Rockfax Description
Sustained and pleasant climbing with a well-positioned top crack. The first 9m are not well-protected. Start at a good nut belay just right of a narrow chimney. Move up a flake-crack and take the wall above to a move right into a triangular niche. Climb to the next horizontal break, step left, and follow the delightful face-crack to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

West Country Climbs, CUC Climbing Club, Part 2: Hidden Gems, Adventures & Harder Offerings, Target Routes 2019/2020

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
lithos 10 Sep Lead great holds and gear, not hard. watched the fantastic sunset after :)
great holds and gear, not hard. watched the fantastic sunset after :)
Pete Wimbush 10 Sep Lead O/S
with Steve Crossley
with Steve Crossley
peterbradshaw101 10 Sep 2nd
with lithos
with lithos
bigrob 30 Aug 2nd
with si hammond, joel perkins
with si hammond, joel perkins
simonhammond1966 30 Aug Lead Lovely route
with Rob Byrom, Joel Perkin
Lovely route
with Rob Byrom, Joel Perkin
Joel Perkin 30 Aug -
Hidden 18 Aug Lead O/S
Darrell Read 18 Aug 2nd
callumjleese@gmail.com 14 Jul -
Tommy yorke 21 Jun Lead rpt
with Oscar jones
with Oscar jones
Jevo 19 Jun 2nd rpt
with Donesy
with Donesy
Donesy 19 Jun Lead rpt
with Jevo
with Jevo
Hidden 25 May Lead O/S
Hidden 25 May 2nd
climbdevon 25 May -
JagoNeath 18 May 2nd
with Cbulman
with Cbulman
Cbulman 18 May Lead O/S
KernowCrag 11 May 2nd O/S
with Lewis_F
with Lewis_F
Lewis_F 11 May Lead O/S Lower end HVS I felt, a similar level to the last pitch of little brown jug. Start didn't feel particularly bold with gear all up the starting crack. Would be much improved by finishing up the E1/2 blind Furry instead of trending back left though. Nice route still.
Lower end HVS I felt, a similar level to the last pitch of little brown jug. Start didn't feel particularly bold with gear all up the starting crack. Would be much improved by finishing up the E1/2 blind Furry instead of trending back left though. Nice route still.
Pirate Porkins 4 May 2nd O/S Really great route. Super stoked I got this onsight. Did this after doing The Royal Forester. This route felt more technical and more my kind of climbing. Some balancy fun moves. Great technical moves. I made the crux well, was super stoked. Feel like I climbed this really well :) A well earned clean HVS 5a
Really great route. Super stoked I got this onsight. Did this after doing The Royal Forester. This route felt more technical and more my kind of climbing. Some balancy fun moves. Great technical moves. I made the crux well, was super stoked. Feel like I climbed this really well :) A well earned clean HVS 5a
Sebastien Gastaud 23 Apr 2nd O/S
Hidden 23 Apr -
Bruise Apprentice 23 Apr Lead O/S Really nice. It goes with a bit of commitment at the crux (you'll make the moves above your gear).
Really nice. It goes with a bit of commitment at the crux (you'll make the moves above your gear).
Kirill 21 Apr Lead
Ilia Nadyrbayev 21 Apr 2nd
with Kirill
with Kirill
yllo 21 Apr 2nd What a fantastic route. So wish I had lead this. Great place to relax in the evening sunshine.
with Diccon
What a fantastic route. So wish I had lead this. Great place to relax in the evening sunshine.
with Diccon
Tommy yorke 20 Apr Lead rpt Such a good route !!
with Alan Dovey , Skip
Such a good route !!
with Alan Dovey , Skip
Lizard Ollie 20 Apr 2nd rpt
Skip 20 Apr 2nd
JoeCoxson 20 Apr 2nd rpt Awesome route for an evening
Awesome route for an evening
Wendy Watthews 20 Apr Lead rpt
Jonathangardner 19 Apr Lead O/S Tricky first bit, particular after scaring myself by pulling off a largish chunk of rock before I had placed my first piece of protection. Sorry everyone, not sure if that makes it harder now for all. Bit of a quicker outing than the previous Forester one. 2hrs door to door. Still seems like I must be climbing slowly though. Naomi sped up it seconding.
