35m, 2 pitches. Rather better than appearances might suggest.
1. 4c/5a. Up the groove to a nice couple of moves right to the short smooth groove. This is difficult for short climbers but the protection is perfect. Up and traverse left to an excellent stance. Remember to protect your second!
2. 4b. Straight up on a plethora of wonderful holds to a move right at the grassy bay. Up to the short square groove. this can seep but the rib to the right offers delightful climbing. Very traditional finish.

R N Campbell 1959

FelixL 13/Jan 2nd
with lukevf, Richard P
lukevf 13/Jan Lead O/S
with FelixL
puzzledmonkey 27/Oct/18 Lead
with Stewart Anderson
IainMay 06/Oct/18 AltLd rpt
with Catriona Curtis, Noah Thorpe
crawa003 05/Oct/18 Lead
with Charles guest
Darrell Read 26/Sep/18 Lead
with robbiek
iWoody5025 20/Sep/18 2nd
Potsy 16/Sep/18 Lead O/S

Still wet which added to the interest, couple of lairy moves for an HS. Led in one big pitch.

lynnpotts84 16/Sep/18 2nd
with Potsy
william henderson 13/Sep/18 Lead O/S
Trickynick 12/Sep/18 Lead rpt
with Agie, Gregor
Matthoop91 11/Sep/18 2nd O/S
Trickynick 04/Sep/18 Lead
with Agie
Hidden ?/Sep/18 Lead O/S
Hayley Wolcott ?/Sep/18 Lead
Trickynick 31/Aug/18 AltLd
with Gregor
Leegilbertson 22/Aug/18 Lead
with Andre Ziegler
Hidden 18/Aug/18 AltLd rpt
richfitz 09/Aug/18 Lead O/S

Latter's book describes quite a different line between the top of the crux move (easily 4c) and the start of the the groove beyond the great bay. So interesting direct climbing up the headwall to gritty slopey holds

with Andrea
AlexMcAra 08/Aug/18 2nd
Hidden 08/Aug/18 Lead O/S
tobydunford 06/Aug/18 Solo O/S
Hidden 22/Jul/18 2nd
Hidden 18/Jul/18 AltLd O/S
Fergus Walker 18/Jul/18 AltLd O/S
with Alasdair
BPaske 15/Jul/18 Lead
with Emma
Hidden 15/Jul/18 Lead O/S
Steven Carter 12/Jul/18 2nd O/S
Nicola.h 09/Jul/18 2nd
keith hal 07/Jul/18 2nd rpt
with Ned R
Hidden 03/Jul/18 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Jul/18 2nd
Spindle200 25/Jun/18 Lead rpt
HelenB 23/Jun/18 2nd O/S
with BrianS
daWalt 22/Jun/18 AltLd rpt
Spindle200 22/Jun/18 AltLd O/S
Steph2004 21/Jun/18 Lead O/S

Fun doing a multi pitch when out for an evening climb!

wheelsucker 17/Jun/18 Lead rpt

Led in one pitch.

Jim Auger 07/Jun/18 Lead O/S
with Martin
Roberttaylor 06/Jun/18 AltLd

Scrappy, not that great a route

Eddie Harrison ?/Jun/18 Lead O/S
meanderthal 30/May/18 Lead
BigM 28/May/18 Lead O/S

first pitch okay, but second pitch not very obvious

with Luis
DaveWhite13 27/May/18 2nd O/S

Ags 2nd trad lead of the year

with The Wife
petercleghorn 20/May/18 Lead rpt
with Zac Allen
Hidden 20/May/18 Lead
Hidden 18/May/18 Lead
Mark Bull 18/May/18 AltLd rpt
with Mike
Hidden 17/May/18 Lead
manuelabucci 12/May/18 Lead
Mairi Jones 10/May/18 Lead
Hidden 07/May/18 2nd
MrRiley 07/May/18 AltLd O/S
with Richard Hines
Hidden 07/May/18 AltLd
Reevinator 07/May/18 Lead

First Corner, easy. Second groove on the right a lot more tricky for the vertically challenged. Belayed on the terrace at `15m up, but not on the flake. The continuation is straight forward, but a bit vegetated further up.

with Lauren McClure
AlonsoDundee 06/May/18 Lead O/S
benhughes 06/May/18 AltLd O/S

Lead alternative VS 4b finish

Justas Tarzan 06/May/18 2nd
DundeeDave 06/May/18 AltLd
Al_Mac 05/May/18 2nd
gforce 05/May/18 Lead rpt

An owl flew out of the beech tree as I climbed past

JessWilliams 05/May/18 Lead
with Al_Mac
mskngch 04/May/18 2nd
with Kirill
Kirill 04/May/18 Lead
with mskngch
JoeCollins 27/Apr/18 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Apr/18 Lead
AndyGill 01/Apr/18 Lead O/S
with Sirri Rimpi
mot1 10/Feb/18 Lead dnf

A wee bit damp

yodadave 19/Nov/17 -
Connorh 05/Nov/17 AltLd
btiller87 05/Nov/17 AltLd O/S
with Connorh
Hidden ?/Nov/17 Lead
Hidden 29/Oct/17 2nd
Mr Fuller 28/Oct/17 2nd O/S
Hidden 28/Oct/17 Lead O/S
Gadou 14/Oct/17 2nd dog
with PTH
PTH 14/Oct/17 Lead O/S

