Rockfax Description
A strenuous route with a fine sustained first pitch. Start beneath the right-hand of two wide cracks a little left of The Ramp. Summon all the energy you can, and make sure you've paid your bills; you don't want the power to be cut off before the belay.
1) 6a, 25m. Climb the crack direct to belay on The Ramp. A lot harder than this brief description suggests.
2) 5c, 28m. From the right-hand end on the ledge, go right into a hanging groove. Go up and move left to a thin crack. This leads to an easier groove on the left which is followed to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List, Trad climbs for sport climbers, Ultimate E5 ticklist

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
peter.herd 13 Aug Lead
with Guy S, Lou R
with Guy S, Lou R
ian bryant 18 May AltLd O/S
Liz.Morrison 25 Aug, 2018 Lead dnf Insane route-finding error while looking for Bezel. Felt stiff for Brit 4b!! I was getting flashbacks of 6b & 6b+ sport routes and thinking "this doesn't feel right". I placed 6 pieces of gear over 8 meters or so (3 on each rope roughly paired) the final pieces was a ridiulouly precarious looking sling on a shallow hand hold right and I decided it was time to lower off! It cost us so much time I had to dog my way up the last pitch of Bezel in the dark, lessons to be learned!
with Matt Gordon
Insane route-finding error while looking for Bezel. Felt stiff for Brit 4b!! I was getting flashbacks of 6b & 6b+ sport routes and thinking "this doesn't feel right". I placed 6 pieces of gear over 8 meters or so (3 on each rope roughly paired) the final pieces was a ridiulouly precarious looking sling on a shallow hand hold right and I decided it was time to lower off! It cost us so much time I had to dog my way up the last pitch of Bezel in the dark, lessons to be learned!
with Matt Gordon
Richard Kendrick 4 Aug, 2018 Lead dnf Absolutely baking! Not a great idea trying to squirm with sweaty arms. Nice climbing to the undercut, weird shuffling after that.
Absolutely baking! Not a great idea trying to squirm with sweaty arms. Nice climbing to the undercut, weird shuffling after that.
debsb 28 Apr, 2018 Lead
with Glenda Huxter
with Glenda Huxter
treesrockice 27 Oct, 2017 2nd dog Tried to lead and failed then also fell seconding. Good to get all the moves though definitely makes E5 feel in reach.
Tried to lead and failed then also fell seconding. Good to get all the moves though definitely makes E5 feel in reach.
Sophie Nunn 29 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S P2
P2
jonleighton 29 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
soph 22 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
with Emma Twyford
with Emma Twyford
Hidden 22 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
Misha 22 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S Eszter ran up P1, which is really good. I did it fine on second but not sure I'd have managed it clean on lead. The holds are mostly good but it's steep and there's lots of slopey sidepulling. Couldn't wedge myself into the resting niche so just had a brief poor rest off a knee bar and chicken wing. Cams 3 and 4 reassuring but not essential if you double up on cams 0.5 and 0.75. I led P3 - tricky to get established in the hanging groove, initially well protected (thin sling essential) but gets into ledge hitting territory just as the climbing eases. Bold E3 5c. Good gear and E1/2 climbing after that, not particularly loose but a vegetated Fowleresque top out awaits - care required! Abbed off from above the Eternal Optimist, leaving a sling and crab which Sophie had found earlier. There's an ab point at the top of P1 but those after an adventure should definitely do P2...
with eszter
Eszter ran up P1, which is really good. I did it fine on second but not sure I'd have managed it clean on lead. The holds are mostly good but it's steep and there's lots of slopey sidepulling. Couldn't wedge myself into the resting niche so just had a brief poor rest off a knee bar and chicken wing. Cams 3 and 4 reassuring but not essential if you double up on cams 0.5 and 0.75. I led P3 - tricky to get established in the hanging groove, initially well protected (thin sling essential) but gets into ledge hitting territory just as the climbing eases. Bold E3 5c. Good gear and E1/2 climbing after that, not particularly loose but a vegetated Fowleresque top out awaits - care required! Abbed off from above the Eternal Optimist, leaving a sling and crab which Sophie had found earlier. There's an ab point at the top of P1 but those after an adventure should definitely do P2...
