Rockfax Description
Features some great open face climbing on P2. Start 3m right of Scavenger at the foot of the left-hand of three cracks.
1) 5c, 30m. Steeply climb the flared crack then head off rightwards, avoiding the big crack. Climb the steep wall to its right to gain a small sloping ledge with a couple of rotting pegs.
2) 5c, 40m. Climb the wall left of the belay and move up and left through a steep section (peg) then move right to big foot-holds. Head back left to the base of the wall with a thin crack (spikes). The wall is steep, but small sharp holds allow progress to a point where a span out left gains the sloping left arete. Climbing direct up the wall is much harder (6a ), especially for those of normal stature and below. A sloping ledge is reached and the cracks above lead directly to two large spikes below the final crack of P3.
3) 5a, 40m. Race up the fine left-hand crack to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Great Wall Climbs of the UK, North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales E3's, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, Ultimate E3 ticklist, 20 For 2017.


ClimberDateStyle
Misha 17/Sep AltLd O/S

A good route and the crux second pitch is good value at E3. Dave did P1, which had a couple of hard moves up the starting crack. I did P2, which featured steep, airy moves above a couple of RPs, then a bit of a breather before a vertical wall on good crimps (gear pumpy to place), a dynamic move to a jug in the rightward slanting crack (what's all this stuff in the Rockfax about spanning out left to the arete?) and a tricky shuffle onto a ledge. The ground above is green and hairy but ok to climb. Dave did P3, which of done a couple of times before. A fun day out and we even had the sun after P1.

davkeo 17/Sep AltLd O/S

P1&3. P1&2 are brilliant. Hard to beat Gogarth on a day like today. The belay ledge after p1 is such a cool place to be. I was lying down at one point with the sun on my face.

with Misha
pete johnson 19/Aug AltLd rpt
with Paul Tanton
PaulTanton 19/Aug AltLd O/S
Mike_Hayes 02/Jul AltLd
with John Nightingale
Tubs 24/Jun 2nd dog

P2 and P3 only. Pumped out traversing the crimps on the headwall.

with Dave M
Hidden 18/Jun AltLd O/S
Hidden 26/Mar AltLd
JoeWilliams 25/Mar AltLd O/S

P3

with T Ripley, Ollie B
Ollie B 25/Mar AltLd O/S

P2. Ace climbing and positions.

with T.Ripley, J.Williams
Hidden 24/Oct/16 AltLd
Hidden 13/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 04/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
pie_eater_pete 17/Jul/16 -
JendeHoxar 12/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
with Ed
Hidden 12/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
shed_hed 03/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

Led P2. Bold leaving the belay but nice hard but straightforward moves on good small holds, gear gets better as you go up. Thought P1 was harder but then again it was a crack! P3 was 5m of climbing, 45m of scrambling up grass...

with Streaky
wi11 21/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
with Emma T
dan gibson 08/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
with Katerina petkova
katy_abra 08/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29/May/16 Lead rpt
Hidden ??/2016 -
Twid Turner ??/2016 -
Hidden 30/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Ed Babs 16/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Lead P2. V good

robpartridge 15/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
with Dave Garry
will9911 12/Jul/15 Lead O/S
littleduck ?/Jul/15 2nd
with Tony Madden
Hidden 26/May/15 AltLd dog
pete johnson 26/May/15 AltLd rpt
Hidden ??/2015 -
guy757 09/Sep/14 -
mike lawrence? 10/Jul/14 AltLd

led pitch 2, there's enough gear but hard to read some of the moves, excellent though.

with FatRob
Hidden 06/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Jim Tan ?/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
James Oswald 26/May/14 AltLd O/S

Lead with Nick, second pitch is ace. Not as hard as I expected, there's a little wire before the second (proper) crux. Ace.

with Nick Duboust
NDD 26/May/14 AltLd
with james
Tom Livingstone 25/May/14 AltLd O/S

P2

Hidden 03/May/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/May/14 -
Hidden 24/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
WB 02/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
with Guy
Duncan Campbell 24/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 1 and pitch 3. Thought the wide crack on pitch one was harder than anything on pitch 2 which has good holds and loads of gear as helena emptied her rack into it!

with helena robinson
The Grist 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Alan Barnes
Derek Ryden 05/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Lead pitches 1 and 3.

