190m, 6 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A great, long route up the striking ridge passing the overhang of the Gash.
1) 45m. Start 35m left of South Gully, just above a widening in the terrace. Follow a small groove to an overlap at 9m. Turn this rightwards and climb easier ground up and right to ledges beneath the ridge proper and the left-hand end of the Gash.
2) 18m. Follow the ribbed wall up to the large sloping ledge of the Gash, a feature that looks like a giant took a swing with an axe at the crag. Belay on the far right beneath the chimney.
3) 20m. Follow the awkward chimney. On the final move, your foot will slip several times before you finally get enough purchase to escape. Climb the wall above leftwards to the ridge.
4) 38m. Follow the exposed and rough ridge (various belays possible).
5) 38m. Continue up the ridge to reach a good ledge below the final tower.
6) 17m. Several alternatives can be found here, most feel hard. Climb the groove past a tricky roof. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Classic Rock, North Wales Rock Graded List, ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, North wales road to ruins HVS, The Original 'Classic Rock' List, Long Rock.

Hidden 27/Aug/17 AltLd
mike fenwick 25/Aug/17 Solo
Hidden 13/Aug/17 AltLd
Steve Dunton 09/Jul/17 AltLd
with Gordon Wilkie
David Cowley 08/Jul/17 Lead O/S
Chris.Brown87 08/Jul/17 Lead O/S

Very polished in the chimney. Would have been easier without the rucksack.

Hidden 08/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
Wallman 08/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
with David, Toby, Johannes
jobangles 08/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
with Rupert
david morse 01/Jul/17 Lead rpt

Superb day out with the team

with Whitesnake
PanzerHanzler 01/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
with Paul H
Andrew Sandercock 01/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

In a business suit wearing a laptop bag, Blackshaw's stag.

with Al Blackshaw
Hidden 01/Jul/17 AltLd
77paul 01/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
with Andy hansler, Darrel Hodges
Hidden 01/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
admcne 17/Jun/17 AltLd O/S

Lewis lead P1&2, Iain P3,4&5, I led P6

lewis_james84 17/Jun/17 AltLd
with IainMay
Jack Manfredi 17/Jun/17 -
with Andy wilcox, Dad
IainMay 17/Jun/17 AltLd O/S

Pitches 3, 4, 5.

john jennings 14/Jun/17 AltLd
with Andy
stephheeley 31/May/17 AltLd O/S
Hidden 31/May/17 AltLd
foostu4 31/May/17 AltLd O/S

Moved together for most

James Worthington 31/May/17 AltLd

I led the odd pitches

with Emma, Henry
kingjam 28/May/17 Lead

Lovely climb on nice rock , first chimney is a bugger. Climbed in big boots, led all pitches and descended the north ridge

with Craig Higgins
George Frisby 28/May/17 Lead dnf

Pitch one very wet, decided to bail from pitch two to the right into South Gully and descended. Got about 60m in 6 hrs!

John Elliott 07/May/17 AltLd
Hidden 07/May/17 AltLd O/S
daveeeglover 06/May/17 Lead O/S

hard for VD

with Jim Glover
annie hilator ?/May/17 2nd dnf

Spent couple of hours in the Gashed crag in a cloud of wet drizzle. Just like the name suggests it gets soggy AF in the rain. Sliding up first pitch in trainers so decided to escape and scramble up the gulley at the side. Got soaked to the knees and totally lost. a few alpine coils and a few hours later eventually backtracked. Zero stars when wet don't even attempt

with George
Stuie73 25/Apr/17 Lead

Went up to have a look at gashed crag with Claire having soloed overlapping rib route (including yellow slab) the previous day. loved the route, harder than expected for the grade, 1st chimney HS in my opinion and had to haul sacks up after as it was as tight as a nat's chuff!. Had a coffee on the gash and then bumbled up to the bubbly wall where a pair of climbers were taking a long time to tackle the final chimney so looked at bubbly wall and decided to leave for some drier rock and traversed off to the left to top out. Lovely evening at summit, had a coffee then headed down. Excellent day, wont forget that lead for a long time, classic!!! 3 stars.

with Claire
cbonner 23/Apr/17 Lead O/S
cols1982 23/Apr/17 AltLd

We wondered off route after the second pitch somehow, and therefore missed the first of the horrible chimneys! I only lead pitches 2 and 4 - found the final pitch (6 - but 8 for us!) polished and unpleasant and had to back down and send Chris up :/ All in all a fairly adventurous day out!

with cbonner
Ian Stirrups 08/Apr/17 AltLd O/S

Only other time was some 40 years ago, with Dave Stoney

with Sue
Robertspd2 02/Apr/17 AltLd


Tim Ford 26/Mar/17 AltLd dnf

We underestimated the walk in to the crag so we started late, lead the first pitch fine and then my partner lead the second pitch the group below us decided to ab off due to the time I started the chimney but half way up decided that today was not the day as I struggled to get up and I was not sure my partner would have been able to get up either so we decided to come back down as well and joined the group below in abseiling off the first pitch. although we didn't get up we had a lot of fun and we will be back.

Lydaisy 26/Mar/17 AltLd dnf
with Tim
Hidden 21/Jan/17 AltLd O/S
David Cowley ??/2017 Lead
Hidden ??/2017 Lead
67hours 28/Dec/16 AltLd O/S
Clay C 28/Dec/16 AltLd O/S
with Ross
Hidden 28/Dec/16 AltLd O/S
MusicalMountaineer 11/Dec/16 AltLd rpt

Third of our three Classic Rock ticks today. Great leads from Joe in sub-optimal conditions. Epic 12 hour day, 7-7 with obligatory benightment. Hexes, chimneys, grease, cursing... Definitely a Classic Rock day. Belting.

with Joe
fuzzysheep01 11/Dec/16 AltLd O/S

Chimney pitch utterly desperate - ended up hauling rucksack. Arête pitch was very nice, the rest a bit green and generally awkward. Led chimney pitch up to the start of the arête and the final pitch (also hare and slimy) after opting against a dripping wet bubbly wall. Topped out in dark after ticking the three bug classics in a day, exhausted and filthy! Excellent entertainment.

jacksmith_ 05/Nov/16 AltLd

Hail, snow, rain and sun! great climb made epic by the conditions

MusicalMountaineer 29/Oct/16 Lead O/S

Traditional (is that a grade?). Pure filth until after the chimney (which was sodden, and full of slime). Beautiful clean, rough rock after that. Spicy move on the final pitch. A real classic.

with Sean Thwaites
jennym32 17/Sep/16 2nd O/S

Wet in places. Some very awkward chimneys Definitely not as good as some of the others on the face but was the only one without a queue on the day!

with Chris Allewell
Hidden 14/Sep/16 2nd
Hidden 14/Sep/16 AltLd
robgixer 10/Sep/16 Lead
Hidden 27/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Joemanglerocks 27/Aug/16 Lead
with Kelly Hogan
Chris Murray 24/Aug/16 AltLd

Led P2, 3, 5 and 6. My favourite of the three Classic Rock routes on the E face (probably....)

with Richard Bower
aylabarratt17 16/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Ayla
rockafunked ?/Aug/16 AltLd

Wet in places. Led pitches 1, 3, 4, 5 and 6. Pitch 3 - bottom of chimney marginally protectable with offsets. Pitch 4 - exit leftwards to the ridge per Rockfax - don't try the slabby crimpy wall straight ahead if any of your party wears B3 boots. Pitch 6 - we went up the offwidth to the right of the roof - bring Camalot 4 and the largest hexes.

