Rockfax Description
A sport route with a traditional feel about it. Start just below a thin crack that becomes a groove higher up.
Move up and devise a method of attaining the ledge up on the left. Mantle onto the ledge and take the wall and steepening grooves above past a wobbly hold to a lower-off. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A very worthwhile climb following the line of bolts in the steep groove line on the far left of the lower fortress wall. Start below an obvious borehole scar leading to a ledge. A balancey start and stiff pull lead to the ledge and the steep groove which is followed tothe chain. Excellent climbing in great positions!

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.


ClimberDateStyle
nickstephens 02/Apr Lead rpt

Fine after I removed some sopping moss from some critical holds... I had to giggle as the water surged out from beneath the loose block half way up as I pulled downwards :-)

with Leela O'Dea
clams ?/Apr Lead RP

Put draws up. Got 2nd go

with PR, K
Tristan Sherlock 24/Sep/16 Lead RP
with Haigh
crag_whitelamb 11/Sep/16 TR dog

Managed the moves with a rest at most of the upper bolts then ate a lot of cheese

with R2B
tim.fairhall 20/Aug/16 Lead rpt
with Richard
Hidden 05/Aug/16 Lead
Lee_Meaden 31/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Luke Robinson
Hidden 18/Jul/16 Lead rpt
Hidden 10/Jul/16 Lead dog
Hidden 10/Jul/16 Lead RP
dbrooks 05/Jun/16 Lead rpt

great end to the day

with Will
Justin T 04/Oct/15 Lead O/S

Perhaps it's the hangover talking but found this a bit disappointing. Clipsticked second bolt on lead from hands on the ledge before doing the mantel which was an interesting manoeuvre. Call me weird but I don't really see the point in what feels like a deliberately badly bolted sport route to give it a "trad feel". Likewise the second to last bolt placed so you can't quite clip it off the ledge. Perhaps to make the climbing feel more exciting than it actually is?...

with Nancy
Tom Seccombe 19/Sep/15 Lead rpt
Joe Costello 22/Jul/15 Lead
R2B 22/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Very good climbing.

Hidden 18/Jul/15 Lead
Hidden 03/Jul/15 Lead
dohart 24/Jun/15 TR RP

Really nice moves and definitely a trad feel to it

with stu bradbury
DorsetGareth 20/Jun/15 Lead O/S

A real treat!

with Barney
WilliamD 11/Jun/15 Lead dog

Climbed this with mum belaying. Took a few rests, but probably could have got the onsight if I were a bit stronger. Soft for the grade.

Laurence Everitt 09/Jun/15 Lead O/S
TGreen 09/Jun/15 Lead dnf

Learning to sport climb with lozzy.

Jackislav 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Top route

manbat 22/May/15 2nd dog

First try was pretty awfully, although I got to the top. Then we went and worked on Double Agent before returning. Second go went really well, took just one rest on the final layback move - took too long thinking about it and got pumped before I committed to the move. Another one to work on.

with Luke Randall
josh Bamsey ?/May/15 Lead O/S
andyman666999 10/Aug/14 Lead β

Superb route definite 3 stars, in keeping with the routes to the left, techy moves with absolutely no pump involved. Overgraded, only around 6b easily.

with Owen Davies
Hidden 07/Aug/14 Lead RP
alice fuller 17/Jul/14 Lead RP

hard 1st move, took a while to work out a sequence for shortish arms.nice climbing afterwards.

Hidden 30/Jun/14 Lead
Macca_7 30/Jun/14 Lead rpt

Nice route with some good climbing nice to do it again after a long while away!

with Laurie Turpin
Hidden 30/Jun/14 TR O/S
dready 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S

nice varied climbing tough with spaced bolts

Hidden 07/Jun/14 Lead
tom169 09/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Adam
edamscooter 09/Mar/14 Lead dog
with Tom
lawsy_boy1 ??/2014 Lead
dbrooks 05/Oct/13 Lead β

ledge above first bolt very wet, dried off and finished clean

with Jay
sam0000 ?/Sep/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 10/Jul/13 2nd
eddy-on-the-rocks 10/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Jun/13 TR
Hidden 19/Jun/13 Lead dog
Hidden 05/Jun/13 Lead dog
Hidden 05/Jun/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 05/Jun/13 TR rpt
mike hooper 05/Jun/13 TR dog

Got it on a top rope fell off middle of the route . This year will be done :-)

with richard hudson
misterb 04/Jun/13 Lead RP

exciting finish,the last bolt before the chains seems to be redundant

with nick
Coops_13 03/Jun/13 Lead RP

Almost got the onsight, did 2nd go

with Jack Brougham, Harry Yarrow
Hidden ?/Jun/13 Lead β
danJBA 29/May/13 Lead dog
Kayan 29/May/13 2nd
Ed morris 05/May/13 Lead O/S

