UKC

Restricted Access

Access to Cademan Rocks for climbing has not been formalised at the current time and could be withdrawn in future if issues continue. At all times practice a minimal impact approach and leave the area in a better condition than you found it. It is important that visiting climbers respect the area, keep a low profile, behave well and cultivate a positive image to other users, local residents and landowners alike. 

  • Parking is very limited and poor parking damages verges and obstructs traffic – both of which give climbers a bad name with locals. Follow the detailed parking guidance in the ‘Parking and Approach’ section below and don’t be part of the problem.
  • If there is nowhere to park without contributing to these issues, please don’t squeeze in regardless – help to preserve long term access and go elsewhere or come back another day.  
  • Litter has noticeably increased in the woods in recent times which is a very obvious negative impact of increased visitor numbers. Do your bit to look after the woods and as well as taking your own litter home with you, pick up other litter you see. The BMC Hills 2 Oceans campaign is providing free litter pickers and bags to help climbers clear up their local crags – click here to get yours.
  • Do not climb over dry stone walls to access any boulders – it will damage the wall and annoy landowners. Take a longer approach if necessary to avoid this.
  • Overnight camping at the rocks or nearby in vehicles is very noticeable and likely to cause friction with local residents and landowners so please don’t do it.
Right hand exit on the Roof Boulder from sitting.

Ticklists

Leicestershire Bouldering (6A-6C+) , 2021 Goals

Feedback

User Date Notes
Michael Iliffe 22 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: A better problem if you use the left block for feet to start (probably 6a). Shit, derived and pointless (painful pulling off a toe hook) if you don't, which I assume is the 6b. An even better problem bumps left hand to a jug to finish left of the nose (but I don't see it in the guide - maybe adds a +).
Show beta
βeta: A better problem if you use the left block for feet to start (probably 6a). Shit, derived and pointless (painful pulling off a toe hook) if you don't, which I assume is the 6b. An even better problem bumps left hand to a jug to finish left of the nose (but I don't see it in the guide - maybe adds a +).

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High f6C
Mid f6C
Low f6C
High f6B+
Mid f6B+
Low f6B+
High f6B
Mid f6B
Low f6B
High f6A+
Mid f6A+
Low f6A+
High f6A
Mid f6A
Low f6A
Votes cast 10
Votes cast 10
Style of Ascent
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Repeated
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Chockstone Roof

Grade: f6B+ ***
(Cademan Wood and Broad Hill)

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