Rockfax Description
A minor moorland-classic that needs dry conditions to be enjoyed to the full. Start at two small holes below the remains of an iron spike at 5m.
1) 5b, 14m. Climb direct up the slab from the two holes, initially with great difficulty, to the summit of the huge flake. Move right to belay below the rounded crack in the upper wall.
2) 5a, 13m. Access the wide, rounded crack in the upper wall via a tricky pull through the bulge. Follow the crack and slabs above to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Hard boulder start (5b), may be worth bringing a mat if you have one handy though the landing is flat. Continuing direct past the iron spikes (runner) leads to easier delicate climbing. There's gear after the spikes in the groove to the right (nut/cam or two) then a bold section until near the top of the pitch. Try not to sneak off left at the top.

Ann is also a worthwhile pitch, with a hard start into the rounded groove (5a) and delicate finish. It is often vegetated but it does not detract too much from the climbing, a bit more mileage would help.

Ticklists

West Country Climbs, 40 For 40, 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes

Feedback

UserDateNotes
ADJ85 17 Jul Show βeta
βeta: Horribly lycheny
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Horribly lycheny
Login as Existing User to add your feedback

Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
ADJ85 17 Jul Lead Horribly lycheny
with Adj
Horribly lycheny
with Adj
Hidden 17 Jul 2nd O/S
petecallaghan 10 Jul Lead rpt Protection seems pretty minimal and the climbing delicate to the top.
with Tilt
Protection seems pretty minimal and the climbing delicate to the top.
with Tilt
Hidden 10 Jul 2nd O/S
Tilt 10 Jul 2nd O/S
Hidden 6 Jul Lead
HenryBooth 6 Jul Lead O/S
jamieevans 27 Jun Lead
Megapode 27 Jun 2nd Fell a bunch of times from the slab at the start of the climb.
Fell a bunch of times from the slab at the start of the climb.
Hidden 17 Jun TR dnf
Hidden 28 May 2nd rpt
Wine and climb 25 May Lead O/S Only climbed the first pitch as this had considerably less moss than the second. Abseiled off the tat and biner left at the top of the pitch. Enjoyable climbing.
with Susie rout
Only climbed the first pitch as this had considerably less moss than the second. Abseiled off the tat and biner left at the top of the pitch. Enjoyable climbing.
with Susie rout
climbdevon 23 May -
pelvoux 22 Apr 2nd O/S Great lead from Christy
Great lead from Christy
Hidden 22 Apr Lead O/S
ChristyCole 22 Apr Lead O/S
PilkingtonD 29 Sep, 2018 TR O/S
Kenhard 25 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S Tough bold Climbing. Felt very committing. Top half was equally hard and bold.
with unslev
Tough bold Climbing. Felt very committing. Top half was equally hard and bold.
with unslev
Claireybloomers 25 Aug, 2018 2nd O/S
andy dunn 25 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
KatieRamsden 2 Aug, 2018 2nd
Flavio 25 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S Bone dry and somehow still not in condition. Needs the carpets peeled back and maybe (..maybe) a decent climb could be found underneath.
Bone dry and somehow still not in condition. Needs the carpets peeled back and maybe (..maybe) a decent climb could be found underneath.
JendeHoxar 25 Jul, 2018 2nd O/S
with Flavio
with Flavio
JoeCoxson 27 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S A lesson in moss avoidance. Probably in condition less than scottish winter. Fun boulder start and continually interesting thereafter.
A lesson in moss avoidance. Probably in condition less than scottish winter. Fun boulder start and continually interesting thereafter.
omaskrey 27 Jun, 2018 2nd O/S
ash656 23 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
with Rose
with Rose
Rocknast 23 Jun, 2018 2nd O/S
FaffmasterG 23 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
jacobjohncharles 22 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden 21 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
tobichallis 17 May, 2018 2nd Moss
Moss
TBromley 17 May, 2018 Lead Led both pitches even though we decided to multipitch it for some bizzare reason. Bottom pitch quite committing and the top pitch was just moss. Enjoyable, if scary.
Led both pitches even though we decided to multipitch it for some bizzare reason. Bottom pitch quite committing and the top pitch was just moss. Enjoyable, if scary.
jrobertshaw 6 May, 2018 Lead O/S Horrendously mossy the whole way. Slab was fun but pretty bare, groove was awkward and all green. Linked the whole thing into one pitch.
Horrendously mossy the whole way. Slab was fun but pretty bare, groove was awkward and all green. Linked the whole thing into one pitch.
Jkellaway 6 May, 2018 2nd
Bhopper ??, 2018 Lead
Bhopper ??, 2018 Lead
Lawcallum 28 Sep, 2017 2nd dnf
Ccmilree 28 Sep, 2017 Lead dnf
Oscar Popels 27 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S Hard Very Mossy. The initial slab felt very delicate and fall off able. The second pitch was more straightforward but a bit sketchy due the the high levels of moss. I'm not sure how well cams work when either side of the crack looks like a football field. I'm glad I didn't have to find out... Nice climbing though
with Lydia, Sam
Hard Very Mossy. The initial slab felt very delicate and fall off able. The second pitch was more straightforward but a bit sketchy due the the high levels of moss. I'm not sure how well cams work when either side of the crack looks like a football field. I'm glad I didn't have to find out... Nice climbing though
with Lydia, Sam
SamStro 27 Aug, 2017 2nd Nice feetsy climbing, too much moss to comprehend on 2nd pitch.
Nice feetsy climbing, too much moss to comprehend on 2nd pitch.
LoneDeranger 21 Aug, 2017 2nd rpt Leader got a bit antsy, especially near the top. Grockles' dog 'Echo' a little antagonistic. Couldn't have been ANTicipated. Gotta love Vandal & Ant: great route. Any other day of the year would have been fine.
with Sam
Leader got a bit antsy, especially near the top. Grockles' dog 'Echo' a little antagonistic. Couldn't have been ANTicipated. Gotta love Vandal & Ant: great route. Any other day of the year would have been fine.
with Sam
royle883 21 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S Ann was damp mossy and covered in millions of flying ants, kept with the weekend's esoteric theme...
