UKC

Restricted Access

One of the more convenient and quick-drying crags in the area. Good sport climbing as well as a reasonable selection of trad routes. The popular routes tend to be polished, especially the starts of those on the Lower Lift.

Whitebeams (a rare species of tree) grow on the crag and are an important feature of the SSSI. Please do not cut any trees on or around the crag without gaining permision first as this could result in access issues in future. If you want to carry out cleaning which involves trees, please contact the BMC access team first through access@thebmc.co.uk.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 February to 15 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

There is a tawny owl nesting on "It's Over for Jehovah". Avoide all routes between "Head full of hedda" and "What you think"

13m. The obvious open corner immediately right of Sometimes I Think I’ll Kill You. Climb easily up into the scoop to where the rock steepens; then follow the line of the thin crack above to a welcome hand ledge and double ring abseil station. Bridging left allowed at this grade (without bridging is 6c, and has a separate climb entry). Five bolt runners.

Gordon A Jenkin, Ed Wright (both led), Yvonne Jones, James Thomson 27/Feb/2016.

Ticklists

CoT Wye Valley Mileage #C2K

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High 6b+
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Votes cast 22
Votes cast 14
Style of Ascent
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