Tricky first bit, particular after scaring myself by pulling off a largish chunk of rock before I had placed my first piece of protection. Sorry everyone, not sure if that makes it harder now for all. Bit of a quicker outing than the previous Forester one. 2hrs door to door. Still seems like I must be climbing slowly though. Naomi sped up it seconding.
Steve Waters, Mynydd 18 Apr 2nd
mtempest 18 Apr Lead
EllieWoods 24 Mar 2nd O/S
timreynolds 24 Mar Lead O/S
henrygiles99 28 Feb Lead O/S First HVS, wheeey!
with Paul
First HVS, wheeey!
with Paul
janegallwey 24 Feb 2nd
KernowCrag 24 Feb 2nd O/S
Jim blackford 24 Feb Lead O/S VS if not for bold start (dmm size 0)
VS if not for bold start (dmm size 0)
Hidden ?? Lead
Hidden 9 Dec, 2018 Lead rpt
Shone 17 Jul, 2018 2nd Committing start, beautiful above!
with Neil
Committing start, beautiful above!
with Neil
Hidden 20 Jun, 2018 2nd
Small and weak 20 Jun, 2018 Lead
Hidden 12 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
Rob84 12 Jun, 2018 2nd O/S
with TimAshlin, Si White
with TimAshlin, Si White
Jevo 7 Jun, 2018 TR
with Donesy
with Donesy
Donesy 6 Jun, 2018 TR O/S Didn't come across anything as tough as the crux on 'Royal forester (4c)' but what a route and what a location. Would agree with HVS but no way is it a 5A if RF is only 4C.
with Jevo
Didn't come across anything as tough as the crux on 'Royal forester (4c)' but what a route and what a location. Would agree with HVS but no way is it a 5A if RF is only 4C.
with Jevo
Nigel Coe 29 Apr, 2018 Lead
with Amnon
with Amnon
Ian.ch 31 Mar, 2018 2nd
with Celso
with Celso
cem 31 Mar, 2018 Lead rpt
with mskngch
with mskngch
mskngch 31 Mar, 2018 2nd
with cem
with cem
lusonavigator 29 Mar, 2018 - A bit intimidated at the start but past the not as hard as expected initial crux it unveiled itself as beautifully pocketed and steep greenstone gem.
with Ian.ch
A bit intimidated at the start but past the not as hard as expected initial crux it unveiled itself as beautifully pocketed and steep greenstone gem.
with Ian.ch
Rob Seymour 22 Oct, 2017 Lead O/S The afternoon after Hurricane Brian blew through, still high winds and not (quite) raining. Dave and Bob too cold and windblown to follow. Would like to do this again on a better day and enjoy it rather than just fighting up it..
with Bob Watson, Dave Viggers
The afternoon after Hurricane Brian blew through, still high winds and not (quite) raining. Dave and Bob too cold and windblown to follow. Would like to do this again on a better day and enjoy it rather than just fighting up it..
with Bob Watson, Dave Viggers
Hidden 19 Oct, 2017 2nd rpt
Andy Clarke 25 Sep, 2017 Lead O/S A fine climb in a fine location. On arrival Phil commented, "I want to mow it, not climb it!" but the sea grass doesn't detract at all from the quality of the climbing. Quite committing moves to gain the niche, then great jug pulling all the way to the top. Lovely view.
A fine climb in a fine location. On arrival Phil commented, "I want to mow it, not climb it!" but the sea grass doesn't detract at all from the quality of the climbing. Quite committing moves to gain the niche, then great jug pulling all the way to the top. Lovely view.