Hidden 31/Jul/16 AltLd
rachelpearce01 30/Jul/16 Lead

Not what we wanted to do but the other climb had tonnes of people on, so chose this as it looked like there was no one on it.... well we got the start wrong. I climbed the first pitch and it definitely didnt feel like a VD. Saw a guy bealying over to the right and shouted across asking what they were on. It turned out that they were doing gashed crag so scrambled over and started after them. Turned out to be a very long day. We should have overtaken them instantly but when they offered it was emilys lead and she wasnt keen to do the chimney so we didnt pass them. One of the dudes was your classic all the gear (literally, even a micro belay incase he dropped his!) and not much idea.... The climbing, when we got on the proper route was pretty good and easy. FOund the chimneys a bit tricky with a big rucksack on, so ended up going back down, taking it off and then hauling it up after I led it. Midges were really bad for the last 2 pitches, so leading as quick as possible, not stopping to place much gear. even had to have a cigarette with em to keep them away! but all in all an amusing day! first big multi pitch alone

Emily_vau 30/Jul/16 Lead

Wanted to do Grooved Arete but there was a big queue so we decided on this, a bit wet. Found the chimneys difficult but all in all a good day out!

AngelaC 17/Jul/16 AltLd

HS finish on Bubbly wall

Happy Haggis 02/Jul/16 2nd

Bit of a sandbag - very traditional! But a great adventure. Finished up Bubbly Wall.

with Garry Smith & Claire Long
ginger 30/Jun/16 AltLd
with Nick
Hidden 18/Jun/16 Lead
HJSmith 18/Jun/16 AltLd

Very awkward chimney - won't be thinking of doing it again soon....!

with Andy
MoWalker3 18/Jun/16 -
with Dan
Sean Kelly 11/Jun/16 AltLd

It rained so was quite greasy in places!

with Nick Williams
ClareSenny 04/Jun/16 AltLd
with Adrian
Hidden 04/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
DavidH89 30/May/16 AltLd
with Pete
Chris Manasseh 29/May/16 Lead
with Hannah Carrington
TJ Mather 29/May/16 AltLd O/S

Linked with Direct Route on Milestone.

with Ben
Theeni 22/May/16 AltLd
guisboro andy 15/May/16 AltLd
Elliot King LC&CC 15/May/16 Lead O/S

Very busy did slight variation to void slow people, placed only little gear did it fast and light!

with Tony Flint
Jonnie Watkins 15/May/16 AltLd
MikeLell 15/May/16 Solo O/S
G Weatherley 15/May/16 Lead

Found route finding quite difficult after the chimney pitch.

Hidden 14/May/16 2nd
Rob Moorcroft 14/May/16 Lead
10029759 08/May/16 AltLd
hairy51 08/May/16 AltLd

Great adventure, agree with others, chimney pitch felt hard for VDIFF, but it's all there! Went straight up the crack and over the overhand at the top, exposed, but easy climbing and tons of gear.

Hidden 06/May/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 06/May/16 AltLd O/S
Conan ?/May/16 Lead
with KMC
Hidden ?/May/16 Solo O/S
shaun hunt 19/Mar/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19/Mar/16 AltLd O/S
Ste Ridd 19/Mar/16 AltLd

Awesome day but cold with rime forming on the upper pitches which made the final chimney "interesting".

Rory Shaw ??/2016 -
davebrox ??/2016 -
Tim Sparrow ??/2016 -
SteveCarratt ??/2016 -
Climbingspike ??/2016 -
Mike Roger ??/2016 -
mountain musher ??/2016 AltLd
John Bunney ??/2016 -
Wainers44 15/Oct/15 2nd
Samuel Wainwright 15/Oct/15 AltLd O/S

Chilly! Two chimneys on one route - what a treat!

with wainers
Louvet 27/Sep/15 -
with Tarquin
Tarquin 27/Sep/15 -
with Louise
Ruth Allan 27/Sep/15 2nd O/S
Cornish boy 27/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

Awesome route with varied climbing, some of which is strenuous. Done in 6 pitches. Sean odds, me evens. Finished up bubbly wall after traversing left under the overhang. We both thought it tough for the grade. Fantastic weather.

with Sean
Hidden 27/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Matt Bill Platypus 19/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

Block leading. I did 1 to 3.5. James the rest. Not really a 3 star route.

spearing05 19/Sep/15 AltLd

The chimney after the gash can be climbed from the outside if you have long enough arms - even with a rucksack - much to my amusement after all the grunting and groaning from Andrew. Bubbly wall as final pitch

with Andrew
Hidden 19/Sep/15 AltLd
Hidden 19/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
joermann 17/Sep/15 AltLd
Ron Rees Davies 10/Sep/15 AltLd


with Alan
wurzelinzummerset 10/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

Led all except a scrambly bit before the last chimney as Ron forgot his rockshoes (but made a good effort in his trainers). Memorable for the unpleasant looking chimneys that are probably awkward whatever grade you climb, but surprisingly good fun once you get stuck in.

with Ron
David_Gledson 07/Sep/15 Solo O/S
SuperstarDJ 30/Aug/15 Lead dnf

Led first two pitches before abandoning due to my second not enjoying it. Much harder than Overlapping Ridge Route, quite sustained vdiff with some exposure and wet rock. Was a little glad not to have to tackle the polished chimney with exposure above. Bad call on my part to take a multi pitch novice on the route. Lowered/abseiled 25m to traverse onto Overlapping Ridge Route which put the fun back into the day.

with Rachel Partington
JCookie 30/Aug/15 AltLd

I led first pitch but it was wet and slimy so I stopped a bit short. Richard led one pitch and Steve led the rest, including both slimy chimneys. A grand and testing day out, with half of the route in the cloud. Just what Bank holiday weekends are made for! By the way- superstar DJ, I picked up your screwgate and no.6 nut- any way I can get them back to you??

with Steve Grey, Richard Plater
RiPomc 30/Aug/15 AltLd

Lead p4 as per CC guide. Second half of p3 according to Rockfax

with Steve Grey, Julie Cooke
Steve954 11/Aug/15 AltLd rpt

That bloody chimney....

with Rich
Jim Malo 08/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Hugh
flannery 07/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
with iain, ed, Jack
Hidden 03/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
andrewmc 03/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 1 & 2, moving together, and was then belayed through the chimney on pitch 3 (had to leave the backpack behind! plus was wearing approach shoes...). There is no gear on the chimney except threads at the top and bottom, although it is shorter than it looks. Zack led the rest, moving together again. The alpine-style ridge at the top was fun, and we must have taken the wrong groove at the top (went extremely direct) as it was quite hard!

Hidden 02/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
davenev 02/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
with Graham
blakey ?/Aug/15 Lead
chris wyatt 31/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Damp greasy and pretty hard I thought. HS for me

with richard from tricouni club
Hidden 30/Jul/15 AltLd
neal 12/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

Moving together/quick pitching in big boots. Some rain, but good route. 1st chimney quite tricky in wet/big boots!

