Fly Wall and Woodcroft Quarry: the current owners have not given permission to climb on this section of crag. If you do climb on this part of the crag, please be careful not to damage any fences in the area.
GO Wall: topping out now allowed year round for all routes from Feline/Jackal leftwards. King Kong ab. bolts removed. No topping out any time for right hand end – ab. stations in place where required. A large rockfall has recently (Jan 2013) been reported at the righthand side of the Pedestal on Go Wall - care should be taken with any remaining loose rock that may still be in place in this area.
North Wall: following a change of ownership of the house above this section of crag, the previous arrangement to exit through it’s garden is not longer possible. Please do not top out on any North Wall routes - only abseil descent from below the top of the crag is allowed. For those who don't wan't to climb above the Great Ledge, an abseil descent can be made from one of the two bolted abseil stations above The Tap or Joe’s Route. Two further abseil stations have been established just below the top of North Wall (using rope slings and rings around trees) allowing the last pitch of the more popular routes to be climbed and an abseil descent to the Great Ledge be made.
All rock north of the North Buttress and south of Fly Wall is privately owned and all climbing is prohibited.
Dates: 1 March to 15 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ravens nesting on Wurlitzer. The restriction applies to all routes on Fly Wall between Flypast and Gendarmerie.
Peregrins nesting on North Wall. Avoid top pithes of left hand route (from the great ledge)
Rockfax Description
Good technical climbing with some fixed gear that can be backed-up. Start 3m right of the corner at a right-leading crack.
1) 5b, 14m. Follow the right-leading crack to a ledge and continue up the multi-pocketed crack above it to the midway ledge. Belay below a corner capped by a large overhang.
2) 6a, 15m. Gain and climb the corner to the overhang. Traverse left to clear the overhang and finish up the wall past a thread. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
P1 5b Start 3m right of the corner of Bulging Flies. Climb to a break then step up and right onto a vegetated ledge. Climb the pocketed crack to the terrace (opposing nut belay).
P2 6a Climb up to the open groove and climb it to a good hold above the peg. Step left and climb the wall above by a hard pull past a in-situ thread (6a).
R A Harrison, G Forward (P1- A Strapcans, C King 1978, P2 was originally climbed at A2 by G Farnsworth, Miss G Pemberton & C McDonald on 2/9/1967) 1979.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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jsmcfarland | 10 Aug, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Nut belays at start of P2 are becoming seriously worn and not really in great condition. Piton mentioned in book also absent. Pitons on route are looking quite rusty but probably would hold soft catches (backup placements available) | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Nut belays at start of P2 are becoming seriously worn and not really in great condition. Piton mentioned in book also absent. Pitons on route are looking quite rusty but probably would hold soft catches (backup placements available) |
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plant_based_tommo | 9 Jul, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: In situ gear condition and some vague gear beta: the three pegs on p2 don\'t inspire much confidence but can be backed up with small offset wires and a good selection of cams. A size red camalot or dragon (or two) will make the top crux safe incase the fixed gear were to fail. the in situ thread looked acceptable July 2019. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: In situ gear condition and some vague gear beta: the three pegs on p2 don't inspire much confidence but can be backed up with small offset wires and a good selection of cams. A size red camalot or dragon (or two) will make the top crux safe incase the fixed gear were to fail. the in situ thread looked acceptable July 2019. |
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Grade: E3 6a ***
(Coaley Wood Crag)