PhilIpGBailey 25 Sep, 2017 2nd
J.A.Thomson 23 Sep, 2017 Lead O/S I would say its only hs but with the starte its probably vs and for tech grad 4b, i climbed the armchair at bosigran the next day and wo what a differece in hvs 5a but would say the armchair grad right
I would say its only hs but with the starte its probably vs and for tech grad 4b, i climbed the armchair at bosigran the next day and wo what a differece in hvs 5a but would say the armchair grad right
Hidden ?Sep, 2017 2nd O/S
rd20 30 Aug, 2017 2nd rpt
with Katy, Peri
with Katy, Peri
Hidden 19 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
Hidden 3 Aug, 2017 Lead rpt
Hidden 27 Jul, 2017 TR O/S
Tommy yorke 15 Jul, 2017 Lead rpt Went back to lead it today and enjoyed it even more great route glad to have a partner and get it done properly
with Skip
Went back to lead it today and enjoyed it even more great route glad to have a partner and get it done properly
with Skip
Skip 15 Jul, 2017 2nd
Tommy yorke 8 Jul, 2017 TR O/S Wish I had saved this route for the onsight lead but didn't have a partner for the day so had an alone mission on the crag today top rope soloed the the route great route went to the bottom again and climbed it placing the gear not immediately obvious but is there think it would be quite a bit different on lead just need a partner to go back and climb it right
Wish I had saved this route for the onsight lead but didn't have a partner for the day so had an alone mission on the crag today top rope soloed the the route great route went to the bottom again and climbed it placing the gear not immediately obvious but is there think it would be quite a bit different on lead just need a partner to go back and climb it right
Hidden 3 Jun, 2017 2nd O/S
Mark Stevenson 3 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
Rob Davies 30 May, 2017 2nd Found easier way of doing crux this time.
with Angus McLean, Phil A
Found easier way of doing crux this time.
with Angus McLean, Phil A
bpmclimb 16 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S A quality route, which is considerably easier than appearances suggest.
A quality route, which is considerably easier than appearances suggest.
Huntlyfiddler 16 Apr, 2017 2nd O/S
Hidden ?Apr, 2017 Lead
nicks ?Apr, 2017 2nd
DredStripe 20 Jan, 2017 2nd O/S
with Cusco
with Cusco
Hidden 24 Nov, 2016 Lead O/S
Mary Hamilton 24 Nov, 2016 2nd
with jake
with jake
Ian MK 27 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
Anna Maykova 27 Jul, 2016 2nd
with Ian MK
with Ian MK
littleduck 31 May, 2016 2nd No harder than forester
with Tony Madden
No harder than forester
with Tony Madden
Rob Davies 25 May, 2016 2nd Phil avoided all the big footholds at the crux move R!
with Phil A
Phil avoided all the big footholds at the crux move R!
with Phil A
harold walmsley 21 May, 2016 2nd O/S Found it easier than Forester
with Chris Calow
Found it easier than Forester
with Chris Calow
arandall 9 Apr, 2016 2nd rpt
Wendy Watthews 9 Apr, 2016 Lead rpt Delightful as ever
Delightful as ever
rd20 27 Aug, 2015 2nd rpt
with Sally Guildford MC
with Sally Guildford MC
Hidden 27 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
andrea83 29 Jul, 2015 2nd rpt Good lead from Hamish
Good lead from Hamish
Hamish777 29 Jul, 2015 Lead β Wonderful route.
Wonderful route.
Hidden 8 Jul, 2015 2nd O/S
bryan61 8 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
with Mr Cess
with Mr Cess
Matt77 6 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
RyanOsborne 6 Jul, 2015 2nd
with Matt77
with Matt77
DaveX 21 Jun, 2015 2nd β
afrosam 21 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 28 May, 2015 2nd
Wendy Watthews 28 May, 2015 Lead rpt
with cuc
with cuc
Lizard Ollie 28 May, 2015 2nd O/S
Hidden 22 May, 2015 2nd rpt
Lumbering Oaf 26 Apr, 2015 2nd O/S nice route. Bit easy for HVS?
nice route. Bit easy for HVS?
Chimnastics 26 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S VS 4c. Easier than Forester.
VS 4c. Easier than Forester.
beni 26 Apr, 2015 2nd
Norman_P_W 7 Apr, 2015 Lead
with CSW
with CSW
Wendy Watthews 24 Jan, 2015 2nd rpt
JoeCoxson 24 Jan, 2015 Lead O/S Amazing climb, the top section is definitely delightful
Amazing climb, the top section is definitely delightful
lukegorman 24 Jan, 2015 Lead
nickstephens 20 Dec, 2014 Lead O/S
with gg4419
with gg4419
gg4419 20 Dec, 2014 2nd O/S
Martin Bennett 15 Sep, 2014 -
with Ali
with Ali
alice fuller 9 Sep, 2014 2nd O/S
with gcoiley
with gcoiley
eel 8 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
with Ted
with Ted
th£wrecker 7 Sep, 2014 TR O/S
with shunt
with shunt
cem 2 Sep, 2014 Lead rpt A repeat but I'd not led it before.
