UKC

Restricted Access

Easy access  but tidal. Lots of conservation interest including nesting  birds and a very rare flower - the South Stack Spathulate Fleawort - a nationally rare endemic species that grows along the cliff edges. No gardening or placing of any additional belay stakes allowed anywhere on this coastline.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 February to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Refer to current guide book (Gogarth South by Ground Up) for individual seasonal route access info - however these have been slightly amended since 2018. The dates for each section are different due to the different bird species present :-

Seasonal restrictions apply to the following cliffs and routes :

Botox Zawn - restriction for "Salute of the Tengu" to "RAF Brown Slab" Feb 1st to June 30th. 

One Stack Zawn - Restriction amended and reduced to include "Angel of the West" only (nest is in the cave to the right. Feb 1st to June 30th.

Anvil Porus Area - as in guidebook, All routes restricted, Feb 1st to July 31st (Razorbill Colony) 

Ementhal Zawn - as in guidebook, all routes restricted, Feb 1st to July 31st

Housetrap Zawn - as in guidebook, the whole zawn is restricted due to nesting Choughs Feb 1st to June 30th.

Pooh Bay - as in guidebook - Nesting Choughs, Feb 1st to June 30th.

Dichotomous Wall- as in guidebook, nesting Choughs Feb 1st to June 30th. 

The Fortress (Dinas) - as in guidebook  2 pairs of Choughs nesting here Feb 1st to June 30th. 

Rockfax Description
A classic of The Range, this lip traverse of a large cave is wild. It is best found by making you way onto the sub-island as for The Snake so you can see where it is to arrange an abseil. From small ledges, above high water, head up to the roof and arrange protection before setting off across the lip of the cave via an exciting sequence. © Rockfax

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Guidebooks for The Range

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High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Route of Interest
Warpath

Grade: E5 6a ***
(Rhoscolyn)

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