UKC

Restricted Access

July 2018 - Major rockfall affects Lost World/Mordor areas. In recent years there have been significant and massive rockfalls (hundreds if not thousands of tons of rock)  in this area, and in early July another significant rockfall occured here, that would have wiped out anyone in this area at the time. There is further significant and unpredictable rockfall likley here and it would be prudent to avoid this area. 

The Upper Dinorwig quarries are mainly owned by First Hydro. Access for climbing or any access away from the designated footpaths is not permitted by the landowners, due to liability concerns. However it's rare for climbers to be asked to leave and in general it appears that if climbers keep a low profile, avoid damaging fences, do not interfere with any of the power station buildings or apparatus or any of the historic structures within the quarry that climbing is possible. Access to the whole of the upper quarries have become especially sensitive in recent years and climbers should not gather in large numbers, especially at Dali's Hole area. Bolts have been removed from Dali's Hole by a local climber (late 2010) who was concerned that continued use of this venue by large groups of climbers would jeopardise access to the whole site. There have also been a number of reported altercations between climbers and First Hydro security staff over the years at this venue.

BMC advice remains unchanged - the landowners do not give permission for public access (including for climbing) away from the public paths. Please do not damage fences or signs and if accosted by security staff, please be courteous and report any issues to the BMC.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

A fence has been errected across the base of the Dali's Hole area to deter access to this area due to liability concerns by First Hydro. Access to this area is especially sensitive at this time and security staff have been reported to be asking climbers to leave this area.

20m.

Rockfax Description
A good climb taking the right-hand line on the slab. Climb a flaky left-facing groove to gain the mid-height flakes. Climb these and the slabby wall above, stepping right in the middle, then straight up to finish. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A good climb taking the right hand line on the slab in The Cutting. Excellent start and finish linked by easier flakes. Start about 3 m R of Battle Scars. Gain the mid height flakes via a flaky L facing groove with use of holds on the slab to the R. Follow the flakes up and R, to stand on the highest one on the L. Climb the slabby wall above starting on the L, stepping R in the middle then straight up to finish.

H. Walmsley, R. Davies 09/Aug/2016.

Ticklists

All the Llanberis SLATE sport @ 6b & 6b+

Feedback

User Date Notes
Thin Boyz 14 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Fist sized chunk of edge came off under my foot at mid height - although it is situated in the easier part of the climb, so not essential. Extra long sling needed for the 4th bolt, if it is even part of the route?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Fist sized chunk of edge came off under my foot at mid height - although it is situated in the easier part of the climb, so not essential. Extra long sling needed for the 4th bolt, if it is even part of the route?

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for The Lost World/Heaven Walls

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Voting
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
Votes cast 5
Votes cast 5
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Rock Bottom Line P1

Grade: 6b ***
(Twll Mawr)

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