UKC

Restricted Access

Cheedale is a SSSI and SAC with a high level of legal protection under European law. Access for climbing is concessionary and can only be maintained if climber's continue to adhere to a number of conditions agreed with Derbyshire Wildlife Trust (who own the Southern bank of the river). These include:

  • No access along the top of the dale beyond a corner formed by the wall and obvious new fence bounding the 3rd major gully east of Plum Buttress. Therefore, no access to Runyans Corner and Moving, Long, or Two-Tier Buttresses from above.
  • No further bolted development on the small, vegetated, and obscure crags, which rim the dale.
  • Do not leave in situ krabs or tape on bolt hangers.
  • Parts of Nettle Buttress, Chee Tor East, and Dogs Dinner area are bolt free areas of outstanding appearance. 
  • Do not remove large swathes of ivy.

Blackwell Halt
This compact wall has a good set of mid-grade routes. The setting is pleasant and there is plenty of picnic potential at the base. The wall faces south although the lower section is in the shade of the trees. There is little seepage and it is well sheltered from the wind.

Approach - From the Monsal Trail on the Chee Dale Upper Approach, head down towards the cafe/cycle hire. Cross the bridge and turn sharply left at the cottages to follow a small path along the edge of the river past a pump house. This leads to a tunnel under the train tracks. On leaving the tunnel, cross the fence on the left and go up some hidden stone steps. From here a path leads up into the grassy field below the quarry.

Access - The new landowner of Blackwell Halt is working towards being able to give permission for climbers to access the site but is not currently able to do so. If you do decide to visit, be aware you may be asked to leave - please be polite and courteous at all times.

105m, 5 pitches. A long combination of pitches which takes in the best bits of Aplomb and Sirplum after a poor start on the wall and grassy ledges left of the big bulging arete. A more sensible way of doing this route is to just start up the Stalk and finish up Aplomb/Sirplum combination which is actually just Aplomb with its variation finish.
1) 4c, 20m. Climb the wall left of the arete to a ledge, then continue up the wall above trending right to a grassy ledge in a bay.
2) 5a, 20m. Traverse the break rightwards around the corner into The Stalk and follow this to the top of the corner and belay.
3) 4c, 15m. Traverse right above the roof to belay in the corner. Aplomb pitch 2.
4) 5a, 30m. Step down and hand-traverse the break in a wild position to belay on a pedestal. Aplomb pitch 3.
5) 5a, 20m. Move left of great holds to a groove then climb to the top. Sirplum half of pitch 2.

Ticklists

CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain , UK Lonely Leads , Definitive *** Peak Lime , Traverses of trady radness , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs , Peak Traverses

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Guidebooks for Chee Dale Upper

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 2
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 2
Votes cast 2
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Intestate

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Kinder Northern Edges)

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