Good route. Not the most obvious line but HOS guide describes it spot on.

with Sam
Busby 14/Oct/17 AltLd rpt

Partner struggled with second part so climbed up and led through

lynx0907 08/Oct/17 2nd rpt
Sidekick 08/Oct/17 Lead O/S
Stuart_Burbidge 07/Oct/17 AltLd
with Stopsy
Stopsy 07/Oct/17 AltLd O/S
Little B 17/Sep/17 2nd O/S
Simonfarfaraway 17/Sep/17 Lead O/S

lead as 1 pitch (2 would have been better). Great route

alisoncraig94 15/Sep/17 2nd O/S
with Kirsty
Hidden 15/Sep/17 Lead rpt
mark-abz 20/Aug/17 2nd
with Rob L - AMC, Luigi - AMC
rmleatherby 20/Aug/17 Lead
Gawyllie 15/Aug/17 Lead
with john meechan
Hidden 12/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
rachelSquirrel 12/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with Carolyn, Euan S
mikewilson789 09/Aug/17 Lead O/S

Traversed left a bit early on pitch 1 I think

Violinist 09/Aug/17 Lead O/S

In 2 pitches. 1st one fun. Second one a bit hard to find..

kirsty_t 09/Aug/17 2nd O/S
shelbymcb 09/Aug/17 2nd
Hidden 05/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
CacCarnBeag 05/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

Led p2. Got rained on. Not too sure exactly where the 2nd pitch was supposed to go. Nice route.

with adw07
nathanshaw 24/Jul/17 Lead
with Jo
JWTM 02/Jul/17 Lead O/S
Adamski1986 25/Jun/17 2nd
with Gema Martin Ordas
ryan1410 25/Jun/17 AltLd O/S

I lead the second pitch. Challenging first pitch with some interesting moves needed. Overcast with sunny spells, light wind. Dry crag.

Hidden 25/Jun/17 Lead
purkle 23/Jun/17 2nd

Really nice route. Easy to avoid the polish.

Busby 23/Jun/17 Lead O/S

Nice route, makes you think a bit but good fun.

duncanbutler 18/Jun/17 2nd
davidsouthgate 18/Jun/17 Lead

Missing the belay caused confusion and rope drag.

Mapleleaf 18/Jun/17 AltLd
with Jim Hall
Hidden 02/Jun/17 AltLd rpt
Hidden 02/Jun/17 2nd
Leslie93 28/May/17 Lead O/S

Nice climb, although went right instead of left for second pitch. Ended up climbing some exposed slab to just left of treeline on path.

wheelsucker 06/May/17 Lead
lynx0907 06/May/17 2nd O/S
Trickynick 03/May/17 2nd O/S
Hidden 30/Apr/17 Lead O/S
Duncan 88 30/Apr/17 2nd
Hidden 23/Apr/17 Lead
Lea Krimp 23/Apr/17 2nd
Sandy_Philip 23/Apr/17 Lead O/S
with Dylan Ramsy stagg
IainMay 23/Apr/17 AltLd rpt
with Dylan Ramsay Stagg, Sandy_Philip
barney_edin 22/Apr/17 AltLd rpt
with TizzyA
TizzyA 22/Apr/17 AltLd O/S

Led P1

petercleghorn 20/Apr/17 AltLd O/S
with Beckie Davies
Al_Mac 09/Apr/17 Lead O/S

Led out as 55m pitch to the top tree (missed the path as I crossed it!).

bc44caesar 08/Apr/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Apr/17 Lead O/S
Baggie 02/Apr/17 Lead
AndyGill ?/Apr/17 Lead O/S
with Lea Kremp
rashwell 27/Mar/17 Lead
Hidden 19/Mar/17 2nd O/S
Stuart Hurworth 19/Mar/17 2nd O/S

Good moves, steep but not too tricky! Stuck for ages getting nut out then had to make the move. Move was tricky but stuck foot in back of crack as high as possible and got hand up high to tiny spike and then eases. Great, rest is good, nice slabs.

with Colin Maddison, Steve Graham
arose 13/Mar/17 2nd
with Helen Rennard
MoragCliseam ??/2017 Lead
Chris McMahon ??/2017 AltLd O/S
with Mike Hatherley
bodovix 12/Dec/16 Solo O/S
Samantha Dickson 10/Oct/16 Lead O/S
MrRossy 08/Oct/16 Lead O/S
mike.a.thorpe 02/Oct/16 AltLd O/S
with Scott B, Elaine
richardashe 04/Sep/16 2nd O/S
Russtygibbons 04/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Jonathan Aylen 02/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Sep/16 Lead O/S
lcullum7 01/Sep/16 2nd O/S
Daniela Balslev 26/Aug/16 AltLd rpt
with Kevin
mark-abz 21/Aug/16 2nd
with Luigi - AMC
TimCul 14/Aug/16 Lead O/S
evanc77 30/Jul/16 Lead
with daniontherocks
Daniontherocks 30/Jul/16 2nd
with evanc77
Naomi Havercroft 06/Jul/16 -
with Gregory Cain
Steve Lenartowicz 21/Jun/16 Lead
with Clare
colin milton 09/Jun/16 Lead

unfinished due to rain

with jenny
Jack Luke 14/May/16 Lead O/S
Anvir Singh 12/May/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 11/May/16 Lead rpt
Hidden 09/May/16 Lead O/S
SarahW1979 09/May/16 2nd
Hidden 09/May/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/May/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 08/May/16 AltLd rpt
Elsier 08/May/16 AltLd rpt

