UKC

Rockfax Description
A tough and well-named route where technique and nerve will stand you in good stead. Can be lichenous.
1) 5a, 30m. Nip up the left-slanting groove to gain the ledge. Climb diagonally right to gain another ledge. From the right-hand side of this, climb the wall above to belay on the next ledge.
2) 5a, 18m. Head up the wall on good holds. Step left above the overlap into a groove. Climb this, then traverse right to a ledge.
3) 5a, 25m. Drop down 2m and traverse right to a ledge on the nose of the buttress. Move rightwards and then head diagonally left past sloping ledges to a grassy terrace.
4) 5a, 40m. Move left on the ledge to climb a steep wall into a groove. Climb the groove and easy slabs to the Bilberry Ledge. © Rockfax

Ticklists

UK Lonely Leads , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist

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High E2
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High E1
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High HVS
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Votes cast 9
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
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High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 9
Votes cast 10
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Plum

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog))

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