Rockfax Description
The wide roof crack at the entrance to Pixies Hole is a much-tried problem that proves to be a gritstone meets limestone experience! Start in the corner 4m right of the arete.
1) 5a,16m. Climb up the crack and right wall to a ledge beneath the wide roof crack. A committing layback rapidly gains a ledge above the roof and a short traverse left to a stance.
2) 20m. Traverse left to the edge of the buttress and climb up easy rock to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
This has been upgraded to an HVS and downgraded to a 4c on the Javu Website. Personally I dont agree with either change, but would be interested in others thoughts on this.

Cracking 1st pitch, but dont bother with the 2nd.

Ticklists

West Country Climbs, Bristol Crack School, Chudleigh Challenge

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
rohanpawlowski 13 Sep Lead RP
JoeCoxson 27 Jul Lead O/S Committing layback is pretty spot on, but short-lived.
with Hannah Dry
Committing layback is pretty spot on, but short-lived.
with Hannah Dry
Hidden 15 Jul 2nd rpt
Hidden 15 Jul Lead rpt
Hidden 29 Jun Lead O/S
Hidden 29 Jun 2nd rpt
climbdevon 23 May -
mark4344 7 May Lead dnf Fell at end of crux, arms blown from earlier climbing. Tough route and not much gear. Placed large#4 cam, but needed more.
Fell at end of crux, arms blown from earlier climbing. Tough route and not much gear. Placed large#4 cam, but needed more.
Emsea84 8 Apr -
Lee_Meaden 27 Sep, 2018 2nd O/S P1 only
with Brookey
P1 only
with Brookey
Brookey 27 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S Looooove this route!!!
Looooove this route!!!
rohanpawlowski 1 Sep, 2018 2nd O/S
Cbulman 1 Sep, 2018 Lead dog Didn't notice the jug until too late.
Didn't notice the jug until too late.
Tilt ?Sep, 2018 2nd O/S
with Marc S
with Marc S
steveprice.exmouth 23 Aug, 2018 2nd
with Rob Johnson
with Rob Johnson
R0BJ0N 18 Aug, 2018 Lead rpt
with Steve Price
with Steve Price
Hidden 18 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden 14 Apr, 2018 2nd rpt
timreynolds 14 Apr, 2018 Lead O/S
Chris Ebbutt 14 Apr, 2018 2nd First pitch only
First pitch only
Rob Houston ??, 2018 -
Lumbering Oaf 25 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S P1. 4 Camalot very useful. Bomber size 2 nut too, all prior to crux moves. Commit to the layback and the crack will reward you. Partner managed to do the second pitch but it is very overgrown and needs more traffic.
with tp45597
P1. 4 Camalot very useful. Bomber size 2 nut too, all prior to crux moves. Commit to the layback and the crack will reward you. Partner managed to do the second pitch but it is very overgrown and needs more traffic.
with tp45597
Hidden 25 Aug, 2017 AltLd
Hidden 31 May, 2017 AltLd O/S
Hidden 5 May, 2017 Lead O/S
DredStripe 21 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S super polished feet, committing crux, bring the biggest gear you've got.. :)
with Claire Falck
super polished feet, committing crux, bring the biggest gear you've got.. :)
with Claire Falck
Adam Hill 24 Jun, 2016 AltLd Finished with pitch 2 of Gagool made it a much better climb.
with Simon
Finished with pitch 2 of Gagool made it a much better climb.
with Simon
nickstephens 22 May, 2016 Lead O/S
with stuartf
with stuartf
stuartf 22 May, 2016 2nd rpt
Julesthe1st 1 May, 2016 Lead dnf Bailed as didn't have any big gear for the crack. Would have been the last route of the weekend before the long drive home.
Bailed as didn't have any big gear for the crack. Would have been the last route of the weekend before the long drive home.
Hidden 25 Mar, 2016 Lead rpt
EllieWoods 30 Jan, 2016 2nd O/S
petecallaghan 30 Jan, 2016 Lead rpt Doesn't seem to get any easier. Tho Ellie made it look graceful. Dammit.
Doesn't seem to get any easier. Tho Ellie made it look graceful. Dammit.
sortedjunior ??, 2016 -
outdoorrob999 9 Dec, 2015 2nd
Samuel Wainwright 9 Dec, 2015 Lead G/U
with Emma Smith, outdoorrob999
with Emma Smith, outdoorrob999
Chris Ebbutt 30 Sep, 2015 2nd
Hidden 30 Sep, 2015 Lead dog
Lifesabeach 20 Sep, 2015 2nd
R0BJ0N 14 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S
with Lloyd Purdy
with Lloyd Purdy
Brian H 19 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S P1 only. Then followed Pete up the last two pitches of Farewell to Arms.
