A superb route in a stunning setting. The start is somewhat of a "waker-upper" hand traverse (an initial belay is advisable) but a confident approach is quickly rewarded. Can be done in two pitches or three - either way be sure to back up the belay pegs with natural gear.

At the top there is a belay peg (probably intended for CTA etc) hidden down a rock step on the right (well back) as well as the more obvious gear.

Probably the best descent (unless you have a penchant for vertical grass scrambling where a slip would be fatal) is to ab off the iron stake just past said peg (check it first and take great care as it would be easy to to accidentally flick the rope off it at the start) which takes you down into the basin of LQP.

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.

stuartf 07/Sep/16 Lead O/S

Great route. Bold steep start. Top crack is outstanding

timreynolds 07/Sep/16 2nd
with stuartf
Hidden 31/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Stroppy 28/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Cracking line, proper adventure

Alex the Alex 28/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

After an epic traverse in. Hugely atmospheric and massively exposed. Well worth the faff. Found the second pitch tougher. Recommend heading right out on to the arete after the top crack.

with Ed
JackM92 31/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

found it pretty tough, more pumped than on E2's at Sharpnose...defo give this E1, it's exposed and committing.

with Nick Nixon
Hidden 16/Jul/16 2nd
AlexD 18/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
with Ed
Ed Babs 18/Jun/16 AltLd O/S


with AlexD
Phil79 29/Mar/16 AltLd O/S

Intimidating but great. Found top overhanging corner hard work.

with Steve H
Samuel Wainwright 08/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Easily as good as Moonraker!

Hidden 08/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/Dec/14 AltLd O/S
nickstephens 06/Dec/14 AltLd O/S
with Jay Jackson
mick1jones 31/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Led first pitch - scary 'til I worked out moves

with Rich Rogers
NancyJones 30/Aug/14 AltLd dog
Russell Blackaller 05/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Really good! 1st pitch probably warrants E1. I lead second pitch. Ace route.

with Rooker
Mr Tickle 05/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Led P1.

with RusseyB
alice fuller 03/May/14 AltLd O/S

I led the top pitch.

msoldn 01/Mar/14 AltLd O/S

bit committing at start, but the jugs are huge

with Mark
Avon Man 01/Mar/14 AltLd rpt

Start of P1 is quite dangerous if you traverse too high.

with msoldn
Macca_7 10/Nov/13 AltLd O/S

Done without the guidebook, think we got it pretty much spot on! Steep leftwards traverse on pitch 1 then easier second pitch I thought! Led this through an ocean of greenery!

with Stu Bradbury
sarpedon 14/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
Sophie Nunn 14/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
with Sarp
Hidden 26/Jul/13 2nd
Motown 26/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Lead both pitches - top pitch was hard.

with Richy
Dale Turrell 02/Feb/13 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd pitch.

with Dave R
Bristoldave 02/Feb/13 AltLd O/S

Led p1

with Dale
Grabtheslab ??/2013 -
JeromeT 16/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Lead Pitch Two.

with Ian
burto 16/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
with jerome
Hidden 31/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
Graham Atkins 10/Dec/11 Lead
adam cooper*super* 14/May/11 Lead rpt
Jack_F 14/May/11 AltLd O/S

Twas good

Hidden 22/Apr/11 AltLd
Hidden 08/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
twright180 25/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
solenostomus 25/Sep/10 AltLd
with Thom W
James Mitchelmore 17/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
Johnny Baker 06/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

A steep climb that made the forearms bulge

with Sam Richards
Hidden ?/Jul/10 Lead O/S
adam cooper*super* 02/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

brill, i lead 2nd pitch really nice climbing, BUT did pull off a bit of rock about nearly 2 foot long and fairly hefty aswell!

with mike waller
Marti999 10/Mar/10 AltLd O/S
ChrisBrooke 10/Mar/10 AltLd O/S
with Marti Hallet
Reeges 15/Nov/08 Lead O/S

Quality route! Though a bit wet up the wide crack on the 1st pitch. Bit of advice; the first pitch traverses the lower jug rail not the crack above with the pegs.

Hidden ?/Nov/08 AltLd
dan gibson 27/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with anna barnes
Hidden 22/Apr/08 AltLd
Hidden ??/2008 AltLd
Justin T 16/Jun/07 AltLd rpt


with Clara
Justin T 01/Jun/07 Lead rpt
with Wifey
Hidden 01/Jun/07 2nd dog
maresia 17/Apr/07 AltLd dog

The first moves are exposed and I'm glad I didn't lead that pitch. Took a lob on exiting the overhanging crack on pitch 2, after climbing up and down it a good few times before committing.

with Fiend
AJH 01/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Crispin
Justin T 17/Mar/07 2nd O/S
with Crispin
Jon Evans 02/Sep/06 AltLd

epic hvs 5a

with Paul
duncan 12/Oct/02 AltLd O/S
rockjedi12345 ?/May/01 Lead O/S
with Ian Stocker
kp64zl ?/Oct/97 AltLd
with David H, Kirsten
colin milton 23/Jul/94 AltLd
with eric milton
Hidden 13/Jun/92 2nd
Budge ?/Apr/92 AltLd O/S
with Richard Teed
ecowaller ??/1990 Lead O/S
with Wendy Sampson, Andy Reid
clark alston ?/Feb/86 Lead O/S

Awesome exposure for the grade.

with Alan Pow
ecowaller ??/1980 Lead
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