UKC

50m, 2 pitches. This route presents a couple of bold pitches with diverting moves on good rock; the second pitch is particularly worthwhile and towards the top end of this grade. Start just right of the very base of the cliff; a little to the right of The Cracks/Direct Route start area, down and slightly to the right of the twin horns .
P1 5a 20m Climb the slabs easily to the base of a groove just down and right of the twin horns. Enter the groove and climb it boldly to reach the base of the large detached flake (on Diagonal), from its top left edge, move out left and swing round the rib airily to reach and belay on Direct Route; or, just a little left of it to keep out of the way.
P2 5c 30m Head diagonally up left along the base of the slab past a pocketed area (Lorraine Var. goes straight up here) to reach a diagonal cracks trending up left. Go right then up to gain the base of the wide crack at some heather, arrange some gear in a thinner crack to the left, then drop down and left to a fantastic position. With hands in the crack system and feet on small holds down below the rib, on the steep wall. Work your way up to an easing, where you can go back left again to follow the insipid crack and tackle the bold double crux moves up the rib edge.

I A Jones, B Reed (on sight AL) 15/Jul/2015.

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Route of Interest
Gawr

Grade: E3 6a ***
(Y Clawdd)

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