Ann was damp mossy and covered in millions of flying ants, kept with the weekend's esoteric theme...
jungle 10 Aug, 2017 Lead RP Slipped off a couple of times at the start. Second pitch is green and horrible
Slipped off a couple of times at the start. Second pitch is green and horrible
StuartBlackler 5 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S thin and mossy, shoes with toes blown didn't help, some good nuts in second pitch, did as one.
thin and mossy, shoes with toes blown didn't help, some good nuts in second pitch, did as one.
timreynolds 17 Jul, 2017 2nd rpt
LoneDeranger 17 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S Climbed as single pitch. Slab section boldness sustained somewhat into following series of breaks. Can be difficult to place bomber gear if lacking in placement skill! Upper section very mossy. Excellent climbing.
with TimR
Climbed as single pitch. Slab section boldness sustained somewhat into following series of breaks. Can be difficult to place bomber gear if lacking in placement skill! Upper section very mossy. Excellent climbing.
with TimR
Tom courtiour 2 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
Hidden 1 Jul, 2017 -
Bettymolly 1 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S Not sure why this is considered a classic...
Not sure why this is considered a classic...
Hidden 26 Jun, 2017 2nd rpt
Lumbering Oaf 26 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S P1 only... P2 seems to be a gutter filled with moss.
with tp45597
P1 only... P2 seems to be a gutter filled with moss.
with tp45597
LDJ 17 Jun, 2017 Lead
with Rob Steer
with Rob Steer
R0BJ0N 14 Jun, 2017 2nd O/S
with Dan Racey
with Dan Racey
Sharp94 13 Jun, 2017 Lead dnf Couldnt get off the ground, probably for the best the top looked like the amazon anyway.
Couldnt get off the ground, probably for the best the top looked like the amazon anyway.
CmSpencer ?Jun, 2017 Lead G/U Came off the slab before had any gear in. Went 2nd go. Top pitch was grim, tiptoeing through moss, topped out and built belay round a bunch of folk who were sat at the top having a beer. Not 3 stars for me, could have done with one of those beers after this one
with Tegan
Came off the slab before had any gear in. Went 2nd go. Top pitch was grim, tiptoeing through moss, topped out and built belay round a bunch of folk who were sat at the top having a beer. Not 3 stars for me, could have done with one of those beers after this one
with Tegan
OllieF 25 May, 2017 Lead rpt
with DOVEY
with DOVEY
Cbulman 2 Apr, 2017 2nd
Kiddo 26 Mar, 2017 Lead
adamkidson 26 Mar, 2017 2nd
with Kiddo
with Kiddo
TommyKips 11 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S
with Beth Hill
with Beth Hill
efrance24234 24 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
with beth-h
with beth-h
Hidden 12 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
kyo 25 Jul, 2016 Lead lead 2nd pitch only after starting climb with bridal piton slab (d)
with andrew loftus
lead 2nd pitch only after starting climb with bridal piton slab (d)
with andrew loftus
Graeme Hammond 19 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S Led both pitches in one. Felt very tough for HVS
with Becky E
Led both pitches in one. Felt very tough for HVS
with Becky E
Sidderspti 5 Jul, 2016 2nd O/S Very Green
Very Green
LanceSolf 5 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden 7 Jun, 2016 Sent dnf
shoulders 5 Jun, 2016 2nd O/S
crag_monster 5 Jun, 2016 Lead
richsmithinbristol 5 Jun, 2016 Lead rpt
Hidden 3 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S
andy_pemberton 25 May, 2016 Lead Disciplined at the top and kept to the main slab - really nice top moves from good gear. P1 only.
with Steve Gibson
Disciplined at the top and kept to the main slab - really nice top moves from good gear. P1 only.
with Steve Gibson
stuartf 25 May, 2016 Lead rpt
Hidden 7 May, 2016 2nd
timreynolds 7 May, 2016 Lead
steve-grigg 5 May, 2016 Lead O/S Led in one pitch, top was mossy, but still good climbing
with Rich Purvis
Led in one pitch, top was mossy, but still good climbing
with Rich Purvis
WillAndrew 30 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S
steve_gibbs 30 Apr, 2016 2nd rpt
Hidden 30 Apr, 2016 2nd
Fatclimber 30 Apr, 2016 Lead dnf Did not start would be more accurate!
with Deako
Did not start would be more accurate!
with Deako
Hidden 30 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S
Bristol_Quornstar 24 Apr, 2016 2nd O/S Surprisingly tough (and bold) even on second. Great lead by Steve
with Dan Akam, steve_gibbs
Surprisingly tough (and bold) even on second. Great lead by Steve
with Dan Akam, steve_gibbs
steve_gibbs 24 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S
with Dan Akam, Bristol_Quornstar
with Dan Akam, Bristol_Quornstar
burto 20 Apr, 2016 Lead
with rozzy
with rozzy
Dave Turnbull, BMC 25 Mar, 2016 Lead P2 too wet, baltic
with Kasia
P2 too wet, baltic
with Kasia
Hidden ??, 2016 Lead O/S
chrisbartlett 20 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 4 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S
Crevisking 18 Aug, 2015 2nd O/S
with Steve Hastings
with Steve Hastings
Phil79 18 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S Tough start to first pitch, good climbing. Top pitch a bit mossy.
Tough start to first pitch, good climbing. Top pitch a bit mossy.
Hidden 9 Aug, 2015 Lead G/U
Samuel Wainwright 9 Aug, 2015 2nd O/S A great lead by Ed!
A great lead by Ed!
