Restricted Access
There have been serious problems here in the past but access appears less problematic providing climbers keep a low profile. The quarries are owned by Gwynedd Council who make it clear that there is no offical access due to public safety reasons - there are high fences and signs prohibiting access, but there have not been any reports of practical access problems for many years.
In early 2017 planning permisson was granted for a new hydro-electric power station on the site. When works starts on this (unkknow time-scale) its likley that access to some of the quarries will be permenently lost, especially to Mancer and Film Set Quarries as these will become flooded to produce a holding reservoir.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
- Due to nesting Peregrines and Choughs (both species have legal protection under the Wildlife & Countryside Act), some climbing in the Gideon Quarry (all routes on Gideon Terrace and Cracking up areas) is restricted from March 1st until the end of June.
Rockfax Description
Poor climbing on the right of the slab.
1) 5b, 10m. Climb the short groove and traverse 10m right into a large corner-groove and belay.
2) 5a, 15m. Climb up the groove with nothing in the way of gear. © Rockfax
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Guidebooks for Gideon Quarries
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Girdle Traverse Of The Lower Amphitheatre Wall
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Craig Yr Ysfa)