Lead second pitch, run out and a bit rambly but easy climbing/ bluebell pulling, Louise did a slight variation on the way i climbed the first pitch before, going slightly further left.

with shanala
lorens holm 08/May/16 AltLd O/S
with Oscar
kitkat78 07/May/16 AltLd
with SteveM
steve7734 07/May/16 Lead O/S
SteveM 07/May/16 AltLd
met1cul0us 07/May/16 2nd
dougp87 24/Apr/16 Lead rpt
Hidden 18/Apr/16 TR
IainMay 18/Apr/16 Lead O/S


yodadave 17/Apr/16 2nd
genghis76 16/Apr/16 -
with leonide
Gillieshill ?/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Ryan Pringle
Cecilewannaclimb ?/Apr/16 AltLd
with Kenny
Hidden 25/Mar/16 AltLd O/S
Hawky 23/Mar/16 -

Nice! Really enjoyed this one

with richard h
Hidden 21/Mar/16 -
Jamie Johnston 20/Mar/16 Lead
with snowplc
Hidden 20/Mar/16 2nd
deevid 19/Mar/16 2nd O/S

Quite a lot of rope drag. I was seconding so went right at the top head wall, which lead to some fun slabby action, but would have been tricky to lead.

with Braden, Heddwyn
MikwWebster 10/Mar/16 AltLd rpt
with Ian
robmack ??/2016 Lead
James Gordon ??/2016 -
scoth 01/Nov/15 2nd O/S
Mike Hood 19/Oct/15 Solo
jonnie3430 18/Oct/15 2nd
with Tom, Jen
Hidden 17/Oct/15 2nd
Pete_Stewart 17/Oct/15 Lead O/S

An excellent route! I think I went further right than I should have done though, and did what was maybe the last section of Piker's Progress before belaying off the tree at the top, next to the abseil anchor. Climbed the whole thing as one long pitch. Crux seemed to be one of the grooves quite low down, being tall was pretty useful. Some nice in situ gear on the route, but sadly couldn't retrieve any of it as crag-swag. Beautiful view from the top!

with Catriona, Rosie
Hidden 07/Sep/15 Solo
Hidden 01/Sep/15 2nd rpt
AngelaC 25/Aug/15 Lead
Mackinclimb 11/Aug/15 2nd
pdamann 09/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Led P1

with T Kinnaird
Barry Harper 08/Aug/15 Lead rpt

Pretty confusing after the first two corners, broke a hold off on the head wall and took flight. Not sure if I was on route but finished up the slab with the tree growing over the top out. Difficult in every sense for HS. Done in one pitch.

Fat Andy Heff 08/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30/Jul/15 2nd
bryan p 30/Jul/15 -
with Kay Dee
Daniela Balslev 29/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
with Kevin
Hidden ?/Jul/15 Lead
Chrismith ?/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Jun/15 2nd
peterjph 19/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with nicky hume
Steve Perry 17/Jun/15 2nd O/S
MikwWebster 11/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
with Ross
Benjamin Muis 30/May/15 2nd

Lead the first part.

Nomadguru 30/May/15 2nd O/S
with AdrianC, Dan Watson
MattKettle 29/May/15 2nd O/S
fuzzysheep01 29/May/15 Lead O/S

In 1 pitch. Stiff for HS.

sas 27/May/15 Lead O/S

Went off route after the grass ledge.

with Kevin F, Katie Titch
skirton 23/May/15 2nd
with Connor, Jude
grady_9 23/May/15 2nd O/S
Jude 23/May/15 Lead O/S

Found it really hard to commit to crux move. Best to do as two pitches, as rope drag is shocking otherwise.

with Connor, Sarah K
fweatherall1 20/May/15 Lead
Little AndyH 19/May/15 Lead O/S
Jon Pilling 21/Apr/15 AltLd O/S

MP Hammy Led P1 - 4c Steep, polished & awkward I led P2 - 4b easier but lacking in pro

with Pete Hamilton
roddycun 19/Apr/15 2nd O/S
olekemi 19/Apr/15 2nd rpt
with Roddy, Mark G
bduffin 18/Apr/15 2nd
Hidden 10/Apr/15 Lead O/S
eaf4 10/Apr/15 AltLd rpt

First pitch

with Brian Shackleton
Hidden 08/Apr/15 Lead
mishabruml 06/Apr/15 Lead O/S

lead in one pitch coz we were trying to leave the crag in a timely fashion, but the sunshine was just too tempting... think i went off route because the headwall after the initial crux was blank and scary and definitely not 4a... fun though!

with MReeves
MReeves 06/Apr/15 2nd
JosefGoeth ?/Apr/15 Lead
Hidden ?/Apr/15 AltLd rpt
PoorPaddy ?/Nov/14 2nd
bmox 25/Oct/14 2nd O/S
Matt McLay 28/Sep/14 2nd O/S

