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UKClimbing Team

65m, 2 pitches. Access is by rapping from anchors level with the top of the Tote to a ledge. Swing across and latch a double bolt belay. Now commonly started via Deep Play.
1. 25m. Thin, serious climbing up and right to the arete, when is crossed onto the NE face to the bottom of a steep crack. Climb the crack to a platform on the N face and belay. All bolts are carrots.
2. 40m. The money pitch. Follow the bolts up the right arete and face. Some trad gear required in top section.

Steve Monks, Simon Mentz, Jane Wilkinson, Simon Carter Mar/1995

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
sambarstow 19 Mar 2nd dog
Hidden 8 Mar Lead O/S
Jeremy Moore ?Dec, 2018 2nd Stupendous climbing, friction is awesome, crux hard, I will return to lead it one day
with Vladi
Stupendous climbing, friction is awesome, crux hard, I will return to lead it one day
with Vladi
ChrisDavis 22 Feb, 2018 Lead O/S P2 after starting up Deep Play. Absolutely awesome.
with Derek
P2 after starting up Deep Play. Absolutely awesome.
with Derek
ian bryant 21 Feb, 2018 Lead O/S
Duncan Campbell 5 Feb, 2018 Lead Amazing but a little out of my grasp so early in the route season for me. Such a great pitch! If I’m here again I’ll more than happily come back for it! More about the adventure for me though - what a day out! Stayed at Paul Pritchard’s house and found out his accident had been almost exactly 20 years prior to our ascent. Meeting him and talking about it really made our ascent even more special
Amazing but a little out of my grasp so early in the route season for me. Such a great pitch! If I’m here again I’ll more than happily come back for it! More about the adventure for me though - what a day out! Stayed at Paul Pritchard’s house and found out his accident had been almost exactly 20 years prior to our ascent. Meeting him and talking about it really made our ascent even more special
Katekeltie 5 Feb, 2018 2nd
nathanlee 28 Nov, 2017 Lead O/S combined with deep play. so good and pretty tricky I thought. its got it all, a real desert island climb
combined with deep play. so good and pretty tricky I thought. its got it all, a real desert island climb
Ri 28 Nov, 2017 Lead dog A0 for me unfortunately! Fall at the crux. Absolutely amazing climbing in a ridiculous position. An adventure.
A0 for me unfortunately! Fall at the crux. Absolutely amazing climbing in a ridiculous position. An adventure.
Uisdean hawthorn 28 Nov, 2017 AltLd O/S one of the best routes ever.
with Ri
one of the best routes ever.
with Ri
Hidden 26 Mar, 2017 Lead dog
henweeee 21 Feb, 2017 2nd
spidermonkey09 21 Feb, 2017 Lead RP P2. Fair to say I never thought I'd do this when I first started climbing. The history, the aesthetics, the epics, the accidents. An absolute dream to climb this incredible pitch. Edges so perfect it's like they've been laser cut, incredible friction, immensely satisfying climbing. Not sure it gets any better than a route this good on a piece of rock this iconic. A privilege to climb on and a route I'll always remember.
P2. Fair to say I never thought I'd do this when I first started climbing. The history, the aesthetics, the epics, the accidents. An absolute dream to climb this incredible pitch. Edges so perfect it's like they've been laser cut, incredible friction, immensely satisfying climbing. Not sure it gets any better than a route this good on a piece of rock this iconic. A privilege to climb on and a route I'll always remember.
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 31 Dec, 2016 Lead P2 only (following on from Deep Play P1). Low 25, probably somewhere around 7a or 7a+, but grades aside one thing is for sure - it is an incredible pitch. Rarely do features such as this have climbing to match in terms of quality, but with the Totem Pole both come hand in hand. Perfect crimps and edges, coupled with being out there on the arete of a pillar that clearly shouldn't still be standing - not to mention the history that surrounds it - makes this one of the best and most memorable routes I have ever done (or aspired to do).
P2 only (following on from Deep Play P1). Low 25, probably somewhere around 7a or 7a+, but grades aside one thing is for sure - it is an incredible pitch. Rarely do features such as this have climbing to match in terms of quality, but with the Totem Pole both come hand in hand. Perfect crimps and edges, coupled with being out there on the arete of a pillar that clearly shouldn't still be standing - not to mention the history that surrounds it - makes this one of the best and most memorable routes I have ever done (or aspired to do).
penny.orr 31 Dec, 2016 2nd + Deep Play = Best climb of the trip!!
+ Deep Play = Best climb of the trip!!
markalmack 16 Nov, 2015 Lead O/S p2 only
with GAL
p2 only
with GAL
johnstacksanders 26 Dec, 2001 2nd dog I aided much of this on account of I don't climb E5. But the experience of being on this amazing piece of rock architecture and actually reaching the top, is one of my top adventure days - unforgettable.
with ross jones
I aided much of this on account of I don't climb E5. But the experience of being on this amazing piece of rock architecture and actually reaching the top, is one of my top adventure days - unforgettable.
with ross jones
11 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High 26
Mid 26
Low 26
High 25
Mid 25
Low 25
High 24
Mid 24
Low 24
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 3
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Onsighted
Dogged
Redpoint
Not Set