with Pete Johnson
leon 02/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Been wanting to get on this for a while. Lead P2. First e3 multipitch. Only placed the one runner on the crux wall (the bottom rh piece). When I got my hand over the ledge and realized just how slopy it was I started to think I should have placed more kit ;)

Hidden 02/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
ksjs 19/May/13 AltLd O/S

Led P1 & 3. My first Main Cliff event - brilliant! Just a lovely day, calm sea, mild and the prospect of sun. First pitch needs a wee bit of effort to protect on first section. Short-lived difficulty on P2 and P3 is much better than it looks. Easy E3 and really recommended. We took about 5h 30 from leaving gearing spot to getting back there - way too slow!

with Rich
robinsi197 04/May/13 2nd
Nick Sillem 04/May/13 Lead O/S
Andrew Wilson 07/Oct/12 AltLd O/S
The old James turnbull ?/Aug/12 AltLd
with aiden
Martin Haworth 21/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Superb sustained route. The crux wall on pitch 2 felt hard and a bit bold.

with Andy
Andrew Sloan 21/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 1 and 3. Belayed too low on pitch 1! Pitch 2 very tough, was within a second or 2 of coming off. Good lead by Martin.

Scraggadoo 14/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Led P1

Sardien 07/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

I lead P3 and P2 from the wall up through the lichenous bit. Did it at high tide - had to traverse into belay above P1 as it was too wet to get to the bottom of the climb. Extremely wet and bold lead by Andy. Amazing but friendly (as a second) moves on P2 in a superb position.

with Andy Scott
Hidden 05/May/12 AltLd O/S
Dave Turnbull, BMC 05/May/12 AltLd

Did P1 of the Needle & P2 of Assassin; busy day congestion.

with Ken Palmer
Pete Graham 23/Apr/12 AltLd
with Howard Lawledge
Hidden 14/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
Dave Foster 14/Apr/12 AltLd O/S

P1 and P3.

with Si 2
Owain Llewelyn 22/Mar/12 AltLd
with Gareth E
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden 23/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Exodus 10/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Sophie
Exodus 10/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Sophie
AlexD 07/Jul/11 2nd
with Jake, Dan
dannyboy83 07/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with Jake
jacobjlloyd 07/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Led crux pitch. Low in the grade. Unlike the guidebook description, I thought this was properly safe - plenty of gear on the crux, and not just microwires!

khawk 26/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
with DT
barni 02/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

2nd

with luke
Luke Brooks 02/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

p1+3

with Barni
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2011 AltLd O/S
phil64 ??/2011 -
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
metal arms 21/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Pitch 1 & 3

centurion05 03/Jul/10 AltLd
with patch
Hidden 03/Jul/10 AltLd
Hidden 15/May/10 Lead
geoff b 09/May/10 AltLd

I remember nothing about this except that Pete had total confidence in me & shouted me all the beta!

Alex Mason 07/Feb/10 AltLd O/S

I led first and 3rd pitches. cool climbing, the beginning of main cliff anhilation. hard pulls on the crux.

with Mikey G
Mike Goldthorp 07/Feb/10 AltLd O/S

2nd pitch, c'est magnifique! first experience on main cliff, certainly not the last!

Steve Long ??/2010 -
switch 20/Sep/09 AltLd rpt
Hidden ??/2009 AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/Oct/07 AltLd O/S
mux ??/2007 AltLd O/S

Fantastic climbing.

Dave Rumney 13/Aug/06 AltLd O/S
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
NeilGriffiths ?/May/05 AltLd O/S

superb top pitch

with Dave Garry
Dave Musgrove Jnr ?/Jul/03 Lead O/S
with Viv
Hidden 04/May/02 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/01 -
tuftynick ??/2000 Lead
Tim M ??/2000 AltLd O/S
with Conroy
caveman_chris ?/May/99 Lead
pete johnson 22/Mar/98 AltLd O/S
with Dave Wills
Hidden 04/Aug/96 Lead O/S
Rich Kirby 08/May/95 AltLd O/S
with Derek Miller
Seymore Butt ??/1995 -
with Rad, Gil
andy gittins ??/1990 Lead
keefe ??/1989 -
jon 13/Sep/86 Lead
with H
Roy Stuart ?/May/86 AltLd O/S
with Dave Waters
andy gittins ??/1985 -
Steve Lewis 28/Jul/80 AltLd O/S
with Gordon Tinnings
Hidden ??/1979 -
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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 27
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 27
Votes cast 25
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Not Set