UKC

Rockfax Description
A serious route, that is popular nonetheless. It had bolt runners in the past which were removed, but a single stub still exists and most people still use a small wire hooked over it. Start beneath a vague cracked groove that leads onto the upper wall, about 14m left of the corner of Blue Peter. Ascend the cracked groove and then trend right to spike runners at 8m. Then move delicately up and right to an undercut flake (cams and occasionally a fixed thread). Difficult moves rightwards across the flake lead to a good foothold by one of the old bolt stubs. Steady your nerves and make committing moves up towards a break-line - don't lunge for it, as it slopes alarmingly. Eventually you reach a ledge where the climbing eases and the top can be reached more or less direct. © Rockfax

Ron Fawcett, 1978

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, North Wales Super Route E6's, Great Wall Climbs of the UK, North Wales Rock Graded List, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, 100 or so good E6s - aye Caff, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), The Lifetime List, Stanners lifetime Onsight list (because what else is there to do?).


ClimberDateStyle
andyinglis 08/Aug Lead dnf

Ab’ed to check the thread and had a look at the holds in the upper half. Worrying climbing and gear to the thread, then lobbed onto the bolt stub when moving above the sloping break. Not sure if it was a foot slip or small flake snapped. Pity. Audience of 10 seals by the time I took flight.

with Murdoch Jamieson
Nickc 19/May/17 Lead β
with Jules
Hidden ??/2017 -
beagly77 ??/2017 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 18/Jun/16 Lead β

Wanted to do this for years and it didn't disappoint (although the gear most certainly did!!). Maybe only French 6c, but the 101 slings and dubious rock hardly inspire confidence. The bolt head was also around 1000x worse than I'd imagined it to be, but the thread (which I replaced on abseil beforehand) is bomber - as such there was some vague reassurance that I wasn't going to hit the ground!

penny.orr 18/Jun/16 2nd

So fun on second! Would probably have fainted from the fear on lead!

Ram MkiV 14/Mar/16 Lead O/S

Totally gripped! Some nice climbing but had a hard time trusting the rock to not break and all the dodgy pro to prevent dying if it did.

with Al
Hidden ??/2016 -
Twid Turner ??/2016 -
Hidden ??/2016 -
Hidden ??/2016 -
datoon 18/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with MJ
phil64 ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
Alex Mason 09/Sep/14 2nd rpt

Fantastic climbing all the way!

Tom Livingstone 09/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Without the bolt! Pretty run-out and spicy from the bolt foot-ledges to the jugs: definitely a big sigh of relief when I reached the end of the hard climbing. Awesome experience!

Russell Birkett 21/May/13 2nd

Took a big one from the upper wall when a wee flake crimp snapped. Gutted. Was enjoying it to that point! Dave escaped up the ab rope and i 2nd it.

Hidden ??/2013 Solo O/S
Alex Mason 16/May/12 Lead O/S

Exhilarating. Didn't thread the old bolt head, felt E6 like this, monster runout on the actual crux (excluding a skyhook that fell off in the end).

with Gwen Lancashire
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Jack Geldard ??/2011 -
owenH ??/2011 -
Adam Lincoln 21/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Best ever! I knew stuff about it, but its all common knowledge.

with Mick Lovatt
dan gibson 27/Jul/10 Lead O/S

first E6 onsight

with blair fyffe
Hidden ??/2010 -
Steve Long ??/2010 -
barni 19/Jul/09 2nd O/S
with long jon
Ed Booth 15/Jun/09 Lead O/S

Didn't use the bolt. Awesome route. Very bold and runnout. What a letdown the flase break was. I thought it was just bad for gear, there were no holds.

with grady
Toby Dunn 03/May/09 Lead O/S
with Joe Bawden
Hidden 17/Oct/08 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/08 Lead O/S
morganator 31/May/08 Lead O/S
with Stan Halstead
IOAN D 17/May/08 Lead O/S

E5

with Mills
Al Evans ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2007 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2006 Lead O/S
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 18/Jun/05 2nd rpt
with Ed Brown
jgordon75 ??/2005 TR

1 rest. Not that hard to climb but will leave leading it until next week.

with Luke Foulger
nicholas Barrowclough 10/Nov/04 Lead

Fantastic quality route.

with Norman Clacher
Jon Garside ?/May/04 Lead O/S

Ok so it's a classic, but all rather snappy.

Hidden ??/2003 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2003 -
Steve Crowe 28/Oct/01 2nd rpt

Karin led both The Cad and The Long Run Direct today.

with karin
tuftynick ??/2001 Lead O/S
with andy benson
mike reed ??/2001 Lead O/S

Wonderful bold climbing with crap gear above the flake. Total focus!!

sadams 29/Jul/00 Lead O/S
with Eric Hildrew
phil64 01/Apr/00 -
Hidden ??/1998 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/1997 Lead O/S
ellis ??/1997 2nd

Followed Patch Hammond, with swing over to retrieve gear on Bells peg.

Si Witcher ??/1997 Lead O/S

no bolt

Marc Elliott 07/Jul/96 Lead O/S
with Kath
bazza ?/Jul/96 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove Jnr 04/Aug/95 Lead O/S
with Nick Ashton
D Tempest 16/Jul/94 2nd
with Rick
Steve Crowe 31/Oct/93 Lead O/S

Took lots of "boot lace" slings for the blunt spikes (not sure they would have held a fall), clipped the bolt...

with karin
jfletcher 30/Aug/93 Lead O/S

Bolt not clipped.

with David Gilkes
Rich Kirby 27/Jun/93 2nd O/S
with Phil
Hidden ?/Jun/93 Lead O/S
crossleysm ?/May/93 Lead O/S
with Mick Ryan
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ?/Jul/92 Lead O/S

With the bolt.

with Timmy Bonner
Neil McA 21/Apr/90 2nd O/S

A good lead from Andy in misty damp conditions

with Andy Cave
Steve Walker 31/Mar/90 Lead

Easy E4 type climbing, but terrible protection after half height. Great route though, just don't fall off (OR TAKE A BOLT WITH YOU).

with paul entwistle
mik1miller ??/1990 Lead O/S

took a big whipper nearly hit the ground from the top got back on and did it

with elliot blaylock
Seymore Butt ??/1990 2nd
with Gil, Dave Barton
donie ??/1990 -
donie ??/1990 -
donie ??/1990 -
donie ??/1990 -
donie ??/1990 -
donie ??/1990 -
donie ??/1990 -
donie ??/1990 -
frank ramsay ??/1988 Lead

Clipped the bolt. E5 and still bold!

Hidden ?/May/87 2nd
Hidden 28/Jan/87 Lead
William Robertson ??/1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Hidden ?/Jul/86 Lead
mark mcgowan01 ??/1986 Lead O/S
with Johnny Dawes
duncan ?/Sep/84 Lead O/S
with Dave who moved to New Zealand
Mike Owen 24/Apr/83 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
Phil Davidson 02/May/82 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Sep/79 2nd
Hidden ??/1979 TR
Hidden ??/1973 -
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Votes cast 16
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Votes cast 17
Votes cast 14
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
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Not Set