Rockfax Description
An intimidating pitch on compact rock. The gear is spaced and only just adequate. Take plenty of small wires. Start on a raised ledge just right of the arete.
Climb the sustained wall right of the arete to better small holds that lead left to the arete itself and a spike runner. Progress to the overlap above, step up, and move left, past a peg, to the base of a very shallow depression. Sustained climbing past a couple of good small nut placements gains another peg. Pass this on the right and push on to the top not far above. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A recent fall snapped the last remaining piton, all the runners pulled resulting in a groundfall that the leader was very fortunate to survive. In its present state a grade of E3 orE4 5b is suggested.

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Best slab climbs of the UK, West Country Climbs, Ultimate E2 ticklist, Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 28 Sep TR O/S
Skip 28 Sep TR
with tp45597
with tp45597
EBeck 12 Jul 2nd O/S
PalfreyN 12 Jul Lead O/S
with EBeck
with EBeck
JulesClimbs 10 Jul TR O/S Both Top Roped
with Paul
Both Top Roped
with Paul
th£wrecker 30 Sep, 2018 TR rpt
Hidden 25 Aug, 2018 Lead
simonsnake77 10 Jun, 2018 TR O/S Totally agree with others comments, this would be a very bold lead. We had no idea that a peg had gone and someone had fallen in the past . Hope there ok? Great top rope climb.
with Ben Symonds
Totally agree with others comments, this would be a very bold lead. We had no idea that a peg had gone and someone had fallen in the past . Hope there ok? Great top rope climb.
with Ben Symonds
Oscar Popels 28 Apr, 2018 TR Would have been very scary on lead. Delicate climbing and very little gear.
Would have been very scary on lead. Delicate climbing and very little gear.
badgerjockey 28 Apr, 2018 TR Unique looking rock. Breathtaking line and situation. Glad it was a top rope because with no pegs left the gear is consistently poor, loads of microwire placements but none look properly secure. Marginal at best. Would make for a harrowing lonely lead.
Unique looking rock. Breathtaking line and situation. Glad it was a top rope because with no pegs left the gear is consistently poor, loads of microwire placements but none look properly secure. Marginal at best. Would make for a harrowing lonely lead.
JGriffiths 28 Apr, 2018 TR O/S
danieleaston 28 Apr, 2018 TR
Graeme Hammond 12 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
with Becky E
with Becky E
Alirw 28 May, 2017 TR O/S
dbottomley 26 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S
with lorna
with lorna
Martin Davies 14 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S Great route, technical face climbing. Bit of an eliminate but following the true line is heart stopping climbing!
with Edd Hofman, Pete Brook
Great route, technical face climbing. Bit of an eliminate but following the true line is heart stopping climbing!
with Edd Hofman, Pete Brook
th£wrecker 17 Feb, 2017 Lead dog i weighted the gear I was placing as the foot hold I was on crumbled away gutted really as it was going so smoothly next time maybe
i weighted the gear I was placing as the foot hold I was on crumbled away gutted really as it was going so smoothly next time maybe
whiteexplorer 17 Feb, 2017 2nd O/S
Stanners 22 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S a good test of head game. Second peg no longer there. Loose rock about in the upper half but with care, still enjoyable climbing. A healthy selection of micro wires/small wires is crucial. Good route.
a good test of head game. Second peg no longer there. Loose rock about in the upper half but with care, still enjoyable climbing. A healthy selection of micro wires/small wires is crucial. Good route.
hotrod 26 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
with vera
with vera
Hidden ?Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden 11 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S
G Weatherley 11 Jun, 2016 2nd O/S
Jelly Mould Surfer 23 Apr, 2016 2nd
andy_pemberton 8 Apr, 2016 - Missed top runner and felt very run out heading straight up for the lower off.
with Steve Gibson
Missed top runner and felt very run out heading straight up for the lower off.
with Steve Gibson
JackM92 30 Mar, 2016 Lead Micro wires would have been useful. Good job I didn't fall off!
Micro wires would have been useful. Good job I didn't fall off!
Hidden 29 Dec, 2015 Lead O/S
Jackislav 21 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S Top peg missing, first peg is now essentially a paper-clip. Good route though, techy all the way
Top peg missing, first peg is now essentially a paper-clip. Good route though, techy all the way
Hidden 15 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 15 Aug, 2015 2nd
ferdia 19 Jul, 2015 2nd
Misha 19 Jul, 2015 2nd O/S Easy to second, nervy to lead. The guide book description is apt - just enough (decent) gear. Lots of 5b slab work with some fairly hard bits and the occasional snappy flake.
Easy to second, nervy to lead. The guide book description is apt - just enough (decent) gear. Lots of 5b slab work with some fairly hard bits and the occasional snappy flake.
