UKC

Restricted Access

Access to Cademan Rocks for climbing has not been formalised at the current time and could be withdrawn in future if issues continue. At all times practice a minimal impact approach and leave the area in a better condition than you found it. It is important that visiting climbers respect the area, keep a low profile, behave well and cultivate a positive image to other users, local residents and landowners alike. 

  • Parking is very limited and poor parking damages verges and obstructs traffic – both of which give climbers a bad name with locals. Follow the detailed parking guidance in the ‘Parking and Approach’ section below and don’t be part of the problem.
  • If there is nowhere to park without contributing to these issues, please don’t squeeze in regardless – help to preserve long term access and go elsewhere or come back another day.  
  • Litter has noticeably increased in the woods in recent times which is a very obvious negative impact of increased visitor numbers. Do your bit to look after the woods and as well as taking your own litter home with you, pick up other litter you see. The BMC Hills 2 Oceans campaign is providing free litter pickers and bags to help climbers clear up their local crags – click here to get yours.
  • Do not climb over dry stone walls to access any boulders – it will damage the wall and annoy landowners. Take a longer approach if necessary to avoid this.
  • Overnight camping at the rocks or nearby in vehicles is very noticeable and likely to cause friction with local residents and landowners so please don’t do it.
Down and left of the top block at Hobs Hole, climb the left arete using the crack.

Ticklists

Cademan 4+ To 5+

Feedback

User Date Notes
NimbleNeil 17 Mar, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Quite hard to figure out where the route goes, whats in / out. I think i did something between Hobs Crack + Arete and Hobs crack. I don't know what foot ledge the guide refers to.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Quite hard to figure out where the route goes, whats in / out. I think i did something between Hobs Crack + Arete and Hobs crack. I don't know what foot ledge the guide refers to.

Logged Ascents

60 users have logged this
6 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High f6A
Mid f6A
Low f6A
High f5+
Mid f5+
Low f5+
High f5
Mid f5
Low f5
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 3
Style of Ascent
Bouldered
Not Set
Redpoint
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
DNF
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Moonshot

Grade: f5+ ***
(Beacon Hill)

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