UKC

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A very nice crag with a popular non-tidal upper tier and well-featured rock.

There is a large colony of Herring Gulls which are now on the "red list" of endangered species in the UK, on the mid-height ledge in Spring - early summer,  climbers are requested to avoid this section (see details below) as there is now an agreed seasonal restriction on this venue.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

There are likely to be a number of gulls and chicks during the nesting season on the half-way ledge of B-Team Buttress. At least 18 pairs of Herring gulls are known to nest here, making it one of the most important single sites for Herring gulls on this coastline. Please avoid during 1st March to 31st July.  Routes affected are: 'Cloud Nine, Hang Ten' to 'CDM' on lower tier (routes 6-11 in CC guide) and 'Snap, Popple and Crack' to 'The Jogger' on the upper tier (routes 16-28).  The gulls would make the climbing experience fairly unpleasant so better to choose another crag at this time of year. 

(There are also agreed seasonal restrictions on the adjacent crag of Seaside Gully - see details under this crag)

45m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The best of some indifferent routes up the right-hand side of the buttress, starting from the tidal ledge. Reach this direct by a long abseil.
1) 5b, 20m. Climb the wall left of the cave, to a steep pull up to the main ledge/break.
2) 5a, 25m. Climb a crack to a ledge. Follow the crack left of the overhang to easier ground and the top. © Rockfax

FA. M.Learoyd, S.Lewis, K.Strawbridge 10/Jun/1979.

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Guidebooks for Crickmail Point

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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 5
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 5
Votes cast 5
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Heart of Darkness/New Morning

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Mowing Word)

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