Rockfax Description
A strenuous route with a fine sustained first pitch. Start beneath the right-hand of two wide cracks a little left of The Ramp. Summon all the energy you can, and make sure you've paid your bills; you don't want the power to be cut off before the belay.
1) 6a, 25m. Climb the crack direct to belay on The Ramp. A lot harder than this brief description suggests.
2) 5c, 28m. From the right-hand end on the ledge, go right into a hanging groove. Go up and move left to a thin crack. This leads to an easier groove on the left which is followed to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Trad climbs for sport climbers, Ultimate E5 ticklist.

bede.west 27/Oct/17 2nd dog

Tried to lead and failed then also fell seconding. Good to get all the moves though definitely makes E5 feel in reach.

Sophie Nunn 29/Jul/17 AltLd O/S


with Jon L
jonleighton 29/Jul/17 Lead O/S
soph 22/Jul/17 Lead O/S
with Emma Twyford
Hidden 22/Jul/17 Lead O/S
Misha 22/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

Eszter ran up P1, which is really good. I did it fine on second but not sure I'd have managed it clean on lead. The holds are mostly good but it's steep and there's lots of slopey sidepulling. Couldn't wedge myself into the resting niche so just had a brief poor rest off a knee bar and chicken wing. Cams 3 and 4 reassuring but not essential if you double up on cams 0.5 and 0.75. I led P3 - tricky to get established in the hanging groove, initially well protected (thin sling essential) but gets into ledge hitting territory just as the climbing eases. Bold E3 5c. Good gear and E1/2 climbing after that, not particularly loose but a vegetated Fowleresque top out awaits - care required! Abbed off from above the Eternal Optimist, leaving a sling and crab which Sophie had found earlier. There's an ab point at the top of P1 but those after an adventure should definitely do P2...

with Eszter
esther ?/Jul/17 Lead
sparkass 28/May/17 AltLd O/S
with Sam Melville , Mike Shorter
mshorter 27/May/17 AltLd
with dunc
JendeHoxar 01/Apr/17 2nd O/S
with Flavio
Flavio 01/Apr/17 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2017 -
Toby Dunn ??/2017 Lead
Duncan Campbell 30/Jul/16 Lead dnf

Commitment Crisis! 1st go up put the wrong size cam in before the undercut flake and it wasn't great so lowered off. Next go up got the right size in and got the kit in the undercut flake, then fell off. Third go up tried some different kneebar beta but fell off again. Find the crux very puzzling. Keen to go back -have a few ideas for different things to try next time. Very strenuous so hard to hang around to work things out - need bigger arms! Being good at Euro-style tufa wrestling would pay dividends on this

with Georgia
Elliot Walker 25/Jul/16 Lead β

Pete went up to the crux and couldn't do it, so we pulled the ropes and I climbed up to there on preplaced gear, but then onsight for the finish. Really good, not really sure what I did through the crux.

with Pete
pete johnson 25/Jul/16 2nd

2nded Elliot after failing to lead.

with Elliot
Dale Comley 04/Jun/16 Lead

P2 totally grim

Matt Cooke 04/Jun/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/May/16 Lead RP
Dave Turnbull, BMC 04/May/16 2nd
with Clinton Martengo, Glynn Hudson
Glyn 04/May/16 Lead O/S


with Clinton
Hidden ??/2016 -
Twid Turner ??/2016 -
Adam Booth 26/Sep/15 Lead dnf

Shut down!

with John Roberts, Jon Morgan
morganator 26/Sep/15 2nd
Ally Baba 22/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Guy Steven
Steve Crowe 05/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Superb stamina test.

with KM
NDD 21/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with tony stone
morganator 12/May/15 Lead O/S
with International Meet Guest
Hidden 10/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Rich Kirby 30/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Pumpy & squirmy! Ace.

Glenn Sutcliffe 09/Oct/13 Lead O/S

Pleased to on sight this, climbed pitch 1 only. Wish I'd seen comments on here re #3.5 cam, a bit scary without.

with Pete Cresswell
Dave Turnbull, BMC 05/Oct/13 Lead dnf

Take a big cam next time

with Frank Ramsey
Pieterjan De Roo 20/Sep/13 Lead O/S
The old James turnbull 24/Jul/13 2nd

lead before

with will sim
Ramon Marin 29/Jun/13 AltLd dnf

Wet, so had to bail half way up, gutted as it looked amazing. Will go back with conditions

with Tom le fanu
Alice Thompson 25/May/13 AltLd O/S
dan gibson 25/May/13 AltLd O/S

I led pitch one. Alice pitch two, impressive as only her fourth day trad climbing.

with alice thompson
willoates 05/Apr/13 Lead β

Flashed it on Luke's gear, don't know if I could have done it placing the gear. good route with a tricky crux. went into sport climbing mode at the top, throwing for things.

with Luke
The old James turnbull ?/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with aiden
Jacob Bloodworth ?/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Howard Lawledge 07/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Jun/12 Lead
Alex Mason 28/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Superb. Brilliant steep sequences with a committing crux in the middle. Crucial 3.5 cam. Tried last year without but reversed to the ground. Reversed twice today before attacking it.

with Bubbles
i_a_coops 19/Nov/11 AltLd RP

RP'd pitch 1, very glad I didn't lead p2. See Jacob's comment for full breakdown of our unstylish ascent. Sport climbing on Gogarth - I am a bad person! Also, crux felt full value 6b, one of the holds changed shape drastically every time we touched it so maybe that has something to do with it.

with Jacob
Hidden 19/Nov/11 Lead dnf
jacobjacob 19/Nov/11 Lead RP

Good route. Not the best style of ascent... I had a go, fell off at the crux (uk 6b imo) then lowered off. Then Ian had a go and got to the top resting on the gear. Then I got it next go with all the gear in place. Then led the top pitch which is VERY LOOSE!

Adam Lincoln 30/May/11 Lead β
with Joe Bertalot
ksjs 09/May/11 Lead dnf

More like confidence crisis: up and down about 5 times at the off-width bit. Felt a bit out of my depth on this but in reality I think I just didn't fancy falling onto a cam and probably thought this would be 'easy' having seen 2 people waltz up it earlier in the day - bad approach. Reversed to ground.

with Paul S
Hidden ?/May/11 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2011 Lead O/S

Easiest of the 3 Upper Tier E5s

with Benno Wagner
switch 20/Sep/09 Lead rpt
Hidden 20/Sep/08 Lead
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 15/Jul/07 Lead RP
with Ed Brown
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden 15/Aug/04 Lead
Hidden ??/2004 -
Dave Musgrove Jnr 06/May/01 AltLd O/S

Excellent 1st pitch (I led). 2nd pitch loose and horrible - Simon's ha ha

Hidden ??/1990 Lead
keefe ??/1989 -
Hidden 22/Aug/85 Lead
Mike Owen 09/Apr/85 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
Hidden 01/May/78 AltLd
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