Rockfax Description
The wide roof crack at the entrance to Pixies Hole is a much-tried problem that proves to be a gritstone meets limestone experience! Start in the corner 4m right of the arete.
1) 5a,16m. Climb up the crack and right wall to a ledge beneath the wide roof crack. A committing layback rapidly gains a ledge above the roof and a short traverse left to a stance.
2) 20m. Traverse left to the edge of the buttress and climb up easy rock to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
This has been upgraded to an HVS and downgraded to a 4c on the Javu Website. Personally I dont agree with either change, but would be interested in others thoughts on this.

Cracking 1st pitch, but dont bother with the 2nd.

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.

Lumbering Oaf 25/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

P1. 4 Camalot very useful. Bomber size 2 nut too, all prior to crux moves. Commit to the layback and the crack will reward you. Partner managed to do the second pitch but it is very overgrown and needs more traffic.

with Tom P
Hidden 25/Aug/17 AltLd
Hidden 31/May/17 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/May/17 Lead O/S
DredStripe 21/Jul/16 Lead O/S

super polished feet, committing crux, bring the biggest gear you've got.. :)

with Claire Falck
Adam Hill 24/Jun/16 AltLd

Finished with pitch 2 of Gagool made it a much better climb.

with Simon
nickstephens 22/May/16 Lead O/S
stuartf 22/May/16 2nd rpt
Julesthe1st 01/May/16 Lead dnf

Bailed as didn't have any big gear for the crack. Would have been the last route of the weekend before the long drive home.

with Cathy
mark schramm 25/Mar/16 Lead rpt
with Dave C
EllieWoods 30/Jan/16 2nd O/S
petecallaghan 30/Jan/16 Lead rpt

Doesn't seem to get any easier. Tho Ellie made it look graceful. Dammit.

sortedjunior ??/2016 -
outdoorrob999 09/Dec/15 2nd
Samuel Wainwright 09/Dec/15 Lead G/U
with Emma Smith, outdoorrob999
Chris Ebbutt 30/Sep/15 2nd
Hidden 30/Sep/15 Lead dog
Lifesabeach 20/Sep/15 2nd
R0BJ0N 14/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Lloyd Purdy
Brian H 19/Jul/15 Lead O/S

P1 only. Then followed Pete up the last two pitches of Farewell to Arms.

alice fuller 19/Jul/15 2nd β

goodie..don't have o do it again:)easy with Rik 's beta. then did top 2 pitches of Farewell to Arms

with rik meek, Brian Hannon, kafoozalem
LanceSolf 27/Jun/15 Lead O/S
LDJ 16/May/15 AltLd
with Alfie, Lou
Hidden 19/Jan/15 AltLd β
FATBOYFAT ??/2015 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2015 -
justaddpowder 12/Oct/14 Lead
with Nathan Robbins
Lifesabeach 15/Sep/14 TR
timorme 21/Apr/14 TR O/S

Took fall due to hold falling out so still counting it as onsight. Also finished on Gagool rather then traversing so when off route but finished on harder route so still counting this one.

with Alex Frosty
onlyfoddington 14/Mar/14 Lead O/S

I spent a lot of time trying to place protection (the crack was too wide). In the end I gave up searching and decided that what I had placed should hold and committed. Powerful but on good holds. The second pitch was quite adventurous.

with James H
Kayan 14/Mar/14 2nd
tom.ben ??/2014 2nd dog
with Ben Devenish
Tom D ??/2014 Lead
Webster 02/Jun/13 Lead dnf

couldn't commit with all the polish on a hot day, pumpy pacing gear

steveprice.exmouth 03/May/13 2nd
with David Coley
Grabtheslab ?/Mar/13 -
Luxulyan 02/Feb/13 Lead O/S

Would give HVS 5a. Strenuous move around roof, polished feet, hard to place gear, scary but fun!

with Callum
mark schramm 02/Feb/13 Lead rpt
callum brown 02/Feb/13 2nd
with Rich
Grabtheslab ??/2013 -
Nick Biven ??/2013 -
Cheese Monkey 07/Dec/12 Lead O/S

