UKC

Restricted Access

One of the more convenient and quick-drying crags in the area. Good sport climbing as well as a reasonable selection of trad routes. The popular routes tend to be polished, especially the starts of those on the Lower Lift.

Whitebeams (a rare species of tree) grow on the crag and are an important feature of the SSSI. Please do not cut any trees on or around the crag without gaining permision first as this could result in access issues in future. If you want to carry out cleaning which involves trees, please contact the BMC access team first through access@thebmc.co.uk.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 February to 15 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

There is a tawny owl nesting on "It's Over for Jehovah". Avoide all routes between "Head full of hedda" and "What you think"

The super-direct version of Silver-tongued Cavalier. Climb straight up the slab avoiding the arĂȘte on the right and the crack on the left, even though it is tempting at the top, otherwise you don't get the full tick. The holds are all there.

G X Percival.

Feedback

User Date Notes
billydonaldcole 11 Nov, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: First 7a (was soft though, but I am somewhat tall)
Show beta
βeta: First 7a (was soft though, but I am somewhat tall)
mike hope 24 Jan, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Maillons removed and replaced with rings. Safe to go. But nuts & bolts need replacing at some point as they are mixed metal.
Show beta
βeta: Maillons removed and replaced with rings. Safe to go. But nuts & bolts need replacing at some point as they are mixed metal.
mike hope 16 Jan, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Beware! The mailon connected directly to the hanger on the left hand lower off, has a crack in it. This lower off station needs replacing asap. (Happy to do it as soon as I can)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Beware! The mailon connected directly to the hanger on the left hand lower off, has a crack in it. This lower off station needs replacing asap. (Happy to do it as soon as I can)
PaulJepson 15 Nov, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: I've put another pair of maillons at the top to stop the rope getting twizzled when lowering.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I've put another pair of maillons at the top to stop the rope getting twizzled when lowering.
PaulJepson 12 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: If the next person on this could take up a couple of mallions/rings for the lower-off, that would be ace. They twizzle the rope currently.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: If the next person on this could take up a couple of mallions/rings for the lower-off, that would be ace. They twizzle the rope currently.
jasperray 23 Feb, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Cruised up on 2nd go after working out the moves on the first dog, I think I got the top easily thanks to having long arms...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Cruised up on 2nd go after working out the moves on the first dog, I think I got the top easily thanks to having long arms...

Logged Ascents

223 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Wyndcliff Quarry

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Voting
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
Votes cast 26
Votes cast 16
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
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