55m, 2 pitches. The obvious gully to the left of Western Gully on the North Face and the right of Reade's Route. It brings you out at the pinnacles of the Crib Goch traverse. It is bounded on its left by Reade's Route and the crazy pinnacle of that route lends the gully its name. Described in the Llanberis CC Guide as a 'Moderate' and 'one of the earliest routes in the pass' - it is assuredly not a moderate, and rather considerably harder (so hats off to those gnarly pioneers). The gully splits after the first very difficult pitch (lots of wet grass and lose material with a very precarious top-out onto to steep vegetation). The left hand branch has a cave which, if climbed up to and traversed out left from, will provide the easiest and safest means of ascent but will however be neither 'easy' nor 'safe'. A direct route left of the cave is, at least, protectable and would be a good 'severe' hand jamming crack if it wasn't filled with green slime. The middle rib suggested as an option in the CC guide is again somewhere around severe, if not a VS. It too is covered in green slime with little protection and there is little doubt that Reade's Route, which could be moved onto instead, would be a much easier way up. The right hand branch of the gully provides a desperate tussle with sparse and fairly marginal gear: this too is likely to be almost always covered in green slippery slime. Atmospheric, but not a good route in summer. In absolutely bone-dry conditions the route might go at VDif. In good winter nick I would expect it to be a good outing, however.

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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
LJJ77 29 Jul, 2016 2nd We went up searching for a route to put into the update of Scramble book so we did the route in mountain boots and it turned into a nightmare it had been raining all day until we got to the gully so there was green slime everywhere holds (where there were holds) breaking off luckily only a chunk of skin off my shin was the only casualty definitely not going in the book was Carls opinion and the severe next to us looked an easier option
with carl
We went up searching for a route to put into the update of Scramble book so we did the route in mountain boots and it turned into a nightmare it had been raining all day until we got to the gully so there was green slime everywhere holds (where there were holds) breaking off luckily only a chunk of skin off my shin was the only casualty definitely not going in the book was Carls opinion and the severe next to us looked an easier option
with carl
jimorothy 29 Jul, 2016 Lead After checking all alternatives, by the right hand branch in the rain fighting up the green slime. I've climbed much easier VS's.
with Luke
After checking all alternatives, by the right hand branch in the rain fighting up the green slime. I've climbed much easier VS's.
with Luke
nigehughes ?Sep, 1982 Solo
with Colin Griffin
with Colin Griffin
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