Rockfax Description
IV, 800m, 6 - 8 hours. A major route and one of the best ways for true mountaineers to climb Mont Blanc.
Approach - Get to the Bivouac de la Fourche (see previous page) and spend the night here. From the hut, descend to the Glacier de la Brenva via an abseil (the railing on the hut makes for an ideal anchor) and a short downclimb. Cross the glacier directly towards the start of the route. The final section of the approach is threatened by seracs so don't hang around - about 1 hour from the Bivouac de la Fourche.
If climbing the Original Start (which is done ever more rarely than the G├╝ssfeldt Start) then head directly for Col Moore and climb the snow bay on the right just before reaching the Col.
1) Start under the huge seracs on the right. Cross the bergschrund and motor as fast as possible up steepening snow (up to 55 degrees), hugging the rock buttress on the left to reach the ridge crest.
2) Follow the ridge, which is narrow at first, but then widens and steepens to 45 degrees, until level with the final rock buttress.
3) Pick the best line through the jumble of seracs which guard the top of the route. In good conditions it should be possible to go straight up through them but it is often necessary to make a long rightwards traverse in order to find a way through.
Descent - Walk north to join the Trois Monts Route to the summit of Mont Blanc. Either follow this down to the Aiguille du Midi, or first up to the top of Mont Blanc. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Start changed by a rockfall in 1995. Check the state of the top seracs before starting the climb. Can be climbed in good serac conditions via the Gussfeldt Coulouir to start. Gussfeldt Couloir and its approach are threatened by seracs. Weather needs to be very cold and dont hang around at the start.

Ticklists: Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif, ROCKFAX Chamonix: Top 50.

joelevanschamonix 03/Jun/15 Solo

ski descent.

with Tim Oliver
joelevanschamonix ??/2015 -
Hidden 20/Jun/14 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/2014 -
jcw ??/2013 -
clams ?/Aug/12 2nd

Via Gussfeldt

with Mike+Jim
Malcolm Bass ??/2012 AltLd
with Adrian Mellor
Si ?/Oct/11 -
Ally Baba 14/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

Started via Gussfeldt Coulior which I think is the norm now. Got up the route in 4 hours from hut to summit.

with Kim
Hidden 01/Sep/10 -
Hidden 07/Aug/10 -
Hidden 07/Aug/10 -
Cham32 ??/2009 -

Left Fourche 11.30am - got a bit last in the chaos of serac fall at the foot of the Gussfeld. Turned the upper seracs all the way to the right - summit at 10.30 - Midi station at 3pm in a thunderstorm

Simon4 ?/Jul/95 -

Turned back from Mont Blanc summit due to bad weather

with Wayne Horsfall
AndrewJenkins ??/1994 AltLd
Pete_Frost ?/Jul/92 AltLd

Magnificent route. Enjoyed it even more than the Forbes Arete on the Chardonnet.

with Winky O'Neale
Budge ??/1992 AltLd O/S
with Janet Vince, Brian Ottewell
Tim Sparrow ?/Aug/91 -

Long. Very classic. Wonderful stuff.

with Chris D
Hidden ?/Aug/91 Lead
Hidden ?/Aug/91 -
Hidden ?/Jul/91 AltLd
frost ?/Jul/91 AltLd
with Stone
Hidden ??/1991 AltLd O/S
Simon4 ?/Jul/90 -
with Jim Greaves
Richard Weller ?/Jul/86 -
with john sanders
Hidden ??/1986 -
Hidden ?/Oct/85 -
frank ramsay ??/1985 -
Hidden ??/1981 Solo
Hidden ?/Sep/80 -
Chris Craggs ??/1980 -
alpinist63 ??/1980 -
Hidden ??/1974 -
granitbahn ?/Aug/73 Solo
54 users have this on their wishlist
High D
Mid D
Low D
High D-
Mid D-
Low D-
High AD+
Mid AD+
Low AD+
Votes cast 3
High 4
Mid 4
Low 4
High 3
Mid 3
Low 3
High 2
Mid 2
Low 2
Votes cast 4
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set