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Ticklists: 3 star Scottish winter.

MattersBats 29/Jan/17 2nd
masa-alpin 25/Mar/16 AltLd dnf

Thawing, being against the forecast, and turfs got softer as the day went by. I didn't know the through route had disappeared, and tried to work out the "improbable" (according to the guide) way of the throut route, but in the end gave up, as it seemed more impossible than improable even for small myself, and to get to the (impossibly small) hole (to the left) was I found tech 6 or 7. Then tried the way on the face to the right of the chockstone, but the crucial turf wasn't frozen. We abbed off from that point all the way, for 3 long pitches. Michelle lead P1, P3, P5, I lead P2 (tech 4/5, very short), P4 (tech 6, from the right, short), P6 (up to just below the huge chockstone on R-branche, from which point I climbed down for a couple of metres and then abbed off to the belay). Horrendous wind on our walk out, which in a couple occasions forced us to sit/lie down. The view in the morning was stunning, though. No other soul at all all day.

with Suzie, Michelle A
Hidden 09/Mar/16 Lead
peter.herd 05/Mar/16 Lead

A great long mountaineering style route and Amy's first harder winter route. Got a good facial cleansing from the spindrift. Lots of ice, didnt have any screws but thought IV/4 overall. Descended N ridge.

with Amy
Amy Pritchett 05/Mar/16 2nd
Hidden 24/Feb/16 -
Ken Applegate 22/Feb/16 Lead

Worth noting that the chockstone that used to form the tunnel has collapsed, so there is now no through route. The only options are to climb to the right, which is better and more secure with good ice, which there wasn't today, or looking at the logged entry below, a short corner further right, which looked ok.

Chrismith 14/Feb/16 AltLd
MrRiley 14/Feb/16 AltLd O/S

A really great route but not what I was expecting! Cruddy snow on the easy bits but some good neve where it mattered, no ice to speak of barring a few blobs for screws on the gully walls. New chockstone section is a great boulder problem - we climbed it on the left with one tech 5 move. Cave exit totally buried and no ice on the right side so outflanked on the far right via short narrow gully and another chockstone. Top crux through the wedged blocks was excellent, well protected and big hooks - went right to add a few more moves in. Descended via the North Ridge of Spidean which was mostly ok and pretty quick once down the upper part. Stunning weather with ever-changing moody light, very atmospheric!

Hoyes 14/Feb/16 AltLd O/S

Also with Matt and Matt. Fairly thin conditions. Fairly tricky getting over the first chockstone. Outflanked the second chockstone on the far right. Final tricky pitch up and over the wedged blocks. Descended via the North Ridge of Spidean. Long walk out.

Debbie Lee 14/Feb/16 AltLd O/S

Fantastic day out. Great route in a spectacular setting. Very straightforward sections are interspersed with trickier moves around the chockstone, cave and jumbled blocks. Good belays but gear in between required a bit of digging at times.

Lumbering Oaf 14/Feb/16 AltLd O/S

Bit thin in places.

Batt 14/Feb/16 AltLd

Limited ice quite a bit of poor snow. Descended down north buttress, long slog out!

manbat 14/Feb/16 AltLd O/S

Fantastic route! Soloed the first section, and then swapped leads. Were one of three groups, so there was some interminable queuing. Massively awkward getting over the tricky step, and great fun leading the jumbled blocks. Ridiculously long winded affair getting back down!

davidswannn 08/Feb/16 AltLd
SenzuBean 04/Feb/16 2nd dog

What a lovely route! Took a short fall on the vertical ice, but otherwise went smoothly. We went to the right around about the penultimate pitch and did a short bit of chimney. With intro winter climber course.

with Matt, Guy
Hidden 02/Feb/16 Lead
Hidden 20/Feb/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20/Feb/15 AltLd
gingerbex 19/Feb/15 AltLd

Lea the first 3 pitches. more like IV for the top pitches, somewhat lacking in ice

graeme gatherer 15/Feb/15 -

Lots of good ice.

with Steve Elliot
Daniela Balslev 14/Feb/15 AltLd O/S

I lead pitches 1 and 5. Ice was thin at the top.

with Iain
flying el burro 01/Feb/15 2nd
Grassrob ?/Feb/15 AltLd
HP9 26/Jan/15 2nd
with will Sim
alifin 19/Feb/14 AltLd O/S

Cracking climb, definitely stiff for Grade III, deserves the extra tech grade, couple of tricky steps before and after the cave. Cave was crazy and somewhat awkward! Great day out.

with Aidan Roe
Piglet69 19/Feb/14 AltLd
with alifin
Robertgiddy 19/Feb/14 Lead
Hidden 17/Feb/14 2nd O/S
alastairbegley 17/Feb/14 Lead O/S

Great climb! Felt pretty stiff for grade III, had to do lots of digging to get into/through and out of the cave!

with Jon Smith, Zack Coleman
gregor 15/Feb/14 -
DAL 10/Feb/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 08/Feb/14 AltLd
AndyMcCoy 05/Feb/14 2nd O/S
with Some Guide, Richard Bennett
SarahMae ?/Feb/14 2nd
benclimbing ?/Feb/14 AltLd O/S
abbeywall 30/Jan/14 Lead

BMC international meet. Great conditions

mark-abz 24/Jan/14 2nd
with Paul J
DaveB61 20/Jan/14 AltLd
with Ken Applegate, Greg Jennings, Dean Jones
Andy Nisbet 01/Jan/14 -

Martin Moran notes that a large rockfall has taken place on the left side of George, just before the steep section. The belay bay has disappeared. This has deposited a huge chockstone in the gully just below, creating a short additional pitch of some difficulty. Even with some helpful ice it requires a hard pull; without ice it could be problematic (tech 5). I would now reckon III,5 for George and IV,6 for Sinister Prong. The two crux sections on Sinister Prong are really quite hard in most conditions (either of them can be 6), and with the addition of the lower chockstone I reckon it is worth IV overall.