Had a right nightmare trying to get some gear to stick. Ah well. Tired myself out finding and eventually placing a good cam then flailed around the lip!

with Ian M
Ian Miller 05/Dec/12 2nd dnf
Neil Morbey 03/Nov/12 Lead O/S
with Dave B
martin clarke 13/Oct/12 Lead dnf

First @ second lead fall

1651SP 27/Sep/12 AltLd β

second pitch. hard move from under the roof

with James Goss
MrWiggles 27/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

1st pitch lead

1651SP 27/Sep/12 AltLd β

second pitch. hard move from under the roof

with James Goss
francois 19/Jun/12 Lead rpt
with Chawn
Hidden 15/Apr/12 Lead O/S
TP 08/Apr/12 Lead O/S
dbm 08/Apr/12 2nd O/S
with Tom P
Mr Powly 21/Mar/12 2nd
with Ian B
burto 21/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with tom powell
Hidden 21/Mar/12 Lead dnf
dparsons ??/2012 Lead O/S
cripper ??/2012 -
with Ben
twright180 12/Nov/11 Lead O/S
Westy 12/Nov/11 2nd
RossT 01/Oct/11 AltLd
with Andrew Edwards
Hidden 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Graham C 11/Aug/11 2nd O/S
with Marti
Marti999 11/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Aug/11 2nd RP
tomwheeler 05/Aug/11 Lead rpt

Slight layback to gain the overhang to ledge. Great climb.

Bristoldave 15/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Stayed dry in rain

with nick
nickdonohue ?/Jun/11 Lead

polish does make it feel much more insecure! large cams very useful

with Dave Coley
Hidden 29/Mar/11 Lead
mark schramm 06/Feb/11 Lead O/S
with tom m
Neil Rigiani 16/Nov/10 Lead O/S

Julia belayed and then lowered me down to strip the gear.

BelayBunney 22/Sep/10 2nd O/S

A knee jam in the overhang works well!

francois 22/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Tough to place the gear as the crack is just so wide. Managed to get a bomber hex in after loads of faffing.

with Chris
Hidden 12/Sep/10 2nd rpt
Hidden 17/Aug/10 2nd
Hidden 17/Aug/10 Lead rpt
Jon_Warner 25/Jul/10 Lead dnf

Needs big gear. Did not have big gear...

with Tom
culmclimberRob 25/Jun/10 Lead O/S

agreed 1st pitch great just so polished!!!!! and second pitch is just a bit pance really, the climbing is ok its just needs a good gardening.

with hamish
Hidden 17/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Dave Cooke 16/Jun/10 2nd dnf

Was doing fine with some beta but when I got to the overhang it disapeared, as did I

Frostie 15/Jun/10 Lead rpt
with Jason Ellway, Nick Andrews
Orifice 15/Jun/10 2nd dog
with John Frost
langar27 30/May/10 2nd O/S

Nice bit of fun for about 30 seconds. Saw people aiding up it. To many climbers punching above their weight me thinks. ...probably reason why the bottom is like an ice rink. Not a HVS Javu!

JonHarvey 30/May/10 Lead O/S

1st pitch only. Wanted to do it for ages don't know why i didn't bother sooner, wicked. Spunky moves on crux ey!

Grabtheslab 20/May/10 Lead


with Mykl white
Hidden 21/Feb/10 Lead O/S
jmhood ??/2010 -
nblackbeard 12/Dec/09 Lead O/S
with Hartmut Erzgraber
porridgefan 21/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Abbed off after the first pitch, bit slippery...

with Niall Francis
Hidden 21/Aug/09 2nd O/S
petecallaghan 05/Aug/09 Lead β

Got a big hex in and went for it

with Alex Hartley
Macca_7 31/Jul/09 Lead O/S

Great route at the grade, packs a lot in to a short crux sequence Tricky. First Pitch only