Dave Mayes 31 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
timreynolds 31 Jul, 2015 2nd
NickJH 31 Jul, 2015 2nd
with Andy Dunhill
with Andy Dunhill
Bob Peters 19 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S In one. Pretty sure I'd done it before, but possibly only bouldered the start. Took a couple of goes getting off the ground, thinking the LH shot-hole was off route. Used it in the end. Most likely fair at 5b. V nice slab climbing from there if you don't mind the runout. Moss does not detract from top pitch as all vital holds are clear. Flared crack so gear is interesting - eventually fiddle in a large offset nut before the last hard move. Very pleasant & photogenic at the top.
In one. Pretty sure I'd done it before, but possibly only bouldered the start. Took a couple of goes getting off the ground, thinking the LH shot-hole was off route. Used it in the end. Most likely fair at 5b. V nice slab climbing from there if you don't mind the runout. Moss does not detract from top pitch as all vital holds are clear. Flared crack so gear is interesting - eventually fiddle in a large offset nut before the last hard move. Very pleasant & photogenic at the top.
Hidden 10 Jul, 2015 Solo O/S
Kemics 10 Jul, 2015 Lead rpt Had seconded years ago. Felt very hard. Didn't really trust the metal spike and dubious cam. Long run out above on very insecure climbing. Definitely spooky. HVS 5b is a very misleading grade...
with Mel
Had seconded years ago. Felt very hard. Didn't really trust the metal spike and dubious cam. Long run out above on very insecure climbing. Definitely spooky. HVS 5b is a very misleading grade...
with Mel
OllieF 9 Jul, 2015 TR O/S Between group sessions, quite bold on the lead I would have thought! P1 only
Between group sessions, quite bold on the lead I would have thought! P1 only
Hidden 9 Jul, 2015 TR O/S
Hidden 29 Jun, 2015 2nd
Hidden 27 Jun, 2015 2nd
Pete Randall 27 Jun, 2015 Lead
with thesfg
with thesfg
cdpuk 27 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S Done without skipping the first move! Top mossy but bone dry.
Done without skipping the first move! Top mossy but bone dry.
Rob Davies 15 Jun, 2015 2nd rpt Starting move seemed like 5c to me
with Dave Nicol
Starting move seemed like 5c to me
with Dave Nicol
nickb1 8 Jun, 2015 2nd O/S
with annep11
with annep11
annep11 8 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
with nickb1
with nickb1
Hidden 8 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
alex toomey 8 Jun, 2015 2nd O/S
Hidden 7 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
foxjerk 5 Jun, 2015 2nd Wet but not too slimy
with wiwwim
Wet but not too slimy
with wiwwim
suds_01 28 May, 2015 AltLd
with Tom Horton
with Tom Horton
ManxClimber 22 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
Lee_Meaden 9 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
5210Hill 9 Sep, 2014 2nd O/S
Stuckey ?Sep, 2014 2nd
kennythescot ?Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
with Stuckey
with Stuckey
Hidden 24 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
Alkis 24 Aug, 2014 2nd O/S
Paul423 7 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S Seconded pitch 1 and lead pitch 2.
Seconded pitch 1 and lead pitch 2.
clubmanpete 3 Aug, 2014 AltLd Lead second pitch as big holes in my shoes appeared at the wrong time for pitch one... hats of to Allan for leading pitch 1... defo a tough start... tough 5 b I'd say...
Lead second pitch as big holes in my shoes appeared at the wrong time for pitch one... hats of to Allan for leading pitch 1... defo a tough start... tough 5 b I'd say...
surf1nal-kern0w 3 Aug, 2014 AltLd Most technical lead climb to date. I lead 1st pitch. After putting a cows tail sling on spike weighted with hexs and a purple cam with ends only biting in crack. I moved slowly right and put a sling on right hand flake - so there! Then moved boldly up to better holds. Lovely belay camp. Pete made quick second pitch. Though did a lot of gardening and made me a hat out of Moss. With the yellow gorge and purple Heather swaying in the wind and dramatic skies we left contented
Most technical lead climb to date. I lead 1st pitch. After putting a cows tail sling on spike weighted with hexs and a purple cam with ends only biting in crack. I moved slowly right and put a sling on right hand flake - so there! Then moved boldly up to better holds. Lovely belay camp. Pete made quick second pitch. Though did a lot of gardening and made me a hat out of Moss. With the yellow gorge and purple Heather swaying in the wind and dramatic skies we left contented
dbrooks 19 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S led in 1 pitch, cool route, 1st pitch quite run out
with Gareth
led in 1 pitch, cool route, 1st pitch quite run out
with Gareth
Hidden 17 Jul, 2014 Lead dog
nikki_a_swan 17 Jul, 2014 2nd
with NaCl
with NaCl
nikki_a_swan 17 Jul, 2014 2nd
with NaCl
with NaCl
KDSclimber 13 Jul, 2014 AltLd
EcoClimber 13 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S Bottom moves off the ground V hard. Stunning route. Second pitch would benefit from more assents and a stiff brush. Lovely !
Bottom moves off the ground V hard. Stunning route. Second pitch would benefit from more assents and a stiff brush. Lovely !
RKirke 3 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
with Jack W
with Jack W
Hidden 30 Jun, 2014 AltLd rpt
Steveb27 29 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S P1 only. P2 very mossy - anyone got a brush and a few spare mins on an ab rope...
P1 only. P2 very mossy - anyone got a brush and a few spare mins on an ab rope...
Hidden 22 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S
Sdentzel 22 Jun, 2014 Lead β Fun Fun Fun, did it without the holes :)
with Beau
Fun Fun Fun, did it without the holes :)
with Beau
Hidden 22 Jun, 2014 Solo O/S
Coops_13 19 Jun, 2014 Solo O/S Mistook this for a VDiff
with Tom Sturgeon
Mistook this for a VDiff
with Tom Sturgeon
Angus Taylor 15 Jun, 2014 2nd β absolutely lovely climbing, well worth it's stars.
absolutely lovely climbing, well worth it's stars.
