200m, 6 pitches. 200 meter gully, good ice, last pitch has a few meters of mixed to get out of the gully.

gian carlo grassi et al Jan/1986

msjhes2 07/Feb AltLd

Great route, mixed exit was interesting - thin maybe?

with clegg, smithaldo
Tommy Harris 18/Jan AltLd O/S

Good warm up route for the week although a tad thin in places.

Andre Clarke 18/Jan AltLd rpt

Very thin. The thinnest I ever seen it and 4th time of did route.

Tim Bateman 07/Jan Lead
with Alistair Crawford, Nick Horton, George Bird
DaveThexton 06/Jan AltLd O/S
Phil_Brock 05/Jan 2nd O/S

With Eric from Chamex. Very lean conditions making it tricky / delicate in places but absolutely raced up this in ~1.5hrs. Interesting climbing on all the pitches, absolutely great route. Very little snow below the gully so had to approach via the forest to the left - brutal!

Cragcloud 14/Dec/18 AltLd O/S

In very thin conditions. Did not see any screw holes, so we might have opened the route that season

pugilistswine 08/Mar/18 AltLd

brilliant route. Mixed pitch was dry throughout and quite sketchy. Superb day out.

Hooo 08/Mar/18 2nd O/S
with James, Matteo
stevelismore 10/Feb/18 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 1,2,3 and 6. Mick led 4 and 5. Pitch 5 had a short but tough mixed section so well done Mick. Lots of traffic on this very popular route so some crowded belay stations at times! Walked off the back. Best route of the week.

with Mick Bailes
samkat 10/Feb/18 AltLd

Chris led pitch 1, 3 & 6. I led pitch 2, 4 & 5. Was relatively easy climb except for the mixed 5th crux pitch where we went right way.

peakschris 10/Feb/18 AltLd O/S

Led P1,3,6. Samir led the others including the crux pitch 5 (right hand option).

with samkat
YellowFellow 03/Feb/18 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 2, 4, 5 (crux). Mixed pitch (RH-variant) is almost completely dry, hard to protect, goes at M4+/M5.

with Edouard
Andre Clarke 26/Jan/18 Lead rpt

Huge snow banks making ice pitches alot shorter than usual. Plus was dry tooling pitch also longer and more interesting. Goes at M5

steveb2006 23/Jan/18 Lead
with Ian Cartwright
Bezz 18/Jan/18 2nd
with mp.b
Hidden 16/Jan/18 AltLd O/S
Rob Royle 12/Mar/17 Lead
Hidden 02/Mar/17 2nd O/S
Hidden 22/Feb/17 Lead
Tim Rodgers 14/Feb/17 AltLd
John Roe 13/Feb/17 Lead

Late start today and successfully avoided the crowds.

with Paul "Chip" Rafferty
Mike Bovill 12/Feb/17 2nd O/S
AdrianB 10/Feb/17 -

Just great fun, good crack with guide and client in front. Entertaining root move to exit!

with DSM
DSM 10/Feb/17 Lead O/S
with AdrianB
Hidden 01/Feb/17 -
Piglet69 23/Jan/17 2nd

with guide

niallsash 23/Jan/17 AltLd
Annabel Tall 16/Jan/17 2nd
NielsC 06/Mar/16 -
with Richard Bridle
coachmacca 03/Mar/16 2nd dnf

First few pitches only due to time

Hidden 01/Mar/16 AltLd
Rob Royle 24/Feb/16 Lead
with gavster
scarmichael 23/Feb/16 AltLd
gavster 23/Feb/16 2nd
with rob
Marc Langley 23/Feb/16 AltLd O/S
with Steven Carmichael
steveboote 12/Feb/16 AltLd

Bit sparce on ice...some entertaining dry tooling

with Vic Belshaw
Hidden 12/Feb/16 AltLd
Jamie Johnston 10/Feb/16 2nd
with Eric Jamet
philhilo 08/Feb/16 AltLd O/S

Much snow wading.

with Dave rickerby, ian wyatt
picasso 05/Feb/16 AltLd
with harry mccafferty
Grant Fulton 02/Feb/16 AltLd
with James
Hidden 02/Feb/16 Lead
Jameskelly200 ?/Feb/16 -
with Simon logan, Andy Wilson
konna 28/Jan/16 2nd
John Roe 28/Jan/16 Lead
with Paul "Chip" Rafferty, konna
buxtoncoffeelover 26/Jan/16 AltLd

P1 David, P2 me & solo, P3 David, P4 me, P5 David, P6 me. Awesome route, in leanish condition. Hard approach walk & long walk off

drgrange 26/Jan/16 Lead O/S

Led p1, solo p2, led p3, Nik did p4, then I did the mixed p5 and Nik finished up choss shoot p6. Amazing route, amazing day. Lean conditions but didn't feel the need to place rock gear on the mixed pitch

Hidden 24/Jan/16 AltLd O/S
TeeBee 13/Jan/16 Lead

Knee/thigh-deep snow, thinnish ice - 7 hrs

with Colin H.
Hidden ?/Jan/16 Lead O/S
jamesgr87 20/Mar/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Mar/15 -
jonleighton 23/Feb/15 AltLd

Good fun except for the last pitch. A bit soft as we started late due to compounded navigational fuck ups!

