Rockfax Description
A memorable and adventurous tour of the main section of Long Rock Slab. Although protection is sound, the runouts are thought-provoking. Start 3m right of the shallow pillar of Undercracker at a very thin crack.
Take the thin crack to a larger left-leaning crack that leads to the pillar. Gain a small ledge on the top right side of the pillar and move up left to a good break. Step left and up to a good vegetated horizontal break (as for Slip it in Quick) and traverse right to a peg. Climb up flakes to a horizontal break and then pursue a bold line rightwards up positive finger flakes to another vegetated horizontal break. Move right to a thin crack just right of a very slight corner and take this to finish with good gear. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Littlejohn South West Climbs, West Country Climbs, Ultimate E3 ticklist.

felixwilkins 29/Aug/17 Lead O/S
Gabe Oliver 25/Aug/17 Lead O/S

Steady head needed for this. Mainly cause of the super flexy finger flakes and big ol' run outs!

jamesb101 29/Dec/16 2nd O/S
with Stroppy
Stroppy 29/Dec/16 Lead O/S

Definitely has its moments. Moves aren't hard but some of the holds don't feel trustworthy, some of the gear is a bit sketchy and there's a good deal of vegetation thrown in too

JackM92 04/Sep/16 Lead O/S

Bold. Very bold! Tough for 5b, although maybe it just felt that way because of the run out. Protection isn't that sound and the peg wobbles.

with Australian Dave
G Weatherley 03/Jul/16 2nd
with Ed Walker
Mike Dudley 18/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Lead went very smoothly, which was satisfying. Great climbing picking a way up the slab. Biggish runout but overall safe and pro better than expected. Fantastic route.

with Matt Jones
islandlynx 18/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Was planning on getting on 'slip it in quick' but someone was on undercracker. Was probably made easier by the chalk from the other climber up it that day (and not much of an onsight), definitely made it quicker. Ripper's comment below is amazing, someone get him a book deal.

with AmyAmy
AmyAmy 18/Jun/16 2nd

Nice technical balancy climbing on second, scary belaying shane on the run out section!

mike mo ??/2016 -
FelixJT ?/Aug/15 2nd
with stu bradbury
kingholmesy ??/2015 Lead O/S

Quite bold and no pushover, with good climbing all the way.

with Colin
markfromstoke 31/Aug/14 2nd
with ian d f
ian d f 31/Aug/14 Lead O/S
J.A.Thomson 12/Aug/14 TR O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/14 TR O/S
J.A.Thomson ?/Jul/14 TR
jon_gill1 10/Aug/13 2nd O/S

a fantastic route,but definitely not one to fall off!

with ripper
dprctr 10/Aug/13 Lead O/S

My 2nd E3. Quite intense and not over until its over! Had a few scary slips along the way but lots of positive handholds, if a little thin.

with rd20
rd20 10/Aug/13 2nd O/S
with dprctr
ripper 10/Aug/13 Lead O/S

This route had been on mind ever since I visited a whole year ago, August 2012. Back then, at the end of the day, Jon and I had eyed it up and decided it was definitely on - but that was after we'd packed up, with the security of knowing we weren't about to get on it. Since the club planned our return trip to Baggy, back in January, It's been on my mind that I had a date with the Terrapin, so long as conditions were good. Come the day, they could hardly have been better, so I had no excuse. Seconding Lost Horizon and No Sweat were the perfect warm-up. The whole time I kept glancing over at the Terrapin. Every time I thought about it, the fear crept in: did I really want to be up there, way above gear, on thin creaky flakes and tenuous smears? I tried not to think about it. Then it was my turn to lead and no avoiding it any longer. I popped up the first move and placed a small cam, then came back down and tied on. A few metres away people were queuing up for Shangri-La. Climber number six, please. But I felt completely alone. I visualised the first sequence, to the top of the pillar, and began. The fear evaporated and my focus was total - I was fixated on the route. My mind saw it as a series of sequences, between the relative safety of the horizontal breaks. I had told myself there'd be good gear in each break but I found it really hard to get a solid nut. Dodgy-looking brass offsets and a micro cam, then focus, look up, see the sequence, stay calm, breathe easy, and move. Step softly. Pull down on the flakes but don't prise them outwards. Then the peg, the Terror Pin, full stretch and then some. Breathe again but don't stop too long, strike out up the faint line of diminishing flakes and hope I reach the last break before they run out. Finally the vertical finish crack and some solid gear, but a couple of testing moves still to go - no, don't fluff it now! sheer will gets me to the top, a final mantel to elation. The rat has been fed again.

with jon gill
Neil McA 25/Jul/13 2nd O/S

Nice to follow this one - quite bold!

with Stan
ferdia 03/Jul/13 2nd
with burto
burto 03/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with ferdia
Ed morris 13/Jan/13 Lead O/S

Awesome, mainly because its huge.

with Colin
Nick Biven ??/2013 -
treg 22/Sep/12 2nd

Thought Ben was gonna take a huge whipper on this for a moment.

with Ben
Legs 29/Jul/12 2nd O/S

An emotional climb. Sparce gear and the description in the guide book regarding the flakes being "rusty door handles" is very accurate!

with Macca_7
Hidden 29/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Nov/10 Lead O/S
Dave Turnbull, BMC 25/Sep/10 Lead rpt

Led first in late 80s. Serious with a fair bit of lichen/vegetation these days. More like E4 5b/c and don't fall off.

with Martin Doyle
Hidden 16/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 16/Aug/10 Lead O/S
feilx 15/Feb/09 Lead O/S
blahblahblah 14/Sep/08 TR O/S
with Pascal Guilloux
petellis 24/Aug/08 2nd O/S
with alaan
alaan 24/Aug/08 Lead O/S

Current line seems nonnegotiable for lichen and vegetation at the moment - took a parallel line about 10/15ft to the left, prob about E4 5c. Took over an hour to lead!

with Pete
Mark Davies PK ?/Jul/07 2nd O/S
with Fiend
Mark Kemball 27/Oct/06 Lead O/S
with Stu Bradbury
Smelly Fox ?/Aug/04 Lead O/S

With a direct finish at E4 5b/c. Quite bold.

with Gus
Hidden ??/2004 Lead dog
Hidden ??/2000 -
Derek Ryden ?/Apr/95 Lead O/S
with Karin Siemund
Hidden ?/Feb/94 2nd O/S
eroica64 ??/1993 Lead
Hidden 23/Nov/92 TR
Hidden 12/Aug/90 Lead O/S
andy gittins ??/1990 Lead
eroica64 ??/1989 Lead
William Robertson ??/1988 Lead O/S
with Emily
Hidden ?/Mar/87 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1987 Lead
Simon cook ?/Aug/86 -
Hidden 07/Jul/85 Lead O/S
UKB Shark 28/Jul/84 2nd O/S
with Bruce Woodley
jon 15/Nov/81 Lead
with Elaine
mark-abz 05/Apr/81 TR
with Lionell
Hidden ??/1981 Lead
daviesxxx ??/1980 -
Steve Lewis 08/Apr/78 Lead rpt
with Gary
Steve Lewis 27/Feb/77 2nd O/S
with sharpie
turnerk ??/1976 -
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