OliverRoss 15 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S 1st 5b!! Lead through as one pitch. Nice and sustained, although the top may have been easier had I done some gardening.
with Tom Wilding-Steele
1st 5b!! Lead through as one pitch. Nice and sustained, although the top may have been easier had I done some gardening.
with Tom Wilding-Steele
Hidden 15 Jun, 2014 Solo O/S
twildingsteele 15 Jun, 2014 2nd dog
onlyfoddington 14 Jun, 2014 2nd O/S The slab is tricky, the top bit is not as green as it looks.
The slab is tricky, the top bit is not as green as it looks.
Hidden 14 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
darcan 8 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
with ciara lane
with ciara lane
Hidden 17 May, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 5 May, 2014 TR
K_Maywood 5 May, 2014 TR
ChrisGard 5 May, 2014 TR
rd20 4 May, 2014 2nd O/S
Hidden 4 May, 2014 AltLd rpt
Hidden 4 May, 2014 AltLd rpt
BarnDawg 4 May, 2014 Lead O/S First HVS lead - used a short sling on the rusty spike as pro while a found a cam for crack just below. One other piece of pro but felt fine as angle eased higher up. First pitch only. Really fun slab climbing.
with rd20
First HVS lead - used a short sling on the rusty spike as pro while a found a cam for crack just below. One other piece of pro but felt fine as angle eased higher up. First pitch only. Really fun slab climbing.
with rd20
Hidden 4 May, 2014 2nd β
Hidden 18 Apr, 2014 2nd
dobby 200 18 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S Lead as one pitch. The first pitch requires fun technical slab climbing, the second one was an awkward chimney leading into lots of moss pulling! worth it for the first pitch
with Ros
Lead as one pitch. The first pitch requires fun technical slab climbing, the second one was an awkward chimney leading into lots of moss pulling! worth it for the first pitch
with Ros
roryferris 10 Apr, 2014 Lead β
with sam harris
with sam harris
Thumbspragger 10 Apr, 2014 Lead β
Tom D ??, 2014 AltLd
keepguessing ??, 2014 Lead O/S
with sam
with sam
execlimber 1 Sep, 2013 Solo O/S 1st pitch only, great start to the pitch, descended via chimney to the left
1st pitch only, great start to the pitch, descended via chimney to the left
henrybedford 25 Aug, 2013 2nd O/S
petegruf 11 Aug, 2013 Lead bottled first pitch. combined 2nd pitch with central groove
bottled first pitch. combined 2nd pitch with central groove
Hidden 11 Aug, 2013 2nd O/S
Ant Mace 7 Aug, 2013 TR RP started to lead and wimped out the final third. Went back for the top rope. The second pitch is scary as very mossy!
started to lead and wimped out the final third. Went back for the top rope. The second pitch is scary as very mossy!
zcsharp 3 Aug, 2013 Lead rpt
with Ollie Stevens
with Ollie Stevens
Hidden 3 Aug, 2013 2nd β
Hidden 1 Aug, 2013 Lead
Hidden 23 Jul, 2013 Lead
Hidden 17 Jul, 2013 2nd rpt
BelayBunney 17 Jul, 2013 Lead rpt a bit greasy on the first pitch...
with KittyG
a bit greasy on the first pitch...
with KittyG
Stew nutter 9 Jul, 2013 2nd Nice technical climbing.
with Alan reason
Nice technical climbing.
with Alan reason
richsmithinbristol 5 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S Led both pitches with Clare for her first trad multi pitch!
Led both pitches with Clare for her first trad multi pitch!
jonlord ?Jul, 2013 2nd O/S
Matt Amos 22 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S Finished off the top of the diff, first ever lead! Lead the diff chimney, didn't realise that the route stopped halfway up and finished on the top pitch ann. Quite scary, but rewarding, learnt my lesson!
with Robin Harris
Finished off the top of the diff, first ever lead! Lead the diff chimney, didn't realise that the route stopped halfway up and finished on the top pitch ann. Quite scary, but rewarding, learnt my lesson!
with Robin Harris
Mr Tickle 8 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S Nice balancy start. Good climb, thought the top was good as well.
with Motown
Nice balancy start. Good climb, thought the top was good as well.
with Motown
Motown 8 Jun, 2013 2nd
alastairbegley 18 May, 2013 Lead O/S
with Simon Berry
with Simon Berry
Luxulyan 18 May, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Dan S
with Dan S
thomaspomfrett 11 May, 2013 AltLd O/S Top roped first pitch as Joe was already @ the belay. Lead P2. Hard work in light rain and brisk winds!
with Joe Callaghan
Top roped first pitch as Joe was already @ the belay. Lead P2. Hard work in light rain and brisk winds!
with Joe Callaghan
stephen ashworth 6 May, 2013 Lead
with john frost, martin clarke
with john frost, martin clarke
martin clarke 6 May, 2013 2nd
with Frostie, steve ashworth
with Frostie, steve ashworth
TimKnight 5 May, 2013 Lead O/S Led and enjoyed both pitches
with Dave Marshall
Led and enjoyed both pitches
with Dave Marshall
Hidden 21 Apr, 2013 2nd
homing-penguin 20 Apr, 2013 2nd O/S First pitch needs small cams, second is offwidth covered in moss... Scary biscuits, my leader said, nails biscuits, i said seconding.
First pitch needs small cams, second is offwidth covered in moss... Scary biscuits, my leader said, nails biscuits, i said seconding.
Hidden 20 Apr, 2013 Lead β
Hidden 20 Apr, 2013 Lead O/S
homing-penguin 20 Apr, 2013 2nd O/S First pitch needs small cams, second is offwidth covered in moss... Scary biscuits, my leader said, nails biscuits, i said seconding.
First pitch needs small cams, second is offwidth covered in moss... Scary biscuits, my leader said, nails biscuits, i said seconding.
