42m, 2 pitches. P1 5b Start 3m right of the corner of Bulging Flies. Climb to a break then step up and right onto a vegetated ledge. Climb the pocketed crack to the terrace (opposing nut belay).
P2 6a Climb up to the open groove and climb it to a good hold above the peg. Step left and climb the wall above by a hard pull past a in-situ thread (6a).

R A Harrison, G Forward (P1- A Strapcans, C King 1978, P2 was originally climbed at A2 by G Farnsworth, Miss G Pemberton & C McDonald on 2/9/1967) 1979

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UserDateNotes
jsmcfarland 10 Aug Show βeta
βeta: Nut belays at start of P2 are becoming seriously worn and not really in great condition. Piton mentioned in book also absent. Pitons on route are looking quite rusty but probably would hold soft catches (backup placements available)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Nut belays at start of P2 are becoming seriously worn and not really in great condition. Piton mentioned in book also absent. Pitons on route are looking quite rusty but probably would hold soft catches (backup placements available)
plant_based_tommo 9 Jul Show βeta
βeta: In situ gear condition and some vague gear beta: the three pegs on p2 don't inspire much confidence but can be backed up with small offset wires and a good selection of cams. A size red camalot or dragon (or two) will make the top crux safe incase the fixed gear were to fail. the in situ thread looked acceptable July 2019.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: In situ gear condition and some vague gear beta: the three pegs on p2 don't inspire much confidence but can be backed up with small offset wires and a good selection of cams. A size red camalot or dragon (or two) will make the top crux safe incase the fixed gear were to fail. the in situ thread looked acceptable July 2019.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 8 Aug Lead O/S
jsmcfarland 8 Aug AltLd O/S Led P1, Tim led P2 (great lead). Hard and thin but enough protection to justify continuing onwards. Top groove not as awful as it first looks. Will come back to lead top pitch soon!
Led P1, Tim led P2 (great lead). Hard and thin but enough protection to justify continuing onwards. Top groove not as awful as it first looks. Will come back to lead top pitch soon!
plant_based_tommo 8 Jul Lead O/S did it in one big pitch. Fantastic route! a couple of tricky moves on the second pitch. my first E3 6a onsight.
with Robyn Nelson
did it in one big pitch. Fantastic route! a couple of tricky moves on the second pitch. my first E3 6a onsight.
with Robyn Nelson
GeorgT 28 Jun 2nd dog Amazing lead from Rob as per.
Amazing lead from Rob as per.
Stanners 28 Jun Lead O/S 1 big pitch on the back of a nightshift in the heat and it went swimmingly. Brilliant route, I love fly wall.
with GT special (aka Georgia T)
1 big pitch on the back of a nightshift in the heat and it went swimmingly. Brilliant route, I love fly wall.
with GT special (aka Georgia T)
aiyer 20 May AltLd dnf I lead P1 - tad overgrown and dusty but nice. Kevin didnt fancy P2
I lead P1 - tad overgrown and dusty but nice. Kevin didnt fancy P2
kenneM 14 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Chris
with Chris
Hidden 13 May, 2018 AltLd dog
Misha 13 May, 2018 AltLd O/S Tim did P1 - fun moves up to pocketed crack. The belay takes a while to arrange. I ventured up P2, a bit unsure if I’d get it clean as the sun was bearing down and my shoes were soft and... Tricky getting past and above the peg by managed it fine - more technical than physical (easy 6a). The sequence past the thread looked nails but actually has two good finger pockets, so it was fine with clever feet (hard 5c). Pleased to get this.
Tim did P1 - fun moves up to pocketed crack. The belay takes a while to arrange. I ventured up P2, a bit unsure if I’d get it clean as the sun was bearing down and my shoes were soft and... Tricky getting past and above the peg by managed it fine - more technical than physical (easy 6a). The sequence past the thread looked nails but actually has two good finger pockets, so it was fine with clever feet (hard 5c). Pleased to get this.
kenneM 10 Apr, 2017 Lead dog
with Chris
with Chris
LJKing 2 Apr, 2017 AltLd dog I led the first pitch, which is good in its own right. I got up the second but had to employ one or two points of aid!
with Paul Clarkson
I led the first pitch, which is good in its own right. I got up the second but had to employ one or two points of aid!