with eszter
esther ?Jul, 2017 Lead
sparkass 28 May, 2017 AltLd O/S Brutal! Got this by the skin of my teeth. Got to the tooth OK then got a bit stressed. After a while I somehow managed to find the knee bar and the wild moves passed this. Don't think I've ever been closer to coming off, very pumped, lots of noise. Yes!
with Sam Melville , mshorter
Brutal! Got this by the skin of my teeth. Got to the tooth OK then got a bit stressed. After a while I somehow managed to find the knee bar and the wild moves passed this. Don't think I've ever been closer to coming off, very pumped, lots of noise. Yes!
with Sam Melville , mshorter
mshorter 27 May, 2017 AltLd
JendeHoxar 1 Apr, 2017 2nd O/S
with Flavio
with Flavio
Flavio 1 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2017 -
Toby Dunn ??, 2017 Lead
Duncan Campbell 30 Jul, 2016 Lead dnf Commitment Crisis! 1st go up put the wrong size cam in before the undercut flake and it wasn't great so lowered off. Next go up got the right size in and got the kit in the undercut flake, then fell off. Third go up tried some different kneebar beta but fell off again. Find the crux very puzzling. Keen to go back -have a few ideas for different things to try next time. Very strenuous so hard to hang around to work things out - need bigger arms! Being good at Euro-style tufa wrestling would pay dividends on this
with Georgia
Commitment Crisis! 1st go up put the wrong size cam in before the undercut flake and it wasn't great so lowered off. Next go up got the right size in and got the kit in the undercut flake, then fell off. Third go up tried some different kneebar beta but fell off again. Find the crux very puzzling. Keen to go back -have a few ideas for different things to try next time. Very strenuous so hard to hang around to work things out - need bigger arms! Being good at Euro-style tufa wrestling would pay dividends on this
with Georgia
Elliot Walker 25 Jul, 2016 Lead β Pete went up to the crux and couldn't do it, so we pulled the ropes and I climbed up to there on preplaced gear, but then onsight for the finish. Really good, not really sure what I did through the crux.
with Pete
Pete went up to the crux and couldn't do it, so we pulled the ropes and I climbed up to there on preplaced gear, but then onsight for the finish. Really good, not really sure what I did through the crux.
with Pete
pete johnson 25 Jul, 2016 2nd 2nded Elliot after failing to lead.
2nded Elliot after failing to lead.
Dale Comley 4 Jun, 2016 Lead P2 totally grim
P2 totally grim
Matt Cooke 4 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden 22 May, 2016 Lead RP
Dave Turnbull, BMC 4 May, 2016 2nd
with Clinton Martengo, Glynn Hudson
with Clinton Martengo, Glynn Hudson
Glyn 4 May, 2016 Lead O/S P1
with Clinton
P1
with Clinton
Hidden ??, 2016 -
Twid Turner ??, 2016 -
Adam Booth 26 Sep, 2015 Lead dnf Shut down!
with John Roberts, morganator
Shut down!
with John Roberts, morganator
morganator 26 Sep, 2015 2nd
Ally Baba 22 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S
with Guy Steven
with Guy Steven
Steve Crowe 5 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S Superb stamina test.
with karin
Superb stamina test.
with karin
NDD 21 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
with tony stone
with tony stone
morganator 12 May, 2015 Lead O/S
with International Meet Guest
with International Meet Guest
Hidden 10 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 10 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
Rich Kirby 30 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S Pumpy & squirmy! Ace.
Pumpy & squirmy! Ace.
Glenn Sutcliffe 9 Oct, 2013 Lead O/S Pleased to on sight this, climbed pitch 1 only. Wish I'd seen comments on here re #3.5 cam, a bit scary without.
with Pete Cresswell
Pleased to on sight this, climbed pitch 1 only. Wish I'd seen comments on here re #3.5 cam, a bit scary without.
with Pete Cresswell
Dave Turnbull, BMC 5 Oct, 2013 Lead dnf Take a big cam next time
with Frank Ramsey
Take a big cam next time
with Frank Ramsey
Pieterjan De Roo 20 Sep, 2013 Lead O/S
The old James turnbull 24 Jul, 2013 2nd lead before
with will sim
lead before
with will sim
Ramon Marin 29 Jun, 2013 AltLd dnf Wet, so had to bail half way up, gutted as it looked amazing. Will go back with conditions
with Tom le fanu
Wet, so had to bail half way up, gutted as it looked amazing. Will go back with conditions
with Tom le fanu
Alice Thompson 25 May, 2013 2nd O/S
dan gibson 25 May, 2013 AltLd O/S I led pitch one. Alice pitch two, impressive as only her fourth day trad climbing.
with alice thompson
I led pitch one. Alice pitch two, impressive as only her fourth day trad climbing.
with alice thompson
willoates 5 Apr, 2013 Lead β Flashed it on Luke's gear, don't know if I could have done it placing the gear. good route with a tricky crux. went into sport climbing mode at the top, throwing for things.