Nick Biven ??, 2013 -
Jack jk 11 Nov, 2012 Lead dnf Had a crack at this late in the day, stringing both pitches together. Loved the first slab - forces good footwork. The second pitch not so much; in the second half, every move in the groove was a fight, and I found it far harder than the first section. Slipped off inches short of the final holds and hurried down the hill before dark. One to come back for.
Had a crack at this late in the day, stringing both pitches together. Loved the first slab - forces good footwork. The second pitch not so much; in the second half, every move in the groove was a fight, and I found it far harder than the first section. Slipped off inches short of the final holds and hurried down the hill before dark. One to come back for.
zcsharp 3 Nov, 2012 Lead It was extremely windy, cold and my shoes started off wet which wasn't great on the unprotected, hard, pretty much all feet, balancy start, so i cheated. Its not worth 3 stars because of all the moss everywhere.
It was extremely windy, cold and my shoes started off wet which wasn't great on the unprotected, hard, pretty much all feet, balancy start, so i cheated. Its not worth 3 stars because of all the moss everywhere.
Hidden 6 Oct, 2012 2nd O/S
Mr-Cowdrey 6 Oct, 2012 AltLd O/S
with chris ridgers
with chris ridgers
Popkids 28 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S I led the 2nd pitch.Nice route,both pitches complement each other nicely.
with Baz
I led the 2nd pitch.Nice route,both pitches complement each other nicely.
with Baz
Joe Khreisheh 25 Jul, 2012 TR β
RossT 3 Jul, 2012 Lead only first pitch because second was easier but looked dirty green and horrible
with Tim Howell
only first pitch because second was easier but looked dirty green and horrible
with Tim Howell
andy_pemberton 27 Jun, 2012 2nd 1st pitch only.
with Steve Gibson
1st pitch only.
with Steve Gibson
Katherine Ross 19 Jun, 2012 2nd dog Rockfax gives this 3 stars but I thought it was horrible! All the holds were covered in lichen and moss, which combined with my distrust of slopers led to aiding on the rope.
with cbeard
Rockfax gives this 3 stars but I thought it was horrible! All the holds were covered in lichen and moss, which combined with my distrust of slopers led to aiding on the rope.
with cbeard
cbeard 19 Jun, 2012 Lead O/S Really naff! Covered in crud. I don't know how a route gets 3 stars if you have to pull moss off the rock to stand on it! Second pitch had a fun crossed hands start
Really naff! Covered in crud. I don't know how a route gets 3 stars if you have to pull moss off the rock to stand on it! Second pitch had a fun crossed hands start
mbradberry2008 20 May, 2012 AltLd O/S both pitches, led the second
with James Mccann, flyinfrenchy
both pitches, led the second
with James Mccann, flyinfrenchy
flyinfrenchy 19 May, 2012 AltLd O/S
with James McCann, mbradberry2008
with James McCann, mbradberry2008
Hidden 12 May, 2012 2nd O/S
Hidden 1 May, 2012 2nd dog
Hidden 1 May, 2012 Lead rpt
Hidden 16 Apr, 2012 -
rustaldo 18 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S covered in moss at the top, very green
covered in moss at the top, very green
Alex Hallam 18 Mar, 2012 2nd β
Mr Powly 3 Mar, 2012 Solo O/S First pitch only, scarier than I expected but I was committed by then.
First pitch only, scarier than I expected but I was committed by then.
Davebryant 20 Feb, 2012 Lead
Hidden ??, 2012 -
Hidden ??, 2012 2nd β
jcook1980 10 Dec, 2011 2nd
with Dan Walker
with Dan Walker
Hidden 16 Oct, 2011 Lead rpt
Hidden 16 Oct, 2011 2nd O/S
Sean Kelly 3 Oct, 2011 Lead Runner in crack to right. Found a sling & krab on top!
with Harry Pearce
Runner in crack to right. Found a sling & krab on top!
with Harry Pearce
Bobby Gilbert 2 Oct, 2011 Lead O/S Great adventure route. Top pitch very mossy and exciting. Fun.
Great adventure route. Top pitch very mossy and exciting. Fun.
katherinesydney 2 Oct, 2011 2nd O/S Thin, balancy, mossy delights
Thin, balancy, mossy delights
Hidden 1 Oct, 2011 Lead
Hidden 24 Sep, 2011 2nd O/S
Kevster 24 Sep, 2011 Lead O/S
mreynolds 14 Sep, 2011 2nd dog
timreynolds 14 Sep, 2011 Lead
Felix Ottey 11 Sep, 2011 Lead
Frostie 9 Aug, 2011 Solo Solo climbed first pitch only which is 5b pitch.
Solo climbed first pitch only which is 5b pitch.
stephen ashworth 9 Aug, 2011 Solo
Didymus 2 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S p1 only
p1 only
stvredmond 10 Jul, 2011 Lead only did the first pitch. good first 7 metres but not sure about the rest of the pitch, hardly worth the three stars
only did the first pitch. good first 7 metres but not sure about the rest of the pitch, hardly worth the three stars
Helnorris 10 Jul, 2011 2nd
Will_Maxwell 10 Jul, 2011 Solo O/S
chrisbrown_023 2 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
Lloyders ?Jul, 2011 2nd O/S
Cheese Monkey 29 Jun, 2011 2nd RP P1 only. Tricky start, but eases out after the jug
P1 only. Tricky start, but eases out after the jug
Dave Ing 29 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S P1 only. Skipped the hard start by stepping on the block on the left, making it HVS 5a or so.
P1 only. Skipped the hard start by stepping on the block on the left, making it HVS 5a or so.
pete3685 26 Jun, 2011 Solo O/S
Owen Jefferies 24 Jun, 2011 AltLd O/S
Chris Ellyatt 24 Jun, 2011 2nd O/S Did the 2nd pitch of this, after finishing Bridle Piton Slab to the right. 2nd pitch VERY mossy, which makes it feel quite insecure!