Dazluke2000 11/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jul/15 2nd
Monkey_Alan ?/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

Totally sandbagged Trace with the polished chimney - I didn't realise it would be *that* hard.

Trace ?/Jul/15 AltLd
Stanners 18/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Nice to be up there in much better conditions this time! And even got to do the adam and eve jump this time around :) welcome back to N wales.

with Andy G
Hidden 11/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
garetheverett 10/Jun/15 2nd
with Arwel
Trevers 07/Jun/15 AltLd

Big boots turned this into a challenging day out. Adam avoided the chimney with an exposed traverse on the right. My boots were just too small to be able to lead the final chimney to the top out

wjcdean 07/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

In big boots. Lead pitches 1, 2 and 6. Chimney looked horrid so avoided on the right, good lead from Adam there. Awesome challenging day. Took a line on the right up a thrutchy chimney to finish instead of the standard finish

sam_owen41 07/Jun/15 Lead
BStar 07/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

P3 + 4. In big boots, avoided the horrid chimney with a very exposed but worthwhile alternative pitch. The chimney was not happening in big boots no matter how hard I tried!

Hidden 06/Jun/15 Lead
Hidden 23/May/15 AltLd O/S
PeteMc 23/May/15 AltLd O/S

In big boots.

odari 16/May/15 -

Harder than VD and some sections are very exposed. The chimney is extremely polished and non protegible until almost the exit, I'd give it a HS; then follows a section of face climb with poor gear if any, that's another run out, a big one. The second chimney at the top is more an offwidth and although slightly steeper is easier and takes loads of gear.

Martin Rowe 19/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Apr/15 AltLd
Gavinwm 18/Apr/15 2nd dog

First multi pitch climb. I lead pitch 2 and 6.

Hidden 11/Apr/15 Solo
will484 11/Apr/15 2nd
with david pillow
Hidden 08/Apr/15 2nd
TCarrick 07/Apr/15 Lead
TCarrick 07/Apr/15 Lead
Hidden 06/Apr/15 AltLd
Rob Evans ?/Apr/15 Lead O/S
andrew549 20/Mar/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2015 -
jcw ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
Mike Bayley ??/2015 -
Mike Bayley ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 AltLd
partz 29/Nov/14 Lead O/S

Hmmm went a bit off route and ended up on the LHS of the gash...Some interesting climbing and route finding got us back on track though. Adventurous nonetheless

with Angel Lee, Scarlett Barton
pearson9596 15/Nov/14 AltLd rpt
j.buckley87 15/Nov/14 Lead O/S
Chris Oldfield 15/Nov/14 2nd β

Proper mountaineering, great approach and descent! Absolutely wicked. The wet bits were surprisingly sketchy.

with James Buckley, Stu Warren
TimCul 15/Nov/14 AltLd
Hidden 27/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21/Sep/14 -
markK6 14/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Misty morning meant finding the start was tricky. Climbed in big boots except the crux chimney which was a shiny battle even in stickies, we removed our sacks and hauled them up that pitch. the rest of the climb was great and exposed.

with Ben
mellorno1 14/Sep/14 2nd O/S

Great mountain climb, the 1st chimney is very polished. Good climbing on the ridge above and fun last chimney!

with Mark
Ben Hollands 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Fantastic long route with good situations

with Wendy Anderson
Pete Sanger 23/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/14 -
ashsleight 22/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Another Tryfan classic

with Student
Hidden 11/Jul/14 Solo
robthered 23/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21/Jun/14 AltLd
LauraChilterns 14/Jun/14 AltLd dnf

Bailed after second pitch

with Dominic Turner
Julesthe1st 14/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with Bart
stemill 14/Jun/14 AltLd

Moving together

with Mark
anth12 08/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Led p1, p3, p5 & half p6

with Leachy7
leachy7 ?/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with anth12
JoeWilliams ?/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Kate
Dale Berry 31/May/14 Solo O/S

Glad of my cordelette to allow the chimney to be climbed without my pack. The ridge above is very good. Just a shame for the broken nature of the pitches low down and the little bit of vegetation higher up.

jon59 30/May/14 Lead
paul79 27/May/14 Lead
mrginna 27/May/14 AltLd rpt
with johnny
Heather Osborne 27/May/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27/May/14 AltLd O/S
monkeymatt 18/May/14 AltLd O/S

My first multi-pitch

Hidden 18/May/14 AltLd O/S
Mikethe boar 17/May/14 AltLd
with Rick Mattheson
Hidden 16/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/May/14 Solo O/S
Hidden 14/May/14 AltLd O/S
PhiltheAgg 10/May/14 AltLd O/S
Sidekick 03/May/14 Lead O/S
bigbobbyking 03/May/14 Lead O/S

Went the wrong way on pitch two, had to down climb to get back to the right bit.

with Matt Shreeve
saxonzulu 27/Apr/14 AltLd
willyboy 18/Apr/14 -

Great view, great belay spots, great climb

Derek Ryden 18/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
with William Taylor, Glynne Andrew
Hidden 10/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
McPhail92 10/Apr/14 2nd O/S

In mountain boots. Awkward chimney but well protected and fairly straight forward.

danny269 ?/Mar/14 AltLd

went off route and topped out in the dark

with Stanley
Alfie Conn ??/2014 -
nj.harris ??/2014 -
yesbutnobutyesbut ??/2014 -
danex ??/2014 AltLd
Hidden ??/2014 AltLd
peakcaver ??/2014 -
Allanfairfechan ??/2014 Lead
with Charlie Jordan
Mickdenali ??/2014 Lead
with Ann Bierd
Calum Wadsworth 07/Dec/13 AltLd O/S

Pretty darn wet. Some tricky moves in the ridiculously slippy conditions!

with micki
MSchobitz 07/Dec/13 AltLd O/S

Led P1, 3 and 5. Rain with some hail turned the "awkward chimney" into a terribly slimy experience. Not even going to comment on the sixth pitch...

stanleynkk ?/Nov/13 AltLd RP

Wet, wet and wet

with Danny Barden
mcondon ?/Nov/13 Lead
thompsettjack 15/Oct/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
dkd ?/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with James Hoyle (FRCC)
stratandrew 31/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Excellent Mountaineering route. Done in the dry in rock shoes. Led P1, P3(the Gash), P5&6

smoreda 31/Aug/13 2nd
Stuart Hurworth 31/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Excellent climb with continued interest throughout. The chimney is tricky but isn't that tough if you've got the moves and there is an exposed jug ladder to its right! Finished on bubbly wall.

with Manchester Climbing Club
Hidden 26/Aug/13 AltLd rpt
AlexFletcher 25/Aug/13 AltLd

Sam lead 1, 3 and 5, I lead 2, 4 and chimney at top of Munich Climb (VS) as the top pitch

sam26051 25/Aug/13 AltLd
Hidden 19/Aug/13 Lead
tomdadom 10/Aug/13 AltLd
with Richard Beckett
mrginna 10/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Every pitch. Didn't do the third pitch due to traffic and climbed up left instead. Great fun

with aj
thomaspomfrett 09/Aug/13 Solo O/S

Cheeky evening solo, 2 hours camp to camp

with Stu Mcinnes
ivebittenoffmorethanicanstu 27/Jul/13 2nd β
liverpooldave 27/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

with Cheshire Steve

runestone 27/Jul/13 AltLd
with Dave Liv
BradleyWhite 21/Jul/13 Lead
onlyfoddington 20/Jul/13 AltLd

