180m, 6 pitches.
Fantastic corner system on East face
VI+ A1 or VII-. Grades are pretty severe if you're not used to the style and the pitches are long. Be prepared or it could be a bit too adventurous ! Double cam set to #4 and a 5.
Pitch 1 : 5c dihedral crack. Not that easy. Can be wet even 24 hours after raining.
Pitch 2 : 6a+ dihedral crack/dülfer steeper and steeper.
Pitch 3 : 6b Overhanging dülfer on wider crack
Pitch 4 : 6b Steep then overhanging wide dülfer crack. Then you can follow the dihedral to the last overhanging crack or try the slab on the right. Then, short vertical crack to the belay on the left of the black streak.
Pitch 5 : 6a+ climb the black streak. Thin moves.
Pitch 6 : 5c climbing the dihedral and the gutter to top out (few bolts)
Cry, laugh, look around and write something in the book. Abseil south face.
VI+ A1 or VII-. Grades are pretty severe if you're not used to the style and the pitches are long. Be prepared or it could be a bit too adventurous ! Double cam set to #4 and a 5.
Pitch 1 : 5c dihedral crack. Not that easy. Can be wet even 24 hours after raining.
Pitch 2 : 6a+ dihedral crack/dülfer steeper and steeper.
Pitch 3 : 6b Overhanging dülfer on wider crack
Pitch 4 : 6b Steep then overhanging wide dülfer crack. Then you can follow the dihedral to the last overhanging crack or try the slab on the right. Then, short vertical crack to the belay on the left of the black streak.
Pitch 5 : 6a+ climb the black streak. Thin moves.
Pitch 6 : 5c climbing the dihedral and the gutter to top out (few bolts)
Cry, laugh, look around and write something in the book. Abseil south face.
Sepp Eichinger, Hans Weninger, G?nter Kroh 06/Apr/1983.
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Route of Interest
Sophocles
Grade: 6b ***
(Meteora)