Did the 2nd pitch of this, after finishing Bridle Piton Slab to the right. 2nd pitch VERY mossy, which makes it feel quite insecure!
dale1968 4 Jun, 2011 Lead dnf
Chaman 25 May, 2011 2nd O/S Mark S led
Mark S led
Hidden 25 May, 2011 Lead rpt
Tom Last 25 May, 2011 Lead O/S First pitch only as second look hideous. Pretty run-out on slopers. Bold but good, although only really worth one star. No way is the start "hard 5b". HVS 5a is a fairly accurate grade fr this route.
First pitch only as second look hideous. Pretty run-out on slopers. Bold but good, although only really worth one star. No way is the start "hard 5b". HVS 5a is a fairly accurate grade fr this route.
DCIGadget 25 May, 2011 2nd rpt Mark led Chaman + I second great climb
Mark led Chaman + I second great climb
Hidden 25 May, 2011 AltLd O/S
jonnie3430 25 May, 2011 Lead O/S
with Carol
with Carol
Homes 19 May, 2011 AltLd
with Leo
with Leo
leohl 19 May, 2011 AltLd
msoldn 16 May, 2011 2nd O/S
with Sam
with Sam
Hidden 29 Apr, 2011 2nd O/S
Hidden 29 Apr, 2011 Lead
bigrob 28 Apr, 2011 Lead
with caz neely
with caz neely
Hidden 28 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 27 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 27 Apr, 2011 2nd
DCIGadget 25 Apr, 2011 2nd O/S Rupert led great first pitch
with Rupert SDMC
Rupert led great first pitch
with Rupert SDMC
Rupey 16 Apr, 2011 2nd O/S
with Wayne
with Wayne
Hidden 13 Apr, 2011 Lead dog
Hidden 10 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
jmjw 9 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S All in one pitch, pretty fun, Ann would be full on in the wet
with Rob H
All in one pitch, pretty fun, Ann would be full on in the wet
with Rob H
timreynolds 6 Apr, 2011 Lead
Sean Kelly 6 Apr, 2011 - Both pitches.
with Tim
Both pitches.
with Tim
thomb 6 Apr, 2011 2nd
with tim
with tim
abicampbell ?Apr, 2011 TR O/S
Hidden ?Apr, 2011 Lead
Hidden 27 Mar, 2011 Lead O/S
Chris Ebbutt 27 Mar, 2011 2nd
with Jason, mark schramm
with Jason, mark schramm
Hidden 27 Mar, 2011 2nd
Hidden 24 Mar, 2011 2nd
BelayBunney 24 Mar, 2011 Lead rpt Fun climb with a burly start! Second pitch is harder than it looks and was very green!
with KittyG
Fun climb with a burly start! Second pitch is harder than it looks and was very green!
with KittyG
Hidden 20 Mar, 2011 TR dog
Luke90 20 Mar, 2011 2nd
with M Bryan
with M Bryan
Hidden 20 Mar, 2011 Lead rpt
M Bryan ?Mar, 2011 Lead O/S But Luke failed. Haha, I win!
with Luke90
But Luke failed. Haha, I win!
with Luke90
CptRicActiv ??, 2011 Lead
CptRicActiv ??, 2011 Lead
cripper ??, 2011 -
with Benw320
with Benw320
waydan ??, 2011 AltLd O/S
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??, 2011 -
ilch 18 Oct, 2010 2nd dog
with benwhit
with benwhit
Bristoldave 26 Sep, 2010 Lead O/S
with nick
with nick
Hidden 3 Sep, 2010 Lead rpt
Tristan Sherlock 30 Aug, 2010 TR
RagingPuffin 30 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
with Paula
with Paula
bunn.aroundthebloc 29 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Tom Thorpe
with Tom Thorpe
Kemics 8 Aug, 2010 2nd O/S Nathan led/soloed, very thin on the gear but a nice set of interesting technical slab moves. Earns stars for sure.
Nathan led/soloed, very thin on the gear but a nice set of interesting technical slab moves. Earns stars for sure.
Hidden 4 Aug, 2010 2nd O/S
Hidden 31 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S
Tom Seccombe 24 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S me: pitch 2
me: pitch 2
richgac 24 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S
with Charlie
with Charlie
tim exley 24 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S lead 1st pitch
lead 1st pitch
_m.cox_ ?Jul, 2010 2nd β
with Jason Williams, tom harrison
with Jason Williams, tom harrison
Hidden 20 Jun, 2010 2nd rpt
Hidden 20 Jun, 2010 2nd O/S
CharlotteJelleyman 20 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
with Matt Eaves
with Matt Eaves
petecallaghan 9 Jun, 2010 2nd O/S
Chris Ebbutt 9 Jun, 2010 Lead
gailc 16 Apr, 2010 2nd dog
Tom Last 4 Apr, 2010 Lead dnf Had to leave - very quickly, so didn't finish and down-climbed.
with Caroline
Had to leave - very quickly, so didn't finish and down-climbed.
with Caroline
scott titt ??, 2010 -
Hidden ??, 2010 Lead
Hidden 10 Oct, 2009 Lead O/S
w.pettet-smith 30 Sep, 2009 Solo O/S vandal only, then fun caving style descent. thought it was soft for 5b. didn't fancy the top pitch solo though.
vandal only, then fun caving style descent. thought it was soft for 5b. didn't fancy the top pitch solo though.
Hidden ?Sep, 2009 2nd O/S
Hidden 29 Aug, 2009 2nd O/S
hrgcb 29 Aug, 2009 AltLd O/S John lead the first pitch, I lead the second
with John Chattaway
John lead the first pitch, I lead the second
with John Chattaway
francois 20 Aug, 2009 AltLd P1 me P2 Chris
P1 me P2 Chris
BelayBunney 20 Aug, 2009 2nd O/S Tricky first boulder move - quite polished low down. Rest of route is fine though.
