Restricted Access
Update: June 2023 - there is a Rock Pipit nesting at the base of the crack on 'Vice is Nice'. Please take care in this area to minimise disturbance - you can climb the route but avoid placing protection or jamming in this part of the crack. The nest is obvious and can be avoided with a bit of care. B
Beware of unstable rock in the following sections:
Below Munchies - rock fall from about 2014
John Wayne/Charisma - Loose rock in first 6m
Test Case - the base of the right side of the big flake has fallen off but following the left side of flake is fine
D-Day - large loose blocks directly above the mid height Belay
April 2021 - Space Cadet - be aware that some blocks have fallen out of the steep section above the ledge. - it's been climbed since at the same grade but might have wobbly holds!
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Choughs nesting on St Govan's Head and a seasonal restriction (1st March - 1st Aug.) now applies for the routes "Draught Dodger" to" D-Day" inclusive. Climbers can still walk below these routes to access routes beyond the restricted area but please do not linger below this section. (See signs at abseil points)
Further right, the St. Govan's Head seasonal sea-bird climbing restriction (1st Mar - 1st Aug) continues to apply between Safety in Numbers and Aquarius/Zodiac .
Rockfax Description
The centre of the rockfall scar has some fixed gear. Start on the right then climb the centre of the wall on slightly friable rock. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Climbs the centre of the rockfall scar passing 2 pegs and a thread enroute. Despite apperances the rock is solid if a little snappy on the footholds. Deserving of more attention. Has been climbed at E6 without the fixed gear by Lucy Creamer.
FA. G.Gibson, R.Thomas 18/Oct/2009.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Ramon Marin | 28 Jul, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Abbed down the line as i was curious. It’s pretty dirty and scrittly, and looks pretty hard too. The pegs are in good condition. The thread is cac, but there’s good n.1 wire next to it. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Abbed down the line as i was curious. It’s pretty dirty and scrittly, and looks pretty hard too. The pegs are in good condition. The thread is cac, but there’s good n.1 wire next to it. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for St. Govan's Head
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The Land That Time Forgot
Grade: E5 6a ***
(Mount Sion Central)