Restricted Access
One of the more convenient and quick-drying crags in the area. Good sport climbing as well as a reasonable selection of trad routes. The popular routes tend to be polished, especially the starts of those on the Lower Lift.
Whitebeams (a rare species of tree) grow on the crag and are an important feature of the SSSI. Please do not cut any trees on or around the crag without gaining permision first as this could result in access issues in future. If you want to carry out cleaning which involves trees, please contact the BMC access team first through access@thebmc.co.uk.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 February to 15 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
There is a tawny owl nesting on "It's Over for Jehovah". Avoide all routes between "Head full of hedda" and "What you think"
Rockfax Description
Nip up the awkward corner and then head left to the large right-facing corner and a lower-off at its top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
CAUTION: large, loose blocks in the upper part of this route.
Start to the left of Hong Kong Garden (Direct). Note that this route starts to the right of Hong Kong Wedding, and crosses that route leftwards at the ledges. A good old fashioned jamming struggle up the initial narrow corner/groove gains a commodious ledge and a pleasant romp leftwards up an easy juggy ramp to double rings high up in the corner. Be careful what you haul outwards on above the ledge: some blocky flakes are obviously detached, and there have been reports of movement in one of them.
Gordon A Jenkin, Rob Stanfield (both led), Mark S Davies 05/Mar/2016.
Ticklists
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| RichPacker | 23 Sep, 2023 |
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βeta: I found Hong Kong Wedding (6b) easier than this. | βeta? | |
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βeta: I found Hong Kong Wedding (6b) easier than this. |
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| zozo.k | 19 Feb, 2023 |
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βeta: Not enjoyable and hard for it\'s grade | βeta? | |
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βeta: Not enjoyable and hard for it's grade |
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| PaulTclimbing | 16 Sep, 2021 |
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βeta: Blocks above 1/2 height marked with big ( but not bright) white x’s suggesting danger/loose. Aporix position in a photo here or on adjacent routes. Treat with caution and inspect. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Blocks above 1/2 height marked with big ( but not bright) white x’s suggesting danger/loose. Aporix position in a photo here or on adjacent routes. Treat with caution and inspect. |
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| springfall2008 | 22 Jun, 2019 |
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βeta: This must be at least F6a | ||
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βeta: This must be at least F6a |
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