Hidden ??/2014 AltLd
Hidden ??/2014 -
Pete Rigby 31/Dec/13 AltLd O/S
with Kelli Roberts
kelliroberts3 31/Dec/13 AltLd
mhamiltonj 01/Apr/13 Lead
with Johanna
Hidden 01/Apr/13 2nd
Hidden 09/Mar/13 2nd
Steven Andrews 09/Mar/13 Lead O/S

avoided the cave this time and went up the fine ice. Lovely route.

with Ryan, Appleby
bobpilgrem 04/Mar/13 Lead O/S

Finished up Sinister Prong IV 5- which is a good alternative. Two short but sharp ice bulges before rejoining top of George.Also a good in situ belay at base of pitch and a couple of old pegs o

nich0las 02/Mar/13 AltLd
with Andrew M, Catriona C
planetmarshall 02/Mar/13 AltLd O/S

Expensive climb for me, lost one of Nicholas's ice screws.

with Catriona Clunas, Nicholas Berry
Hidden 28/Feb/13 AltLd
sj87 28/Feb/13 2nd
abbeywall 24/Feb/13 AltLd
with K
Hidden 23/Feb/13 AltLd
Hidden 16/Feb/13 AltLd
Colin Mcgregor 16/Feb/13 AltLd
dan doran 16/Feb/13 -
Hidden 12/Feb/13 AltLd
Ken Applegate 07/Feb/13 Lead

Guiding day with Matt. Conditions were perfect, with the ice being as fat as I've known. Descent on the S side of Liathach was very easy due to snow cover too.

with Matt
DavPk 02/Feb/13 AltLd

Soft snow in lower part of gully but good conditions higher up. Cave pitch is great fun, esp the exit! Surmounting the chockstone also quite awkward.

with Paul Robinson
Ken Applegate 13/Feb/12 Lead

A wet ascent!

with Simon, Mike
malc 12/Feb/12 2nd O/S
with Joe, Robin
Rick Ashton 07/Feb/12 AltLd
with Jim Graham
Ken Applegate 06/Feb/12 Lead

Good conditions on route. Climbed outside the tunnel pitch, on good ice.

with Ed T, Ed D
bullethead 06/Feb/12 2nd
Anna_wells 04/Feb/12 -
with TIM, Owen F, Tim G
OwenF 04/Feb/12 AltLd O/S

Led 1st and crux pitch. Went up the ice rather than 'subterranean'. Route in good condition but got soaked in the rain.

with Anna, Tim
Tim_Gomersall ?/Feb/12 AltLd
with Owen F, ANNA
Chris Ellyatt 10/Dec/11 AltLd

First Scottish winter climb! Great fun, took my first fall onto an ice screw too. Lots of powder made approad a nightmare, and was very difficult on the climb too.

Hidden 10/Dec/11 AltLd
Steven Andrews 19/Mar/11 Lead O/S

wow that was a tight squeeze, would have been easier on the ice, but I am 6'4"

unbezonking 21/Feb/11 AltLd O/S

Fun, not it´s best condition - me neither !!!

with Roderick Aitken
Eike 21/Feb/11 2nd
rodders24 21/Feb/11 AltLd

1st Gully banked out with Snow so soloed to the fork. Plenty shity debris rained down!!

with Alistair Gray
Julian Prieto 20/Feb/11 AltLd O/S
with Debbie Roberts, Ian Clifford
cliffy 20/Feb/11 AltLd
with Debbie Roberts, Julian Prieto
uncontrollable 20/Feb/11 AltLd O/S

Max led the left hjand finish (Sinister Prong) and strangely enough we manged to finish over the lefthand variation of the variation

with Max
Hidden 19/Feb/11 AltLd
t_stork 19/Feb/11 AltLd

Dam good.

with John, Finlay
CacCarnBeag 19/Feb/11 AltLd

Led last pitch

with John Eccles, Tom Stork
Hidden 17/Feb/11 2nd O/S
colinthrelfall 12/Feb/11 -

A good climb worth its stars.

Rope 12/Feb/11 2nd O/S

Second to colin threfall

Bryan M ?/Feb/11 -
si_green99 27/Jan/11 2nd O/S

A great way to end a week in the highlands. Climbed the ice ramp with looked a lot more appealing than the cave!

Hidden ?/Jan/11 Lead
Hidden 08/Mar/10 AltLd O/S
Col Kingshott ?/Mar/10 AltLd
andymoin 14/Feb/10 AltLd dnf

the climb was melting, we went up the harder left fork and we ran out of time. looks good though

with Alister, telford
Tom Row 23/Jan/10 AltLd O/S

A great adventure!

with Sarah Magee
Pete23 ?/Jan/10 2nd
Charlie wp Hill ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
twoplates 28/Dec/09 2nd

powder swim.... went up there for poachers but it wasn't going to go.....

with dave sharpe
Hidden ?/Jan/09 AltLd O/S
windy100 ??/2009 -
Hidden 20/Feb/08 AltLd dnf
Hidden 04/Feb/08 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2006 Lead
Ken Applegate ?/Jan/04 2nd
with Martin Moran
David Horwood 03/Mar/03 -
Hidden ?/Feb/03 2nd
Jamie B ?/Mar/01 Lead

Abandoned thrutchy through-route in favour of thin ice on the outside.

with Alex Glasgow
crowberry gully 01/Feb/00 AltLd
Tenko ?/Apr/99 -
with Andy Ilston
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High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
High III
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High 5
Mid 5
Low 5
High 4
Mid 4
Low 4
High 3
Mid 3
Low 3
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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