Hidden 19/Feb/15 AltLd O/S
Gumery 18/Feb/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 18/Feb/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Feb/15 AltLd O/S
clmacdonald 14/Feb/15 AltLd O/S
tskelhon 14/Feb/15 AltLd
DigitalSteak 13/Feb/15 AltLd
Hidden 13/Feb/15 AltLd
John sealey 05/Feb/15 Lead
manxclare 05/Feb/15 2nd
kelly_426 03/Feb/15 Lead
with LDudill
AndrewP 01/Feb/15 Lead O/S

Great route! Did it in 5 pitches. The mixed pitch was actually well iced - no nuts needed.

with Mary Eggins, Jason Thomas
eaf4 22/Jan/15 AltLd

Graeme T. & Brian S. Snow plod up, buupclimb got better with every pitch!

gst 22/Jan/15 AltLd O/S

Great route, best of the week despite breaking trail up boulder field. Gt. M. Blanc views when it cleared later in day.

with Euan Fowler, Brian Shackleton
steveb2006 19/Jan/15 Lead
Nemmie ?/Jan/15 Lead
Colin Scotchford 25/Feb/14 AltLd
paulmck 19/Feb/14 AltLd O/S
with ruaidh
ruaidh 19/Feb/14 AltLd
with Paul Mckenzie, maninblack
maninblack 19/Feb/14 AltLd
with ruaidh
BlackheathDiggs 03/Feb/14 2nd
Hidden 24/Jan/14 AltLd
Rob Royle 24/Jan/14 2nd
with Mountain Guide, Steph
maybe_si 18/Jan/14 AltLd O/S
Tim Bateman 17/Jan/14 Lead
with Nick Beale
TeeBee 08/Jan/14 AltLd O/S
with Tom
Big Lee 02/Jan/14 AltLd O/S

Led the 4th and 5th pitches (plus the easy snow slope on P2). Ice was in excellent condition. 4th pitch mixed at the top.

with annak
annak 02/Jan/14 AltLd

Brilliant fun.

with Big Lee
Moritz L 31/Dec/13 AltLd O/S

great climb. I led the M4+ bit, which was quite iced over but still offered great climbing. possibly best pitch I led on the holiday

David Kay 31/Dec/13 AltLd O/S
ilbuiz 22/Dec/13 AltLd O/S
with Reddine
Hidden 19/Dec/13 AltLd O/S
benclimbing 19/Dec/13 AltLd O/S

If this route was in Scotland it would mean a number of Scottish 4 star routes would be downgraded to 3 star. It's THAT good! Soft ice, bolted belays, strong line and to top it off some M4 action! We climbed it in lean condition which was incredibly satisfying and a bit uncertain at times. Pitch 1 had some thin ice but some good places for screws. 30 metres and a bit of 80 degrees. Then a bit of a snow plod to pitch 2 which was a narrow gully at about Scottish grade 3. Pitch 3 was toffee ice to a mixed wall which I think is usually ice but this time involved a couple of nuts, a hand jam and some tree root pulling! Pitch 4 started with a bit of technical ice and moved up into a chimney (M4+) which was the crux and the highlight of the route. The final pitch involved easy mixed (including trees!) to the top and the easy walk off. Absolutely superb. My desert island route

Olli-C 21/Feb/13 AltLd O/S

Only lead the easy snow pitches. Lots of teams on the route, luckily we were in front. The guide behind us said the mixed pitch had more ice on it than he'd ever seen (which explains why there wasn't any real mixed climbing) apparently much easier than normal. Very fun route.

with Frank, Rachel Slater
Rachel Slater 21/Feb/13 AltLd O/S

Lead 2 of the easy snow field pitches. Awesome gully with more climbing than I expected! 7 Hours door to door.

with Frank, Olli-C
darrencabowabo 18/Feb/13 2nd

Excellent multipitch climb with some mixed action at the top.