Lead by Gary, dunc was third. Hoped for more but weather turned wet

with Duncan King
Hidden 27/Sep/14 Lead
dougp87 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S
benclimbing 07/Sep/14 2nd
jonskippy 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/14 Lead
Heather Milne 13/Aug/14 2nd
with Euan S
Euan S 13/Aug/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 04/Aug/14 Solo O/S
ricochet714 ?/Aug/14 -
dh7892 28/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with lkp172
Hidden 28/Jul/14 2nd
Hidden 10/Jul/14 AltLd
Elsier 09/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Lead P1

with Callum
Mick Riley 21/Jun/14 2nd dog
with Guy Heaton
Hidden 11/Jun/14 Lead O/S
ClimbingGlen 31/May/14 Lead rpt
with Ana Piris
Steven Andrews 31/May/14 Lead O/S
with Richard Lines
Hidden 21/May/14 2nd
matt10990 28/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Danielle Arnott 28/Apr/14 2nd O/S
annep 21/Apr/14 Lead
Hidden 15/Apr/14 2nd
ClareM.123 26/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Not sure if i stuck to the intended route, very confusing directions given in guide book, blank second pitch.

Tim Hamlet 26/Mar/14 Lead
langdalec 26/Mar/14 2nd O/S

Got Lost.

Hidden 13/Mar/14 2nd
Hidden 13/Mar/14 Lead O/S
alistairmontgomery ??/2014 -
Hidden 06/Oct/13 2nd
mot1 21/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with shanala
Hidden 21/Sep/13 2nd rpt
Hidden 21/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Sep/13 2nd O/S
ephraim 17/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
with Dave B.
Hidden 14/Sep/13 AltLd
Hidden 14/Sep/13 Lead dog
martinh13 25/Aug/13 2nd
Gawyllie 25/Aug/13 Lead
with Roger smith
Hidden 25/Aug/13 Lead rpt
Scott Rankin 23/Aug/13 Lead
olekemi 04/Aug/13 2nd O/S
with Simon T, Andy B
andybroadway 04/Aug/13 Lead O/S
cat22 27/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with Hamish
CyberTaff 20/Jul/13 Lead O/S

I led the second pitch of this as we went off route while climbing Twisted Rib. That topic section is lovely climbing.

with Scott Boswell
jesss 15/Jul/13 2nd
jjax 14/Jul/13 AltLd β

really struggled with the crux of the 1st pitch, so strenuous. led 2nd wee pitch from grassy ledge up, didn't like that much neither.

jacobfinn 14/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

I did first pitch up to big grassy ledge. Went right at the head wall instead of left. Probably more fun but unprotected... Jax did P2.

with jjax
Hidden 13/Jul/13 AltLd rpt
Mapleleaf 13/Jul/13 2nd
with Jim Hall
Koon 11/Jul/13 AltLd rpt

Lead P1

with Burnsie
gsevans 01/Jul/13 AltLd
with aldo56
aldo56 01/Jul/13 AltLd

Lead the 1st delightful pitch, second was rather vegetated. (Got stung by a bee, WATCH OUT FOR BEES!)

with gsevans
Hidden ?/Jul/13 Lead O/S
peter c 30/Jun/13 Lead
skirton 19/Jun/13 Lead rpt
with Charlie Arnold
Hidden 16/Jun/13 Lead O/S
noemie5438 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Chris ravey
Hidden 08/Jun/13 AltLd rpt
planetmarshall 08/Jun/13 AltLd dog

Fell on P1.

Daveslade 06/Jun/13 AltLd
hepy 06/Jun/13 Lead
Hidden 01/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
jaggy bunnet ?/Jun/13 2nd dnf

started raining, finished up Twisted Rib

cjohn62 26/May/13 Lead
barney_edin 26/May/13 AltLd
with Mehmet
PittPauly 25/May/13 2nd rpt
with Gordon McAllan
jfmchivall 24/May/13 Lead O/S

Pitch 2 direct finish HVS 5a: from the stance above P1, step right then climb up to the obvious undercut flake. Go right and up on small holds to pull over onto a slab which is climbed to a vegetated bay. The groove above gives thin moves to belay on the path by a fallen pine.

with Thomas Beutenmuller
Hidden 17/May/13 Lead O/S
eaf4 16/May/13 2nd
ClimbingGlen 11/May/13 Lead O/S

Multi pitched it

with Teresa Torrents
Hidden 06/May/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 04/May/13 -
Hidden 04/May/13 AltLd
Hidden 27/Apr/13 2nd
Hidden 27/Apr/13 2nd
Hidden 27/Apr/13 Solo
DougSt ??/2013 AltLd
David Stevens 21/Oct/12 Lead rpt
JohnMetcalfe 07/Oct/12 AltLd O/S
with Andy Wilson
Hidden 01/Oct/12 Lead
Yourlead 28/Sep/12 Lead
with Graham Penny
horsefeathers 23/Sep/12 2nd O/S
with Louise
Hidden 23/Sep/12 Lead O/S
tlmarjot 23/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
with Anna Wilding
Hidden 15/Sep/12 2nd
KeithAlexander 08/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Sarah
kes1 02/Sep/12 -
with Noemie Perret
Hidden 28/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
Simon Caldwell 28/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

First pitch pretty hard for HS, even allowing for the crux being damp. I led the 2nd pitch, easier but bold - the final corner was soaking wet which made it a bit exciting!

with Lemming
iansm 09/Aug/12 2nd
with Graham C
Dopey_172 09/Aug/12 AltLd β

Done P1 Murdo P2, Tough crux but well protected on P1 and P2 badly protected.

