Restricted Access
One of the more convenient and quick-drying crags in the area. Good sport climbing as well as a reasonable selection of trad routes. The popular routes tend to be polished, especially the starts of those on the Lower Lift.
Whitebeams (a rare species of tree) grow on the crag and are an important feature of the SSSI. Please do not cut any trees on or around the crag without gaining permision first as this could result in access issues in future. If you want to carry out cleaning which involves trees, please contact the BMC access team first through access@thebmc.co.uk.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 February to 15 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
There is a tawny owl nesting on "It's Over for Jehovah". Avoide all routes between "Head full of hedda" and "What you think"
Start as for Pedestal Route and abseil diagonally leftwards to an isolated perched ledge and twin bolt belay.
Step up onto a foot-ledge and ascend a small glacis to where the slab steepens. Move up on some fun breccia holds (and using a perfect blob) onto the higher slab and follow this up right to a comfy ledge. Climb the little corner crack above then delicately traverse across right beneath the last bolt to share the finish of Pedestal Route. Double belay rings. Nine bolt runners.
Gordon A Jenkin, Mark S Davies 13/Mar/2016.
Ticklists
CoT Wye Valley Mileage #C2K , Wye Valley Salathe Lite
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