Tricky first boulder move - quite polished low down. Rest of route is fine though.
rfdl100 9 Aug, 2009 Lead O/S Lead second pitch after leading Central Chimney
with Robin Van de Helde
Lead second pitch after leading Central Chimney
with Robin Van de Helde
MarkRyder 3 Jul, 2009 Lead O/S
with lee91
with lee91
tcfield 26 Jun, 2009 AltLd RP I lead 1st pitch
I lead 1st pitch
francois 16 Jun, 2009 2nd Pretty bold stuff for HVS5b as the gear is not that great.
with Ben
Pretty bold stuff for HVS5b as the gear is not that great.
with Ben
JimR 14 Jun, 2009 -
Chubbard 14 Jun, 2009 2nd O/S
with JimR
with JimR
Hidden 7 Jun, 2009 Solo
JonHarvey 2 Jun, 2009 Lead dog Vandal clean, awesome :) Fell on top move of Ann, foot slipped on moss! needs a good scrub! Ah well, 1st 5b clean onsight ... Get on!
Vandal clean, awesome :) Fell on top move of Ann, foot slipped on moss! needs a good scrub! Ah well, 1st 5b clean onsight ... Get on!
langar27 2 Jun, 2009 2nd O/S epic climb...surprised that people avoid the great second pitch.
epic climb...surprised that people avoid the great second pitch.
Hidden 2 Jun, 2009 Solo O/S
tonanf ?Jun, 2009 Lead
with burt
with burt
TO6715 7 May, 2009 Lead β
John Southworth 5 Apr, 2009 Lead O/S
with Tom Galvin
with Tom Galvin
Hidden 21 Mar, 2009 Lead dog
jon thompson27 ?Mar, 2009 -
with Alex Thompson
with Alex Thompson
RM199 ??, 2009 -
manwithacam 26 Sep, 2008 AltLd
with Martin
with Martin
sharmawho? 22 Aug, 2008 Lead O/S
with oli
with oli
RobSteere 27 Jul, 2008 2nd O/S
with John Axeworthy
with John Axeworthy
Jon_Warner 24 Jun, 2008 Lead rpt Slipped off start once
with Edan
Slipped off start once
with Edan
Hidden 14 May, 2008 Lead O/S
Hidden 13 May, 2008 Lead RP
Reeges 3 Mar, 2008 Lead O/S 1st Pitch only. Started to rain half way up!
1st Pitch only. Started to rain half way up!
dewrats ??, 2008 -
with Oli Boyes , Dave Searle, Chris Barr
with Oli Boyes , Dave Searle, Chris Barr
Chris_barr ??, 2008 Solo O/S First pitch only
with Oli, Harry
First pitch only
with Oli, Harry
Hidden 17 Nov, 2007 2nd
Darrell Read 17 Nov, 2007 Lead O/S Led by accident! Thought the Diff felt a bit hard.
Led by accident! Thought the Diff felt a bit hard.
Hidden 25 Oct, 2007 2nd O/S
Hidden 14 Sep, 2007 Lead β
dmoir 5 Sep, 2007 Solo O/S First pitch only, top pitch covered in moss
First pitch only, top pitch covered in moss
David Sherratt ?Jun, 2007 -
angleseykayaker 12 May, 2007 Lead
with Paul Griffiths
with Paul Griffiths
Jonny_86 15 Apr, 2007 2nd O/S v v scairy if i were to lead. Pin things in bottom that you put nuts over. Second pitch starts with rock over.
v v scairy if i were to lead. Pin things in bottom that you put nuts over. Second pitch starts with rock over.
Jon_Warner 15 Apr, 2007 Lead O/S Hard start brilliant sustained climbing, first pitch worthy of 3 stars, 2nd Pitch mossy at this time of year
Hard start brilliant sustained climbing, first pitch worthy of 3 stars, 2nd Pitch mossy at this time of year
eddy-on-the-rocks ??, 2007 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2007 Lead O/S
Rob Kennard ??, 2007 -
climber sim ??, 2007 -
maybe_si 27 Oct, 2006 Lead O/S
with charlie
with charlie
Hidden 22 Aug, 2006 Solo rpt
Hidden 23 Jul, 2006 AltLd
MontyH 8 Jul, 2006 Lead O/S 1st pitch only
with Paul Milton
1st pitch only
with Paul Milton
Hidden 20 Jun, 2006 Lead O/S
chris j 11 Jun, 2006 AltLd O/S
with Richard
with Richard
cmsg 3 Jun, 2006 2nd O/S The start confused everybody.
with Alastair McKelvie
The start confused everybody.
with Alastair McKelvie
richardr ?Jun, 2006 -
Hidden ??, 2006 -
gaz.marshall ?Aug, 2005 Lead O/S Only Vandal. Ann looks dirty and grim!
with Johnsey
Only Vandal. Ann looks dirty and grim!