P1 only. Then followed Pete up the last two pitches of Farewell to Arms.
alice fuller 19 Jul, 2015 2nd β goodie..don't have o do it again:)easy with Rik 's beta. then did top 2 pitches of Farewell to Arms
with rik meek, Brian H, Kafoozalem
goodie..don't have o do it again:)easy with Rik 's beta. then did top 2 pitches of Farewell to Arms
with rik meek, Brian H, Kafoozalem
LanceSolf 27 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
LDJ 16 May, 2015 AltLd
with Alfie, Lou
with Alfie, Lou
BC 10 Apr, 2015 AltLd O/S
jacobjohncharles 19 Jan, 2015 AltLd β
FATBOYFAT ??, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2015 -
justaddpowder 12 Oct, 2014 Lead
Lifesabeach 15 Sep, 2014 TR
timorme 21 Apr, 2014 TR O/S Took fall due to hold falling out so still counting it as onsight. Also finished on Gagool rather then traversing so when off route but finished on harder route so still counting this one.
with Alex Frosty
Took fall due to hold falling out so still counting it as onsight. Also finished on Gagool rather then traversing so when off route but finished on harder route so still counting this one.
with Alex Frosty
onlyfoddington 14 Mar, 2014 Lead O/S I spent a lot of time trying to place protection (the crack was too wide). In the end I gave up searching and decided that what I had placed should hold and committed. Powerful but on good holds. The second pitch was quite adventurous.
with Kayan
I spent a lot of time trying to place protection (the crack was too wide). In the end I gave up searching and decided that what I had placed should hold and committed. Powerful but on good holds. The second pitch was quite adventurous.
with Kayan
Kayan 14 Mar, 2014 2nd
tom.ben ??, 2014 2nd dog
with Ben Devenish
with Ben Devenish
Tom D ??, 2014 Lead
Webster 2 Jun, 2013 Lead dnf couldn't commit with all the polish on a hot day, pumpy pacing gear
couldn't commit with all the polish on a hot day, pumpy pacing gear
steveprice.exmouth 3 May, 2013 2nd
with David Coley
with David Coley
Grabtheslab ?Mar, 2013 -
Luxulyan 2 Feb, 2013 Lead O/S Would give HVS 5a. Strenuous move around roof, polished feet, hard to place gear, scary but fun!
with Callum
Would give HVS 5a. Strenuous move around roof, polished feet, hard to place gear, scary but fun!
with Callum
Hidden 2 Feb, 2013 Lead rpt
callum brown 2 Feb, 2013 2nd
with Rich
with Rich
Grabtheslab ??, 2013 -
Nick Biven ??, 2013 -
Cheese Monkey 7 Dec, 2012 Lead O/S Had a right nightmare trying to get some gear to stick. Ah well. Tired myself out finding and eventually placing a good cam then flailed around the lip!
Had a right nightmare trying to get some gear to stick. Ah well. Tired myself out finding and eventually placing a good cam then flailed around the lip!
Ian Miller 5 Dec, 2012 2nd dnf
Neil Morbey 3 Nov, 2012 Lead O/S
martin clarke 13 Oct, 2012 Lead dnf First @ second lead fall
First @ second lead fall
1651SP 27 Sep, 2012 AltLd β second pitch. hard move from under the roof
with James Goss
second pitch. hard move from under the roof
with James Goss
MrWiggles 27 Sep, 2012 AltLd O/S 1st pitch lead
with 1651SP
1st pitch lead
with 1651SP
1651SP 27 Sep, 2012 AltLd β second pitch. hard move from under the roof
with James Goss
second pitch. hard move from under the roof
with James Goss
francois 19 Jun, 2012 Lead rpt
Hidden 15 Apr, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 8 Apr, 2012 Lead O/S
dbm 8 Apr, 2012 2nd O/S
with TP
with TP
Mr Powly 21 Mar, 2012 2nd
with burto
with burto
burto 21 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S
with tom powell
with tom powell
bigrob 21 Mar, 2012 Lead dnf backed off due to no gear availible
with si teasedale
backed off due to no gear availible
with si teasedale
dparsons ??, 2012 Lead O/S
cripper ??, 2012 -
with Benw320
with Benw320
twright180 12 Nov, 2011 Lead O/S
Westy 12 Nov, 2011 2nd
RossT 1 Oct, 2011 AltLd
with Andrew Edwards
with Andrew Edwards
Hidden 14 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
Graham C 11 Aug, 2011 2nd O/S
Marti999 11 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
CallumArnold 5 Aug, 2011 2nd RP
with Tom Wheeler
with Tom Wheeler
tomwheeler 5 Aug, 2011 Lead rpt Slight layback to gain the overhang to ledge. Great climb.
Slight layback to gain the overhang to ledge. Great climb.
