Rockfax Description
Excellent protection ensures the popularity of this fine crack. It has been attempted more than once in mistake for its neighbour, Winking Crack.
1) 10m. Scramble up right from the path to a nut belay in a corner.
2) 6b, 38m. Climb the left arete to a small ledge beneath the crack. Follow the crack - 2 pegs - to a shake out just short of the chimney above. Climb the chimney.
3) 4c, 26m. Slabs and vegetated ledges lead to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List, Trad climbs for sport climbers, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Caff's 100 Best E5's, Ultimate E5 ticklist

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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
ferdia 12 May Lead What a route. Completely rinsed of power before top pod so can't even claim to have fallen off 'going for it'! I just kind of melted off. Even my legs were tired :D
with Aggie Turlo
What a route. Completely rinsed of power before top pod so can't even claim to have fallen off 'going for it'! I just kind of melted off. Even my legs were tired :D
with Aggie Turlo
soph 26 Aug, 2018 Lead dog Amazing pumpy pitch. Bit optimistic with injured neck and broken head but had fun then gave up just before finishing crack. Then found jamming section at top pretty straightforward. Will be happy to climb such a good pitch again!
Amazing pumpy pitch. Bit optimistic with injured neck and broken head but had fun then gave up just before finishing crack. Then found jamming section at top pretty straightforward. Will be happy to climb such a good pitch again!
Hidden ??, 2018 -
Greg Cunningham 24 Jun, 2017 2nd rpt
Rich Kirby 24 Jun, 2017 Lead 1 fall
with Greg Cunningham
1 fall
with Greg Cunningham
Hidden ??, 2017 -
Adam Lincoln 28 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
with Charlie Woodburn
with Charlie Woodburn
pete johnson 26 Jul, 2016 2nd
Elliot Walker 26 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S Desperate. Don't think I could possibly climb any harder. Poor feet where you want to be resting!
with Pete
Desperate. Don't think I could possibly climb any harder. Poor feet where you want to be resting!
with Pete
Greg Cunningham 23 Jul, 2016 Lead dog Fell at move getting into chimney (crux). Seconded about 15 years ago. Wish I'd read Bensilvestre comment as we couldn't pull the ab ropes and had to rap down the 4c top pitch to get the ropes back. Duh!
Fell at move getting into chimney (crux). Seconded about 15 years ago. Wish I'd read Bensilvestre comment as we couldn't pull the ab ropes and had to rap down the 4c top pitch to get the ropes back. Duh!
PaulTanton 23 Jul, 2016 2nd rpt Its a hard fight
with Greg Cunningham
Its a hard fight
with Greg Cunningham
Hidden ??, 2016 -
Twid Turner ??, 2016 -
Luke Brooks 28 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
bensilvestre 13 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S If you plan on doing this route I would highly recommend getting your second to bring a knife and a length of rope to sort the tat at the top. Lots of old useless rubbish that could do with cutting away, and the new stuff could do with extending over the lip to make pulling the ropes easier after abbing off. You'd be doing yourself and subsequent climbers a big favour. I unfortunately had nothing to hand. The thread is set about 1.5 ft back from the lip so bare that in mind. Oh, brilliant route too, pumpy but super safe with just enough rests, and and it isn't over until you're stood in balance on the top!
If you plan on doing this route I would highly recommend getting your second to bring a knife and a length of rope to sort the tat at the top. Lots of old useless rubbish that could do with cutting away, and the new stuff could do with extending over the lip to make pulling the ropes easier after abbing off. You'd be doing yourself and subsequent climbers a big favour. I unfortunately had nothing to hand. The thread is set about 1.5 ft back from the lip so bare that in mind. Oh, brilliant route too, pumpy but super safe with just enough rests, and and it isn't over until you're stood in balance on the top!
NDD 21 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S Tired on this, so nearly dropped the top! Totally brilliant climbing.
with tony stone
Tired on this, so nearly dropped the top! Totally brilliant climbing.
with tony stone
Rachel Slater 31 Aug, 2014 2nd O/S Not a cruise!
