UKC

Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 February to 27 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Summer 2022

Birds have nested early and the restrictions are lifted for 2022 only.

 

A very important  sea- bird nesting area and seasonal restrictions apply to the whole crag. 

 

An intricate climb which weaves its way up the wall, right of Pterodactyl. As runout as heaven is wide. Start 25 metres down the ramp from Pterodactyl at a block belay.
1 45m. 5c. Ascend up and right, following cracks, with gear, onto the edge of the wall. Go straight up past a small recess and through a bulge to a no-hands rest (hidden peg on a small ledge just above). Step back down and traverse left then go straight up until level with the Paddington/ Pterodactyl belay. (Possible to traverse left and place bad runners here - cam #4 useful). Now trend off up and right for a few miles to a small spike, crux. Go up and right again to a ledge and peg belay.
2 15m. 5c. From the stance, move up and right to a pair of Siamese pegs. Crank straight up the steep wall to finish in a groove. A bit spooky.
Paul Pritchard, Ian Wilson, Debbie Quinn 15 July 96.

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Route of Interest
The Missionary-Maze link up

Grade: E4 5c ***
(Gogarth South Stack)

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