with mmac
Ross Young 04/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with Rubi HWUMC
annep 02/Aug/12 2nd
Andy Moles 02/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Anne
Hidden 26/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20/Jul/12 Lead
yehti 17/Jul/12 AltLd
with David Wallace
Hidden 10/Jul/12 AltLd
island_explorer 24/Jun/12 2nd O/S
grady_9 24/Jun/12 Lead O/S
krasavenko 04/Jun/12 2nd O/S
McKenna 04/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Brian McG
Hidden 04/Jun/12 Lead
jimontherocks 02/Jun/12 Lead

Good climb.

with Graeme
freyja 29/Apr/12 Lead O/S

seemed really easy, didn't even realise which bit was the crux, maybe being tall was advantageous... did it in one pitch with half ropes

mattdown 29/Apr/12 2nd
with freyja
johannes 01/Apr/12 AltLd rpt

correct finish this time

Hidden 01/Apr/12 Lead O/S
climberuk 01/Apr/12 2nd β

Spent more time trying to figure out how to get up the corner on this route than I spent leading the whole of The Groove.

with Pam
Hidden 01/Apr/12 TR dog
mshorter 01/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with erika
Nille 01/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
robertmichaellovell 25/Mar/12 Lead
with Bex
Koon 18/Mar/12 AltLd

Karin climbed pitch one and I climbed pitch two. Nice climb.

with karinh
David Stevens 14/Mar/12 2nd O/S
with radioshed, Reuben Crook
radioshed 14/Mar/12 2nd rpt
with Reuben
crookachili 14/Mar/12 Lead
Hidden 10/Mar/12 Lead O/S
gw3285 10/Mar/12 Lead
Stephi 25/Feb/12 2nd O/S
with OwenF
OwenF 25/Feb/12 Lead

nasty rope drag and wasn't sure if I was off route at the end

with Stephi
SuperMike64 24/Feb/12 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2012 -
james.fathers 27/Nov/11 2nd
with skirton
skirton 27/Nov/11 Lead

Excellent fun climb. Done in one long pitch. Crux move took some effort for a short fry like me. Had to abandon a cam (at crux) that got completely jammed. Should anyone be able to free it please get in touch!

iainstap 25/Sep/11 Lead

35m head game

Pat-H 24/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with bo
SarahW1979 04/Sep/11 2nd O/S

Did P1, possibly did P2 of Twisted Rib

with Sandrina, Dan
longpointyboater ?/Sep/11 2nd
crombie 22/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
with patesey
Hidden 22/Aug/11 2nd
Hidden 22/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/11 AltLd
Hidden ?/Aug/11 2nd
Hidden 10/Jul/11 2nd
bnewman 02/Jul/11 AltLd

Great lead on p.1 by Amelia. Felt solid 4c to me. P.2 is nowhere near as good. Multi-pitch trad lead workshop for Amelia by Johannes.

with Johannes, memetic
Hidden ?/Jul/11 AltLd β
Hidden 29/Jun/11 2nd
D_Wills 24/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

oly p 1, me p2, got horrible rope drag

Hidden 05/Jun/11 2nd
Hidden ?/Jun/11 Lead β
Skudrick ?/Jun/11 2nd
keith hal 20/May/11 2nd
with Peter Berwick
Hidden 19/May/11 Lead
iansm 11/May/11 2nd
with John
chapmand 02/May/11 Lead rpt
with Liz Miller
Kazza91 ?/May/11 -
Pete23 ?/May/11 Lead

Crux move is harder than any 4c moves I have done in the past. Great climb!

with Keith Haldane
Plungeman 30/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
radioshed 30/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Led P1, lovely stuff.

Hidden 18/Apr/11 2nd
nich0las 17/Apr/11 2nd rpt
with Ewanski
Ewanski 17/Apr/11 Lead O/S
abbeywall 17/Apr/11 AltLd
with N
Hidden ?/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Morgan Orr 29/Mar/11 2nd
cogg13 29/Mar/11 Lead rpt
allyrocke 29/Mar/11 Lead O/S
alexpattillo 29/Mar/11 2nd rpt
with cogg13
andrewkeith 27/Mar/11 2nd
johnkeith 27/Mar/11 Lead O/S

First fifty feet really good. Steep,well protected and sustained. Did it as a single pitch up to good tree belay - glad we used the 60m ropes as it was a long way.

Hidden 21/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
Mike Hatherly ??/2011 Lead O/S

Traversed too far left after flake belay.

with Carl Bramham
Scottish78 ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
drew8connelly ??/2011 -
drew8connelly ??/2011 -
andrew75 ??/2011 Lead
Hidden 12/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
Paul L 04/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
Blakclaw 30/Aug/10 AltLd
with Di G
Hidden 28/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
daWalt 22/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Lisa
iceicebaby 22/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Great route, but P1 felt harder than some VS's I've done. The crux corner is definitely 4c, and the bits leading up to it felt sustained 4b. Surely VS no? Maybe I was just having an off-day.

glenngordon 15/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with richard duncan
zoeduffin ?/Aug/10 Lead
mark88 27/Jul/10 AltLd
with Alex Vaughan
henning82 24/Jul/10 2nd O/S
johannes 24/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Did it in one single pitch. Not sure if I lost the route at the top, ran into unprotected 4b moves