Went a bit off route after the polished chimney, crossing some easy ground and some more chalenging bits. B3s and bags. Some simu-climbing.

with Adam
Toronto 20/Jul/13 2nd
with Elved Roberts
Hidden 20/Jul/13 2nd
Hidden 14/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
jacksonm1 13/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Lovely climb for the grade, pity about the midges nearer the top.

shed_hed 06/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Catherine Lawrence
Cat Lawrence 06/Jul/13 2nd
with Darren McMaster
alooker ?/Jul/13 AltLd

Moved together mostly with b3s and rucksacks. Long day of doing laps

with David
Craigyboy13 29/Jun/13 AltLd
sheelba 29/Jun/13 AltLd

Climbed entirely on the outside of the chimney, seemed pretty straight forward. Beware the guidebook description and topo of the last pitch seems to be either wrong or severely misleading in the classics rockfax book. The actual finish is to the right and doesn't involve a roof (the book possible describes the finish to crackerjack HS), we finished up the arete climb instead.

james_hill81 23/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

the chimney in the middle was quite hard, polished and little gear, climbing was a bit patchy in places but worth doing all the same

daviemj 08/Jun/13 AltLd RP

A fantastic climb. This was our second attempt at it. The fist attempt was on a cold day, we had trouble finding heather terrace and the route in fog. It got cold and the climbing was slow so we abseiled off on the third pitch. Today, as BMC has been going on about, the conditions were perfect. We started from the campsite at the bottom of Tryfan at 5:30am and completed the climb in about 4:45hrs. It was a superb climb and I'd recommend it. It has every style of climbing you could imagine for the grade and, in places, requires some cojones. It is indeed a pure 3 star. Bring on the next one! Tips: - You're climbing for a long time so make sure you have a lot of snacking stuff. And remember to eat them! - Have a couple of prussicks and a spare length of prussick cord to make abseilling off feesible. - Get there nice and early. It can take a bit of time and the camp site at the bottom of little Tryfan is cheap and cheerful.

ads 08/Jun/13 AltLd
with Julie
BradleyWhite 08/Jun/13 Lead
Sam Maher 08/Jun/13 AltLd β

After a previous failed attempt we finally did our first multipitch. I lead the Gash this time setting up the pitches pretty much as suggested in the guidebook. There were lots of great bits but best were the Gash itself, the 70m pitch on the main ridge and the final chimney (because we couldn't say we'd done it by not finishing it off the way it was intended). The final chimney was suggested to be harder than i found mind. I lead P2 (inc the gash, P5a and 6. Mike did P1 combined P3+4, and P5b with his usual tenacity.

with Mike Davie
morgan91 08/Jun/13 AltLd
Brannock 31/May/13 AltLd O/S
MPSBunny 31/May/13 AltLd O/S
Will Gordon 26/May/13 AltLd O/S

Led P2, 3 and 6.

Hidden 26/May/13 AltLd
shavec 06/May/13 Lead

Lead every pitch apart from the chimney, which some one else did for me. Good climb but intimidating chimney which I backed off on first attempt.

with Aileen Lyons
beds74 06/May/13 Lead

Big mountaineering classic. Becks had fun in the chimney... Team below had to get 3rd party to lead it for him. Quite bold but ok once your in. Another classic done.

with Rebecca Edwards
Sam Maher 05/May/13 AltLd dnf

Started well but soon caught up with slower climbers on the route which lead to an hour and a half long belay... most uncomfortable and cold. 1st time multipitching and really must be more prepared before trying the route again! Made it just past the 1st awkward chimney which Mike lead before getting lost and deciding to abseil off a small spike into the gully before it got too dark.

with Mike Davie
Hidden 03/Mar/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12/Jan/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/Jan/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
senior rita ??/2013 Lead
Richard Kinsman ??/2013 Lead O/S
brenzy83 27/Oct/12 AltLd O/S

very cold....snow in areas couldn't feel toes or fingers...first few sections felt harder than vd...first time i climbed alpine style...very much enjoyed the whole experience got to jump from adam and eve

with Andrew "willy" Willson
AWOODM71 21/Oct/12 2nd dnf

Bottled after first pitch and abseiled back down

with Andy Speed
Hidden 20/Oct/12 Lead O/S
ScottieMunro1984 20/Oct/12 2nd O/S

40 walk on to heather terrace. 6 hours climbing as route was busy. weather was clear. Geoff Burton as Lead.

suds_01 14/Oct/12 AltLd
with Alaister begley, Jackson
Hidden 09/Oct/12 Lead
Ewan Russell 09/Oct/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 09/Oct/12 AltLd
SteveM 06/Oct/12 Solo
Jimb0 22/Sep/12 AltLd
with Ander
Ander 22/Sep/12 AltLd

"Blue moon, you left me standing alone..."

with Jimb0
cdpuk 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Guide book said 30 min approach but it took us more like 90 min, and we didn't go far wrong trying to find the route! P1 and P2 weren't anything too special. P3's chimney was definitely harder than VDiff and we had to haul our rucksacks up on one of the ropes. P4 and P5 very enjoyable with a nice spike for an anchor roughly half way up to the main ledge. I'm not sure exactly where P6 was meant to go, but given the strengthening cold southerly wind, we went right up a wide crack. Took about 7 hrs total. Made it back to the pub in time for food. Fantastic weather apart from the last hour or so.

KLucy 15/Sep/12 2nd
George_Surf 08/Sep/12 Lead O/S

4 hours car to car. A quick walk up to heather terrace and we saw about 6 groups on Grooved Arete, decided to go for Gashed Crag instead. Quite interesting climbing not always easy to read the route. The two chimneys are interesting. The arete pitches above the gash were brilliant.

with Andy Sanderson
KevinJ 08/Sep/12 AltLd
with Nige H
Zoomer 05/Sep/12 Lead

The summer finally arrived and after looking at this route since i started climbing, i finally managed it! Leading 2 students on a climbing experience week. Good route, good company.

with A Student
Hidden 05/Sep/12 2nd O/S
spags88 05/Sep/12 2nd

Best climb so far with good views from the ledges and also some scary moves, good sense of achivement to reach the top

with gary mitchell
afinley 26/Aug/12 2nd

First ever multi-pitch.

with Gareth Candlin
elbeanio 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Jul/12 AltLd
Jones_88 22/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Haul your rucksack up the bastard chimney of doom on a long sling or two instead of struggling with it on!

