6 pitches.

Rockfax Description
II, 300m, 2 hours. A logical extension to the Northwest Ridge, this fine little route gives much more climbing than any other route on the peak but the terrain is more technical and the rock occasionally loose. For competent teams, it makes for an excellent day and really should see more traffic.
Approach - Traverse directly to the ridge from the Col des Grands Montets. This looks mellow but can be icy and feels steep and exposed in these conditions. It is possible to descend slightly and then climb straight up to the route to avoid the traverse if conditions are bad.
1) From the edge of the glacier, traverse 10m of low-angled, loose ground to reach the ridge itself at a small col, beneath a slabby tower.
2) Go around the tower on the right and then re-climb back to the ridge crest at another col which has a steep, tooth-like tower above it.
3) Turn the tower on the right and then step back left and follow a chossy ramp-line back onto the ridge crest.
4) Climb over two steeper steps, the first of which is 10m, the second is 25m, to a small col beneath a wide chimney.
5) 4a. The chimney defies grading to some extent but it isn't hard, just a bit traditional! Climb it and step right (4a) before coming back left. Nip over the boulder above the chimney and belay on good spikes beneath a steep, golden tower.
6) Turn the tower on the left to reach the col where the Northwest Ridge route begins.
Descent - Descend by the Northwest Ridge. The crux wall can be abseiled if needs be. From the foot of the crux wall it is possible to avoid the exposed snow traverse under the rock buttress by continuing along the ridge crest and then making 2 x 15m abseils to reach the curved snow ridge © Rockfax

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
zebster 8 Sep, 2018 AltLd
adamwesthead 8 Sep, 2018 AltLd O/S The glacier was very icy so traversed below the steep section. Started lower on the ridge than the guide. Loose so was careful not to pull too hard on anything. Good extension to the Northwest Ridge.
with zebster
The glacier was very icy so traversed below the steep section. Started lower on the ridge than the guide. Loose so was careful not to pull too hard on anything. Good extension to the Northwest Ridge.
with zebster
Hidden 28 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
JRJones 28 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
DundeeDave 16 Aug, 2018 2nd
JackBooth 9 Aug, 2018 -
James.houghton 8 Aug, 2018 Lead
CharlieMack 25 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
with Sarah adkin
with Sarah adkin
Fallow 23 Jul, 2018 AltLd
with Trace
with Trace
Trace 23 Jul, 2018 Lead
nathanjmasters 18 Jul, 2018 AltLd
with rosso
with rosso
rosso 18 Jul, 2018 AltLd
pnordberg 17 Jul, 2018 AltLd
with Alasdair Ross, ACT
with Alasdair Ross, ACT
ACT 17 Jul, 2018 AltLd
with Alasdair R, Peter N
with Alasdair R, Peter N
Ellfen 16 Jul, 2018 2nd
with Joe
with Joe
bobpilgrem 14 Jul, 2018 AltLd
with Tom
with Tom
tompilgrem 14 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11 Jul, 2018 2nd
jessieleong 10 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S After locating the start of this route - we aimed a little high- lots of chossy gneiss to carefully step up. Once on the ridge traverse along the top. Not that busy when we climbed with some striking features. We climbed in crampons and gloves although could have done it without.
with Emma Bryning, Coops290
After locating the start of this route - we aimed a little high- lots of chossy gneiss to carefully step up. Once on the ridge traverse along the top. Not that busy when we climbed with some striking features. We climbed in crampons and gloves although could have done it without.
with Emma Bryning, Coops290
Coops290 10 Jul, 2018 AltLd
MaccMark 9 Jul, 2018 AltLd
with Steve Graham
with Steve Graham
Sam Maher 9 Jul, 2018 Lead
with Rob Davis
with Rob Davis
jalqazzaz 7 Jul, 2018 Solo O/S
gotama178 7 Jul, 2018 Solo O/S
Will Sherwood 4 Jul, 2018 2nd O/S Lovely route, did the worm in the chimney (am busty) bit of a precarious icy approach. It was funny after but I did drop my partners ice axe temporarily...
with Ross Spurs
Lovely route, did the worm in the chimney (am busty) bit of a precarious icy approach. It was funny after but I did drop my partners ice axe temporarily...
with Ross Spurs
WTorrensa 4 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S A little loose but other than that, a great route!
