105m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A great route, with some exciting climbing up the big groove bounding the left side of the steeper section of the Main Cliff. Start 8m right of a prominent square block on the sea-level traverse, and underneath a vague line of flakes trending rightwards.
1) 5b, 42m. Climb up to the flakes and follow them rightwards across to a ledge below a short corner. Climb this for few metres and then move left into another left-facing corner which leads to a ledge on the right (the Pentathol belay). A short corner above leads to the end of a huge sloping ledge with a belay over on its right-hand end.
2) 5c, 20m. Move over to the left-hand end of the ledge and climb over the bulge into a corner. Head up and right to a sloping ledge at the bottom of the main groove. Head up and right with difficulty to gain and follow the steep groove and continuation crack formed by a large flake on the right wall. From the top of the flake, make a desperate pull onto a sloping ledge and belay. 3) 5a, 34m. Move left into yet another corner, which is sustained. A tricky exit at the top of the groove leads to a good stance around the arete on the left.
4) 15m. Easy climbing/scrambling leads up behind the stance to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Low in the grade, even without the pegs.

Peter Crew and Dave Alcock (1 pt aid) 1966

Ticklists: Hard Rock, North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales E3's, ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales, 20 For 2018.

Ewan Russell 19/Sep/17 AltLd O/S


with Cam Bevan
Neil McA 23/Jul/17 AltLd rpt

P2 requires confidence and felt harder than on my previous ascent 36 years earlier!

with Greg Cunningham
Greg Cunningham 23/Jul/17 Lead O/S

Great climb - quite bold at start of pitch 2. I lead p2 & p3.

with neil mcadie
Graham Westbrook 22/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd pitch. Quite scary but all there. Sustained 3rd pitch. Excellent

mark4344 22/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

I led pitches 1+3. Both sustained,but steady climbing. Pitch 2 v.commiting,but moves ok.

with Graham westbrook
Hidden 16/Jul/17 2nd
funsized 16/Jul/17 Lead O/S
with Andy T
Ellis Bird ?/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
Sophie Nunn 03/Jun/17 AltLd O/S


with Andy P
Longsufferingropeholder 02/Jun/17 AltLd O/S

P1 sopping wet and terrifying. P2 Ed's problem (good work Ed). P3 a beautiful, sustained, loooong romp into the sunshine.

with Ed
geoff b 29/May/17 AltLd

Wow, what a route & definitely E3. P1 looked improbable at 5a but Derek raced up it. P2 had loads of technical moves & was greasy too, so didn't give in easily. P3 was a delight to us oldsters. I think we were the only people climbing on Main Cliff today!

with Derek Blizzard
Derek Ryden 29/May/17 AltLd O/S
pie_eater_pete 23/May/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/May/17 AltLd
Jim Tan ?/May/17 AltLd O/S
Timothy Miller 07/Apr/17 AltLd O/S

Sweat, did P1&3

davkeo 07/Apr/17 AltLd O/S

Led p2 which is pretty bold with an unappealing fall potential. Took a while committing to crux as the holds ahead looked very directional & the climbing insecure. Really enjoyable once the bomber gear finally arrived. P1&3 are very good also. An adventurous route with a very atmospheric approach.

Hidden 24/Mar/17 AltLd
esther ?/Mar/17 Lead
Cam Bevan ??/2017 AltLd
beagly77 ??/2017 -
The old James turnbull 27/Oct/16 AltLd rpt


with John Crook
Mike_Hayes 08/Oct/16 AltLd O/S

Led crux pitch - excellent fun. Direct looks better

with Mike Lea
harry_lewis 05/Oct/16 AltLd
with Shaun
shaunhumphreys 05/Oct/16 AltLd O/S

After setting out intending to do assassin... harry quested off on a bit of a mad one and ended up on this! wasn't keen for the crux pitch when we discovered where we were as it sounded pretty grim in the guide, but it actually wasn't that bad, lead P3. Would agree that its low in the grade, whole thing felt pretty steady.