Flashed it on Luke's gear, don't know if I could have done it placing the gear. good route with a tricky crux. went into sport climbing mode at the top, throwing for things.
The old James turnbull ?Aug, 2012 Lead O/S
with aiden
with aiden
Jacob Bloodworth ?Aug, 2012 Lead O/S
Howard Lawledge 7 Jul, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 10 Jun, 2012 Lead
Alex Mason 28 Apr, 2012 Lead O/S Superb. Brilliant steep sequences with a committing crux in the middle. Crucial 3.5 cam. Tried last year without but reversed to the ground. Reversed twice today before attacking it.
with Bubbles
Superb. Brilliant steep sequences with a committing crux in the middle. Crucial 3.5 cam. Tried last year without but reversed to the ground. Reversed twice today before attacking it.
with Bubbles
i_a_coops 19 Nov, 2011 AltLd RP RP'd pitch 1, very glad I didn't lead p2. See Jacob's comment for full breakdown of our unstylish ascent. Sport climbing on Gogarth - I am a bad person! Also, crux felt full value 6b, one of the holds changed shape drastically every time we touched it so maybe that has something to do with it.
RP'd pitch 1, very glad I didn't lead p2. See Jacob's comment for full breakdown of our unstylish ascent. Sport climbing on Gogarth - I am a bad person! Also, crux felt full value 6b, one of the holds changed shape drastically every time we touched it so maybe that has something to do with it.
Hidden 19 Nov, 2011 Lead dnf
jacobjacob 19 Nov, 2011 Lead RP Good route. Not the best style of ascent... I had a go, fell off at the crux (uk 6b imo) then lowered off. Then Ian had a go and got to the top resting on the gear. Then I got it next go with all the gear in place. Then led the top pitch which is VERY LOOSE!
Good route. Not the best style of ascent... I had a go, fell off at the crux (uk 6b imo) then lowered off. Then Ian had a go and got to the top resting on the gear. Then I got it next go with all the gear in place. Then led the top pitch which is VERY LOOSE!
Adam Lincoln 30 May, 2011 Lead β
with Joe Bertalot
with Joe Bertalot
ksjs 9 May, 2011 Lead dnf More like confidence crisis: up and down about 5 times at the off-width bit. Felt a bit out of my depth on this but in reality I think I just didn't fancy falling onto a cam and probably thought this would be 'easy' having seen 2 people waltz up it earlier in the day - bad approach. Reversed to ground.
with Paul S
More like confidence crisis: up and down about 5 times at the off-width bit. Felt a bit out of my depth on this but in reality I think I just didn't fancy falling onto a cam and probably thought this would be 'easy' having seen 2 people waltz up it earlier in the day - bad approach. Reversed to ground.
with Paul S
Hidden ?May, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??, 2011 Lead O/S Easiest of the 3 Upper Tier E5s
with Benno Wagner
Easiest of the 3 Upper Tier E5s
with Benno Wagner
Dan Arkle 14 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S
Si Witcher 20 Sep, 2009 Lead rpt
Hidden 20 Sep, 2008 Lead
Tom Briggs 15 Jul, 2007 Lead RP
with Ed Brown
with Ed Brown
Hidden ??, 2006 -
Hidden 15 Aug, 2004 Lead
Hidden ??, 2004 -
Dave Musgrove Jnr 6 May, 2001 AltLd O/S Excellent 1st pitch (I led). 2nd pitch loose and horrible - Simon's ha ha
Excellent 1st pitch (I led). 2nd pitch loose and horrible - Simon's ha ha
Si Witcher 6 May, 2001 AltLd
Hidden ??, 1990 Lead
keefe ??, 1989 -
Hidden 22 Aug, 1985 Lead
Mike Owen 9 Apr, 1985 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
with Elaine Owen
Hidden 1 May, 1978 AltLd
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Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 20
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 19
Votes cast 16
Style of ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Dogged
Not Set