at start, but the jugs are huge
with Mark
Avon Man 1 Mar, 2014 AltLd rpt Start of P1 is quite dangerous if you traverse too high.
with msoldn
Start of P1 is quite dangerous if you traverse too high.
with msoldn
Hidden 10 Nov, 2013 AltLd O/S
sarpedon 14 Sep, 2013 AltLd O/S
Sophie Nunn 14 Sep, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Sarp
with Sarp
Hidden 26 Jul, 2013 2nd
Hidden 26 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
Dale Turrell 2 Feb, 2013 AltLd O/S Led 2nd pitch.
Led 2nd pitch.
Bristoldave 2 Feb, 2013 AltLd O/S Led p1
Led p1
Grabtheslab ??, 2013 -
JeromeT 16 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S Lead Pitch Two.
with Ian
Lead Pitch Two.
with Ian
burto 16 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S
with jerome
with jerome
bigrob 31 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S me 1 mike 2
with Mike W
me 1 mike 2
with Mike W
Graham Atkins 10 Dec, 2011 Lead
adam cooper*super* 14 May, 2011 Lead rpt
with Jack_F
with Jack_F
Jack_F 14 May, 2011 AltLd O/S Twas good
Twas good
Hidden 22 Apr, 2011 AltLd
Hidden 8 Mar, 2011 AltLd O/S
twright180 25 Sep, 2010 AltLd O/S
solenostomus 25 Sep, 2010 AltLd
James Mitchelmore 17 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S
Johnny Baker 6 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S A steep climb that made the forearms bulge
with Sam Richards
A steep climb that made the forearms bulge
with Sam Richards
Hidden ?Jul, 2010 Lead O/S
adam cooper*super* 2 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S brill, i lead 2nd pitch really nice climbing, BUT did pull off a bit of rock about nearly 2 foot long and fairly hefty aswell!
with mike waller
brill, i lead 2nd pitch really nice climbing, BUT did pull off a bit of rock about nearly 2 foot long and fairly hefty aswell!
with mike waller
Marti999 10 Mar, 2010 AltLd O/S
ChrisBrooke 10 Mar, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Marti Hallet
with Marti Hallet
Reeges 15 Nov, 2008 Lead O/S Quality route! Though a bit wet up the wide crack on the 1st pitch. Bit of advice; the first pitch traverses the lower jug rail not the crack above with the pegs.
Quality route! Though a bit wet up the wide crack on the 1st pitch. Bit of advice; the first pitch traverses the lower jug rail not the crack above with the pegs.
Hidden ?Nov, 2008 AltLd
dan gibson 27 Oct, 2008 Lead O/S
with anna barnes
with anna barnes
Hidden 22 Apr, 2008 AltLd
Hidden ??, 2008 AltLd
Justin T 16 Jun, 2007 AltLd rpt P1,3
with Clara
P1,3
with Clara
Justin T 1 Jun, 2007 Lead rpt
with TeaGirl
with TeaGirl
Hidden 1 Jun, 2007 2nd dog
maresia 17 Apr, 2007 AltLd dog The first moves are exposed and I'm glad I didn't lead that pitch. Took a lob on exiting the overhanging crack on pitch 2, after climbing up and down it a good few times before committing.
with Fiend
The first moves are exposed and I'm glad I didn't lead that pitch. Took a lob on exiting the overhanging crack on pitch 2, after climbing up and down it a good few times before committing.
with Fiend
AJH 1 Apr, 2007 Lead O/S
with Crispin
with Crispin
Justin T 17 Mar, 2007 2nd O/S
with Cusco
with Cusco
Jon Evans 2 Sep, 2006 AltLd epic hvs 5a
with Paul
epic hvs 5a
with Paul
Dave Cundy ??, 2003 Lead O/S
with Christian Saxtoft
with Christian Saxtoft
duncan 12 Oct, 2002 AltLd O/S
rockjedi12345 ?May, 2001 Lead O/S
with Ian Stocker
with Ian Stocker
kylo-342 ?Oct, 1997 AltLd
with David H, Kirsten
with David H, Kirsten
colin milton 23 Jul, 1994 AltLd
with eric milton
with eric milton
Hidden 13 Jun, 1992 2nd
Budge ?Apr, 1992 AltLd O/S
with Richard Teed
with Richard Teed
ecowaller ??, 1990 Lead O/S
with Wendy Sampson, Andy Reid
with Wendy Sampson, Andy Reid
Hidden ?Feb, 1986 Lead O/S
ecowaller ??, 1980 Lead
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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 25
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 24
Votes cast 21
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Not Set