with Paul Clarkson
Pippa 25 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S Hard and excellent, second pitch only
with Rob
Hard and excellent, second pitch only
with Rob
Tom Brierley 2 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S Pretty good, nice rock, P1 still clean. good gear too.
with karenhh
Pretty good, nice rock, P1 still clean. good gear too.
with karenhh
Ollie B 16 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S Really good climbing. Probably more like 5c. P1 has been cleaned, mud and remaining ivy should go after a good breeze and a rain shower.
with B.Brewer
Really good climbing. Probably more like 5c. P1 has been cleaned, mud and remaining ivy should go after a good breeze and a rain shower.
with B.Brewer
Ed Babs 27 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S P1 - pretty vegetated
with AlexD
P1 - pretty vegetated
with AlexD
AlexD 27 Jun, 2015 AltLd dog Desperate bridging up corner, decided to fall off later at thread near the top instead though, missed a foothold, should have been easy - bummer!
with Ed Babs
Desperate bridging up corner, decided to fall off later at thread near the top instead though, missed a foothold, should have been easy - bummer!
with Ed Babs
ian bryant ??, 2015 Lead
Matt Cooke 16 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
AJM 22 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S Led p2. Good techy moves. Hot in the full sun!
with Paddy Snow
Led p2. Good techy moves. Hot in the full sun!
with Paddy Snow
ianto ??, 2013 -
KRB 16 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S A pretty decent climb. A bit fingery but well protected. Took the path too far down the slope to start so did an alternative 1st pitch and ended up commando crawling along the break through some pigeon carcasses to get back to the belay to do the 2nd pitch. Sterling effort from Chris - testing my ropes to the full!
with Chris & Martin
A pretty decent climb. A bit fingery but well protected. Took the path too far down the slope to start so did an alternative 1st pitch and ended up commando crawling along the break through some pigeon carcasses to get back to the belay to do the 2nd pitch. Sterling effort from Chris - testing my ropes to the full!
with Chris & Martin
Aaron Lines 11 Aug, 2012 2nd
frank ramsay 11 Aug, 2012 Lead Very good route. Middle of the grade E3
with Aaron
Very good route. Middle of the grade E3
with Aaron
Hidden 26 May, 2012 Lead dog
Hidden 26 May, 2012 2nd dog
pezzerrr 2 Oct, 2011 Lead O/S
Cailean Harker 28 Aug, 2011 - climbed in one pitch
climbed in one pitch
simon kimber 1 Jun, 2009 Lead rpt worst hayfever ever, nearly sneezed myself off!
with Hanski
worst hayfever ever, nearly sneezed myself off!
with Hanski
Hanski 1 Jun, 2009 2nd
Hanski 25 May, 2009 2nd
Billg 23 Aug, 2008 Lead O/S
with Megan Beaumont
with Megan Beaumont
climbergg 30 Jul, 2008 2nd
with Tim M
with Tim M
Tim M 30 Jul, 2008 Lead O/S
Hidden 14 Jul, 2008 Lead O/S
Stefan Kruger 26 Jul, 2005 AltLd dog A great route with sustained interest on the top pitch. Had to briefly yank on an in-situ thread near the top (post crux, annoyingly) due to misreading the sequence and not having enough left in the tank to reverse it. Probably softer than Firefly.
with Paul Wood
A great route with sustained interest on the top pitch. Had to briefly yank on an in-situ thread near the top (post crux, annoyingly) due to misreading the sequence and not having enough left in the tank to reverse it. Probably softer than Firefly.
with Paul Wood
Hidden 29 Jan, 2005 Lead O/S
simon kimber ?Aug, 2003 Lead
simon kimber ??, 2002 2nd
with Tony Penning
with Tony Penning
Hidden ??, 2000 AltLd
Hidden 3 May, 1999 Lead O/S
AlexRenshaw 5 Oct, 1996 2nd
with Ted Lister
with Ted Lister
migs493 22 Apr, 1991 Lead O/S
pete johnson 25 Mar, 1991 Lead
with Bart
with Bart
JimR ??, 1990 -
Steve Lewis 14 Mar, 1982 Lead O/S
with Mike Price
with Mike Price
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