Compared to mayday this route is a straightforward 6c, great climbing, requiring good footwork.

with Colin
oakapple 20/Apr/13 Lead rpt
with Bruce Kerry
Hidden 31/Mar/13 Lead dog
Bristoldave 18/Feb/13 Lead O/S

Dry today

with dave
dmoir 18/Feb/13 Lead O/S
nickstephens 16/Feb/13 Lead O/S

Climbed it twice. The first stepping in from the right off "friend or foe" and second delicately laybacking the borehole itself to avoid the sopping wet mantle. Probably wise to wait for a few more dry days if you dont like it wet :o)

with Will Stuckley
kingholmesy ??/2013 Lead O/S
with Ian
hornbywill ??/2013 -
Hidden 29/Sep/12 TR
Hidden 29/Sep/12 Lead
berry 29/Sep/12 TR dnf
Hidden 29/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Sep/12 TR
Hidden 22/Sep/12 Lead
nickstephens 05/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Luxulyan ?/Sep/12 Lead dog

Project

with Kev Brown
Danny_boulders ?/Sep/12 Lead O/S
gg4419 ?/Sep/12 Lead rpt
tim.fairhall 26/Aug/12 Lead RP
with Hui
rustaldo 17/Jul/12 Lead O/S

was piss-wet through, got soaked doing the mantle! had to take a sock up to dry some of the holds

chudders1 12/May/12 Lead dog

clean 1-4

Chappy 02/May/12 Lead β

My first Sport Climb!!:)

climbhannahclimb 28/Mar/12 TR dog
Spearos 01/Mar/12 Lead rpt
with Mike
Hidden ??/2012 -
Sam4242 ?/Nov/11 Lead dog
i_a_coops 15/Sep/11 Lead β
with Matt
Marti999 08/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Graham C 08/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Marti
Spearos 26/Jun/11 Lead RP
Master Chief 26/Jun/11 TR RP
Master Chief 26/Jun/11 Lead dog

will get it next time!!

nickstephens 19/Jun/11 Lead dog
mbradberry2008 07/Jun/11 Lead dog

Not sure exactly whether I did this, I'm pretty new to sport climbing, fell off once a the early move for the ledge, then got to the top but grabbed the chains at the end?!

pezzerrr 05/Jun/11 Lead O/S
richsmithinbristol 02/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jun/11 Lead RP
Elaine Budden 01/Jun/11 Lead RP

Finally :D

El3ctroFuzz 15/May/11 Lead O/S

Easy for the grade. Done harder F6b+'s. 1 Star.

with Tristan Sherlock, Elaine Budden
Elaine Budden 15/May/11 Lead dog

an amazing climb, so annoyed i came off! :)

with Tristan Sherlock, tom bunn
Tiny climb 15/May/11 Lead RP

fell off the bottom dyno 3 times then got it and did the rest of the route.

jbulger 10/Apr/11 TR
jakenichol 08/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Felt easy for the grade but bolts were committing and often exposed : )

Hidden 08/Mar/11 Lead dnf
Tom Seccombe 07/Mar/11 Lead RP
Tj murray ?/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Amazing climb :))))))

saul cashmore ??/2011 -
cjskelly 12/Sep/10 Lead RP

lay-backing pretty hard mid-way up the route. Very foot-work dependant

Hidden 01/Sep/10 Lead O/S
feilx 29/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Heather
gg4419 ?/Aug/10 Lead RP
nickstephens 03/Jul/10 Lead dog
gg4419 ?/Jul/10 TR RP
mike hooper 21/Jun/10 TR dog

being short 1st mantle very hard & onwards diff but brill will get it by the end of the year....

with rich pollard
gg4419 ?/Jun/10 Lead dog
Hidden 18/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2010 -
nickstephens 28/Sep/09 Lead dnf

Damp and dark is not the way to climb this route! Had to back off as I couldn't see where to put my feet. Definitely will return as it has some great moves.

Hidden 16/Aug/09 Lead rpt
Macca_7 25/Jun/09 Lead β

Really pleased to get this onsight as there are a couple of stiff pulls and a steep groove. So much more improved with the new bolts and lower off.

with Cal Noble
Hidden 14/Jun/09 Lead
Hidden 03/Jun/09 Lead
Mark Kemball 10/Jun/07 TR
with Nic Dill
Mark Kemball 12/Apr/03 Lead
with Lee Bartrop
jfletcher 09/Sep/01 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2000 -
Roget 21/Aug/99 Lead O/S
with jim
9 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
Votes cast 28
Votes cast 30
Style of ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Redpoint
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set