Rockfax Description
A truly fantastic route that is slightly marred by the fact the first ascensionists drilled several artificial handholds. Inspite of this it gives a complete climbing experience providing everything one could ask for (except perhaps solitude). It is a classic 'must-do' for anyone up to the challenge!
The route is semi-bolted but should not be considered a sport route. Take plenty of quickdraws for all the fixed gear (which is of varying quality). It is also worth taking a set of wires and cams to back up your protection.
Start beneath a rightwards-slanting corner, about 80m left of the start of the rising ramp to Comici-Dimai, and just right of where the white wall of the main face meets an area of black rock on the bottom right-hand corner of Cima Grande.
1) V+, 40m. Climb the initial short crack to enter the corner proper. Follow this before moving right into a second corner. Continue up this to a good stance on the top of a small pillar.
2) V+, 40m. Ignore the pitons above (they are part of Saxon's Superdirettissima - a rarely done route), instead make a rising traverse left over the flake just off the stance. Continue up a second flake and belay on the top, directly below a square-shaped roof.
3) VII+, 30m. Climb up to a small roof and overcome it, finishing slightly left at the top.
4) V+, 25m. Climb the ramp above, moving slightly right at first, before finishing left.
5) VII-, 30m. Climb direct up the wall and belay on the top of another small pillar.
6) VII, 30m. Climb the wall above, past a couple of hard moves leading slightly right, before heading back left along a shallow ramp. Belay on a good ledge.
7) VII-, 35m. Make a short horizontal traverse to the left - hard at first but becoming easier on pockets - until you reach a flake. Overcome this and follow the left-slanting crack to the belay.
8) IV+, 40m. Traverse left until a blank-looking section forces you to down climb slightly to continue to the traverse. Finish by aiming for the terrace beneath the overhanging corners of the crux pitches.
9) VII-, 30m. Climb direct to arrive underneath the prominent line of roofs easily seen from the ground. Make a rising traverse right under these until you get to a hanging stance.
10) VIII, 25m. This is where the real climbing begins. Climb the steep right-trending corner on a series of strenuous undercuts to an uncomfortable stance.
11) VIII, 30m. Continue on the same line following a wider crack, which can be jammed, or use crimps on the right.
12) VIII+, 30m. A stamina crack that is steeper than it looks provides the crux of the route. Climb it, or aid it on all the old pegs as desired.
13) VIII-, 30m. Climb initially right before going left over two athletic overhangs.
14) V+, 40m. Climb the corner above to some welcome easier ground beneath a yellow-looking wall. (If you're running late this is the most comfortable place to spend the night if you don't think you'll make the Ringband Terrace).
15) VI+, 30m. Climb the yellow wall above via a shallow crack-corner until you pass a roof.
16) VI, 40m. Continue up the steep crack above.
17) V, 60m. Follow the final prominent chimney which is often wet and exit onto the Ringband Terrace. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
One of Europe's mosty sought after routes.

Ticklists: Parois-de-legende, Alpine Grande Courses, Euro Alpine Rock.

dan gibson 18/Aug AltLd O/S

Fantastic route. Crux pitches wet but still able to free climb.

with Katerina petkova
katy_abra 18/Aug AltLd
Hidden 17/Jul AltLd
ian bryant ??/2017 -
Hidden 22/Aug/16 AltLd
Uisdean hawthorn 20/Jul/16 AltLd

Amazing. Had food poisoning on the day and the day before. Only had one gel for the whole day. Started french freeing from half way up the stamina crack. Allso pitch 11 in the rockfax discription doesn't exist or is an extra decription of pitch 12. And pitch 9 is harder than VII-.

with susanne
Luis SD 28/Jul/15 AltLd
Alasdair Fulton 17/Jul/15 Lead

Employing Andy's plan of "just getting on the fu**er" seemed to work. Felt fresh and ready at the start of the hard pitches. Due to Andy linking the two 7a pitches I didn't know I was on the crux. Sometimes it's better not to know and accidentally get the onsight! Lifetime tick!

andyinglis 17/Jul/15 AltLd

Brilliant route and great experience after wanting to do this for years! Might have o/s'ed it if I hadn't tried to run the 2 7a pitches together (a fall then a few rests). Fine lead by Ally of the 7a+ pitch! Pretty wasted by the top!

Ellis Bird ?/Jul/15 AltLd

French free 3 out of 4 rather wet hard pitches, (shame)

Hidden 11/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
a pedley 07/Aug/13 AltLd dog

Aided through the 4 crux pitches on the roofs, which we always expected to do to be honest these alone must have taken us 3 hrs to do, all the other pitches quite straightforward with gear where needed and loads of creaky pegs on the cruxes to aid off. Route finding a little difficult on the lower traverse pitch, 13hrs on the route due to slowness on cruxes, a memorable day!!

with Jim Burton
duncan 06/Aug/13 AltLd

2 rest points on 3rd (12; 7a+) and 4th (13; 6c+) hard pitches. Middle pitches were soaking wet but the holds are large and positive so this didn't make much difference. About 10 hours to the ring band (7am-5pm). Rockfax description of 9-13 is confusing, these should be 4 pitches. I think 9 and 10 are different descriptions of the same climbing. As Uisdean says, this should be VIII.

with Hugo Glover
Adam Ellwood 23/Jul/13 AltLd

This was a big day.

Dave Parton 21/Jul/13 -
with Adam Ellwood
edinbed 08/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
Peter Holder 23/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
with Josh Legg
Hidden 20/Aug/11 AltLd
tuftynick 16/Aug/11 AltLd

Not very well on this, very much a passenger!

josh william legg ?/Jul/11 Lead
nige 19/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with richard kirby
Rich Kirby 19/Aug/09 AltLd

A day to remember. Flippin' awesome!

with Nige
Graham Atkins 17/Aug/09 AltLd

The best day's climbing I have ever had. done with Rob & Stu

JulesV 17/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

What an amazing journey! Intimidating and scary all the way with some amazing exposure on the crux pitches. Unforgetable.

with Will Boxen
Hidden 05/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
billb ?/Aug/09 AltLd

Incredible! The exposure and steepness on some of the pitches was out of this world!! All free apart from crux pitches where pulling on gear was essential for me ;-)

mgeek ?/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

Awesome. One of the best routes I have ever climbed. Lead Off-width and crux stamina crack pitches, involved a lot of squirming on wet rock! Not quite Auchinstarry though!

with adam hughes & Jonny Stocking
akhughes ?/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

Amazing route. Not quite comparable to a Gogarth E5, more like several in one day with a whole lot more.

with Jonny Stocking & Mgeek
alpinist63 23/Jul/09 -
lukehunt 04/Jul/09 AltLd

Brilliant. 9h. Aided 1 pitch (6c+ enduro?) due to wetness

with Steve barrat
Hidden ?/Aug/08 AltLd
Steve Bell ?/Aug/03 2nd dog
with Paul Reeve
sadams 23/Jul/01 Lead O/S
with Eric Hildrew
Hidden 03/Aug/99 Lead
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High IX-
Mid IX-
Low IX-
High VIII+
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 11
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set