Andrew Wilson 19 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
Jelly Mould Surfer 17 May, 2015 2nd rpt Felt hard
Felt hard
lukegorman 11 Apr, 2015 2nd O/S
JoeCoxson 11 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S Second E2. Was terrified from the bottom, but made slow and steady progress up. Gear was spaced and a bit fiddly, but never felt overly close to death.
with Darren Pyke, lukegorman
Second E2. Was terrified from the bottom, but made slow and steady progress up. Gear was spaced and a bit fiddly, but never felt overly close to death.
with Darren Pyke, lukegorman
stephen ashworth 15 Mar, 2015 Lead
with Thomas Simpson
with Thomas Simpson
dbrooks 8 Feb, 2015 Lead O/S scary! could've done with some micro wires... awesome route though
with Gareth
scary! could've done with some micro wires... awesome route though
with Gareth
timdi 31 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 19 Jul, 2014 2nd O/S
Dave Turnbull, BMC 18 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
burto 31 May, 2014 Lead
with tom powell
with tom powell
Hidden 26 May, 2014 2nd
dmannion ?May, 2014 Lead β
alexjz 21 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S Superb. Loved every bit of it. Lots of small wires. Found a good amount of pro and built a bunker around the first peg. The second peg is no longer. Amazing friction and very good solid rock. Felt a bit runout but was expecting worse
Superb. Loved every bit of it. Lots of small wires. Found a good amount of pro and built a bunker around the first peg. The second peg is no longer. Amazing friction and very good solid rock. Felt a bit runout but was expecting worse
James Oswald 18 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S Really good. A scary start without much gear got very tired calves so down climbed to the start. The top felt fairly steady. Enough gear and a long but fairly steady runout at the top. Ace. Soft e2
with Ruthyb22
Really good. A scary start without much gear got very tired calves so down climbed to the start. The top felt fairly steady. Enough gear and a long but fairly steady runout at the top. Ace. Soft e2
with Ruthyb22
Mark Kemball 7 Sep, 2013 Lead
with Philip Wilson, Solomon Kemball Dorey
with Philip Wilson, Solomon Kemball Dorey
th£wrecker 1 Jun, 2013 TR O/S wow great climb id like to lead it the top section after the peg is very thin and would be scary on the lead
wow great climb id like to lead it the top section after the peg is very thin and would be scary on the lead
perrys 25 May, 2013 2nd O/S
Pixie-Andy 25 May, 2013 2nd O/S Nearly all balance. I had Numb toes, calves burning & great fun. Would be a scary lead as one mistake early on means decking on nasty awkward placed and sharp rocks.
Nearly all balance. I had Numb toes, calves burning & great fun. Would be a scary lead as one mistake early on means decking on nasty awkward placed and sharp rocks.
robgixer 25 May, 2013 2nd
masa-alpin 25 May, 2013 Lead O/S My first extreme in months! A little sketchy at the initial several metres. Sustained on feet. Belayed by Andy. All my seconds climbed cleanly.
My first extreme in months! A little sketchy at the initial several metres. Sustained on feet. Belayed by Andy. All my seconds climbed cleanly.
Rob84 4 May, 2013 2nd O/S
with Rob Greenwood
with Rob Greenwood
Bristoldave 30 Mar, 2013 Lead O/S
with Caroline
with Caroline
Jelly Mould Surfer 18 Nov, 2012 2nd O/S Checking routes for new guide book. Excellent intense route. Good rock, fantastic moves, super friction - but poorly protected. Top piton gone.
Checking routes for new guide book. Excellent intense route. Good rock, fantastic moves, super friction - but poorly protected. Top piton gone.
Frostie 16 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S Maybe pushed my luck a bit on this climb, expected to find a second peg, but its missing. Didn't have enough small wires but pushed on regardless. good climb.
with Martin Clarke
Maybe pushed my luck a bit on this climb, expected to find a second peg, but its missing. Didn't have enough small wires but pushed on regardless. good climb.
with Martin Clarke
martin clarke 16 Sep, 2012 2nd
with Frostie
with Frostie
Hidden 26 Aug, 2012 TR O/S
climbingchippie 26 Aug, 2012 TR
klo1981 24 Aug, 2012 TR O/S
Hidden 11 Jul, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Jul, 2012 2nd
Ian JL 4 Jun, 2012 Lead rpt
Hidden 6 Apr, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 6 Apr, 2012 2nd
Hidden 6 Apr, 2012 2nd
Ian JL 2 Apr, 2012 2nd
Matt Smith 11 Feb, 2012 Lead O/S Very long run out at top, with a 1/4 nut last bit of gear. Squeaky bum time. Tide almost got us as well. Top peg is missing, but peg in middle is sound.
Very long run out at top, with a 1/4 nut last bit of gear. Squeaky bum time. Tide almost got us as well. Top peg is missing, but peg in middle is sound.