Hidden 20/Sep/16 AltLd dog
Rhys Macallister 20/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
with Suzana
Misha 17/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

Good route. Led P1, which was juggy fun on a wandering line. Eve dispatched P2, which I thought was sustained and quite bold, with particularly unnerving moves moving onto the belay ledge, solid at E3. I led the sustained groove pitch (harder and cleaner than it looks) and linked in the easy exit pitch.

with Eve
eel 17/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
with Misha
alexjz 14/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

P1&3. Very good

with George Ullrich
sev 06/Jul/16 -
Hidden 05/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/Jul/16 AltLd
Lenny 04/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
with Hidden
Hidden 03/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
Flavio 02/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 18/Jun/16 AltLd
Chrissy202 18/Jun/16 2nd dog
with Luke
Hidden 18/Jun/16 Lead
JCAshman 15/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
Robb Bert 11/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Lead pitches 2 & 3

Nigel Bond 11/Jun/16 AltLd

Jen led pitch 2

JendeHoxar 11/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

I led p2

MichaelGallimore 02/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

Pitch 2 felt stiff! I let p1 and p3.

Hidden 14/May/16 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2016 -
Twid Turner ??/2016 -
Hidden 06/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
redshapedfriday 01/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
GPN 01/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Awesome route. Good conditions. Led P1 and P3.

wi11 12/Jul/15 AltLd O/S


with Louisa Reynolds, Ross Creber
Stoney Boy 09/Jul/15 AltLd

1 & 3

with Nick Conway
tessa teapot ?/Jul/15 AltLd
Sardien 30/Jun/15 AltLd dog

Thought I had it this time, tiny footslip on P2 when I was too eager to get to the saviour hold on the right. Found a very useful undercut on the corner second go and then it was fine. Will have to come back and do it again!

tebs 30/May/15 AltLd O/S

Great route, Adam led the spooky feeling crux. Insecure moves between good rests with good but not always confidence-inspiring gear. Not sure about low in the grade, I'd say pretty solid for E3.

with Adam
Hidden 10/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2015 -
dan ely ??/2015 AltLd O/S

a little over hyped but nicly sustained.

with dave chew
phil64 ??/2015 Lead
Brown 26/Jul/14 AltLd
with Joel
James Oswald 29/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Lead p1 and p3, had to rest to get a wire out on the crux pitch. Good climbing, though moving up from the ledge is bold especially if you're short. Very hot and sore feet.

Rachel Slater 29/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Lead crux pitch 2. It was really hot and my feet hurt a lot.

mr mills 22/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Led P1 and P3, great climbing a bit scruffy on P3 but very enjoyable !

with alun hughes
Allanfairfechan ??/2014 2nd
with Dave Woodcock
Hidden ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
tim newton 16/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 09/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
The Grist 25/May/13 AltLd O/S
with Alan Barnes
Andrew Wilson 22/May/13 AltLd O/S

P2,4. Led the crux pitch. Amazing route, solid E3.

dave o 19/May/13 AltLd

Wee rest when I couldn't see the jug on the crux

andyinglis 19/May/13 AltLd

Great route! Lead P1 and P3. Pity bout Dave's brief sit on the rope above the crux on P2!

Dizz 04/May/13 2nd

Damp! One slip.

with EJ
Hidden 04/May/13 AltLd O/S
Sardien 20/Apr/13 AltLd dog

What a great adventure! Very aptly named too. Splendid lead of Helena doing the wet crux pitch, I struggled lots more on a second. Led P1 & 3 Loved it

with Helena Robinson
captain ??/2013 -
JRae 07/Oct/12 AltLd
with Liam P
ellis 22/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
with Dave Hollinger, Tom Holdsworth
Hidden 05/Sep/12 AltLd
alaan 05/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Excellent adventure - Will was just fast enough on the first pitch to stop the water from swallowing our (my) feet and did an excellent job of gardening on the 3rd pitch.

with Will
The old James turnbull ?/Aug/12 AltLd
with aiden
Cardi 28/Apr/12 AltLd O/S

Led P1 & P3. Great way to get back into trad for the season!

with Gwen
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Owain Llewelyn 30/Sep/11 AltLd
with Doddy
Duncan Campbell 23/Sep/11 AltLd

Led Pitch 3. Tried pitch 2 but was stopped by reachy moves above the first ledge and a slight lack of confidence. Pitch 3 is brilliant though, felt really chilled so dont feel too bad about my lack of crush on the crux, I only just blagged it on second...