Legs 31/Jul/09 2nd
with Macca
petecallaghan 08/Jul/09 Lead dnf

Placed 3 pieces of gear under the overhang, but only the last big hex was good enough. Ran out steam and ran away

with Alex Hartley
w.pettet-smith ?/Jul/09 Lead

5a!? probably. great fun-it's reputation is well earned. for second pitch wondered around a bit and found a nice steep UNPOLISHED but a tiny bit loose bit round to the left of the mid belay

with badger
Mancunianimport ?/Jun/09 Lead
Hidden 31/May/09 2nd
Hidden 08/May/09 Lead O/S
richardadventurecafe 02/Dec/08 2nd

Took in turns to try and lead - I bottled the crux - Andy led beautifully - need to get a bit more practice in - bit more confidence - maybe some new shoes!!!!

with Andy Owen
tom169 23/Nov/08 Lead rpt
with Hannah
Hidden ?/Oct/08 Lead O/S
tom169 20/Sep/08 Lead O/S

1st pitch only.

with Laura
Duncan Campbell 13/Sep/08 Lead O/S

pretty good but only a few hard moves, but reli brought my climbing mojo back!!

with rob steer
Jack_F 02/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with Adam copper *super*
cem 24/Mar/08 2nd
CrispsSmiths 24/Mar/08 Lead
with cem
Hidden ??/2008 -
dewrats ??/2008 Lead O/S
with Oli Boyes , Dave Searle, Chris Barr
RobSteer999 ??/2008 2nd rpt
with Dunky monkey
Justin T 07/Oct/07 Lead O/S

P1 only abbed off

with Wifey
Hidden 01/Sep/07 2nd
Hidden 16/Apr/07 Lead O/S
sam coward 31/Mar/07 2nd rpt
with Andy
COD*OF*ROCK ??/2007 Lead O/S
with adam cooper
OliBoyes ??/2007 -
with Oli Boyes, Nick Baron, Dave Searle
climber sim ??/2007 -
eddy-on-the-rocks ??/2007 Lead O/S
cmsg 13/Aug/06 Lead O/S

Abbed off after the first pitch, as the second looked overgrown, mediocre, and little-travelled. First pitch a mind-blower. Yes, it's VS, but barely. You won't get climbing like this at the grade very often.

with Luke Gannarelli
Mark Kemball 26/Feb/06 AltLd
with Nic Dill
Hidden ??/2006 Lead
sam coward 21/Aug/05 Lead dog
with Helen
chris j ?/Feb/05 Lead
Hidden 10/Jun/04 AltLd
Ben1983 ?/Jun/02 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/01 Lead O/S
Okecroak 17/Jul/00 AltLd
with M Mercy
Hidden ??/2000 -
Hidden 06/Oct/99 AltLd
Hidden 05/Oct/99 AltLd
Hidden ?/Sep/97 Lead G/U
andy_pemberton ?/Feb/97 Lead
with Rik Meek
colin milton 03/Aug/95 2nd
with eric milton
Hidden ?/Jul/95 AltLd
leadmat ?/Jul/95 Lead
Dringo ??/1995 -
tompercy 26/Nov/94 AltLd
with Dave Hollinger
pmot ??/1994 -
Hidden ??/1993 Lead
Roget 24/Jun/90 Lead O/S
with jim
Derek Ryden 04/Feb/90 Lead O/S
with Andy Forbes
Chris Ebbutt ??/1990 Lead
Hidden ??/1990 -
Mickdenali ??/1990 Lead
RichardMc 29/Apr/89 Lead O/S
with Jon Clifford-Smith
davidalcock ??/1988 -
with Philip Scorer
Hidden 22/Nov/87 Lead
Hidden 03/Jul/87 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1987 Lead
clark alston ?/Mar/86 Lead O/S

1st pitch.

Pete Nugent ??/1986 Lead

unsure on date!!!

with Steve Stean
Hidden 17/Mar/85 Lead O/S
mark-abz ?/Jun/81 2nd
Mike C 19/May/80 AltLd
Hidden 10/Nov/79 Lead
Steve Bell ??/1979 -
Simon cook ??/1978 -
Simon cook ??/1974 -
Steve Woollard ??/1971 2nd
Hidden ??/1970 -
15 users have this on their wishlist
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 38
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 34
Votes cast 23
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set