Rockfax Description
Excellent protection ensures the popularity of this fine crack. It has been attempted more than once in mistake for its neighbour, Winking Crack.
1) 10m. Scramble up right from the path to a nut belay in a corner.
2) 6b, 38m. Climb the left arete to a small ledge beneath the crack. Follow the crack - 2 pegs - to a shake out just short of the chimney above. Climb the chimney.
3) 4c, 26m. Slabs and vegetated ledges lead to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Trad climbs for sport climbers, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Caff's 100 Best E5's, Ultimate E5 ticklist.

Greg Cunningham 24/Jun/17 2nd rpt
Rich Kirby 24/Jun/17 Lead

1 fall

with Greg Cunningham
Hidden ??/2017 -
Adam Lincoln 28/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Charlie Woodburn
pete johnson 26/Jul/16 2nd
with Elliot
Elliot Walker 26/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Desperate. Don't think I could possibly climb any harder. Poor feet where you want to be resting!

with Pete
Greg Cunningham 23/Jul/16 Lead dog

Fell at move getting into chimney (crux). Seconded about 15 years ago. Wish I'd read Bensilvestre comment as we couldn't pull the ab ropes and had to rap down the 4c top pitch to get the ropes back. Duh!

PaulTanton 23/Jul/16 2nd rpt

Its a hard fight

with Greg Cunningham
Hidden ??/2016 -
Twid Turner ??/2016 -
Luke Brooks 28/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Will
bensilvestre 13/Jul/15 Lead O/S

If you plan on doing this route I would highly recommend getting your second to bring a knife and a length of rope to sort the tat at the top. Lots of old useless rubbish that could do with cutting away, and the new stuff could do with extending over the lip to make pulling the ropes easier after abbing off. You'd be doing yourself and subsequent climbers a big favour. I unfortunately had nothing to hand. The thread is set about 1.5 ft back from the lip so bare that in mind. Oh, brilliant route too, pumpy but super safe with just enough rests, and and it isn't over until you're stood in balance on the top!

NDD 21/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Tired on this, so nearly dropped the top! Totally brilliant climbing.

with tony stone
Rachel Slater 31/Aug/14 2nd O/S

Not a cruise!

tim newton 31/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Found it all hard and I arrived at the poor rest below the top pretty pumped, but the fight really started then. I just couldn't get in any jams, became incredibly pumped and my legs were shaking so much, I was almost falling off every move. Managed to get a hand on top, then both, then my elbows, then I was in that position for a couple of minutes before I got the strength to grovel out.

JulesV ?/Jul/14 Lead dog
with Shauna
malx ?/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Alice Thompson 16/Jun/13 2nd dog

Fell off at top.. hand jam was required... Awesome climb!

dan gibson 16/Jun/13 Lead O/S

saved by the hand jams at the top, then an undignified bellyflop/roll finish!

with alice thompson
Howard Lawledge 13/May/13 Lead O/S
with luke
Alex Mason 23/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Awesome. Had been intimidated by this for a long time, expected a total battle but climbed it in the eponymous style. Suits me well this style. Top pod is nowhere near as bad as it's made out.

with Callum Muskett
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2013 Lead O/S

I remember giving my all to get the onsight, felt like 7b placing all the gear!

with Sam Underhill
soph 26/Aug/12 2nd rpt
with Andy Reeve
Hidden ?/May/11 -
ksjs 05/Jul/10 2nd O/S

holy moly! was it earlier efforts on Run Fast, general tiredness, that i was seconding or just that this IS tough? who knows but i havent fought so hard / had to dig so deep on anything for a long time. what an awesome pitch though: sustained physical and technical (not loads of options for the feet) climbing gains a decent rest beneath the truly awkward finishing section; best brush up those jamming skills. not sure i'll be rushing back to lead this (barely made it on second)! think it may knock me out for a week...

with jo
JM 01/May/10 Lead O/S
with Steve Sylvester
Steve Long ??/2010 -
Toby Dunn 10/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Tom Randall
Brown 12/May/08 2nd O/S
with Various International meet
Hidden ??/2004 -
Dave Musgrove Jnr ?/May/02 Lead O/S
sadams 01/May/00 Lead O/S
with Tom Briggs
switch ?/May/00 Lead O/S
jfletcher 05/Jul/97 Lead O/S
Mike Owen 29/Apr/89 Lead O/S

Excellent climbing.

with Elaine Owen
keefe ??/1989 -
2 users have this on their wishlist
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 9
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 9
Votes cast 8
Style of ascent
Not Set
Not Set