with Owain
owain86 23/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

Lead P1,2 and 4. Pitch 2 was good, with some cruxy moves. Pitch 3 was sustained. 5b,5c,5b,4a

with Duncan
Hidden 24/Jul/11 AltLd
Hidden 24/Jul/11 AltLd
Luke Brooks 19/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Led crux

with Glyn Hudson
Glyn 19/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
with Luke
Pete Graham 26/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
with Andy Hall
pasbury ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/2011 -
willoates 15/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

I lead P2, belayed at the right of the sloping ledge instead of the left, felt a bit sketchy until john got up with more gear. nice route though

with john
Diggler 08/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
with Buddle
Hidden 11/Jul/10 AltLd rpt
switch 15/May/10 AltLd rpt
with Leanne
Hidden 23/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
JulesV 22/Apr/10 AltLd
with joe bawden
barni 13/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
with long jon
stevebarratt ?/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
with Rob Bryniarski
Hidden 26/Jan/10 AltLd
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
Steve Long ??/2010 -
Hidden 20/Sep/09 2nd rpt
Hidden 17/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Sep/09 Lead dnf
Hidden ?/Sep/09 AltLd
Hidden 29/Jun/09 2nd O/S
Toby Dunn 22/Jun/09 AltLd
with Andy Reeve
khawk 31/May/09 AltLd O/S
with DT
datoon 31/May/09 AltLd O/S
with K
Ed Booth 21/May/09 AltLd O/S

led crux pitch. went to main cliff on bikes.

Adam Booth 21/May/09 AltLd O/S
Adam Booth 21/Mar/09 AltLd O/S
DavidEvans 21/Mar/09 Lead

Led Pitch 1 (5a)

Ed Booth 21/Mar/09 AltLd
Adam Ellwood 21/Mar/09 AltLd O/S
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2009 -
with Rory Shaw
Hidden ??/2009 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/08 AltLd
Hidden ??/2008 AltLd O/S
kingholmesy ??/2008 AltLd O/S

Led 1st & 3rd pitches.

with Brian
Al Evans ??/2008 -
Marcus ??/2008 -
Hidden ?/Oct/07 AltLd O/S
Rich Mayfield 02/Aug/07 AltLd
Mark Stevenson 02/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
with Rich Mayfield
Hidden 08/Jun/07 AltLd O/S
pete johnson 29/Apr/07 AltLd
with Kevin Sales
Chad123 15/Apr/07 AltLd O/S

Great route, pitch two felt exciting with all pegs missing! Pitch 3 a little dirty but still a great pitch. The 5a pitch took the longest!

with Emily
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
centurion05 ??/2007 AltLd O/S
with chris thorne
bronsonite 15/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
with Dave Barrans
dan gibson 12/Jun/06 AltLd
with john nuttal
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
WB 31/Jul/04 Lead O/S
with Guy
spidey 02/Sep/03 Lead
with doyle
Simonfarfaraway ??/2003 AltLd


with Dave A
Hidden ?/May/02 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2002 AltLd O/S
Rich Kirby 02/Sep/01 AltLd O/S
with Ant
pete johnson 05/May/01 -
with Nell Doust
philhilo ?/May/01 AltLd O/S

Hot May

nige ??/2001 AltLd
with mark hounslea
Julian Wedd ??/2001 AltLd
with A. Howarth
NeilGriffiths ??/2000 AltLd
with Albert, James Hubbard
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
caveman_chris ?/May/99 Lead
pauldrew ??/1998 AltLd
with Brighid Rowe
phardman 20/Jul/97 -
ste_d 12/Jul/97 AltLd O/S
with mik
nokishatov 12/Jul/97 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30/Mar/97 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove Jnr 30/Mar/97 AltLd
with Jon Sykes
sadams 09/Mar/97 AltLd O/S
with John Boyle
Ched ??/1997 Lead O/S
with Mark Hamilton
frost ?/Jul/96 AltLd
with S Raw
michael burrows 14/Apr/95 AltLd rpt
with richard parry
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
richparry ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
SB_NWUK_99 ??/1995 AltLd

Climbed in the 1990s.

Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
Dave Rumney 30/Jul/94 AltLd
with Dennis Wong
wynaptomos ?/Jul/94 AltLd O/S
pete johnson 30/Apr/94 -
with Steve Findlay
steve taylor ??/1994 -
auld al ??/1994 Lead dnf

Started up this instead of Pentathol by mistake (1st time on cliff) I estimate I had climbed about 90% of the 2nd pitch but then took a rest thinking it was a bit hard for HVS! didn't know what we were on and the following pitch looked steep too, so lowered off a piece of in situ. A shame as it would have been a nice tick at a time when i was climbing at my best.

Hidden ??/1994 AltLd
Grezza ?/Sep/92 AltLd O/S
with Mick RIP
MikeYouCanClimb 25/May/92 Lead
with Tony Sawyer
mattnuttall 08/Sep/91 AltLd O/S
with Alan Holden
Neil R 31/Aug/91 2nd
with Richard W
Roget 23/May/91 2nd O/S
with colin
NickJH ?/May/91 2nd O/S
with D Picker
PaulTanton ?/May/91 Lead O/S
with Smokin Dick
charlesmfrench 27/Aug/90 AltLd O/S


with Ian Milne
pete johnson 13/May/90 AltLd O/S
with Andy Blakely
Seymore Butt ??/1990 Lead
with Ian Fenton
Hidden 18/Sep/88 Lead
michael burrows 24/Apr/88 AltLd O/S

led 1st and 2nd pitch

with ket
Hidden ??/1988 -
Hidden ??/1988 AltLd O/S
steveboote ??/1988 Lead

With Vic Belshaw

Mike Owen 20/Jun/87 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Bob 16/May/87 AltLd O/S
with R. Graham
Roy Stuart ?/May/86 AltLd O/S
with Dave Waters
William Robertson ??/1986 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
ukb & bmc shark ?/Oct/85 Lead rpt

After failing on Graduation Ceremony again

with Charlie Stripp
ukb & bmc shark 09/Sep/85 AltLd O/S
with Seb Grieve
Mike Owen 16/Jun/85 2nd rpt
with Simon King
GuyM ??/1985 -
Hidden ??/1985 Lead
Lone Rider 22/Apr/84 AltLd
with Alan Shand
keefe 19/Aug/83 -
Martin Bennett 21/Aug/82 -
with JD
redjerry ?/Jul/82 Lead O/S
with Bob Duncan
Hidden 22/May/82 Lead
Ian Jones ??/1982 AltLd O/S
with Dave Greenald, Billy Jones, Chris Gore, Tom Jones, Paul Stott, 'Flog'
Dave Musgrove 27/Jun/81 AltLd
with Kim Greenald
Hidden 16/May/81 Lead
uphillnow ?/May/81 AltLd

Al did crux, since lead on other ascents

with Al Bennett
Chris Craggs 10/Apr/81 AltLd
with Colin Binks
Hidden ?/Apr/81 AltLd
duncan ?/Mar/81 AltLd O/S
with Simon Reed
Neil McA 28/Aug/80 AltLd

Wow! 17 years old and my first climb on a sea cliff. Quite some introduction even though a followed the hard pitch

with Someone called John I met in The Pass
Mark Kemball 27/Jun/80 AltLd
with Wawa
Campbell42 ?/May/80 AltLd O/S
with Eric Marsden
Hidden ??/1980 AltLd
Paul Clarke ??/1980 AltLd
Steve Lewis 12/May/79 AltLd O/S
with Charlie
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ??/1979 AltLd
with Dorothy Bogg, John Bogg
GeoffG 30/May/78 AltLd O/S
with tony bowker
Mike Owen 29/Apr/78 AltLd O/S
with Pete Craig
Hidden 08/Apr/77 AltLd
Hidden 04/Dec/76 AltLd
Bolt Phobia 14/May/76 2nd dnf
with Dave Williams
Marcus ??/1976 -
Falko 12/Apr/75 AltLd O/S

Wendigo, Rat Race and Big Groove in a day. Pete Holden (rarely given to effervescence) commented "a good day lads".

with Howard Lancashire
mikej 13/Sep/69 AltLd
with Bill Church
Hidden ??/1967 AltLd dnf
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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 35
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 35
Votes cast 35
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set