A little loose but other than that, a great route!
tradisrad 4 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden 4 Jul, 2018 AltLd
alasdaircavaye 2 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S Great route with lots of options. Loose rock at the beginning was a bit scary.
with Kieran Cobell
Great route with lots of options. Loose rock at the beginning was a bit scary.
with Kieran Cobell
Ethan.Jenkins.09 1 Jul, 2018 AltLd
PeteDP 27 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S
SamDicks 27 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S
Cbulman 27 Jun, 2018 Lead
James Rigby 26 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Conor
with Conor
Al_Mac 25 Jun, 2018 AltLd
Gemmazrobo 25 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Al_Mac
with Al_Mac
Gemmazrobo 25 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Al_Mac
with Al_Mac
Al_Mac 25 Jun, 2018 -
george.rich 24 Jun, 2018 AltLd
rpinto 24 Jun, 2018 Lead
PatrickBoothroyd 23 Jun, 2018 -
AliceOstrich 23 Jun, 2018 2nd
with LukeWS, George
with LukeWS, George
Amy Henchoz 23 Jun, 2018 AltLd
Stuart Russell 23 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S A little loose in places, especially at the start, but a fantastic route after this
A little loose in places, especially at the start, but a fantastic route after this
The9inger 23 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Amy
with Amy
LukeWS 23 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S Cool route - perfect conditions for mixed climbing!
Cool route - perfect conditions for mixed climbing!
mattdennies 18 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S A great addition to doing the normal route, a much more fun way up than slogging up the snow slope. Some nice mixed sections lower down and some spicyier moves higher up, the chimney section was 'traditional', a bit of a thrutch fest.
A great addition to doing the normal route, a much more fun way up than slogging up the snow slope. Some nice mixed sections lower down and some spicyier moves higher up, the chimney section was 'traditional', a bit of a thrutch fest.
Pete Lindley 18 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S
with BarneyLoosemore, Toby
with BarneyLoosemore, Toby
BarneyLoosemore 18 Jun, 2018 -
James.houghton 18 Jun, 2018 AltLd
bethr_1997 18 Jun, 2018 Lead
Hidden 18 Jun, 2018 2nd
Tim Ford 16 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S really nice route, a bit of loose rok but good fun climbing.
with Isaac Wheatley
really nice route, a bit of loose rok but good fun climbing.
with Isaac Wheatley
Harry Padley 16 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
harrig-01 ?Jun, 2018 -
with Angus
with Angus
Hidden 14 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14 Aug, 2017 -
steve_gibbs 12 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
ali.scott ?Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
JasonOneEye 26 Jul, 2017 AltLd Nice day out away from the busy NW ridge
with Eogan O'Connell
Nice day out away from the busy NW ridge
with Eogan O'Connell
rachelB 20 Jul, 2017 2nd
Matt Boyd 20 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S Nice we route, deserves the two stars, good for a rest day climb.
with Vicky Ward, Neil Dickson
Nice we route, deserves the two stars, good for a rest day climb.
with Vicky Ward, Neil Dickson
George.Palmer 20 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
Hidden 19 Jul, 2017 2nd O/S
Hidden 19 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
betathief 8 Jul, 2017 Lead
Rob_Morris1996 8 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S Bit chossy, alright scrambling. Clearly got the approach wrong as ended sketching up some super loose gully thing on the side. Descent to the glacier where the Northwest Ridge was horrendous. Abseil ropes didn't reach over the bergschrund, and the boulder-anchor didn't inspire confidence when Shep pulled out a microwave sized block from under it while repairing the dodgy dat! The team approaching for the Petite Aiguile Verte quickly turned around! Ended up belaying Shep down and over, then climbing down myself with Shep body belaying the other side of the bergschrund. Didn't have to run for the last lift this time though!!
Bit chossy, alright scrambling. Clearly got the approach wrong as ended sketching up some super loose gully thing on the side. Descent to the glacier where the Northwest Ridge was horrendous. Abseil ropes didn't reach over the bergschrund, and the boulder-anchor didn't inspire confidence when Shep pulled out a microwave sized block from under it while repairing the dodgy dat! The team approaching for the Petite Aiguile Verte quickly turned around! Ended up belaying Shep down and over, then climbing down myself with Shep body belaying the other side of the bergschrund. Didn't have to run for the last lift this time though!!
