UKC

From SMC new route journal:

"Koh-i-nor 185m V,7*. R. Anderson, R Milne, 20th Febuary 2005.

A line up the right side of the face.
Start at the entrance to the left branch of the Central Gully, a short way up from Direct Route (Winter).
1. 30m Climb the obvious slabby looking line up left to belay on the edge right of Direct Route, just below a small crest.
2. 30m Go up right and climb a stepped turfy corner to just below its top, then go up and left around the edge to gain crest.
3. 50m Climb up behind the belay and step up right onto a ledge, then enter a recess and swing out right. Go right again into a grooveand follow this to ledges. Continue up the obvious wide chimneyand move up to a ledge.
4. 50m Climb the obvious line up and right onto the edge, then continue above by a line of turfy iced grooves passing the right side of a narrow, short chimney - presumably taken by one of the easier routes up Central Gully.
5. 25m Easily to the top of the buttress."

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User Date Notes
arose 11 Jan, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: This is on diamond buttress, not church door.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This is on diamond buttress, not church door.

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Route of Interest
Wall of the Early Morning Light, Direct Start

Grade: V 5 ***
(Beinn Bhan)

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