Alejandro S 23/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Theres a wasp's nest at the grassy area of the 2nd pitch so beware! Luckily I didn't disturb it on lead but my 2nd got absolutely annihiliated! :P

with kchink
joeydurkin 11/Jul/10 2nd
with Jockey
John Roe 11/Jul/10 Lead
with John Redfearn
Liam Ingram 07/Jul/10 2nd O/S
girlymonkey 05/Jul/10 AltLd

Johnny lead the first pitch, with the crux, I lead the second pitch

with Johnny Bell
sergio46 ?/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
with Andrew W
meh ?/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/10 2nd
Hidden 30/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
nich0las 26/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Catriona C
Cacyn 21/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
with Drew Yule
DundeeDave 12/Jun/10 AltLd rpt

Led pitch 2

Hidden 12/Jun/10 Lead
Hidden 09/Jun/10 AltLd dog
PeteLoveless 03/Jun/10 Lead O/S
edkirkham 03/Jun/10 2nd
Hidden 18/May/10 Lead
jonnyhawkins1 17/May/10 AltLd O/S
with C J
jack_eadie 05/May/10 Lead
mikemartin 05/May/10 2nd
s crombie 05/May/10 Lead
GPN 03/May/10 Lead O/S
with net
net 02/May/10 2nd
with GPN
cogg13 22/Apr/10 Lead β

first pitch felt fantastic finished in the dark!

with dave laird
Hidden 17/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
Roch 10/Apr/10 Lead
with Rob Slack
Tim_Gomersall ?/Apr/10 Lead O/S
SWalls 21/Mar/10 Lead
stephenmckenzie 21/Mar/10 2nd O/S
with SWalls
sebrider 20/Mar/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 20/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Chris wilson 19/Mar/10 Lead
richiegarside 15/Mar/10 -
with steven Andrews
Hidden ??/2010 -
abbeywall 17/Oct/09 AltLd

led first pitch

with K
Cacyn 08/Oct/09 2nd O/S
with Ewan Whitaker
Karlos 13/Sep/09 Lead O/S
John_10 13/Sep/09 2nd
with Callum
Ian Archer 13/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with Karlos
Hidden 13/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11/Sep/09 Lead O/S
DundeeDave 22/Aug/09 AltLd rpt

led 1st pitch

with Jimmy Moxley, ewan.gourlay
Bron 18/Aug/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 18/Aug/09 Lead
mikecollins 09/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with manmike
manmike 09/Aug/09 2nd rpt
duncana 08/Aug/09 AltLd

Juggy traverse, and trickier corner on pitch one. Found a bats' nest at belay at top!

with Pippa Archer
Mike-W-99 02/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
niallk 02/Aug/09 2nd
with Sheryl
Fiona Reid 02/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

Mike did the first pitch (very nice climb), I led the second pitch (nothing special)

simon_williams6 29/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11/Jul/09 2nd
K Wall 11/Jul/09 AltLd
with Martin
qboyd 03/Jul/09 Lead
with Paul
MelH 28/Jun/09 Lead O/S

I lead both pitches. Very interesting crux move!! ;-) More difficult for us shorties but still completely gorgeous move when you get the sequence!!!

with SonyaD
Hidden 28/Jun/09 2nd
KeenDark 23/Jun/09 Lead O/S

First Anchor point seems a bit sparse for pro, set up slightly to the right of where the book recomends.

cherylwood 23/Jun/09 2nd O/S
McBirdy 21/Jun/09 2nd O/S

Not sure this deserves the praise it seems to get!

with Helen Darvill
manmike 13/Jun/09 AltLd
with craig
craigruddock 13/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with manmike
Captain Solo 11/Jun/09 Solo
Hidden 09/Jun/09 AltLd
CMorris 07/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
Nevis_Ben 07/Jun/09 AltLd
with CMorris
liz77 06/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Jane
Tom Baird 30/May/09 Lead O/S

Easy enough climb if you follow the proscribed route. I tried to go straight up the headwall behind the beech - it goes but it is unprotected and leads to a horrible pull up a dirt shelf. Helpful folk advised so I down-climbed back to correct route, set up a belay and climbed in two pitches.

with Derek
simon_D 24/May/09 Lead O/S
with Kyle
khartwig 24/May/09 Lead O/S
with cameron watson
kleky 19/May/09 AltLd O/S

Pitch 1: Paul Millen lead Pitch 2: My lead

with Paul Millen
Stuart Macfarlane 17/May/09 AltLd rpt

Jeanie led 1st pitch and I led the 2nd.

with Jeanie
stuaart 05/May/09 AltLd rpt

I did 1st pitch, Jo did 2nd.

with Jo Clements
cashley 13/Apr/09 Lead O/S

nice climb with easy placements for dunkeld

with helen g
t_stork 11/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Marcus Brown
Hidden 05/Apr/09 Lead
dan doran 03/Apr/09 -
Hidden ?/Apr/09 Lead
mastiffmat ?/Apr/09 Lead
glassford ?/Apr/09 2nd
with cashley
rallymania 21/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Nev
gordon henderson 26/Feb/09 Lead O/S
with Kerry Johnstone
Sim_Sim 22/Feb/09 2nd O/S
with Ian Jones
iceicebaby 22/Feb/09 2nd