John Tanner 11 Feb, 2012 2nd O/S
Ed morris 28 Oct, 2011 Lead O/S
with ewan
with ewan
ewanthomson 28 Oct, 2011 2nd O/S
climbhannahclimb 28 Sep, 2011 2nd
tim exley 28 Sep, 2011 Lead O/S
Tom Seccombe 28 Sep, 2011 Lead β Tims Beta.
with Harvey
Tims Beta.
with Harvey
steveb2006 26 Sep, 2011 Lead
Hidden 15 Aug, 2011 Lead dnf
Chad123 12 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S Lovely route, sustained and fiddly gear keeps you interested - one thinner section up the scoop and not sure about the pegs! Going up to the right avoids the crux and is not really the point! At high tide requires a ridge traverse and diagonal abseil to escape!
with Ben
Lovely route, sustained and fiddly gear keeps you interested - one thinner section up the scoop and not sure about the pegs! Going up to the right avoids the crux and is not really the point! At high tide requires a ridge traverse and diagonal abseil to escape!
with Ben
climbhannahclimb 6 Jun, 2011 TR O/S
Hidden 5 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 5 Jun, 2011 Lead
Nick Wallis ?May, 2011 Lead
with Laura
with Laura
kdalzell 26 Apr, 2011 2nd
Liam FLeming 26 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
Andrew1 23 Apr, 2011 Lead
with Hulda
with Hulda
Hidden 23 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
Hulda 23 Apr, 2011 2nd
chris m fisher 23 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
with Hulda + Andi
with Hulda + Andi
Marti999 6 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
Will Fuller 19 Mar, 2011 2nd O/S
with Sarp Ackay
with Sarp Ackay
sarpedon ?Mar, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 10 Nov, 2010 Lead O/S
alice fuller 9 Nov, 2010 2nd O/S
Hidden 15 Oct, 2010 2nd
monsteratt 9 Oct, 2010 Lead O/S
Andrew Abraham 9 Oct, 2010 2nd O/S
bunn.aroundthebloc 2 Oct, 2010 Lead O/S Sustained 5b!
with Tom Thorpe
Sustained 5b!
with Tom Thorpe
Hidden ?Oct, 2010 Lead O/S
RHarding 12 Aug, 2010 2nd
jak.kelly 11 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
Dave Lacey 11 Aug, 2010 2nd O/S
feilx 8 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
Okecroak 7 Aug, 2010 2nd
with W. Frost
with W. Frost
decs 3 Jul, 2010 2nd
with David Barlow
with David Barlow
peaches69 21 Jun, 2010 2nd O/S very thin!!!!!!!!!!!!! hard 5b
with rob
very thin!!!!!!!!!!!!! hard 5b
with rob
culmclimberRob 21 Jun, 2010 Lead β 2nd this last year ish sometime, remembered the thread, for a bit of gear, but couldnt remember nout else
with simon crisp
2nd this last year ish sometime, remembered the thread, for a bit of gear, but couldnt remember nout else
with simon crisp
Hidden 15 May, 2010 2nd
Hidden 15 May, 2010 Lead O/S
bigrob 3 May, 2010 2nd O/S
with Mike W
with Mike W
vertically_challenged 16 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S
with BEZ
with BEZ
BEZ 16 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S
with Sam hinton
with Sam hinton
Mike W ?Apr, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2010 -
manwithacam 25 Oct, 2009 Lead I may have strayed from the line a little above the halfway rest
with Martin
I may have strayed from the line a little above the halfway rest
with Martin
culmclimberRob 1 Jan, 2009 2nd
chris sm 11 Jul, 2008 Lead O/S
with Pippa Froggatt
with Pippa Froggatt
mick1jones 15 Sep, 2007 2nd dog
with Mike Guttridge
with Mike Guttridge
Hidden ??, 2007 -
dpmUK 1 Sep, 2006 2nd O/S
with Fiend
with Fiend
ecowaller 23 Jul, 2006 Lead Nice but only E1 5a
with Paula
Nice but only E1 5a
with Paula
Mark Kemball 21 Jun, 2006 Lead
with Stacey Ward
with Stacey Ward
Hidden 8 Jul, 2005 2nd
rockjedi12345 ??, 2004 Lead O/S nice climb, badly protected near top
nice climb, badly protected near top
Hidden 26 Oct, 2003 Lead O/S
spidermonkey ??, 2002 Lead O/S Fantastic climb. Wonderful setting. If you love slabs, you’ll love this
Fantastic climb. Wonderful setting. If you love slabs, you’ll love this
andy_pemberton ?Jul, 2000 Lead 00 quadcam was very nice to protect the top part.
with Katharine Pemberton, Dan Lear
00 quadcam was very nice to protect the top part.
with Katharine Pemberton, Dan Lear
Mark Kemball ??, 1999 Lead
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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 26
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 25
Votes cast 23
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Not Set