UKC

25m. Approach - climb central rib or central gully. Arrive 25 m below the summit plateau at the steep cliffs atop CR's left side. Where CG's side wards/rightward exit path meets CR before its finish snowslope. A good belay of wires/large/medium friends and own small pegs. Belay between an obvious rightward wide cracked corner (...... young ? III) above the overhanging ground below. This is ten metres left of the CR's grade II finish up steep open snow slopes to the summit.
The climb - on the left is a block pillar with vertical,flat twin cracked wall above (small wires/s/m-friends) leading to steep turf and a second shorter wall (possible warthog's/friends/wires, some poor) , a good ledge above (big wire/hex in low crack) and overhanging turf caps a final steepening.
The route- Climb awkwardly onto the block and place good small wires/friends in cracks left/right before tackling the sheer wall direct. Torque, hook and with long reaches gain the steep turf wall above. Establish yourself (warthogs?) and climb a second fractured wall above to a reassuring ledge. Fly or grovel over the overhanging top to finish.

Paul Tucker unseconded 06/Dec/2014.

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