UKC

Restricted Access

Climbing at Chudleigh Rock is an inherently dangerous activity and climbers should be aware of the risk of personal injury and death. The landowner (The Clifford Estate), is very supportive of climbing at the crag, but requires that all climbers using the crag have 3rd party liability insurance cover up to £10 million. This is an integral part of BMC or MCofS membership or can be obtained elsewhere providing it gives the same level of cover.

Fixed equipment on the crag has not been installed by the Clifford Estate Company Ltd and is not the responsibility of The Clifford Estate Company Ltd. Please be aware that the fixed equipment is not checked or maintained by the Clifford Estate Company Ltd and the Clifford Estate Company Ltd accepts no liability for the death or injury of any person involved in climbing arising from fixed equipment failure.

Do not light fires - in the past this has caused damage to plants and the local bat colony, and could gain climbers a poor reputation if it happens in future.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 4 April to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

A nesting owl has been reported near Stalactite Direct - avoid this and nearby routes until the young birds have fledged (likely to be in mid-late June). 
14m.

Rockfax Description
The wide roof crack above the cave is a gritstone meets limestone experience! Start in the corner 4m right of the arete.
1) 5a,16m. Climb up the crack and right wall to a ledge beneath the wide roof crack. A committing layback rapidly gains a ledge above the roof and a short traverse left to a stance.
2) 20m. Traverse left to the edge and climb easy rock to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

West Country Climbs , Bristol Crack School , Chudleigh Challenge , South Devon Stars: Diff - HVS , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200.

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Logged Ascents

247 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Chudleigh Rocks - South Face

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 44
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 38
Votes cast 29
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Inner Sanctuary: Wringapeak to Hedddons mouth

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(The Exmoor Coast Traverse)

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