Rockfax Description
A good direct line right up the middle of the slab. Start 4m right of the arete as for Midnight Cowboy.
1) 5a, 19m. Climb directly up thin cracks to the apex of the first overlap at 8m. Continue up twin thin cracks above before moving up left to the reddy/brown sloping stance of Midnight Cowboy. Belay on good wires.
2) 4c, 35m. Move up rightwards through the overlap as for Midnight Cowboy and up to a small overlap. Take the thin line slightly rightwards until the rock becomes broken and vegetated. Finish slightly leftwards with care. Stake belay. © Rockfax

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.


ClimberDateStyle
Patrick Moore 23/Aug Lead
Ryan59 15/Jun 2nd
Hidden 15/Jun Lead O/S
Christina 10/Jun 2nd

I was supposed to have seconded Arjun on Midnight Cowboy but found myself refusing to climb the sparsely protected crux down-climb/traverse on P2. There followed a rescue by fellow LMC members, allowing me to top-rope out of there (but leaving Arjun hanging at the belay for almost 2 hours). I have never climbed so fast/felt so relieved/felt so ashamed. Subsequent perusal of the guidebook revealed that we in fact did the first pitch of Long Rock Eliminate and my escape route was up P2. So I did a route, at least.

with Arjun
Rob Davies 10/May AltLd

P1 harder, but tricky route-finding on P2 with spaced gear to crumbly finish. I may have climbed too far L?

with Dave Nicol
Hidden 01/Apr Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Apr -
Willo7859 ??/2017 -
Matico 31/Aug/16 TR O/S
Rhys Deane 07/Aug/16 -
with Huw Harvey, Sam Russel
matt.jj 23/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Sue Paddon
George Frisby 18/Jun/16 2nd O/S
steve_gibbs 18/Jun/16 Lead O/S
JackM92 08/Apr/16 Lead O/S

Led both pitches. P1 good, P2 good for the first half then an unpleasent final 15 meters!

Ian JL 20/Mar/16 Solo rpt

Shunt

Mike Roger ??/2016 Lead
Jelly Mould Surfer 01/Nov/15 AltLd

P2- the last third of the pitch is a bit scary going over the grass

with Mike Thorpe
Tom Seccombe 06/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Brother Nick
Lumbering Oaf 20/May/15 AltLd O/S

P1. 2nd. P2. Thought this was a pretty steady climb. Slight awkwardness on passing overlap on P1, but gear is bomber. Also, gear on P2 adequate, but take some small stuff.

with Luca
Samuel Wainwright 04/Oct/14 Lead

Crux pitch only. Finished up Kinky Boots

mike hooper 31/May/14 AltLd

Led first .I think best pitch of the route.

with jobey martin
Joby 31/May/14 AltLd O/S

Mike led first pitch of Midnight Cowboy, I led Second pitch

with Mike Hooper
crater 04/May/14 2nd
with steve
Steve Woollard 04/May/14 Lead
with Donald
Hidden 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
ChristyCole ?/Apr/14 AltLd
with Dan
Hidden ?/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Steve Woollard 28/Aug/13 Lead
crispycodd 20/Aug/13 2nd O/S

P2 only to escape from Midnight Cowboy.

Hidden 28/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
Kate Edhouse 28/Jun/13 AltLd

Great first pitch. I led second pitch although route finding is a little tricky.

with gerwen
Hidden 26/May/13 AltLd rpt
Hidden 26/May/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
J.A.Thomson ?/Apr/13 AltLd
with Dan
Cheese Monkey 09/Mar/13 Lead dnf

P2 only. Vienna struggled with the gear so I abbed for it

with Vienna
haz rudry ??/2013 Lead
jcook1980 01/Sep/12 Lead
with Katy Jeans
Bex_M 12/Aug/12 2nd O/S

2nd pitch

with Duncan Dunbar
stephen ashworth 22/Jul/12 AltLd
with john frost
Frostie 22/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
with Steve Ashworth
martin clarke 22/Jul/12 AltLd
Steve Woollard 26/May/12 AltLd

Probably the easiest of the four HVS's

with Stuart Fox
Joolz 27/Apr/12 AltLd
with Matt Upwood
eroica64 06/Apr/12 Lead
with Audrey Morrison
Hidden 27/Mar/12 Lead O/S
HansUDes 12/Mar/12 TR O/S

self-belay

jcook1980 ??/2012 Lead
with Katy Jeans
PAJames ??/2012 -
Callum Anderson ??/2012 -
alan moore ??/2012 -
alan moore ??/2012 -
evhall 20/Nov/11 AltLd O/S

big runout on 2nd pitch - but easy terrain..

