Probably VS 4c if you use the crack to the right as well.

ProtonSL 09/Jul/17 2nd
with Martin
Lessworkmoreclimbing 09/Apr/17 2nd

Hard not to use crack on right

with Kev
will_benfold 25/Mar/17 Lead O/S
with Maciej Reich, Jody Palmer
magiiique 25/Mar/17 2nd dnf
with Jody Palmer, Will
julesmckim 08/Oct/16 2nd O/S

Tough jamming on lower crack. Having found and retrieved two cams in the last two days, we lost one to this route! Good luck getting it out

Ian Stirrups 16/Aug/16 Lead rpt

5 years since I last did this, time enough to forget what a sod it is, don't get much jamming practice in the Wye valley.

with Sue
Hidden 20/May/16 2nd
pheotleyr 20/May/16 Lead O/S
with Mike
ian d f 15/May/16 Lead O/S
with Mark
markfromstoke 15/May/16 2nd


with Ian
HardmanJ 05/Apr/16 2nd O/S
steve-grigg 05/Apr/16 Lead O/S
kcichy 02/Aug/15 2nd
Chris Sieradzki 02/Aug/15 Lead dog
with kcichy
clams ?/May/15 Lead

Pleasant jamming

CatMc ?/May/15 2nd dog
with clams
kp64zl ?/Nov/14 Lead O/S

On a dank damp November day. Getting out of the first crack was pretty hard. The second crack no pushover either, especially since it started raining. Shoving my feet into the crack seemed to work despite poor friction

Gareth T 20/Jul/14 2nd rpt
with Julian
Gareth T 15/Mar/14 2nd O/S
with Tim Popplestone
Hidden 25/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/May/13 2nd O/S
Neil Morbey 09/Jan/13 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2013 -
bonelessivar 20/Oct/12 2nd
with Andy
Hidden 30/Aug/12 Lead
fatbuoybazza 30/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Jim Malo 29/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with Deborah
puppythedog 25/May/12 Lead O/S

Well, I needed practice of Jamming before heading up to climb the old man of hoy and I got it with this. Physically demanding climb if you're not used to jamming. Very happy to have climbed this.

with JOhn Wilson
stevelucocq 19/May/12 Lead rpt
with RichC
Rowan Mitchell 16/Oct/11 Lead dnf

Climbed the first crack and backed off the second. Sent my(cursing) climbing partner up then I seconded clean. God damit!

with Andre Steele
peteruk 22/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Shaky Dog 20/Mar/11 2nd dog

Disturbed what looked like an owl at top of climb

with Harry
grumpyoldjanner 20/Mar/11 Lead dog

2nd attempt at getting it clean. Better than than the first but still took two goes at the wider crack in the top half of the route.

with KDW
Hidden 12/Feb/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 30/Sep/10 2nd β
bpmclimb 30/Sep/10 Lead rpt
with Helen S
stephaneSi 22/Sep/10 2nd dog
Hidden 22/Sep/10 Lead O/S
hotfeet 24/Aug/10 2nd

Awkward lower crack

with Keith
Paul Robertson 22/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 18/May/10 Lead dog
s.c.white 18/May/10 2nd dog

Horrible! Trial by name, trial by nature.

Trisha Murphy 17/May/10 2nd O/S
mike lawrence? 28/Apr/10 Lead
with James the Navigator, Colin
irish paul 21/Mar/10 2nd
with Dave Ripley
Hidden 21/Mar/10 Lead O/S
stvredmond 11/Feb/10 Lead O/S

jamming is a tad difficult in those greasy, slippery limestone cracks, though found a good fist jam in the upper crack

Trefo 11/Feb/10 2nd dog

very tricky for the grade if you're crap at jamming, slipped out of the crack low down, but then climbed it clean after that.Very good lead by Steve!!

mrfeebus ??/2010 -
grumpyoldjanner 15/Sep/09 Lead dog

Rested in a couple of places.

with Scrabbles
DorsetGareth 23/Jun/09 Lead O/S

A superb climb, the main crack is ample for both gear & jamming, there is no need to use another crack off to the side! A firm 5a I think.

cornishben 23/Jun/09 2nd O/S
TimPerkin 11/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Dave Gale
james.lane 31/May/09 2nd
with guidedmountain
Hidden 10/May/09 Lead O/S
Huntlyfiddler 22/Mar/08 2nd
bpmclimb 22/Mar/08 Lead β

But definitely HVS 5a if you don't.

with Clare
greedo ??/2008 Lead dnf
with Tim bray
Circus 10/Aug/07 Lead O/S


with Lou
Mark Salter 24/May/07 2nd O/S
with Chris Shorrock
Kirill 25/Mar/07 2nd
tincann 15/Jun/06 Lead dnf

Had to descend due to a serious incident.

Hidden 11/Jul/05 Lead O/S
Jason Gotel ?/Jun/04 Lead O/S
with Pippa Lansdown
Wil Treasure ?/Jun/03 Lead
with Malcolm
Will Homoky 17/Aug/02 Lead O/S
with Ned Atkins
goi.ashmore 20/Jul/02 Lead O/S
with Roy Thomas
Hidden ?/Feb/01 2nd
Roget 01/May/00 2nd O/S
alan moore ??/2000 -
nigehughes ?/Mar/99 Lead
with Kev Taylor
Hidden 11/Aug/95 Lead
Hidden 02/Mar/91 Lead
Martin Bennett 06/Aug/88 -
with Woody
Steve Lewis 03/Mar/76 Lead O/S
with Morty
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 24
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 23
Votes cast 21
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set