Bristoldave 15 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S Stayed dry in rain
with nick
Stayed dry in rain
with nick
nickdonohue ?Jun, 2011 Lead polish does make it feel much more insecure! large cams very useful
with Dave Coley
polish does make it feel much more insecure! large cams very useful
with Dave Coley
Hidden 29 Mar, 2011 Lead
Hidden 6 Feb, 2011 Lead O/S
Neil Rigiani 16 Nov, 2010 Lead O/S Julia belayed and then lowered me down to strip the gear.
Julia belayed and then lowered me down to strip the gear.
BelayBunney 22 Sep, 2010 2nd O/S A knee jam in the overhang works well!
A knee jam in the overhang works well!
francois 22 Sep, 2010 Lead O/S Tough to place the gear as the crack is just so wide. Managed to get a bomber hex in after loads of faffing.
Tough to place the gear as the crack is just so wide. Managed to get a bomber hex in after loads of faffing.
Hidden 12 Sep, 2010 2nd rpt
Hidden 17 Aug, 2010 2nd
Hidden 17 Aug, 2010 Lead rpt
Jon_Warner 25 Jul, 2010 Lead dnf Needs big gear. Did not have big gear...
with Tom
Needs big gear. Did not have big gear...
with Tom
culmclimberRob 25 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S agreed 1st pitch great just so polished!!!!! and second pitch is just a bit pance really, the climbing is ok its just needs a good gardening.
with hamish
agreed 1st pitch great just so polished!!!!! and second pitch is just a bit pance really, the climbing is ok its just needs a good gardening.
with hamish
Hidden 17 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
Dave Cooke 16 Jun, 2010 2nd dnf Was doing fine with some beta but when I got to the overhang it disapeared, as did I
Was doing fine with some beta but when I got to the overhang it disapeared, as did I
Frostie 15 Jun, 2010 Lead rpt
with Jason Ellway, Nick Andrews
with Jason Ellway, Nick Andrews
Orifice 15 Jun, 2010 2nd dog
with John Frost
with John Frost
langar27 30 May, 2010 2nd O/S Nice bit of fun for about 30 seconds. Saw people aiding up it. To many climbers punching above their weight me thinks. ...probably reason why the bottom is like an ice rink. Not a HVS Javu!
Nice bit of fun for about 30 seconds. Saw people aiding up it. To many climbers punching above their weight me thinks. ...probably reason why the bottom is like an ice rink. Not a HVS Javu!
JonHarvey 30 May, 2010 Lead O/S 1st pitch only. Wanted to do it for ages don't know why i didn't bother sooner, wicked. Spunky moves on crux ey!
1st pitch only. Wanted to do it for ages don't know why i didn't bother sooner, wicked. Spunky moves on crux ey!
Grabtheslab 20 May, 2010 Lead polished!
with Mykl white
polished!
with Mykl white
Hidden 21 Feb, 2010 Lead O/S
jmhood ??, 2010 -
nblackbeard 12 Dec, 2009 Lead O/S
with Hartmut Erzgraber
with Hartmut Erzgraber
porridgefan 21 Aug, 2009 Lead O/S Abbed off after the first pitch, bit slippery...
with Niall Francis
Abbed off after the first pitch, bit slippery...
with Niall Francis
Hidden 21 Aug, 2009 2nd O/S
petecallaghan 5 Aug, 2009 Lead β Got a big hex in and went for it
with Alex Hartley
Got a big hex in and went for it
with Alex Hartley
Hidden 31 Jul, 2009 Lead O/S
Legs 31 Jul, 2009 2nd
with Macca_7
with Macca_7
petecallaghan 8 Jul, 2009 Lead dnf Placed 3 pieces of gear under the overhang, but only the last big hex was good enough. Ran out steam and ran away
with Alex Hartley
Placed 3 pieces of gear under the overhang, but only the last big hex was good enough. Ran out steam and ran away
with Alex Hartley
w.pettet-smith ?Jul, 2009 Lead 5a!? probably. great fun-it's reputation is well earned. for second pitch wondered around a bit and found a nice steep UNPOLISHED but a tiny bit loose bit round to the left of the mid belay
with badger
5a!? probably. great fun-it's reputation is well earned. for second pitch wondered around a bit and found a nice steep UNPOLISHED but a tiny bit loose bit round to the left of the mid belay
with badger
Mancunianimport ?Jun, 2009 Lead
Hidden 31 May, 2009 2nd
neilmackie 8 May, 2009 Lead O/S
with gerrard
with gerrard
richardadventurecafe 2 Dec, 2008 2nd Took in turns to try and lead - I bottled the crux - Andy led beautifully - need to get a bit more practice in - bit more confidence - maybe some new shoes!!!!
with Andy Owen
Took in turns to try and lead - I bottled the crux - Andy led beautifully - need to get a bit more practice in - bit more confidence - maybe some new shoes!!!!
with Andy Owen
twm 23 Nov, 2008 Lead rpt
with Hannah
with Hannah
Hidden ?Oct, 2008 Lead O/S
twm 20 Sep, 2008 Lead O/S 1st pitch only.