with colin
Kevster 27/Aug/11 Lead rpt
James Oswald 18/Aug/11 Lead O/S

got scared on lead, should have known more precisely where I was going. We backed of last pitch due to loose shit and no gear. Immense faff ensued with rescuing gear.

with Chris White
Ben ?/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with My driving instructor
BenLarby 03/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with Matt Mitchell
Hidden 23/Jun/11 Lead
andy dunn 25/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Started on sexilegs and bumbled off-route up the twin cracks of LRE. Really good climbing up the twin cracks.

with Alan
Hidden 16/Apr/11 AltLd
Kevster 26/Mar/11 Lead O/S

2nd pitch only

DanLear 20/Mar/11 2nd O/S
with Andy Pemberton
Kris suriyo 04/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2011 AltLd
Hidden ??/2011 AltLd
cjohn62 11/Sep/10 2nd

pitch 2

with martin
benkelsey 17/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

good clean slab climbing not as good as midnight cowboy

Hidden 17/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 01/Aug/10 Lead O/S
MGrock ??/2010 -
mattf77 19/Aug/09 2nd
with rich
sgl 13/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Susie
w.pettet-smith 20/Jun/09 Lead

led p1 kinky boots start. route finding the crux.

with neighbour martin
luke13 ?/May/09 AltLd O/S
with Dec
Marti999 28/Jan/09 Lead O/S
briar4012 28/Jan/09 2nd O/S
with Marti
Hidden 15/Nov/08 AltLd O/S
MoWalker3 13/Sep/08 -
with Cormac
haydng 22/Mar/08 Lead O/S
with Rachel
John Lisle ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden 17/Jun/07 AltLd O/S
Ybot Htulk ?/Jun/07 AltLd
with Dave
Matt Shepherd 10/Jan/07 AltLd O/S
John Lisle ??/2007 -
Marq 16/Sep/06 AltLd O/S

D,M

with Daniel Dennehy
John Lisle ??/2006 -
Chad123 ?/Jul/04 Lead O/S
with Various
Hidden 12/Jul/03 Lead O/S
goi.ashmore 28/Jun/03 Lead O/S
with James Tracey
rockjedi12345 ?/Jun/03 Lead O/S
with Pete Sanderson
Steve Webster 25/Aug/02 AltLd
Adrian Daniels 25/Aug/02 AltLd
rockjedi12345 ?/Aug/02 Lead O/S
MGrock ?/Aug/02 2nd
nige pacer 06/Nov/01 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2000 -
andy_pemberton ??/1997 AltLd
leadmat ??/1997 Lead
with Graham Fleury
colin milton 19/Aug/95 AltLd
with eric milton
Hidden 20/Apr/95 Lead
chris wyatt ??/1995 AltLd
with MarkLee
Hidden 05/Aug/94 -
Iain Thow 17/May/92 Lead

Also 2 meandering 5a routes, one starting up Midnight Cowboy & finishing R of LRE (RH Eliminate?), other starting up L edge of main slab, moving R into Midnight Cowboy, up direct to finish up top pitch of Sexilegs.

with Rob Ivens
Cowflinger 23/Nov/91 Lead
with Arnie
auld al ?/Apr/91 AltLd O/S
Andy Chubb 12/Jul/87 Lead
with Geoff Barker
Hidden 21/Aug/83 Lead O/S
The Reaper 19/Mar/83 Lead O/S
Mike C 29/Oct/82 Lead
with David Blight
tapley 06/Oct/82 AltLd
with Chris Seymour
RichardMc 19/Sep/82 AltLd
with John Evans
Simon cook ?/May/82 -
jon 15/Nov/81 Solo
valuks1 18/Jul/81 Lead O/S

My first HVS lead, such great memories, shame that Baggy climbs end on dodgy rock and grass but otherwise are so enjoyable.

with Phil knight
Steve Woollard ??/1981 Lead
Andy Chubb 21/Jun/80 Lead
with Andy Roberts
Ken Taylor 18/Apr/79 AltLd O/S
with Andy Bond
Hidden 10/Aug/77 AltLd
Hidden 10/Aug/77 AltLd O/S
Paul Clarke ??/1976 -
with Mike Lynch, FMC
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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 12
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 11
Votes cast 11
Style of ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Not Set