450m, 8 pitches. This Route climbs a steep stepped corner up the East Face of Bugaboo Spire. Start on a slab below a wide loose chimney that bounds the left side of a large yellow patch of rock at the base of the East Face.
1. Climb off the glacier and up the lose chimney. Belay on a block at the top of the chimney. 5.8 80m
2. Scramble up and left along the balcony to belay in the bottom quartz band at the base of the left most stepped corner. 5.1 20m
3. Climb the stepped corner through a number of overhangs and a few cruxes. The final overhang is surmounted by making an awkward move using a dubious hanging fin. Belay about 10 m up the corner above the last roof on a foot ledge. 5.11a, 40m
4. Continue up easier ground in the corner until it is possible to step out left using a flake. Move up past a small roof until it is possible to step back right onto the face and use a splitter finger crack in a shallow corner. Continue up to a good ledge. 5.10d, 55m
5. Climb off the left end of the belay ledge up a shallow corner to a small roof. Make a hard mantle onto the fluted face above then continue up the flutings until it is possible to regain the main left facing corner. 5.11b, 50m
6. Continue up the corner system above to reach a large ledge. 5.10b, 60m
7 and 8. Step down off the ledge to the right and move around the corner. Continue up a crack system until it is possible to move up over the top of the wall and belay on the upper NE buttress. 5.10c, 100m

Moorhead 2011.

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