The rock at Shorncliffe is generally sound, but there are some areas of more questionable rock which need to be treated with caution - in particular at the top of the crag where the last few metres can be more broken. Placing an extra piece of gear or two in solid rock before topping out is worth considering.
Descent for all routes is by abseil from trees at the top of the routes. These have been fitted with rope slings and abseil rings to prevent damage to the trees so please use them, but don't forget to check the anchors (both the strength of the tree and the quality of the rope and ring) before commiting to using them. It is also worth having some spare cord to replace any rope which is showing wear. A single 60m rope doubled over should allow you to reach the ground on all routes but double check first.
Dates: 15 April to 31 May
Reason: Nesting Birds
Rockfax Description
A combo of The Laughing Cavaliers and Bitter Battle Tears makes an excellent route. Climb Laughing Cavaliers until a ledge where the angle relents, then trend left to meet Bitter Battle Tears at the small pillar. Finish as for Bitter Battle Tears. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A combination of the lower half of Laughing Cavaliers and the upper section of Bitter Battle Tears is also an excellent route. Often climbed after getting lost on Laughing Cavaliers as the guide book is less than clear on the line.
Climb Laughing Cavaliers until the ledge where the angle relents, trend left to the Bitter Battle Tears pedestal, traverse left around it and mount the pedestal. Climb almost directly to the top out tree with in situ belay tat.
unknown.
Shorn Cliff HVS and E1 *'d Routes
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Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Shorn Cliff)