Really nice route, especially in the dark :)

with Ian Jones and SimSim
Ian Jones 22/Feb/09 Lead O/S

The groove is hard for little people. Excellent 2nd pitch. Christina did well in the gloom and Mikael needed a head torch courtesy of Sam Wood.

with Sim Sim (Mikael Simmonsen) and IceIceBaby (Christina Bell)
Hidden ??/2009 -
Hidden ??/2009 Lead
iangray ??/2009 AltLd O/S
with Euan G
Ianshand ??/2009 -
Hidden ??/2009 -
BRUCESTRAC ??/2009 Lead
with Chris Cracknell,Various
JdotP 12/Oct/08 AltLd O/S
with Sir Faffalot
Stuart Macfarlane 28/Sep/08 AltLd rpt
with Jeanie
stuaart 28/Sep/08 AltLd O/S

Sian did 1st pitch, I did second.

with SianR
SianR 28/Sep/08 AltLd

1st pitch super, 2nd pitch a bit disapointing

with Stuart & Suvvi
BallsOfSteel 27/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Stevos
Hidden 14/Sep/08 2nd
joeurwin 08/Sep/08 AltLd

I led 2nd pitch

with AlexD
AlexD 08/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
oliverk 30/Aug/08 AltLd

Pitch 1

with Michael
morsy 30/Aug/08 AltLd
with gerhard mors
ed woods 24/Aug/08 2nd
gaz.marshall 24/Aug/08 Lead
with Eddie
ellis1 24/Aug/08 2nd rpt
with Dave Pacione
cogg13 23/Aug/08 2nd O/S
with dave laird
thebat 16/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
with Ontour
andyinglis 16/Aug/08 Lead
with Monica
Hidden 16/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Thomas Healing 12/Aug/08 Lead O/S

Single pitch 14M 4C

rusty_nails 05/Aug/08 Lead β

Lead up through crux crack line, then lost route, and headed right following finishing scramble of twisted rib

with Dave Pacione
whispering nic ?/Aug/08 -
Hidden 26/Jul/08 2nd
Hidden 26/Jul/08 Lead rpt
Hidden 21/Jul/08 2nd
crisaitken 02/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
gordon henderson 02/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/08 2nd O/S
Euan S ?/Jul/08 Lead
guyscott 29/Jun/08 Lead
with James C/Josh
Hidden 21/Jun/08 AltLd
DavPk 15/Jun/08 AltLd O/S

Lead 2nd pitch

with Mark Moynagh
rusty_nails 13/Jun/08 2nd O/S
with ellis1
ellis1 13/Jun/08 Lead O/S

Can be climbed as two pitches, climbed as one on this occasion.

Rampikino 07/Jun/08 Lead

Good first pitch, poor second pitch.

with Cat
Mooseman ?/Jun/08 2nd
with Mike
kagreen 20/May/08 Lead
with Alistair montgomery
Hidden 19/May/08 AltLd O/S
climberuk 18/May/08 Lead O/S

Led first pitch. Very nice move over the corner. Alan led the second pitch.

with Alan
Adam1973 10/May/08 2nd O/S
with Big Ian
Champo 02/May/08 2nd
with Ginge
roryifinlay ?/May/08 2nd
with Richard Howitt
tim402 20/Apr/08 2nd O/S
with tommy
Chris wilson 16/Mar/08 AltLd
with mmac
Hidden 05/Mar/08 AltLd O/S
fatboy_dean 05/Mar/08 AltLd O/S
groovypiper ?/Mar/08 Lead
with Bob
markfairbank 17/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with Andy Platell
burto 16/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with lyndsey
sgl 16/Feb/08 AltLd O/S
with Matt
arose ?/Jan/08 AltLd

Good fun.

with Matthew Phillips
TrollJester ??/2008 Lead O/S
with done many routes umteen times some solo
Hidden ??/2008 -
kdlauder ??/2008 Lead O/S

felt run out on not the best gear (enjoyed the start and the top section and was scared in the middle)

with rene
Hidden ??/2008 -
jess ??/2008 Lead O/S
with martin
Hidden ??/2008 -
Murray Freq ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 Lead
CalumC ??/2008 -
fritz_in_aotearoa ??/2008 -
Ly-Cilph 06/Oct/07 Lead O/S

Doing this is one pitch is no fun: the rope drag is insane!

with Jack B
Hidden 06/Oct/07 2nd O/S
yehti ?/Oct/07 AltLd
with Hertha Taverner-wood
fall-line 30/Sep/07 AltLd O/S
with calum eumc
TrevorCruse 18/Sep/07 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd pitch. Kris led 1st pitch

with Kris, Roger
steve.aisthorpe 10/Sep/07 AltLd
with John Lyall
Hidden 23/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
Alexander123 20/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
with Watty
Watty 20/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
with A.Watt
Mark Fairhurst 16/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Jul/07 AltLd
mterentiusvarro ?/Jul/07 2nd
with Ellie
Hay ?/Jun/07 AltLd O/S