Not a cruise!
tim newton 31 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S Found it all hard and I arrived at the poor rest below the top pretty pumped, but the fight really started then. I just couldn't get in any jams, became incredibly pumped and my legs were shaking so much, I was almost falling off every move. Managed to get a hand on top, then both, then my elbows, then I was in that position for a couple of minutes before I got the strength to grovel out.
Found it all hard and I arrived at the poor rest below the top pretty pumped, but the fight really started then. I just couldn't get in any jams, became incredibly pumped and my legs were shaking so much, I was almost falling off every move. Managed to get a hand on top, then both, then my elbows, then I was in that position for a couple of minutes before I got the strength to grovel out.
JulesV ?Jul, 2014 Lead dog
with SV
with SV
malx ?Sep, 2013 Lead O/S
Alice Thompson 16 Jun, 2013 2nd dog Fell off at top.. hand jam was required... Awesome climb!
Fell off at top.. hand jam was required... Awesome climb!
dan gibson 16 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S saved by the hand jams at the top, then an undignified bellyflop/roll finish!
with alice thompson
saved by the hand jams at the top, then an undignified bellyflop/roll finish!
with alice thompson
Howard Lawledge 13 May, 2013 Lead O/S
with luke
with luke
Alex Mason 23 Apr, 2013 Lead O/S Awesome. Had been intimidated by this for a long time, expected a total battle but climbed it in the eponymous style. Suits me well this style. Top pod is nowhere near as bad as it's made out.
with Callum Muskett
Awesome. Had been intimidated by this for a long time, expected a total battle but climbed it in the eponymous style. Suits me well this style. Top pod is nowhere near as bad as it's made out.
with Callum Muskett
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??, 2013 Lead O/S I remember giving my all to get the onsight, felt like 7b placing all the gear!
with Sam Underhill
I remember giving my all to get the onsight, felt like 7b placing all the gear!
with Sam Underhill
soph 26 Aug, 2012 2nd rpt
with Andy Reeve
with Andy Reeve
Hidden ?May, 2011 -
ksjs 5 Jul, 2010 2nd O/S holy moly! was it earlier efforts on Run Fast, general tiredness, that i was seconding or just that this IS tough? who knows but i havent fought so hard / had to dig so deep on anything for a long time. what an awesome pitch though: sustained physical and technical (not loads of options for the feet) climbing gains a decent rest beneath the truly awkward finishing section; best brush up those jamming skills. not sure i'll be rushing back to lead this (barely made it on second)! think it may knock me out for a week...
with jo
holy moly! was it earlier efforts on Run Fast, general tiredness, that i was seconding or just that this IS tough? who knows but i havent fought so hard / had to dig so deep on anything for a long time. what an awesome pitch though: sustained physical and technical (not loads of options for the feet) climbing gains a decent rest beneath the truly awkward finishing section; best brush up those jamming skills. not sure i'll be rushing back to lead this (barely made it on second)! think it may knock me out for a week...
with jo
JM 1 May, 2010 Lead O/S
with Steve Sylvester
with Steve Sylvester
Steve Long ??, 2010 -
Toby Dunn 10 Apr, 2009 Lead O/S
with Tom Randall
with Tom Randall
Brown 12 May, 2008 2nd O/S
with Various International meet
with Various International meet
Hidden ??, 2004 -
Dave Musgrove Jnr ?May, 2002 Lead O/S
sadams 1 May, 2000 Lead O/S
with Tom Briggs
with Tom Briggs
Si Witcher ?May, 2000 Lead O/S
jfletcher 5 Jul, 1997 Lead O/S
Mike Owen 29 Apr, 1989 Lead O/S Excellent climbing.
with Elaine Owen
Excellent climbing.
with Elaine Owen
keefe ??, 1989 -
Neil McA 17 Sep, 1988 Lead dog Fell off near the top, got straight back on and finished OK, but too strenuous for the on sight - probably because i was tired from leading Positron earlier in the day.
with Mad Martin Salisbury
Fell off near the top, got straight back on and finished OK, but too strenuous for the on sight - probably because i was tired from leading Positron earlier in the day.
with Mad Martin Salisbury
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