Rockfax Description
A tough and well-named proposition where technique and nerve will stand you in good stead.
1) 5a, 30m. Nip up the leftward slanting groove to gain the ledge. Climb diagonally right to gain another ledge. From the right-hand side of this, climb the wall above to belay on the next ledge.
2) 5a, 18m. Climb straight up the wall above on good holds and step left above the overlap into the groove. Climb this, then traverse right to the ledge.
3) 5a, 25m. Drop down 2m and traverse right to a ledge on the nose of the buttress. Climb rightwards and then head diagonally left past sloping ledges to a grassy terrace.
4) 4c, 40m. Move left on the ledge to climb a steep wall into a groove. This leads to long easy slabs which are followed to the Bilberry Ledge. © Rockfax

Ticklists

UK Lonely Leads, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist

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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
Frank the Husky 26 Jul, 2018 - A great route, bold throughout its journey up this wall; it should be on everyone's ticklist. The descriptions on here for the 1st, 3rd & 4th pitches (and in the RF guide itself) are wrong. To start, avoid the leftwards slanting groove as it's overgrown and hideous...start a few metres further right. On p3, do what it says initially - climb diagonally leftwards - but not to a grassy ledge (which could be several places) but to an obvious block belay on a ledge. Pitch 4 traverses RIGHTWARDS across a sloping ledge to reach the base of a very "out there" groove...which is a thrilling finale to an excellent route.
with Roger
A great route, bold throughout its journey up this wall; it should be on everyone's ticklist. The descriptions on here for the 1st, 3rd & 4th pitches (and in the RF guide itself) are wrong. To start, avoid the leftwards slanting groove as it's overgrown and hideous...start a few metres further right. On p3, do what it says initially - climb diagonally leftwards - but not to a grassy ledge (which could be several places) but to an obvious block belay on a ledge. Pitch 4 traverses RIGHTWARDS across a sloping ledge to reach the base of a very "out there" groove...which is a thrilling finale to an excellent route.
with Roger
roger whetton 26 Jul, 2018 AltLd Led pitches 2 and 4. I go along with the comments from Frank the Husky (not a surprise as I climbed the route with him!). Pitch 1 probably the hardest technically and pitch 4 (5a, not 4c) the most worrying - especially as I couldn't seem to find the "couple of wires" mentioned in the (Carneddau facebook) route of the month article back in 2015....
with Martin
Led pitches 2 and 4. I go along with the comments from Frank the Husky (not a surprise as I climbed the route with him!). Pitch 1 probably the hardest technically and pitch 4 (5a, not 4c) the most worrying - especially as I couldn't seem to find the "couple of wires" mentioned in the (Carneddau facebook) route of the month article back in 2015....
with Martin
Misha 9 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S A fitting name - wouldn't fancy pushing my grade on this as the gear is spaced / poor in places, though nothing ridiculously run out and the climbing isn't that hard (the crux is probably at the start of the diagonal crack low down, which is well protected albeit just above a ledge). I led the first two pitches in one to a good belay ledge. Ramon led through to the Bilberry Ledge but it was just a short shuffle sideways and up to indistinct easy ground - great photo opportunity on the arete though. Ramon finished up Excalibur in one pitch.
A fitting name - wouldn't fancy pushing my grade on this as the gear is spaced / poor in places, though nothing ridiculously run out and the climbing isn't that hard (the crux is probably at the start of the diagonal crack low down, which is well protected albeit just above a ledge). I led the first two pitches in one to a good belay ledge. Ramon led through to the Bilberry Ledge but it was just a short shuffle sideways and up to indistinct easy ground - great photo opportunity on the arete though. Ramon finished up Excalibur in one pitch.
Ramon Marin 9 Jun, 2018 Lead
with Misha
with Misha
peter.herd 4 Jun, 2018 AltLd
with Ali S
with Ali S
swmackey 15 Aug, 2016 AltLd
with sihills
with sihills
Michael Morrell 9 Jun, 2016 AltLd An exposed climb, seconding the pitches felt as committing as leading. Lead P2 and P4. Linked it up with 'The Grimmett' The amount of midges was ridiculous. Walk in from Ogwen took an hour and a bit.
An exposed climb, seconding the pitches felt as committing as leading. Lead P2 and P4. Linked it up with 'The Grimmett' The amount of midges was ridiculous. Walk in from Ogwen took an hour and a bit.
Hidden 9 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S
wi11 22 Apr, 2015 AltLd O/S Led P3&4 as one. Bold but easy climbing. Bit fluffy
with Tim Neill
Led P3&4 as one. Bold but easy climbing. Bit fluffy
with Tim Neill
msoldn 13 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S
with Sam (tree surgent)
with Sam (tree surgent)
Hidden 28 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S
Sardien 25 Aug, 2013 2nd O/S All 5a up to the slab, incl the groove at the start of the 4c pitch. Nothing hard but wild and very out there. Bit of lichen but awesome climbing
with Andy Scott
All 5a up to the slab, incl the groove at the start of the 4c pitch. Nothing hard but wild and very out there. Bit of lichen but awesome climbing
with Andy Scott
Nigel Jones 22 May, 2010 - No chalk, plenty of lichen and not so good guide description/ photo diagram made for an old fashioned entertaining climb, finding the easiest way through some steep rock. When was this last climbed ?
No chalk, plenty of lichen and not so good guide description/ photo diagram made for an old fashioned entertaining climb, finding the easiest way through some steep rock. When was this last climbed ?
rob1 18 Apr, 2009 AltLd O/S
with Dave Williams
with Dave Williams
Ian McNeill ??, 2006 -
Lev 30 Mar, 2004 AltLd O/S Absoulutly amazing. A little weird climbing on spens cut down mountain rack - half set of nuts and 3 cams, although you always seemed to be able to make do.
with Spen & Ian
Absoulutly amazing. A little weird climbing on spens cut down mountain rack - half set of nuts and 3 cams, although you always seemed to be able to make do.
with Spen & Ian
Hidden 8 May, 2000 AltLd
Hidden ??, 1997 Lead
Mark Kemball 27 May, 1978 Lead
with Sarah Bridge
with Sarah Bridge
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