A repeat but I'd not led it before.
petegruf 2 Sep, 2014 2nd
with cem
with cem
Hamish777 29 Jul, 2014 2nd O/S Very good indeed, sustained.
Very good indeed, sustained.
andrea83 29 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S Brilliant route and so much better than you would imagine as you stare at the mossy crag from the bottom! Plenty of gear.
Brilliant route and so much better than you would imagine as you stare at the mossy crag from the bottom! Plenty of gear.
hazeysunshine 19 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
with Joan
with Joan
Hidden 17 Jul, 2014 2nd O/S
Hidden 6 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
hotfeet 13 Jun, 2014 Lead
leerybunny 27 May, 2014 Lead
with Ryan Newman
with Ryan Newman
Hidden 17 May, 2014 2nd
Samuel Palmer 17 May, 2014 2nd O/S *** VS 4c
with tp45597
*** VS 4c
with tp45597
Hidden 17 May, 2014 Lead rpt
jhb0510 10 May, 2014 2nd rpt Really Windy!
with Luke Randall
Really Windy!
with Luke Randall
Robin Woodward ?May, 2014 Lead
Hidden ?Mar, 2014 Lead O/S
gg4419 ??, 2014 2nd O/S
janegallwey ??, 2014 Lead
rd20 15 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
with Len
with Len
masa-alpin 14 Aug, 2013 Lead rpt
with Dave W-J
with Dave W-J
Hidden ?Aug, 2013 2nd
floppers ?Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
with Robin
with Robin
leon 26 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S Saw a snake covered in diamonds on the way in. Rushed the route to get to the Tinner for tea only to find they only served posh grub!!!
with alj
Saw a snake covered in diamonds on the way in. Rushed the route to get to the Tinner for tea only to find they only served posh grub!!!
with alj
gowla 25 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
with Sara
with Sara
Hidden 9 Jun, 2013 TR O/S
jhb0510 2 May, 2013 2nd O/S Alan gave me a slightly tighter rope than is fair over the crux!
with Alan Dovey
Alan gave me a slightly tighter rope than is fair over the crux!
with Alan Dovey
chrisallan 27 Apr, 2013 2nd O/S
Hidden 31 Mar, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2013 Lead O/S
Batt 24 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S VS 4c, no way this is any harder, it's like a nice big ladder full of gear! Lovely climbing
with Hoyes
VS 4c, no way this is any harder, it's like a nice big ladder full of gear! Lovely climbing
with Hoyes
Batt 24 Aug, 2012 2nd rpt
Jim Malo 24 Aug, 2012 Lead dog
with Zebra
with Zebra
Hidden 24 Aug, 2012 2nd O/S
spragglerocks 24 Aug, 2012 Lead β
with Batt
with Batt
Hoyes 24 Aug, 2012 2nd O/S
with Batt
with Batt
Mark Kemball 29 Jul, 2012 Lead
Hidden 26 Jul, 2012 Lead O/S
Mike_Hayes 15 Jul, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 15 Jul, 2012 2nd
Hidden 30 Jun, 2012 Lead
ian d f 25 Jun, 2012 Lead O/S
with Beth H, Pete C
with Beth H, Pete C
bunn.aroundthebloc 31 May, 2012 2nd rpt
with Joe Harris
with Joe Harris
MinHazeldine 17 May, 2012 2nd O/S
arandall 5 May, 2012 Lead O/S
Wendy Watthews 5 May, 2012 2nd O/S
aljezurusrf08 28 Jan, 2012 2nd dog
Elmo9090 ??, 2012 2nd O/S
with Tim Fairhall
with Tim Fairhall
Bob Peters ??, 2012 -
goi.ashmore 29 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S Really excellent
with Roy Thomas
Really excellent
with Roy Thomas
bunn.aroundthebloc 15 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S Hvs for the start, VS at the traverse. 3 Stars!
with Tom Thorpe
Hvs for the start, VS at the traverse. 3 Stars!
with Tom Thorpe
Hidden 3 Aug, 2011 2nd
Hidden 3 Aug, 2011 Lead
Country_Boy 24 Jul, 2011 2nd O/S
Dilwat 22 Jul, 2011 Lead The higher you get the better it gets!
with Alex, Dominic
The higher you get the better it gets!
with Alex, Dominic
thomasaneurinsmith 1 Jul, 2011 2nd O/S
with Stuart Reeves
with Stuart Reeves
stuaart 1 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S Maybe it's given HVS due to being relatively high above gear for hardish move lower down? The rest is definitely VS though.
