UKC

10m. Main wall north of pond (left when facing pond), starting at the lower tier.
About 150 metres north of the pond, the main wall's lower tier becomes split, with a distinctive terrace at 2/3rds height. This route climbs the wall via this terrace (south/right of Windy Crack), using one of the lines of least resistance.

At the foot of the lowest tier there are several patches of water that persist even in summer, along with many buddleia bushes. There is a fairly clear and dry spot, on top of a slight (1.5 ft) angular ledge, between two bushes. Climb onto an obvious flake, and then pull up over fairly solid rock onto the intermediate terrace. There are several variations at this point, although as the rock/ mud is loose, the line of least resistance tempts.

After climbing onto the main terrace, a leftwards sloping ramp of crumbly jugs should be visible roughly in front of you. This is to the left of the last high quality bouldering rock as one walks south towards the pool. Scramble up this ramp onto a stance, edge along this to a shorter and steeper ramp (possible crux). Move up and rightwards up this, onto the cliff top.

This could all be tackled as a pitched climb (dubious placements?) at Moderate.

H. Flear-Charlton, R. Hart. 11/Aug/2015.

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