Me 1st John 2nd

with John D
ligaya ?/May/07 -

disappointingly grassy, I have my doubts about the 2 stars

with Owen
Hidden 29/Apr/07 2nd O/S
climber130887 12/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
Yellow_trousers 07/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Al Docket
bigbobbyking 02/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Sam Clarke
figfour ??/2007 Lead O/S
phil_freeman ??/2007 2nd
with Jake
alan wilson ??/2007 -
Hidden 16/Oct/06 2nd
beegsyboy 23/Sep/06 2nd O/S
with Eccie + Johnny
Neil Mackenzie 23/Sep/06 Lead O/S

second corner crack was wicked!!!

with tim and john
McGus 12/Aug/06 AltLd
with Phil Amos
andymoin 16/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
with Jamy McFarlane
pigeonjim 06/May/06 Lead rpt
with Mikkel
Hidden 06/May/06 2nd dnf
Hidden 06/May/06 2nd
Hidden 22/Apr/06 2nd
pigeonjim 22/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with Sonja
Hidden ?/Apr/06 Lead O/S
Sean Bell ?/Mar/06 AltLd O/S
with col
Hidden ??/2006 -
Neil Adams ??/2006 Lead O/S
the abmmc ??/2006 2nd
with karly54
breithorn4164 ??/2006 Lead
with Callum Black
George Bassant ?/Sep/05 -
with Tom Webborn
Stuart Macfarlane 02/Jul/05 AltLd rpt
el diablo 02/Jul/05 AltLd
Lawrie Brand 09/Jun/05 Lead O/S
with Keith
Hidden 02/Jun/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/May/05 Lead O/S
the abmmc 17/May/05 2nd
with karly54
DundeeDave 24/Apr/05 AltLd
with Chris Martin, Roddy Macleod
jazzyjackson 01/Apr/05 Lead O/S
with Tully
andyinglis ?/Apr/05 Lead
Hidden ??/2005 Lead
CurlyStevo ??/2005 Lead
Stuart Macfarlane 05/Jun/04 2nd
with Helen
DundeeDave 25/Apr/04 AltLd
with Eva Ticke
Hidden ??/2004 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2004 Lead
Chris L Hill ??/2004 2nd O/S
with Stuart Shaw, Gwilym
snowboarder ?/Sep/03 2nd
with 220bpm
220bpm ?/Sep/03 Lead O/S
DundeeDave 16/Jul/03 Lead
with Eva Ticke
hedgehog77 16/Jul/03 AltLd
Hidden 08/Jul/03 Lead
RAK 05/Jun/03 Lead
with Dario ?
Stuart Macfarlane 01/Jun/03 Lead rpt
with Laura
Hidden 02/Mar/03 -
tompercy ?/Mar/03 AltLd
alan moore ??/2003 -
Hidden ??/2003 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23/Aug/02 AltLd
dave o 26/Jul/02 Lead O/S
with chris lawton
The Pulsing Motorik of Neu! 05/May/02 2nd rpt
with Rebecca
Yourlead 20/Apr/02 Lead

Climbing in El Caps, but avoided the crux!

with Raymond Simpson
barney_edin ?/Apr/02 Lead
Hidden 31/Jul/01 2nd O/S
Old_Nick_S 12/May/01 Lead
with Irene
JiveWeasel 05/May/01 AltLd O/S
Jamie B ?/May/01 Lead
with Robin Bankhead
Yourlead 21/Apr/01 Lead

Lead 1st pitch

with Raymond Simpson
Andy Say 19/Apr/01 Solo
Stuart Macfarlane ?/Apr/01 AltLd
with skog
dangates ??/2001 Lead
with Ian Hutchinson
greenroom ??/2001 Lead O/S
Nettle 28/Aug/00 AltLd O/S

Chinny led the first pitch.

with Wilf2
DundeeDave 27/Aug/00 Lead
Yourlead 08/May/00 2nd
with Raymond Simpson
IanMcC 06/May/00 AltLd
with JimSh
IanD353 ?/Mar/00 Lead O/S
with Ailsa
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
graeme gatherer ??/2000 -
JohnH1977 ?/Sep/99 Lead O/S
Tarquin ??/1999 -
Tarquin ??/1999 -
tompercy ?/Jul/98 AltLd
with Russ Weedon
Hidden ??/1997 AltLd O/S
Cassidy 13/Apr/95 Lead O/S
with David Cassidy
Yourlead 26/Jul/94 Lead
with Hugh Muchcamp
Yourlead 11/Jul/93 Lead
with Gillian Lyall
pingora 16/Apr/93 Lead
with Bev
The Pulsing Motorik of Neu! 22/May/92 Lead O/S
with Pauline Haddow
Yourlead 12/Aug/91 Lead
with Jim Hamilton
Yourlead 16/Jul/91 Lead
with Jim Hamilton
Yourlead 02/May/91 Lead
with Richard Gatehouse, Jim Drysdale
Yourlead 22/Aug/90 Lead
with Jim Hamilton
Yourlead 07/Jun/90 Lead
with Jim Drysdale
Yourlead 25/May/90 AltLd

I took top pitch

with Alex Runciman
Hidden 15/Apr/89 2nd O/S
Neil Henderson ??/1988 -
Dave Douglas 27/Jul/87 Lead O/S
with Davy Allen
Hidden 19/Jun/85 AltLd
rossn ?/Jun/85 AltLd O/S
with John Fitzpatrick
amcleish ??/1984 -
Bruce Kerr 26/Nov/78 2nd
with Frank Hughes
drewyule ??/1969 Lead
Hidden 10/Apr/68 Lead
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Votes cast 76
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