Maybe it's given HVS due to being relatively high above gear for hardish move lower down? The rest is definitely VS though.
Tom Last 22 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S As good as they come and good gear throughout, easier than Royal Forrester though - VS 4c.
with Andy2
As good as they come and good gear throughout, easier than Royal Forrester though - VS 4c.
with Andy2
haylow 14 Jun, 2011 2nd
jakenichol 14 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S Bit sketchy on lower section but upper crack is a dream...
with haylow
Bit sketchy on lower section but upper crack is a dream...
with haylow
Bob M 31 May, 2011 Lead
Norman_P_W 31 May, 2011 2nd
with Bob M
with Bob M
mbradberry2008 22 May, 2011 Lead O/S
flyinfrenchy 22 May, 2011 2nd O/S
masa-alpin 28 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
with Jo B, Doug S
with Jo B, Doug S
Rob Davies 16 Sep, 2010 Lead Very good climbing, loads of holds and good gear, though VS 4c might be fairer
with Phil A
Very good climbing, loads of holds and good gear, though VS 4c might be fairer
with Phil A
Hidden 7 Sep, 2010 2nd
GraMc ?Sep, 2010 Lead O/S
with kat torr, emily roo
with kat torr, emily roo
Hidden 5 Jul, 2010 2nd
Hidden 23 May, 2010 2nd O/S
Hidden ??, 2010 -
Master Chief 16 Oct, 2009 Lead O/S Amazing! 3stars!!
Amazing! 3stars!!
mattparratt 25 Jun, 2009 TR Definitely one to come back and lead next summer
Definitely one to come back and lead next summer
Marc Elliott 7 May, 2009 Lead O/S Bloody lovely route - well worth seeking out.
with Ben
Bloody lovely route - well worth seeking out.
with Ben
cornishben 6 May, 2009 2nd rpt The CC description 'poorly protected' is misleading, as it isn't!
with Marc Elliot
The CC description 'poorly protected' is misleading, as it isn't!
with Marc Elliot
Duncan Skelton 10 Apr, 2009 Lead rpt
with Jamie Marrison
with Jamie Marrison
Mark Kemball 5 Apr, 2008 Lead
with Stu Bradbury
with Stu Bradbury
Peter Reynolds ??, 2008 Lead
cornishben 13 Apr, 2007 Lead O/S In a slight drizzle..
with barnaby carver
In a slight drizzle..
with barnaby carver
Richard Horn 3 Mar, 2007 Lead O/S
dan gibson 27 Aug, 2006 Lead O/S
with helen gibson
with helen gibson
cem 15 Apr, 2006 2nd
with GrahamD
with GrahamD
chris sm ?Aug, 2003 Lead O/S
with Pippa Froggatt
with Pippa Froggatt
alex_th ?Aug, 2002 Lead O/S
with Royston Smith
with Royston Smith
Hidden ?Aug, 2001 Lead
Boxy 27 Aug, 2000 2nd
Hidden 9 Aug, 2000 Lead O/S
alan moore ??, 2000 -
nickdonohue ??, 2000 Lead
with Simon Reynolds
with Simon Reynolds
Hidden 31 May, 1999 2nd O/S
lost.arrow 30 May, 1999 -
with Tim Malone
with Tim Malone
craig h 27 Jul, 1997 Lead O/S
with Janet Hannah
with Janet Hannah
Hidden ?May, 1997 Lead O/S
Iain Brown 25 Oct, 1995 -
with Phil
with Phil
colin milton 15 Oct, 1994 Lead
with eric milton
with eric milton
Mark Kemball 25 Jul, 1994 Lead
with Matt Vigg
with Matt Vigg
tompercy 15 Mar, 1994 Lead
with Chris Lear
with Chris Lear
Marti999 ??, 1993 Lead
with kev
with kev
BigHairyIan 30 Dec, 1988 Lead O/S
with Geff (sic)
with Geff (sic)
Hidden 6 Apr, 1985 2nd
DonnyDave 10 Aug, 1980 Lead
with Ian Freebie
with Ian Freebie
Hidden ??, 1979 -
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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 53
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 53
Votes cast 52
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Not Set