Hidden 21/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
Simon Caldwell 21/Jul/12 AltLd rpt

In 6 pitches, missing out the final chimney in favour of Bubbly Wall instead. I climbed this route about 14 years ago, but the only pitch I could remember was the chimney.

with Carmen
tom bre 01/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Very wet crag on arrival. Days weather better than forecast though each pitch felt harder than V Diff. Done in 5 pitches with pitch 4 having exceptional quality. Lead 1, 3, 5

Hidden 01/Jul/12 AltLd
Iain_L_32 ?/Jul/12 AltLd
Graham Westbrook 29/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20/Jun/12 -
Hidden 12/Jun/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 12/Jun/12 AltLd
mattkemp70 ?/Jun/12 AltLd
with Westy
Hidden 26/May/12 AltLd
Danjones 26/May/12 Lead O/S

Good trad mountain route. Bit polished in places but still enjoyable. Finished up bubbly wall which was nice finishing pitch.

with Simon Cash
Stephen Halliday 12/May/12 AltLd β
Badgers 12/May/12 AltLd
Truan 06/May/12 2nd

Very cold, light snow. Tricky first chimney.

Stewart Armstrong 06/May/12 AltLd O/S

still cold.

with Truan Willis, Richard Spencer
Hidden 06/May/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/May/12 AltLd
Mistee 14/Apr/12 2nd

Horrid - threw up twice. Pretty sure we missed the start of the route. Seemed very messy - not worth the stars. Had to ab off two pitches short of top. Just confirmed that I managed to fracture a rib on abseil and then it snowed.

with Phil
Hidden 14/Apr/12 Lead dnf
robblowen 13/Apr/12 AltLd O/S

Fantastic day out, sun to start and snow to finish, brilliant day in the hills. Led pitches 1,3&5.

with John
Hidden 28/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
stevemcg 24/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
with Gareth
Moomin.williams 24/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
Alex 74 23/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
with Dave m
CM1992 13/Mar/12 Lead dnf

Had trouble with the chimney and traversed off rightwards also managed to drop my nutkey, I will return

joey123 13/Mar/12 2nd dnf
with Chris Miller
adam clarke 11/Mar/12 AltLd
with James Hulme
AndyMcCoy 25/Feb/12 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 2,4,6. Last chimney hard for VD, especially when carrying a rucksack

with Adrian
Hidden 21/Jan/12 AltLd O/S
murray 21/Jan/12 AltLd
with Nicolas
ashtond6 ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 Lead
Hidden ??/2012 -
captain dringo ??/2012 -
matt perks ??/2012 -
goadventure1 ??/2012 -
Darron ??/2012 -
Stone Idle ??/2012 -
TheAndyBarker ??/2012 -
TheAndyBarker ??/2012 -
Andrew will wilson ??/2012 AltLd O/S
Hidden 03/Dec/11 AltLd dnf
jon59 27/Nov/11 AltLd

made for interesting climbing on a wet day in mountain boots

markhowley 13/Nov/11 AltLd dnf

meandering difficult routefinding?! Last pitch tricky overhang and running out of time. Escaped with an abseil into south gully.

with Jon Naylor
Hidden 06/Nov/11 AltLd O/S
cameron_hall 05/Nov/11 AltLd rpt
pearson9596 05/Nov/11 AltLd O/S
ian d f 05/Nov/11 Lead O/S

Moved together on most of it. The last pitch was wet and slimy. Some nice bits.

will_benfold 05/Nov/11 AltLd O/S
with Cameron
jshields 25/Sep/11 Lead

First done with Ian Hicks May 2004.

mandy talbot ?/Sep/11 AltLd
rbyrne84 22/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Josh12 07/Aug/11 AltLd
with Terry Hewitt
Hidden ?/Aug/11 AltLd
Hidden 24/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 24/Jul/11 AltLd
uremac83 14/Jul/11 -

24 degree weather, clear views over ogwen valley.

with Richie Williams
Hidden 13/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Run_Ross_Run 13/Jul/11 AltLd

undergraded and overrated. Too much polish to enjoy and is no way as good as Grooved Arete. Dissapointed.

vincentvega 10/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Agree that the route is under-graded due to the two main difficulties, (the 2 chimneys). Great route, first time out since breaking my foot 12 months ago!!

with danny robb
Fiskavaig 03/Jul/11 AltLd

Assumed the gash to be vertical not horizontal! so off route from the start.Climbed some nice ribs for one pitch,then a meter wide slab, then realized we were off route,did some pioneering climbing, till it was possible to move right and back on the route well above the gash. Finished up the very physical chimney.

with Paul R
banjoSanchez 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Great fun; sunny day but chilly in the shade. James and Mandeep were very new to trad so I lead everything. Not sure about my route finding at the bottom or straight after the squeeze chimney.

wilkie14c 09/Jun/11 AltLd
with Dave Clarke
np134 03/Jun/11 Solo O/S
with T. Frost, N. Howett
Hidden 03/Jun/11 Solo O/S
TRFrost 03/Jun/11 Solo O/S
with N. Price, N. Howett
Hidden 20/May/11 AltLd
Hidden 17/May/11 AltLd dnf
lithos 02/May/11 AltLd

cock up at end not getting the right chimney cost us 30 mins. Cant remember anything of it, perhaps i hadn't done it before ! Gales force winds made it cold !

jwpil 01/May/11 AltLd O/S

Pitched the groval, moved together on the rest.

with Ben
benscarter 01/May/11 AltLd O/S

moved together for most of this

with Jack
Hidden 30/Apr/11 Lead O/S
kes1 30/Apr/11 AltLd
Denzil Gunner 27/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with Nick, Adam
adamwesthead 27/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Move on final pitch beneath and around overhang is not v diff... 4a move so must be severe at least. The polished chimney was 4a min with poor protection so again should be HS technically, but realistically S 4a would be a better grade. Good climbing though

with Denzil, Hoult
JonHarvey 27/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

2nd route of the day out of 3.

with Michael Maben
tex.ryan 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with jib jib
JIMJIM 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S
adam06 08/Apr/11 AltLd
with Tim Watts, dan sturman
Martin Lilley 03/Apr/11 Lead dnf

Rain falling as we started, followed by hail showers filling up the holds. Chilly, cold day. Lead first four pitches including around the outside of the chimney on Pitch three. Gave up two pitches from the top shivering and abseiled down into the gully and then again lower down after retrieving the rope each time. For a day after a long dry spell...

with Carolyn
Hidden ?/Apr/11 AltLd
mark_jc ?/Apr/11 -
Kap 21/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 2,3,5&6

fleapitfan 21/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

Surely a lot harder than V-Diff? Looks like it'd take a long time to dry out, too.

david morse 08/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

exited chimney to be greeted by hotaches. Quality route

with oli
oliverharold 08/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19/Feb/11 AltLd dnf
Hidden 12/Feb/11 AltLd dnf
Binder 12/Feb/11 AltLd dnf

Very cold, a few route finding problems. The chimney (my lead) was pretty horrible, especially with a rucksack! A numb-hands effort. Abseiled off into South gully from bottom of the final pitch/chimney, due to cold and darkness. Top of south summit 6.20 in dark.

with Chiz
Hidden 23/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
adam clarke 16/Jan/11 2nd dnf

Abseiled off after pitch two, waterfalls everywhere and strong winds

with James Hulme
Hidden ??/2011 AltLd
franny ??/2011 -
Tobias at Home ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 AltLd dnf
Tobias at Home ??/2011 -
rurp ??/2011 Lead
Hidden ??/2011 -
djromberg ??/2011 -
paul birch ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
brianrunner ??/2011 -
Swirly ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
snakes77 15/Oct/10 2nd dnf