with Johnsey
Bruce Kerr 10 Jul, 2005 AltLd
with Claire Stein, Graham Stein
with Claire Stein, Graham Stein
Hidden 29 Jun, 2005 AltLd
Hidden ?Feb, 2005 TR
Gareth ??, 2005 AltLd O/S me first pitch
me first pitch
Steve Bell ??, 2005 -
Gibson27 ??, 2005 Lead O/S
Hidden 5 Aug, 2004 Lead O/S
charlesmfrench 19 May, 2004 2nd O/S
with Simon Howe
with Simon Howe
Hidden 22 Aug, 2003 Lead O/S
Hidden 26 May, 2003 Lead O/S
Becca_itd 22 Mar, 2003 2nd
Hidden 22 Mar, 2003 Lead
Rob Pitt ??, 2003 -
cem 5 Oct, 2002 Lead O/S Led in one
with James Gregory
Led in one
with James Gregory
Hidden 25 May, 2002 TR
Hidden ?Aug, 2001 Solo O/S
Hidden 8 Jul, 2001 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2001 AltLd O/S
Hidden 4 Sep, 2000 AltLd O/S
Kerm 1 Aug, 2000 Lead
Kerm ?Aug, 2000 -
NickP ??, 2000 -
Marti999 ??, 2000 -
andy_pemberton ??, 2000 Lead
Hidden ??, 2000 -
Steveb27 ??, 2000 AltLd
CraigMac1 ??, 2000 -
Frostie ??, 1999 Lead
with Frank Horby
with Frank Horby
AJH ??, 1999 2nd
with Henk
with Henk
sixties 8 Aug, 1998 Lead
with hrd
with hrd
stuart100 9 May, 1998 Lead O/S
with Claire Graham
with Claire Graham
Hidden 26 Apr, 1998 Lead O/S
AndySL 12 Oct, 1996 AltLd O/S
with Jerry
with Jerry
Andy Say 21 Aug, 1996 Solo O/S
timreynolds 5 Jun, 1996 Lead
with Andy Leivers
with Andy Leivers
Hidden ??, 1996 Solo
EddieA ?Oct, 1995 Solo Done by mistake (Ann) - I thought it was a continuation to some Diff that got me to the top of Vandal. I was doing Ok until I got to the mossy, sloping top of Ann where, as I was gathering the courage to make the green finishing moves (about 80 ft up...) a boy watching below turned to his mum and said: "Will that man die if he falls off?". I decided the answer was "yes" and completely lost all confidence - a bad thing to happen when soloing. Meanwhile, a party of abseilers on top of the Tor were about to throw ropes down the face I was climbing up so I called for a toprope and completed the last moves easily with that reassurance. A bad experience - I seldom solo if there are other people around and I'm usually good at route-finding and reading guidebooks. Not sure what went wrong - perhaps being unfamiliar with the rock type I couldn't judge the difficulty before setting off and hopped onto something beyond my normal soloing range. Slunk off embarrassed but alive.
Done by mistake (Ann) - I thought it was a continuation to some Diff that got me to the top of Vandal. I was doing Ok until I got to the mossy, sloping top of Ann where, as I was gathering the courage to make the green finishing moves (about 80 ft up...) a boy watching below turned to his mum and said: "Will that man die if he falls off?". I decided the answer was "yes" and completely lost all confidence - a bad thing to happen when soloing. Meanwhile, a party of abseilers on top of the Tor were about to throw ropes down the face I was climbing up so I called for a toprope and completed the last moves easily with that reassurance. A bad experience - I seldom solo if there are other people around and I'm usually good at route-finding and reading guidebooks. Not sure what went wrong - perhaps being unfamiliar with the rock type I couldn't judge the difficulty before setting off and hopped onto something beyond my normal soloing range. Slunk off embarrassed but alive.
colin milton 31 Jul, 1995 Lead O/S
with eric milton
with eric milton
Nettle 11 Jun, 1994 Solo rpt Bold solo!
Bold solo!
sdht ??, 1994 -
Rob Davies 30 Aug, 1993 Lead
with Roy Lindsay
with Roy Lindsay
Nettle 8 Jun, 1993 AltLd Screwy - "Any old route to get you back onto the rock. I won't listen to Larry the Lamb again!! Smart Bloke! Very delicate first pitch finished by me floundering over the top!!!"
with Screwy Driver
Screwy - "Any old route to get you back onto the rock. I won't listen to Larry the Lamb again!! Smart Bloke! Very delicate first pitch finished by me floundering over the top!!!"
with Screwy Driver
leadmat ?Jun, 1993 Lead
pmot ??, 1993 Lead O/S
Hidden 5 Sep, 1992 Lead O/S
jim_randell 16 Aug, 1992 Lead O/S Lead in mistake for Superdirect.
with MS
Lead in mistake for Superdirect.
with MS
Frontiers Edge 1 Jun, 1992 TR
eroica64 ?Aug, 1991 Lead
with Denis Crampton
with Denis Crampton
Roget 23 Jun, 1990 Lead O/S
with jim
with jim
Iain Thow 31 May, 1990 TR
with Rob Ivens
with Rob Ivens
Hidden 27 May, 1990 Lead O/S
Derek Ryden 15 Oct, 1989 Solo O/S
Hidden ?May, 1989 Solo
davidalcock ??, 1988 -
with Philip Scorer
with Philip Scorer
Hidden 19 Aug, 1987 Lead
Pete Nugent 26 Jul, 1987 Lead O/S
with John Derbyshire
with John Derbyshire
Simon cook ??, 1987 Solo
Raggar 21 Sep, 1986 2nd
with Jon B
with Jon B
bleddynmawr ?Jun, 1986 Lead No moss.Very delicate second pitch.
with Pete Cox
No moss.Very delicate second pitch.
with Pete Cox
Hidden ?Aug, 1985 Lead O/S
frank ramsay ??, 1985 Lead
Hidden 5 Jul, 1984 2nd O/S
PaulTanton ?Jul, 1983 Lead O/S God only knows how I got up this in 1983. I was so inexperienced then. I've looked at it recently but never done it again. It's a great granite route lots of rounded holds and smears for your feet. Just what I'm not good at. Would love to meet Greg again. He moved from Sheffield to Devon and then I moved from Devon to Leeds..... Devon is best
with Greg Smith
God only knows how I got up this in 1983. I was so inexperienced then. I've looked at it recently but never done it again. It's a great granite route lots of rounded holds and smears for your feet. Just what I'm not good at. Would love to meet Greg again. He moved from Sheffield to Devon and then I moved from Devon to Leeds..... Devon is best
with Greg Smith
Mark Kemball ?Jun, 1983 Solo
Ena ??, 1983 AltLd
Gordon Stainforth 21 Aug, 1982 AltLd O/S
with John Edwards
with John Edwards
Mike C 3 Jun, 1982 AltLd
with John Walker
with John Walker
Brian Wilderspin 27 Apr, 1980 Lead O/S
with RP
with RP
D Tempest 1 Jul, 1978 Lead O/S Before this date
Before this date
44 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 79
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 79
Votes cast 77
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Toproped
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set