70m, 3 pitches.
Start on a subsidiary buttress to the left of the gully (containing a pinnacle) at the left hand end of the main crag.
1. Climb the prominent T-shaped crack to it's top and traverse horizontally right to cross the gully and belay behind the pinnacle. (NB: On a later visit this pitch was completely overgrown with ivy).
2. Move up and right round the rib to a semi hand traverse below steep rock to a stance just around the next rib.
3. Traverse around the bay on the right to reach the foot of the groove of Central Groove and continue horizontally right across ribs and grooves to the right hand end of the crag.
or (Much Better)
3a From the bottom of Central Groove move up right onto the steep wall and continue to the top in fine position and on good holds.
1. Climb the prominent T-shaped crack to it's top and traverse horizontally right to cross the gully and belay behind the pinnacle. (NB: On a later visit this pitch was completely overgrown with ivy).
2. Move up and right round the rib to a semi hand traverse below steep rock to a stance just around the next rib.
3. Traverse around the bay on the right to reach the foot of the groove of Central Groove and continue horizontally right across ribs and grooves to the right hand end of the crag.
or (Much Better)
3a From the bottom of Central Groove move up right onto the steep wall and continue to the top in fine position and on good holds.
K E Jacks, A C Griffiths May/1975.
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