Not my cup of tea, not sure about the grade either, P3 chimney is nothing sort of ridiculous unless your 3st wet!!! gear not great too. Abseiled off after the chimney due to the weather changing dramatically, I guess we will re-visit but no time soon. (Before you start traditionalist I'M NOT SLAGGING THIS OFF)

with Monkey1
monkey1 15/Oct/10 Lead

O'dear... Wasn't impressed by first couple of pitches, chimney was ridiculous for a vdiff with or without sacks (which we hoisted seperately), then it rained. 'WET GASH'

with Snakes77
Matthew Edwards 09/Oct/10 AltLd dnf

Very misty, less than 20m visibility. Led 1st pitch, Homer led 2nd, the realized that the horizontal V notch was 10m right so came down, decided to back off on some tat as we didn't fancy a wet chimney as the pitch 1 was sketchy. Homer left my blue no.8 nut in a crack.

tonymw 25/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
with Richard Carratu
frost 22/Sep/10 AltLd

climbed as the last route of the day in high wind and driving rain. grooved arete,north buttrss,first pinnacle rib 5.30 car to car.

with D Almond
malstewart 09/Sep/10 Lead
Hidden 04/Sep/10 AltLd
MJP 04/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 3 (up the gash) and 5 (nice bit along the top of the rib)

with Kate Webster, Sam Hardman
Roget 04/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
with jim
JamesBurton 22/Aug/10 2nd β
with Henry Olver, Mike Kean
Darrell Read 22/Aug/10 AltLd
Hidden 22/Aug/10 Lead O/S
mol 22/Aug/10 Lead
with Jesse
31770 22/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Aug/10 Lead
superdiamondgeezer 21/Aug/10 Lead O/S
bobpilgrem 11/Aug/10 AltLd

Intermitent rain made route more challenging ! Great route- top chimney much easier than the P3 chimney.

with Bob/Tom
tompilgrem 11/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Lead p 2+4 then pissed it down, remained just about climbable. Still was a great route, p4 being the best.

with Dad
MikeB1 08/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Nice climb, not as clean rock as FPR next door. Messed up first pitch and 2nd slipped off and hit the ground, unhurt luckily. 40m first pitch not such a great idea.

Hidden 08/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
gregoldridge ?/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Mark Peasley
alaster tonge ?/Aug/10 Lead dnf

wet day turned into underwater diving as we hit the chimney. abseiled off

crag_monster ?/Aug/10 AltLd
teflonpete 31/Jul/10 Lead dnf

Abbed off the top of the first chimney when it started to rain. Desperately greasy in the wet.

with Amy
Hidden 31/Jul/10 AltLd
broc 12/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Sarah
rustaldo 12/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Finally got my brother to come climbing. A great route and day out. Fantastic features.

with Tom
liamnkaz 10/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

Started climbing at 11:00, swapped leads, one awful chimney each, topped out 7:30, longer than expected walk off in fading light, missed pub. Great day!

Hidden 03/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Richard L ?/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

Liam led 1st pitch and ran into 2nd. Walked to start of 3rd which I led. Liam 4th - horrible narrow chimney, me 5th. ridge in 3 pitches. I led final chimney. Took too long on climb, took wrong path on descent and missed food in pub. Other than that a great day!

with Liam
mike hooper 26/Jun/10 AltLd

had a good day full day of sunshine

with rich pollard, dave dean
Hidden 25/Jun/10 -
AsleepOnBelay 25/Jun/10 -
with saya
Hidden 22/Jun/10 AltLd
georgenvk 05/Jun/10 Lead O/S
howlingbaboon 04/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
with Rob
Peter Holder 02/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
with James Dunn
Hidden 31/May/10 2nd
tedburt 30/May/10 AltLd O/S

Led P1,3,5

with Aaron Burdett
carl_123 28/May/10 AltLd O/S
JasonV 03/May/10 Lead O/S
with Jon
fizzychewitt 03/May/10 AltLd
with Phil
Martin Stevens 03/May/10 AltLd rpt

Mervyn got p1 (full rope length). Lead p2 to the Gash. Mervyn lead p3 (polished chimney). Swung leads on the next 250ft. I lead the final chimney.

with Mervyn L.
ed_1973 27/Apr/10 AltLd
tradguy 27/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
with Ed Lamb
Hidden 26/Apr/10 -
Lawrence Eccles 18/Apr/10 2nd O/S
Nicholas Livesey 17/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

Minor epic due to slow second and difficulties in the chimney...teamed up with Rob and Dave for the final chimney. 12 hours car to car :-s

with Jim Hobson
robhorton 17/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

Took rather longer than expected for "various reasons" (see previous entry). Some interesting chimneys and great top-out.

andyebbens 16/Apr/10 AltLd
with Paul
Ken Taylor ??/2010 -
laurentb ??/2010 AltLd
moz ??/2010 2nd
with Chris
Hidden ??/2010 -
rustaldo 16/Dec/09 AltLd dnf

retreated due to weather.. SNOW! gutted after a long trek to get to the start..

Jonny M 12/Dec/09 AltLd O/S
Marq 12/Dec/09 AltLd
aide 26/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Easy scramble, not worth roping up for, leave your big boots on and run up it to the start of Munich Climb!

Trisha Murphy 13/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
with lex
cbeard 30/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
jonnyhawkins1 30/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with charlie beard
ChristosXpristos 29/Aug/09 AltLd dog
Hidden 22/Aug/09 Solo
bridget143 08/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Alpine style - pitched the chimney.

with Sion
tiga271 05/Aug/09 AltLd

led 1st pitch,bit damp, got chimney after the gash

with mark20
mark20 05/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

Good long climbing, less scrambling sections than most on Tryfan, my fav so far

igneouscarl ?/Aug/09 Lead
iamac 24/Jul/09 -

enjoyed the first few pitches, went off route to finish some way to the left of where we should have. The polish was unreal and made it feel much harder! Thankfully dry weather prevailed.

with Huw
The Bad Cough 18/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
rayash 10/Jul/09 AltLd
with chris,mary
OwenF 06/Jul/09 2nd dnf

Abseiled off after 1st pitch as slow progress wouldn't allow an early finish

Big Steve C ?/Jul/09 AltLd
with Sammi
Jillybean 14/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with Od and Emma
Emma Danis 14/Jun/09 2nd
with Jilldo, Od
Od 14/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with Jill Reinsch
edmitchell 13/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with kai ren
jimorothy 11/Jun/09 AltLd

Preferred to Grooved Arete. Gash chimney v tricky with rucksack.

with Rachel Crolla
cooper leek 10/May/09 AltLd O/S
with donk
donkster 10/May/09 AltLd O/S

Very wet!

with ben
benparratt ?/May/09 AltLd O/S
Jake Howard 11/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
with Mark Stitson, Sam Strong
Hidden 11/Apr/09 AltLd
Twisty 04/Apr/09 AltLd O/S

- I say clean onsight, I did fall over on one ledge, so should I have said dogged!?

with Rayan Sammut
Hidden 04/Apr/09 2nd
chubbyclimber 14/Mar/09 -
with Fred
keith leonard ??/2009 -
nikmorgan ??/2009 Lead