themattyshep 8 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
Jessicacrump 8 Jul, 2017 2nd
Mattmans11 6 Jul, 2017 Lead β
with EC Magnus lekter
with EC Magnus lekter
Shaun Sharkey 6 Jul, 2017 -
Mattmans11 6 Jul, 2017 Lead β
with EC Magnus lekter
with EC Magnus lekter
Mattmans11 6 Jul, 2017 Lead β
with EC Magnus lekter
with EC Magnus lekter
Mattmans11 6 Jul, 2017 Lead β
with EC Magnus lekter
with EC Magnus lekter
Mattmans11 6 Jul, 2017 Lead β
with EC Magnus lekter
with EC Magnus lekter
Mattmans11 6 Jul, 2017 Lead β
with EC Magnus lekter
with EC Magnus lekter
Mattmans11 6 Jul, 2017 Lead β
with EC Magnus lekter
with EC Magnus lekter
Mattmans11 6 Jul, 2017 Lead β
with EC Magnus lekter
with EC Magnus lekter
Mattmans11 6 Jul, 2017 Lead β
with EC Magnus lekter
with EC Magnus lekter
Mattmans11 6 Jul, 2017 Lead β
with EC Magnus lekter
with EC Magnus lekter
Mattmans11 6 Jul, 2017 Lead β
with EC Magnus lekter
with EC Magnus lekter
Mattmans11 6 Jul, 2017 Lead β
with EC Magnus lekter
with EC Magnus lekter
Mattmans11 6 Jul, 2017 Lead β
with EC Magnus lekter
with EC Magnus lekter
Mattmans11 6 Jul, 2017 Lead β
with EC Magnus lekter
with EC Magnus lekter
Mattmans11 6 Jul, 2017 Lead β
with EC Magnus lekter
with EC Magnus lekter
Mattmans11 6 Jul, 2017 Lead β
with EC Magnus lekter
with EC Magnus lekter
Mattmans11 6 Jul, 2017 Lead β
with EC Magnus lekter
with EC Magnus lekter
Mattmans11 6 Jul, 2017 Lead β
with EC Magnus lekter
with EC Magnus lekter
Mattmans11 6 Jul, 2017 Lead β
with EC Magnus lekter
with EC Magnus lekter
Mattmans11 6 Jul, 2017 Lead β
with EC Magnus lekter
with EC Magnus lekter
Mattmans11 6 Jul, 2017 Lead β
with EC Magnus lekter
with EC Magnus lekter
Mattmans11 6 Jul, 2017 Lead β
with EC Magnus lekter
with EC Magnus lekter
Mattmans11 6 Jul, 2017 Lead β
with EC Magnus lekter
with EC Magnus lekter
Mattmans11 6 Jul, 2017 Lead β
with EC Magnus lekter
with EC Magnus lekter
Mattmans11 6 Jul, 2017 Lead β
with EC Magnus lekter
with EC Magnus lekter
Mattmans11 6 Jul, 2017 Lead β
with EC Magnus lekter
with EC Magnus lekter
Tommy Harris 5 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S Lovely route, made trickier with conditions not being great.
Lovely route, made trickier with conditions not being great.
Gerben Neven 2 Jul, 2017 AltLd Lead up snow slope as we descended a little too far (very poor viz) and first half of the route, following wildblood
Lead up snow slope as we descended a little too far (very poor viz) and first half of the route, following wildblood
Nick Arthur 2 Jul, 2017 AltLd
Tom.Sedgwick 2 Jul, 2017 -
with Nick Arthur, Gerben Neven
with Nick Arthur, Gerben Neven
James Gordon ?Jul, 2017 -
Ashley King 26 Jun, 2017 AltLd Great route. Very dry so didn't do anything in crampons after the glacier. Chimney was quite loose but besides that was fine.
Great route. Very dry so didn't do anything in crampons after the glacier. Chimney was quite loose but besides that was fine.
JonoDHawkins 26 Jun, 2017 AltLd
adawson 25 Jun, 2017 AltLd
duncanedgley 25 Jun, 2017 AltLd
with adawson
with adawson
PatrickRT 24 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S Fun route 1st route ever without a guide
with Kyle course, Ben course
Fun route 1st route ever without a guide
with Kyle course, Ben course
K_Maywood 24 Jun, 2017 -
bljp 24 Jun, 2017 -
paul_the_northerner ?Jun, 2017 AltLd
c357 11 Aug, 2016 Lead Lovely route and well worth doing. Easier option is to traverse down to boulders and climb straight up to route. If traversing then can protect with ice screws as a slip would send you to the boulders. Chimney really tight with daysack!
Lovely route and well worth doing. Easier option is to traverse down to boulders and climb straight up to route. If traversing then can protect with ice screws as a slip would send you to the boulders. Chimney really tight with daysack!
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