1st pitch only.
Duncan Campbell 13 Sep, 2008 Lead O/S pretty good but only a few hard moves, but reli brought my climbing mojo back!!
with rob steer
pretty good but only a few hard moves, but reli brought my climbing mojo back!!
with rob steer
Jack_F 2 Apr, 2008 Lead O/S
with Adam copper *super*
with Adam copper *super*
cem 24 Mar, 2008 2nd
CrispsSmiths 24 Mar, 2008 Lead
with cem
with cem
Hidden ??, 2008 -
dewrats ??, 2008 Lead O/S
with Oli Boyes , Dave Searle, Chris Barr
with Oli Boyes , Dave Searle, Chris Barr
RobSteer999 ??, 2008 2nd rpt
with Dunky monkey
with Dunky monkey
Justin T 7 Oct, 2007 Lead O/S P1 only abbed off
P1 only abbed off
Hidden 1 Sep, 2007 2nd
Hidden 16 Apr, 2007 Lead O/S
sam coward 31 Mar, 2007 2nd rpt
with Andy
with Andy
COD*OF*ROCK ??, 2007 Lead O/S
with adam cooper
with adam cooper
OliBoyes ??, 2007 -
with Oli Boyes, Nick Baron, Dave Searle
with Oli Boyes, Nick Baron, Dave Searle
climber sim ??, 2007 -
eddy-on-the-rocks ??, 2007 Lead O/S
cmsg 13 Aug, 2006 Lead O/S Abbed off after the first pitch, as the second looked overgrown, mediocre, and little-travelled. First pitch a mind-blower. Yes, it's VS, but barely. You won't get climbing like this at the grade very often.
with Luke Gannarelli
Abbed off after the first pitch, as the second looked overgrown, mediocre, and little-travelled. First pitch a mind-blower. Yes, it's VS, but barely. You won't get climbing like this at the grade very often.
with Luke Gannarelli
Mark Kemball 26 Feb, 2006 AltLd
with Nic Dill
with Nic Dill
Hidden ??, 2006 Lead
sam coward 21 Aug, 2005 Lead dog
with Helen
with Helen
chris j ?Feb, 2005 Lead
Hidden 10 Jun, 2004 AltLd
Ben1983 ?Jun, 2002 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Jun, 2001 Lead O/S
Okecroak 17 Jul, 2000 AltLd
with M Mercy
with M Mercy
Hidden ??, 2000 -
Hidden 6 Oct, 1999 AltLd
petegunn 5 Oct, 1999 AltLd
with Matt Wilkes
with Matt Wilkes
Hidden ?Sep, 1997 Lead G/U
andy_pemberton ?Feb, 1997 Lead
with Rik Meek
with Rik Meek
colin milton 3 Aug, 1995 2nd
with eric milton
with eric milton
shaun stephens ?Jul, 1995 AltLd
with ?
with ?
leadmat ?Jul, 1995 Lead
Dringo ??, 1995 -
tompercy 26 Nov, 1994 AltLd
with Dave Hollinger
with Dave Hollinger
pmot ??, 1994 -
Nettle 1 Oct, 1993 2nd Failed on the lead, Chin stepped in and saved the day!
with Wilf2
Failed on the lead, Chin stepped in and saved the day!
with Wilf2
Hidden ??, 1993 Lead
Hidden ??, 1992 Lead
Roget 24 Jun, 1990 Lead O/S
with jim
with jim
Derek Ryden 4 Feb, 1990 Lead O/S
with Andy Forbes
with Andy Forbes
Chris Ebbutt ??, 1990 Lead
Hidden ??, 1990 -
Mickdenali ??, 1990 Lead
RichardMc 29 Apr, 1989 Lead O/S
with Jon Clifford-Smith
with Jon Clifford-Smith
davidalcock ??, 1988 -
with Philip Scorer
with Philip Scorer
Hidden 22 Nov, 1987 Lead
Hidden 3 Jul, 1987 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 1987 Lead
Hidden ?Mar, 1986 Lead O/S
Pete Nugent ??, 1986 Lead unsure on date!!!
with Steve Stean
unsure on date!!!
with Steve Stean
Hidden 17 Mar, 1985 Lead O/S
mark-abz ?Jun, 1981 2nd
Mike C 19 May, 1980 AltLd
Davy Gunn ??, 1980 -
with Fiona Gunn
with Fiona Gunn
Hidden 10 Nov, 1979 Lead
Steve Bell ??, 1979 -
Simon cook ??, 1978 -
Simon cook ??, 1974 -
clanger ??, 1973 Solo
Steve Woollard ??, 1971 2nd
scott titt ??, 1970 -
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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 40
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 35
Votes cast 25
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set