Great route.

with Felicity
Hidden 30/Nov/08 2nd dnf
eclipse 29/Nov/08 2nd
with Gareth Thomas
Gareth T 29/Nov/08 Lead dog

Winter conditions, Ice on first pitch caused a minor epic and last chimney was iced up, had to escape to left.

with Tim Clark
Hidden 12/Oct/08 Lead O/S
Monk 12/Oct/08 AltLd O/S

Done in big boots and very wet in places. A nice enough climb, but not even close to 3 stars in my opinion.

with Matt Hartgrove
Hidden 21/Sep/08 Lead O/S
profb 21/Sep/08 2nd O/S

Wasn't feeling confident after my fall the day before and hadn't placed gear or set a belay in a long time so happy to second.

with Steven Love
Stuart Macfarlane 20/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
with Jeanie
HughM 13/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
with Iain Sharpe
thompson1000 12/Sep/08 AltLd
Hidden ?/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13/Jul/08 Solo O/S
laurencehicks 01/Jun/08 Lead O/S

good value chimneys are fun!

with kev
Hidden ?/Jun/08 2nd
My Gravity 24/May/08 AltLd O/S
with Ben P
arakis74 03/May/08 AltLd

Great climb but surely harder than a VD? Maybe due to the extensive polishing and possibly going off route slighlty to the adjacent routes

with Martyn Lock, Mark Fyles
birbeck ?/May/08 AltLd O/S
with Richard Heard
kitkat78 14/Feb/08 AltLd O/S
with SteveM
SteveM 14/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with Kat
mr rob ??/2008 -
Wayne S ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
gdb4060 01/Dec/07 Lead
with Greg
colly 30/Sep/07 -

Andy Chapman, Leon, Neil Mike, Peter Harder than V Diff surely

Neil Metcalfe101 30/Sep/07 2nd
with Peter & Keith. 2nd group Andy, Mike,Leon
Hidden 30/Sep/07 AltLd dnf
Graeme Hammond 27/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Pete aka Dad
Hidden 02/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 18/Jul/07 AltLd O/S
Caralynh 12/Jun/07 AltLd O/S

Part of the 3 classics in a day. Moved together for most of it, traditional style.

paul_d 12/Jun/07 AltLd O/S
martin one 09/Jun/07 AltLd O/S
with Barry V
BazVee 09/Jun/07 AltLd
with Martin
Hidden 11/May/07 Lead
caroline256 ?/May/07 2nd
with Will
JdotP 21/Apr/07 AltLd O/S

I think we may have got a bit off-route.

with Bike Bore, Chris Banks
adi bryant 19/Apr/07 Solo
HimTiggins 14/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
with Paul
duncan 12/Apr/07 Solo O/S
leonjones 07/Apr/07 Lead

Started a bit late, climbed too slow and finished in the dark! Not as good as Grooved Arete.

with Andy Schofield
cliffy 06/Apr/07 Lead O/S

Helped friends finish at 10.30pm

with John Mair
LiLaMont 04/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
tobydunford 04/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
Glyn 26/Mar/07 Lead O/S

My dad found the smooth chimneys quite challenging. Went off route and did Bubbly wall severe to finish. Much to to displease of my father when he had to second it!

with Clive Hudson (father)
Hidden 24/Feb/07 AltLd rpt
Hidden ?/Jan/07 Lead
timmy-ts ??/2007 -
Dom Whillans ??/2007 -
Ian Andrews ??/2007 AltLd O/S
with Pete Williams, Martin Worthy, Fran Gowling
tumbling wizard ??/2007 Lead
fran04 ??/2007 AltLd
Hidden 11/Oct/06 AltLd
mortimea ?/Oct/06 2nd
with Roger Jackson, Mark Chaplin, Simon
franny 15/Sep/06 2nd
Steve John B 11/Sep/06 2nd

First outdoor climb. Broke world swearing record trying to get into the chimney.

with Paul and Rob
A Crook 10/Sep/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/06 Lead
steven ?/Sep/06 AltLd O/S
with Simon Dawson
AR ?/Sep/06 AltLd O/S

A lovely day out. The chimney with a rucksack was quite horrible :).

with Peter
Ing 27/Aug/06 2nd
with Guillaume and Marion
Brown 22/Aug/06 Solo O/S
Hidden 12/Aug/06 Lead
RiPomc 06/Aug/06 AltLd

I took the first pitch and alternated from there.

with Richard Brownsword
emlynroberts 22/Jul/06 AltLd
with Polly Spencer-Velcott
Jenko 17/Jun/06 Lead O/S

Two main difficulties presented by a) the short chimney at the RH side of the gash (a brief struggle) b)the final pitch (protectable)

with Nigel Heritage
coffeepot 28/May/06 2nd
with jelaby
mooseloose 06/May/06 AltLd

What grade is that top pitch? VDiffMA(rse)? Was wet and route suitably polished

with Alan Rocky Roberts
Hidden ?/Apr/06 Lead
mikelaing ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
robo84 ??/2006 AltLd
robo84 ??/2006 AltLd
Tim W 13/Nov/05 AltLd O/S

Big boots, cold and damp

Hidden 13/Nov/05 AltLd
scorky345 ?/Nov/05 Lead
with Joe Corcoran
caradoc 23/Oct/05 AltLd O/S

I met a guy called Steve at the bottom of the route, he said he bouldered at V4 so we set off up Gashed Crag. I had an old rope that I used for hauling my bag so we thought it better not to fall off. All went well and we shook hands at the top and went our separate ways.

aturner99 15/Oct/05 2nd
with Mark Gee
Hidden 15/Oct/05 AltLd O/S
Luke Brooks ?/Oct/05 Lead O/S
with Melanie Clayton
Hidden 24/Sep/05 2nd
victim of mathematics 11/Sep/05 Lead O/S

Went somewhat off route near the start and didn't rejoin the main route until the final chimney. An interesting adventure in thick mist.

pyreneesjim 11/Sep/05 2nd O/S
Marq 11/Sep/05 AltLd O/S


with Rich Cole
mark4344 10/Aug/05 Lead
with Dale Knox
Hopevalleypaul 16/Jul/05 AltLd

The Cashin Variation

with Mike C
Hidden ?/Jul/05 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/05 AltLd O/S
SecretSquirrel ?/Jun/05 AltLd O/S
with Philip
jack243 ?/May/05 Lead O/S

My first lead!!!!!

with Rob H
Hidden ?/Apr/05 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/Mar/05 Lead
Different Steve ?/Mar/05 AltLd O/S

Excellent value for VDiff - tweed clothing and big boots the kit of choice for the two chimneys!

with Martin Hore & Sheila Norman
Steve Lenartowicz ??/2005 -
with Clare
Rhian Wood ??/2005 -
Hidden 31/Dec/04 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Dec/04 2nd
Hidden ?/Nov/04 Lead O/S
Wil Treasure ?/Aug/04 AltLd O/S

In light rain in big boots - we struggled at the short offwidth, thought we wouldn't make it for a minute!

