UKC

Restricted Access

There have been serious problems here in the past but access appears less problematic providing climbers keep a low profile. The quarries are owned by Gwynedd Council who make it clear that there is no offical access due to public safety reasons - there are high fences and signs prohibiting access, but there have not been any reports of practical access problems for many years.

In early 2017 planning permisson was granted for a new hydro-electric power station on the site. When works starts on this (unkknow time-scale) its likley that access to some of the quarries will be permenently lost, especially to Mancer and Film Set Quarries as these will become flooded to produce a holding reservoir.  

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

- Due to nesting Peregrines and Choughs (both species have legal protection under the Wildlife & Countryside Act),  some climbing in the Gideon Quarry (all routes on Gideon Terrace and Cracking up areas) is restricted from March 1st until the end of June.

 

Rockfax Description
The pillar. Climb the right arete past some bolts to the overlap. A difficult tussle leads left to a ledge in the centre of the face. Move right and climb the arete boldly to a lower-off. © Rockfax

Feedback

There is no feedback for this climb.

Logged Ascents

There are no ascents logged for this climb.

Guidebooks for Gideon Quarries

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Route of Interest
Byzantium

Grade: E4 6a ***
(Craig Doris)

Loading Notifications...