Approach: The first half of the approach is identical as for the west ridge, following the west branch of the Dzhirnagaktu glacier. Instead of gaining the col, the party should aim itself straight the summit of the mountain. Approximately 1-1h30.
Route: This rectilinear route is a rightward rising traverse that takes a fairly safe line between a large serac on the left and an even larger bergshrund on the right. Climb the gradually steepening snow slope of around 50ยบ until the east ridge is gained before the final rock step. This 25m step may be either circumvented by a mixed step of around III on the righ or climbed directly at HS. From here it is a further thirty horizontal meters or so to the summit. The first ascent party was beaten to the summit by a small bird. 400m. 4h on first ascent.
Descent: One 25m abseil down the final rock step followed by a long down-climb. Some parties may find it more sporting to walk down the route. 2 hours on descent.
Route: This rectilinear route is a rightward rising traverse that takes a fairly safe line between a large serac on the left and an even larger bergshrund on the right. Climb the gradually steepening snow slope of around 50ยบ until the east ridge is gained before the final rock step. This 25m step may be either circumvented by a mixed step of around III on the righ or climbed directly at HS. From here it is a further thirty horizontal meters or so to the summit. The first ascent party was beaten to the summit by a small bird. 400m. 4h on first ascent.
Descent: One 25m abseil down the final rock step followed by a long down-climb. Some parties may find it more sporting to walk down the route. 2 hours on descent.
Alek and Vladimir Zholobenk 26/Aug/2012.
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