with Malcolm
lithos ?/Jun/04 Lead
with jules+ pete
BALD EAGLE 15/Feb/04 AltLd
with Will Wykes
paul m hadley ??/2004 -
MontyH 01/Sep/03 Lead O/S

great fun took us about 6hrs door to door

with Andy Lawrance
Hidden 06/Jul/03 Lead
John HW ?/Jun/03 AltLd
with Rhys HW
Jon Pilling ?/Jun/03 2nd O/S
with steve prescott, Mark Pilling
Hidden ?/Jun/03 AltLd
bms 29/May/03 AltLd
with BCS
unfit 29/Apr/03 AltLd
with john N
nrg8125 15/Mar/03 AltLd
Hidden 03/Aug/02 AltLd O/S
Samuel P 03/Aug/02 2nd
with Kevin, Gareth
Gman ?/Aug/02 AltLd O/S
with Ed
Mark Davies PK ?/Jul/02 Lead O/S
with Fiend
shaun walby ?/Jun/02 AltLd O/S
Jacob Ram 12/May/02 -
Andy Clarke 05/May/02 Lead O/S

A great day out, following on from Direct Route on the Milestone.

with PeteD
Tarquin ??/2002 -
Hidden 26/Aug/01 Lead
John Marsland 30/Jul/01 Solo
pete johnson 16/Jun/01 -
with Lun
Paul-Michael 20/May/01 Lead O/S
with Emma Day
Howard J 01/Oct/00 AltLd O/S
with Dave Checkley
rockjedi12345 ?/Oct/00 Lead O/S
with Phil Mathews
oscaig ??/2000 AltLd O/S

Cold early spring day with a dusting of the white stuff after a snow shower during the night. Climbed in big boots until we got to the desperate, dripping wet and polished gash. Steve was making no headway so I tried with rubbers I'd brought just in case and minus the sack. Was still character building stuff!

with Steve Reeves
alan moore ??/2000 Solo
J1PEF ??/2000 -
Hidden 30/Aug/99 Solo
EllieWoods 04/Jun/99 AltLd O/S
with Iestyn
Hidden ?/Jun/99 AltLd
BenTiffin ?/Jun/99 Lead
with Kate Wheatcroft
Hidden ?/Jun/99 AltLd
Tarquin ??/1999 -
mjeffery ??/1999 -
barryjacks 07/Oct/98 2nd
with Andrew Maddison
Tenko 08/Aug/98 AltLd O/S
with JAck Pezzey and Dave Allen
paul birch ?/Aug/98 -
Dom Goodwin 06/Jun/98 Lead
with Peter
AndySL 02/May/98 AltLd O/S

Climbed incorporating Munich.

with Jerry
Hidden ??/1998 Lead
Hidden ??/1998 Lead
Simon Caldwell ??/1998 Lead O/S

climbed sometime in the late 1990s. Mike left his rock shoes in the car so I did most/all the leading.

with Mike
Bob M 13/Dec/97 -

The rock was very greasy and cold which made the climb a more adventurous proposition than we had expected. Pam took a 20 foot fall on the pitch below the Gash, tipping upside down but luckily ending up below a small overhang with no ill effects. We reached the summit at 4 pm in the gathering gloom and fumbled our way down as darkness fell.

with Pam Jolliffe
bags ?/Jul/97 2nd
iskra2000 21/Mar/97 AltLd
with Danuska Rycerz
snowy_woodruff 15/Feb/97 -

ice and snow

Hidden 26/Jan/97 -
IanGilbertJones 18/Jun/96 Solo O/S
Hidden 08/May/96 AltLd O/S
Marti999 ?/May/96 Lead
Hidden ??/1996 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Oct/95 AltLd
Rog Wilko ?/Aug/95 Lead
with Debbie Wilkinson
Budge ?/Jul/95 AltLd O/S
with Richard Teed
Tim Bateman 24/Jun/95 AltLd
sixties 25/May/95 -
with hrd
sixties 25/May/95 -
with hrd
Hidden ??/1995 AltLd O/S
Bullybones ??/1995 -
Ian Robertson ??/1995 AltLd
Hidden 19/Nov/94 AltLd
JiveWeasel 28/May/94 AltLd

Included Munich

with Al H
stokienomad ??/1994 -
stokienomad 21/Nov/93 AltLd

Was well below zero.

Hidden 23/Sep/93 Lead
babymoac 24/Apr/93 AltLd
with Big Steve
Hidden ??/1992 AltLd
JamieAyres ?/Apr/91 Lead O/S
with Jude Ayres
timreynolds 28/Sep/90 AltLd
with Andy Phillips
Hidden ?/Aug/90 Solo
Hidden 01/Jun/90 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1990 AltLd
Ched ??/1990 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
Andy Say 20/Oct/89 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/89 Lead
surfbish 05/Jun/89 Lead O/S
gringo1804 ?/May/89 AltLd O/S
Sean Kelly ?/Jan/89 AltLd

Winter ascent in lean conditions but very cold!

with Paul Harding
Hidden 17/Sep/88 Lead
Raggar 16/Jul/88 AltLd
with Guy C, Steve B
nigehughes ?/Apr/88 AltLd
with Colin Bell
GuyC ?/Apr/88 AltLd O/S

In big boots in pouring rain with Steve B (who thankfully led crux chimney)

with Rick G
scree ?/Oct/87 -
Raggar ?/Aug/87 AltLd
with Andy R
Backinthegame ?/Jun/86 AltLd
Raggar 27/May/86 -
with mike p
michael burrows 05/May/86 AltLd O/S
with dave lloyd
Nick Biven ??/1986 -
Iain Thow 29/Sep/85 Solo

Also led (alts 1,2&6) + Pram Singh 29/8/92, raining.

Ian Archer 27/Sep/85 AltLd
with Tony Green
Chris Craggs ??/1985 -
with Sherri Davy
biggianthead 04/Aug/84 -
with HT
wynaptomos ?/Jul/84 Solo
nigehughes ?/Jul/83 Lead
with Cranwell Cadets
Nigel Bond 14/Feb/82 Lead
with Charlie Leverton
roncaves 15/Apr/81 AltLd
with Jon Caves
mikej 01/Feb/81 Lead
with Mike Mason
MikeDowsett ??/1981 AltLd
with Jon Sharpe
Mark Kemball 20/Jul/80 AltLd
with John Jefferies, Angela Carson
Steve Woollard ??/1980 Lead
Richard Weller 04/Sep/79 AltLd
with Richard White
Hidden ?/Apr/79 Lead O/S
RichardMc 11/Nov/77 AltLd
with Tony Williams
Falko 05/Dec/74 AltLd O/S

"Snow" pencilled beside route description in Ron James guide

with Bill Briggs
Bolt Phobia 26/Apr/73 Lead
Martin Bennett ?/Mar/73 Solo
with Solo
Rob Davies ??/1972 2nd
with Allan Sleight, John Lumley
zukator ??/1970 -
rogerskews ??/1970 AltLd
with Martin Coward
pneame ?/Apr/69 AltLd
with Tich Smitton
Gordon Stainforth 31/Jul/68 AltLd
with John Stainforth
kjacks ??/1967 Lead
with John Davies, Con Heede
uphillnow ??/1963 AltLd

Climbed many times since

with John Sargeant
oldmanofmow ?/Apr/62 AltLd

NWMC meet

with Dave Binns
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