SteveK 16/Feb/13 AltLd O/S
with Julian Williams
Chubbard 13/Feb/13 AltLd O/S

Bit disappointing for 3 stars. The M4+ bit was about a metre long.

with C Godfrey
John Roe 09/Feb/13 Lead

Fantastic route with excellent pitches, justifiably popular.

with Rich Long
alpinestar_no1 02/Feb/13 AltLd O/S

Nice day out, quite easy for the grade, lucky enough to get the mixed pitch. PS bring the bags up, there is a marked path down on the other side, 40 mins easy walk down.

blahblahblah 02/Feb/13 AltLd O/S
with Mike McKenna
murray ?/Feb/13 AltLd O/S
with Tim
tskelhon ?/Feb/13 AltLd O/S
with Matt Marshall
Siobhann 30/Jan/13 2nd O/S

What a fantastic day out... Brilliant climb... Shattered lol

Alastair R 29/Jan/13 AltLd O/S
with Ally Fulton, andyinglis
andyinglis 29/Jan/13 AltLd O/S

Nice route. WI3+

Alasdair Fulton 29/Jan/13 AltLd O/S
with Al Robertson, andyinglis
Tim Bateman 14/Jan/13 Lead
with George Bird
Hidden ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
Hidden 26/Dec/12 AltLd O/S
DigitalSteak 20/Dec/12 2nd O/S

Best winter route I've ever done!! Very Scottish but without the crap weather, an overlooked classic

Hidden 07/Feb/12 2nd
ruaidh 06/Feb/12 Lead O/S

Outstanding Route. Classic Scottish gully, but without the shite weather. Four stars. Best day out in Cogne in five years of hommage to the ice mecca. Steady grade four all the way. door to door in 7.5 hours. Wasted the following day. Merci beaucoup, Serge, votre compagnie et des conseils.

with Paul
John Carney 05/Feb/12 Lead O/S
with David Linton
jepotherepo ?/Feb/12 -
Andre Clarke 31/Jan/12 AltLd O/S

Great day out. Espicially enjoyed the mixed bits. Disappointed by weather as we didn't get to see the amazing views we were promised on account of the weather

with Weagie
Jim Slater 30/Jan/12 AltLd O/S
with Ly-Cilph, Trevor Wilson, Gavlar
Ly-Cilph 30/Jan/12 AltLd O/S

Very Scottish!

with Trevor W (PCC)
astrange 20/Jan/12 AltLd O/S

Nice Gully climb. An Italian 'Point Five' :)

with Anders H. Pedersen
Seymore Butt ?/Jan/12 AltLd
with CD
Hidden 17/Feb/11 AltLd
jarriz 15/Feb/11 AltLd
Hidden 01/Feb/11 Lead
NickJH ?/Feb/11 Lead dnf

Thin, soft snow at chockstone.

with R McGuiness
Hay ?/Feb/11 AltLd
Hidden 29/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
johnmctighe 20/Jan/11 2nd O/S
Tim Bateman 15/Jan/11 Lead

Good ice all the way even in the chimney near the top.

with Nick Horton, Nick Beale, George Bird
Wil Treasure 15/Jan/11 2nd
with Dave H, Simon
LardClimber ?/Jan/11 -
Hidden ?/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
9fingerjon 22/Feb/10 AltLd O/S

Led the mixed pitch at the top. Apparently has more ice in it the most years - climbed thin ice all the way to the 2 fixed pegs. then just a couple of sketchy mixed moves to finish.

with Niall Dickson, James H
Ally Smith 18/Feb/10 AltLd
Hannes 12/Feb/10 AltLd O/S

Great gully climbing, not hugely hard when we did it but it is a bit of a slog up some snow slopes. If you go the normal route there is little need to bother with rock protection as there are bolts and pitons in place by the mixed bits. Sun didn't seem to hit the gully in mid feb at least so it was very cold when waiting around

Hidden ?/Feb/10 Lead O/S
Topper Harley ?/Feb/10 2nd
garethMottram ?/Feb/10 Lead β
with Hannes
Tim Bateman 17/Jan/10 Lead
with George Bird
David Horwood 16/Jan/10 -
Hidden ?/Dec/09 2nd
Hidden 14/Feb/09 AltLd O/S
industrialiceman 01/Feb/09 2nd
chris m fisher 22/Jan/09 AltLd O/S
with Andy + Mike
Hidden 22/Jan/09 2nd O/S
chris.mac ??/2009 -
brockers ?/Feb/08 -
with CarlZ
gingernick 21/Jan/08 AltLd

Awsome first day at Cogne.2nd go at ice climbing,straight into leading even mixed couldn`t have done it without being egged on by Chris. Very long day, never will forget it!!!Bashed the path in all the way, swam off the top in the dark 11hrs, a right beasting!

with Chris Guest
Hidden 20/Feb/06 AltLd O/S
McGus 08/Feb/06 2nd

superb! WI4, TD-, M4+!!

with Nick Brook & Neil Brodie
Yyonnx 13/Jan/06 AltLd

thought we would be first but were second by 15 minutes and thus had to climb the whole gully behind two parties of aspirant guides from torento...horrible experience but we made it thru without a scratch.

with Pepijn, Jeroen
Graeme Barr 27/Jan/05 2nd
with Eric
Daniel Wrightson ?/Mar/04 AltLd O/S
with riccardo corbini
Hidden ?/Jan/04 AltLd O/S
zero six ??/2004 AltLd O/S
Martin Bennett 03/Feb/03 -
with Glenn
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Votes cast 27
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